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Wichman3

Cutting blanks from rough wood

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So I bought a bandsaw (first one) setup and working well. This is so much more controllable for what I want to do :)    I'm using a 1/4 wide 14 tpi blade.

Here are a couple of pics of the manzanita root. The closeup has been wiped with oil to show the grain.

 

 

20191117_171437.jpg.1f1f105d5e6352d2788975398b8b52c5.jpg20191117_171452.jpg.0e994ebb365525b70afefd7678985e81.jpg

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Wichman3 I bolt a piece of Baltic Birch to my miter gage maybe 8 or 10 inches tall by maybe 15 or so inches wide.... Probably no holes for that but drill some and leave a small gap off the table. At least large enough so you can get your hands behind it.  Build a couple of hand grips behind the board to grasp it to do the pushing..`I then use a number of attachments either screwed to the board with ratchet straps, u bolts or anything thing sturdy to keep the log from moving while pushing the things through the blade....You don't even want anything to move while the blade is doing it things and if something does move I would back away an cover your eyes for if a band saw blade breaks it could get real dangerous.

  The worse thing for a person to do is push something through the blade using just your hands. One little wiggle sideways and something could come flying at you and by the time you think, its too late...

  I think the first thing you should learn to do is set the band saw up correctly.....so you can resaw a piece of hardwood  say 3/4" 4" x 12". If its not set right there will be a big bow from one end of the board to the other and or  it don't cut straight up and down... There are other things to adjust but if the blade is running in the very middle of the wheels then that is the first step .

 

I do think you blade has to many teeth. Three or four teeth per inch will give you better results and probably last longer. If you resaw your wood it will have to be run through the planner or sanded or dressed smooth one way or the other...

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2 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

Wichman3 I bolt a piece of Baltic Birch to my miter gage maybe 8 or 10 inches tall by maybe 15 or so inches wide.... Probably no holes for that but drill some and leave a small gap off the table. At least large enough so you can get your hands behind it.  Build a couple of hand grips behind the board to grasp it to do the pushing..`I then use a number of attachments either screwed to the board with ratchet straps, u bolts or anything thing sturdy to keep the log from moving while pushing the things through the blade....You don't even want anything to move while the blade is doing it things and if something does move I would back away an cover your eyes for if a band saw blade breaks it could get real dangerous.

  The worse thing for a person to do is push something through the blade using just your hands. One little wiggle sideways and something could come flying at you and by the time you think, its too late...

  I think the first thing you should learn to do is set the band saw up correctly.....so you can resaw a piece of hardwood  say 3/4" 4" x 12". If its not set right there will be a big bow from one end of the board to the other and or  it don't cut straight up and down... There are other things to adjust but if the blade is running in the very middle of the wheels then that is the first step .

 

I do think you blade has to many teeth. Three or four teeth per inch will give you better results and probably last longer. If you resaw your wood it will have to be run through the planner or sanded or dressed smooth one way or the other...

Smallpatch,   The band saw is the table top one from HF, The blade that came with it is 4 tpi, I tried a couple of cuts with it before changing to the 14 tpi. The 14 tpi is the better blade. I'm not planning on freehanding anything but the first cut (and that will be dressed on the 4 x 36 belt sander. Yes, I need an aux fence for the miter gauge, which is designed to allow for that.

I did spend a fair amount of time setting up the band saw, more than an hour (that's after putting it together and making sure it ran). Blade guides top and bottom, centering the blade and adjusting the tension. And had to adjust the table to get a perfect 90 degrees.

I'll go through the whole process again tomorrow before I cut more blanks.

I wear safety glasses as a matter of course, my good eye is 20/350 so in order to see anything I must wear glasses and I only have safety glasses.

I'm not planning on resawing any wood with this saw, it's just not built for it. I may use it to cut the bottom of the heart boxes, but I'll see how well it can do that

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Interesting bits of wood there Wich.  Regardless of whether you will resaw or not, getting the machine up and dialed in is the first step and going through the test cut that 'patch described will ensure that you have everything where it needs to be.

Let us know how that machine performs for you.  Does it take a standard size blade that you can readily find?

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1 hour ago, Cal said:

 Does it take a standard size blade that you can readily find?

It takes a 62" blade. It will use 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch blades.  Laguna makes blades in all four widths in either 4 tpi or 14 tpi. Not sure if I can bring myself to buy a $44 blade for a saw I paid $125 for new :) .

 

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30 minutes ago, Wichman3 said:

It takes a 62" blade. It will use 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch blades.  Laguna makes blades in all four widths in either 4 tpi or 14 tpi. Not sure if I can bring myself to buy a $44 blade for a saw I paid $125 for new :) .

 

That's pretty expensive for a blade!

 

Check here-  https://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/band-saw-blades/wood-band-blades/62in-long-2/

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On 11/18/2019 at 7:40 AM, lew said:

That's pretty expensive for a blade!

 

Check here-  https://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/band-saw-blades/wood-band-blades/62in-long-2/

I've seen the less expensive blades, I'll probably get a couple of different sizes. I was pleased and surprised that the top blade makers have my sizes. I did check Amazon before I bought the saw :)

Rechecked the setup and had to adjust the table for 90 , it was about 1/4 degree off, now its perfect. :)

Just did a test cuts with a fence, the miter gauge, and did a resaw test. All passed with flying colors, using the 1/4 14 tpi blade.

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