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Check a square?


steven newman

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20 minutes ago, Gerald said:

Ok I have all of the above squares mentioned but use them very little. My go to is a Starrett combination with either the traditional head or a protractor head in 4, 6 and 12 inch. Yes I know they can be trued but would have to look that up to do it. Now most of the work I do is 6 inch or less.

 

Now tell me am I wrong in my useage?

 

If it works it don't matter how you got there.

Oops, sorry Gerald. Don't know how that happened. That, apparently DIDN'T work.

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My orange one came from Menard's.....I checked it with a couple framing squares they had.  

 

IF I need a 19 or 20 degree cut...it has those markings, among a lot of others....mark the line, set the mitre box to the line...

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Which came in handy. All bevels here were 19 degrees....

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Decided to "test" out one of the combo squares.....a 12"  Defiance by Stanley No. 122

 

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same as before.  Have a jointed edge on a board,  make two lines....mark one, flip the square over, and mark a second line beside the first...

780580160_Checkasquarecombosquare.JPG.dc2f4e684965398da7e511f1288bae1e.JPG

IF the "gap" is the same all the way across....should be square....can also double check..

1142476752_Checkasquaredoublechecked.JPG.2f6f22afb962274662d1688fd09e1a6d.JPG

needed an extra hand....one end is up, the other laying on the board...but..no gap. 

 

Use these type of squares more for..striking a line along an edge....to mark where a groove would go.   Can be used to check a depth setting, too. 

Note:  on the ends of these type of squares, you will usually find a notch.....that is where a pencil would go, to mark a line....remember to either use the notch, or not....but not both, as the line without the notch will be different from the one made with the notch...

 

Edited by steven newman
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