Danl Posted January 8, 2020 Report Share Posted January 8, 2020 On 1/8/2020 at 1:53 AM, bradleyheathhays said: Thanks for all the great information guys. Guess I'll be spending some dough either way I go. Since I'm just starting to design these tables and my business success is far from assured, someone suggested I could just cut down the table edges with a router. And since I just got a good 1.75 hp Dewalt plunge router I'm thinking maybe this would be the more economical route for me. Is say a 3" edge cut possible on a router, possibly with multiple depth cuts? Any ideas on using a router instead of some kind of guided circular saw? What you are suggestion is a good viable solution. 1) cut excess using straight edge and circular saw. You will need to clamp excess materiel so that it does not fall off as you are cutting so that the end does not tear off. 2) Lay straight edge approx. 1/32" from cut edge and use you router with a pattern flush trim bit. 3) If table is over 2", flip table over and use your router with a pilot trim bit. Some sanding may be require because you used two bits, but you will have a good edge. I profiled 1 1/4" on the table and 3 3/4" on the bar stool back using this method. Danl Cal, p_toad, FlGatorwood and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Howe Posted January 8, 2020 Report Share Posted January 8, 2020 I think I have less than $50 in my homemade track saw. Not including the Skil 77. Like, PeteM, i use a sheet of 2" thick paper backed rigid insulation board on my bench. Except, mine's yellow. I regularly cut up to 2" thick mesquite slabs and, with a good blade, I get glue ready edges. Cal, John Morris, FlGatorwood and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Morris Posted January 8, 2020 Report Share Posted January 8, 2020 I use a home made straight edge for my worm drive saw and my router. A strip of ply with hard board fastened to the bottom, the initial cut gives you a zero offset to the mark your cutting or routing. See my straight edge in topic below. FlGatorwood, p_toad, Cal and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post DRAGON1 Posted January 9, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 16 hours ago, bradleyheathhays said: Thanks for all the great information guys. Guess I'll be spending some dough either way I go. Since I'm just starting to design these tables and my business success is far from assured, someone suggested I could just cut down the table edges with a router. And since I just got a good 1.75 hp Dewalt plunge router I'm thinking maybe this would be the more economical route for me. Is say a 3" edge cut possible on a router, possibly with multiple depth cuts? Any ideas on using a router instead of some kind of guided circular saw? The only thing I don't like about using a router is they are very touchy and it doesn't take much between the router and guide to throw your cut line off. A circular saw cuts in one pass and doesn't throw much in front of it to get between the saw and the guide. The only thing I would add is find a 7 1/4" paranha blade for it ( they don't make them anymore). Cuts through 2 inch oak like butter. p_toad, Fred W. Hargis Jr, FlGatorwood and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Gunny Posted January 9, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 1 hour ago, DRAGON1 said: The only thing I don't like about using a router is they are very touchy and it doesn't take much between the router and guide to throw your cut line off. For me the router is the hardest tool to use. The pins in my wrist do not like this tool, at all. The lighter weight Ryobi saw works well with little issues with my wrist, and can be used lefty. So I work around the issue. p_toad, DRAGON1, FlGatorwood and 4 others 5 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred W. Hargis Jr Posted January 9, 2020 Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 17 hours ago, Danl said: What you are suggestion is a good viable solution. 1) cut excess using straight edge and circular saw. You will need to clamp excess materiel so that it does not fall off as you are cutting so that the end does not tear off. 2) Lay straight edge approx. 1/32" from cut edge and use you router with a pattern flush trim bit. 3) If table is over 2", flip table over and use your router with a pilot trim bit. Some sanding may be require because you used two bits, but you will have a good edge. I profiled 1 1/4" on the table and 3 3/4" on the bar stool back using this method. Danl That's a good approach of you have to use a router...one I hadn't considered. Cut 1/2 (or more) of the cut in passes, then flip and flush trim. FlGatorwood, Gunny and Cal 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAGON1 Posted January 10, 2020 Report Share Posted January 10, 2020 By the way, eBay has the paranha blades cheap. Just ordered 4 of them in 24 and 40 tooth for my Milwaukee 7 1/4 circ saw. FlGatorwood, p_toad and Gunny 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Al B Posted January 10, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 10, 2020 On 1/3/2020 at 1:35 PM, Smallpatch said: Well I do things a little different.. I do lots of welding and one day I was at a metal building supply and was watching the big metal presses or what ever they are called slicing strips of metal and ask if he would slice me off a few different lengths while he was there doing that.. So a short story, I have been using the three strips for a straight edge 4, 8 and 10 foot long for 40 years or more. I was just guessing at the time and had them cut 4" wide and figured that would handle any straight edge clamping I needed to do and have concluded that was a good choice back then. So I have never thought of a track saw for two reasons, no where to have one mounted and don't even need one anymore.. And I would have to go out to the shop to see if they are 1/8 or 3/16" thick. What ever they are was a great idea back then... Jesse, Welcome to the world of welding. I spent over 40 years as a welder before my retirement in 2003. Just for your information, the tool used to cut your steel strips is a shear. In todays world, a lot have gone to lazers for cutting. It provides a clean cut without any razor edges. I use a 3/16" thick X 4" wide X 8' long strip of aluminum that I've had for years to make long straight cuts. Just can't see the justification for the prices charged for manufactured tracks Cal, p_toad, Gunny and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Smallpatch Posted January 10, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 10, 2020 AL B my dad was a welded in a ship yard in Cal. in WW11 and then we had a Forney AC-DC at home and I was taught welding at home after school. Never done it for a profession but I keep a big portable unit still today...I built a few metal buildings out of oil field pipe and the biggest was a 40 x 60 I had just finished when we decided to retire and moved to the lake and my beautiful building I had to say by-by to and it killed me allllllllmost. I keep those three flat strips hanging in my shop and yes I did have to run some wet or dry sand paper along the edges but are as slick as if they were made for straight edges by a company for that purpose…. John Morris, Gunny, p_toad and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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