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Michael Thuman

Fairing stick requirements

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I need to build a fairing stick to put a gracefull arc on a board.

They say use tempered hard board but i cannot find it anywhere.

What else can I use or where can I find tempered hard board?

 

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Ash works well too Michael. Thin strip, a string like a bow and arrow and tie knots the string about an inch apart, cut a slit at the end of the stick, and insert the knotted string into the slot. The knots are for differing radiuses.

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41 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

What else can I use or where can I find tempered hard board?

I've found 1/4", tempered at Menards Michael. Sometimes the store at Lafayette has 1/2 sheets in stock. Unfortunately it's not finished on both sides.

Our local HD did carry 1/4" tempered but haven't checked for a while. They were pretty pricey I thought compared to Menards. I've tried to locate 1/8" tempered, finished on both sides but have been unsuccessful with that. Most pegboard is tempered hardboard and could work in a pinch.

 

John's suggestion using thin-strip, ash is great too.

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I used a thin strip of hard straight grain maple. It’s about 3/16 thick. Drilled a hole in each end. Tied a string on one end and looped the string thru the other end. Then used one of those push button jacket string adjusters to hold the string tight. 

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2 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Most pegboard is tempered hardboard and could work in a pinch.

I have had limited success with this, but I can say it works.  

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All Lowes and HD had .115 4 x 8 sheets but is only finished on one side will this work?

Ash I do not have and Maple I do have but it is plain sawn.

 

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50 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

but is only finished on one side will this work?

I would think it would work OK. The only issue you might encounter would be smoothly moving your marking device against the rough side should the need arise to mark from both sides.

Bummer about the sheet size offering. I wish I could find some tempered on both sides. I suppose maybe Woodcraft or Rockler might carry it, but IDK.

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Here is the one I made Michael, for layout of my rear seat curves. Ash. Your maple may work as well, give it a try, the worse that can happen is it snaps. It would be a shame to have purchase a full sheet of tempered board just to get a thin strip from it. Try any wood you have!

Also plastic works well, and a long ruler, I have a 24" steel ruler that I use sometimes.

IMG_20161001_154117.jpg

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If you need something quick & now, do you have an old bandsaw blade laying around or a scrap piece of 1/4" luan plywood?

Even a scrap piece of spruce, pine, or fir ripped will work assuming no knots where a fracture might occur...

I've even used a scrap piece of metal banding; the type used to band cartons, crates, etc. for shipment.

A 3/4" x 3 or 4 foot length of maple, cherry or even poplar from the big box edge ripped will be less expensive than a sheet of hardboard (aka Masonite).

Just some other options...

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Another option is a piece of formica

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10 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

All Lowes and HD had .115 4 x 8 sheets but is only finished on one side will this work?

Ash I do not have and Maple I do have but it is plain sawn.

 

Michael, I don't think the hardboard is the best material to use, there are many ways you can create this fairing stick with the suggestions made above. Also, you'll get much more mileage from the materials mentioned above than a strip of hardboard, IMHO.

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thin steel yard stick..

it's even incremented for you...

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All thanks much for all the replies.

The formica looks like the best of what I have avaialble.

A thin strip of cherry, ash, maple, or knot free pine would work also.

1/4" luan is too stiff. 

Maybe I will save the masonite for work tables.

Thanks I will let you know how it goes.

 

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The material doesn't matter:  uniformity of density matters, and flexibility matters.  Bending is a function of strength, so it has to be thin enough to bend (stress overcoming tensile strength), but to get a consistent curve, the tensile strength has to be uniform along the length (pegboard is less uniform than solid forms; knotty pine is, uh, non-uniform!).  Scrap pieces work well if thin enough and uniform, but a slight taper in thickness can give you oval-curve sections instead of circle sections, and sometimes that's decorative.

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I used the tempered board from Lowes and it works great.  I would not however use the toggle that wood used I would tie the string thru one hole one end then on the other put in saw curfs then flex the bow and tie off the string.  Took 4 tries but got it perfect by measuing from end of the string where I was to where i needed to go.

 

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