Vertical Router Table Sled

[sreilly24590]

Anyone using a sled like this? I like the clear plexi but wonder about using these when doing vertical router table cuts say for lock miter joint or drawer joints? https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/vertex.html This came to mind when I received an Infinity Tools email boasting their vertical sled. Looked online and really don't see plans for building one at all. Infinity's sled is here https://www.infinitytools.com/vertical-router-sled-4576

 

I also figure that doing vertical cuts like this will require a sacrificial backer board to prevent tearout which in turn reduces the width of the board these jigs will allow. So just how well would these work? Interestingly I couldn't find any plans to make one of these and I can't see it being that difficult. Any ideas?

[lew]

The only thing I can wonder about, with the MLCS sled, is whether there would be enough lateral adjustment for the slot runner. I guess it would depend on the location of the miter slots on a particular saw/router table. Looks like the one from infinity would be pretty easy to copy/design for a specific setup.

 

For cutting vertical tenons, on the table saw,  I have an old cast iron Delta tenoning jig.

 

 

[Gene Howe]

The Infinity design looks easy enough to replicate. But, the price isn't too bad, either. If one does a lot of miter lock joints, it would be worth the investment...or the time to build one. 

There is no miter slot in my router table. So, the Infinity design is appealing. Guess I could take the miter bar off the tenon jig and accomplish the same thing. Though, I really don't like metal that close to my bits with no miter bar to provide positive positioning. 

 

[PostalTom]

18 minutes ago, lew said:

For cutting vertical tenons, on the table saw,  I have an old cast iron Delta tenoning jig.

 

This is the tenoning jig I use.  It is from Issue 6 of Shop Notes.  This was one of the first jigs I built.  Maybe a little "busy" for a tenoning jig, but it was a fun build, and I still use it.

 

 

 

[sreilly24590]

45 minutes ago, lew said:

The only thing I can wonder about, with the MLCS sled, is whether there would be enough lateral adjustment for the slot runner. I guess it would depend on the location of the miter slots on a particular saw/router table. Looks like the one from infinity would be pretty easy to copy/design for a specific setup.

 

For cutting vertical tenons, on the table saw,  I have an old cast iron Delta tenoning jig.

 

 

I don't see that as an issue for the table saw but the router could be an issue. The base and vertical actual dimensions are 10x14" and guessing from the image appears to have a 7-8" slot to mount the miter slot bar. If someone's table doesn't have a miter slot it can always easily be added.

[sreilly24590]

37 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

The Infinity design looks easy enough to replicate. But, the price isn't too bad, either. If one does a lot of miter lock joints, it would be worth the investment...or the time to build one. 

There is no miter slot in my router table. So, the Infinity design is appealing. Guess I could take the miter bar off the tenon jig and accomplish the same thing. Though, I really don't like metal that close to my bits with no miter bar to provide positive positioning. 

 

Gene, the best part of building one is usually it's less expensive, gives you a much better idea of how the jig works and can be customized for your needs. Can be smaller/larger to deal with your needs. I don't see either jig being able to be used for say 10" drawers using the drawer lock miter bit plus room for a sacrificial board. Not sure what the one from Infinity is made of but if it's particle or flake board I don't see longevity. If it's phenolic then a long, strong life can be expected plus it would maybe justify the price. Could be interested in replicating in a custom sizing. Of course a wood mockup wood be needed. See how I did that? How clever, and the spellchecker hasn't caught it yet.

[Gunny]

1 hour ago, lew said:

For cutting vertical tenons, on the table saw,  I have an old cast iron Delta tenoning jig.

I am in same group, mine is a Grizzly.  It hangs on the wall in the slot made for it and gathers dust mostly.  But when I need it at least I know where it is.

[Gene Howe]

The Infinty jig looks to be made of HDPE. And, a wide enough body for a 10" piece, using clamps. 

 I've found that tape eliminates exit blow out, negating the need of a backer board. 

[sreilly24590]

Tom, a big thanks for the reference to Shop Notes. I have their volumes 3-10 on hand but Googeling them gave me this site. I posted this just now to another forum but just in case:

 

Something I learned today from this thread (thanks again Tom) started was that there is free access to the 95 volumes of Shop Notes online. But wait, if you hurry now (no need to hurry) you can download the complete collection to save for later reference for the low, low, price of $0. But hurry, this is a limited time deal. Get yours today.....All kidding aside now.

 

In all honesty this is a free download for any or all if you desire and is perfectly legit. Goto https://archive.org/details/ShopNotesMag and there you can view online or download if you wish. It's far easier if you have an Internet Downloader program that will allow you to que the downloads. I was able to que the 95 issues and the download manager queued 5 at a time until it was finished, about 15-20 minutes. Best deal I've seen all day. Most magazines want $99 for access/USB drives and there's some great content there. Maybe not exactly what you want but should be enough guidance to build your own version, maybe improved.

Anyway just a FYI in case you didn't know.

[Larry Buskirk]

5 hours ago, lew said:

 I have an old cast iron Delta tenoning jig.

 

+1 

[PostalTom]

5 hours ago, sreilly24590 said:

Tom, a big thanks for the reference to Shop Notes

You're quite welcome.  I have the disc with all the volumes, and I refer to it frequently.  I liked it better when Shop Notes and Woodsmith were separate mags.  I think there was more content than now with them being combined into what they call Woodsmith Guild, but all things change.  

[Kevin O'Brien]

Thanks for saving me the cost of a vertical router table sled.  My old Delta tenoning jig does the job, as some here have suggested.  It works well with a few modifications. 

1.  Remove the work piece clamp and bracket by unscrewing the two socket head screws that hold the bracket to the face-plate.  (The Delta clamp is too low to clear the router table fence.) 

2.  Attach a sacrificial wood board to the face-plate to make a higher and wider clamping surface.  Four wood screws through the back of the face-plate holds it in place.  This keeps the cast iron of the jig away from the cutters, and provides a clamping surface high enough to clear the router fence.  Mine is about a 1/2" thick.  The back angle gauge extends a little beyond the board, so the gauge is still functional but not sticking out so far as to hit the router fence.

3. Use whatever clamps you have on hand to hold the work piece to the sacrificial face-plate.

[Gunny]

17 hours ago, Kevin O'Brien said:

Thanks for saving me the cost of a vertical router table sled.  My old Delta tenoning jig does the job, as some here have suggested.  It works well with a few modifications. 

1.  Remove the work piece clamp and bracket by unscrewing the two socket head screws that hold the bracket to the face-plate.  (The Delta clamp is too low to clear the router table fence.) 

2.  Attach a sacrificial wood board to the face-plate to make a higher and wider clamping surface.  Four wood screws through the back of the face-plate holds it in place.  This keeps the cast iron of the jig away from the cutters, and provides a clamping surface high enough to clear the router fence.  Mine is about a 1/2" thick.  The back angle gauge extends a little beyond the board, so the gauge is still functional but not sticking out so far as to hit the router fence.

3. Use whatever clamps you have on hand to hold the work piece to the sacrificial face-plate.

Sounds like it worked for you.  Can you post a picture of your jig modification?  

[FlGatorwood]

I am the odd man out on this.  To make a tenon on the table saw, set your blade height and angle (if one is needed), set your dadoes for the amount you wish to remove and make a pass.  Flip the board over and make the second pass.  Use a chisel and mallet to clean up.  Sorry, I am old school.