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hinge question


MaDeuce

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Ok... I've tried several different hinges (BTW, I will NEVER use a piano hinge again... I officially hate them now) for my concealed cabinets, but can't seem to find one that works for me. Trying to make a horizontally hinged cabinet (open overhead or down). None of them seem to work the way I need/want. Now I know that it is highly likely due to operator error. 

 

I've tried using the 110 degree hinges, but it doesn't even open to 90. I don't think I can use the sunk concealed hinge because the face is slightly less than 3/4", the 'base' is the 1.5" side of a 2x4. Here's a rough diagram of what I am working with...

 

The face sits flush (maybe SLIGHTLY offset from the edge). The measurements are the same whether it's a top or bottom hinged cabinet. For a bottom hinged cabinet, it needs to open to at least 90 degrees (it will have chains to keep it from dropping past 90). For top hinged, it needs to open past 90 degrees, preferably around 135 degrees. 

 

Thoughts?

 

hinge question.jpg

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The black gate style hinges work well, but not exactly concealed. Piano hinge was a major PITA and also not fully concealed. I have used some of the (can't remember what they're called....) non-mortised hinges, but because of the offset, it only opened about 80 degrees (so that one ended up being my husbands cabinet)

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4 minutes ago, MaDeuce said:

and the limit chain is for the downward opening. For the upward opening, it needs to be able to keep itself open.

How about something like this, the concept I mean, there are tons of hardware out there with less elaborate arms. And you can have a simple concealed hinge like shown in the image.

 

hige

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I must be denser than leadwood....I don't understand your issues. :ChinScratch:  I have used piano hinges successfully on cabinets and other standard hinges on doors and lids, both horizontal and vertical. I have mounted them either flush to surfaces or inside beds. I understand the limit chain for the down door but the up door will need some sort of holding mechanism either part of the hinge or separate from it. 

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4 minutes ago, John Morris said:

How about something like this, the concept I mean, there are tons of hardware out there with less elaborate arms. And you can have a simple concealed hinge like shown in the image.

 

hige

What are those called or where can I find them? The few I could find were too large or were thin metal (that warped when I installed it)

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16 minutes ago, MaDeuce said:

The black gate style hinges work well, but not exactly concealed. Piano hinge was a major PITA and also not fully concealed. I have used some of the (can't remember what they're called....) non-mortised hinges, but because of the offset, it only opened about 80 degrees (so that one ended up being my husbands cabinet)

 Use double sided sticky tape to position and hold the piano hinges when drilling the holes. Makes life a whole lot easier.

Edited by lew
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Just now, hatuffej said:

I must be denser than leadwood....I don't understand your issues. :ChinScratch:  I have used piano hinges successfully on cabinets and other standard hinges on doors and lids, both horizontal and vertical. I have mounted them either flush to surfaces or inside beds. I understand the limit chain for the down door but the up door will need some sort of holding mechanism either part of the hinge or separate from it. 

I think it was just the irritation of trying to get it flush AND the door square to the frame. It was more aggravation than was worth for this type of project lol

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