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I have a stanely 12-904 and questions.

What angle should the blade be sharpened to 30 or 25 degrees?

What is the main use for this plane?

I am having trouble getting this plane to work any help appreciated!

Is this a smoothing or jack plane?

 

 

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found this if it's any help...

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2005/10/25/no-12-904-smoothing-plane-review

 

since it's a smoother bench plane I'd sharpen it with a 25° bevel angle....

providing the frog angle is 45°

Edited by Stick486

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1 hour ago, Stick486 said:

since it's a smoother bench plane I'd sharpen it with a 25° bevel angle...

Agree...

Make sure your chip breaker lays flat across the back to the iron and is adjusted back from the edge 1/32"-1/16". 

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16 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Agree...

Make sure your chip breaker lays flat across the back to the iron and is adjusted back from the edge 1/32"-1/16". 

Do you mean put the chip breaker away from the taper of the 25 degree angle to the iron full thickness and back further by 1/32 - 1/1/6"?  Maybe a picture would help?

 

Edited by Michael Thuman
Asked for picture.

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17 hours ago, Stick486 said:

found this if it's any help...

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2005/10/25/no-12-904-smoothing-plane-review

 

since it's a smoother bench plane I'd sharpen it with a 25° bevel angle....

providing the frog angle is 45°

Once tuned up, this tool felt similar to the vintage Baileys I’ve used for years. After I replaced the stock blade with a 1/8-in.-thick Lie-Nielsen blade and chipbreaker, this plane produced a consistently thin shaving in dense hardwood.

 

Is the blade and chip breaker that comes with the plane defecient?

I will have to re sharpen to 25 deg tonight as I mistakenly did 30 deg.  

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1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

Do you mean put the chip breaker away from the taper of the 25 degree angle to the iron full thickness and back further by 1/32 - 1/1/6"?  Maybe a picture would help?

 

Red arrows (best I could draw them) indicate the distance from the edge of the iron to the edge of the chip-breaker. Blue arrow shows where the chip breaker should lay flat across the back of the iron.

Assuming so, but just to verify, you do have the bevel down as shown?

 

As for resharpening from 30o to 25o, I would just resharpen the leading edge and leave as a micro bevel. Eventually you will have it fully back to the 25o. Saves time if you're doing it by hand. If you have a Worksharp or some other powered grinder, I guess you could fully regrind the angle but I would go with the micro-bevel. My $.02

 

image.png.c718d4a2151f3108ffe2eb3da9b40cbd.png

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38 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Red arrows (best I could draw them) indicate the distance from the edge of the iron to the edge of the chip-breaker. Blue arrow shows where the chip breaker should lay flat across the back of the iron.

Assuming so, but just to verify, you do have the bevel down as shown?

 

As for resharpening from 30o to 25o, I would just resharpen the leading edge and leave as a micro bevel. Eventually you will have it fully back to the 25o. Saves time if you're doing it by hand. If you have a Worksharp or some other powered grinder, I guess you could fully regrind the angle but I would go with the micro-bevel. My $.02

 

image.png.c718d4a2151f3108ffe2eb3da9b40cbd.png

Thanks for the information.  Now I see the micro edge is a great idea! Thanks and I had the chip breaker up to high.  Thanks again.

Also I had the bevel up not down because how else would it find wood to lift up.  But I see (lightbulb) this is a smoothing plan to when it finds a ridge it will shear it off.

Thanks a million.

 

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4 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

Thanks a million.

Glad it was helpful. Let us know how it works once you get it tuned up.

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I got it tuned up or at least producing shavings but was wondering should the blade be coplaner with the bottom of the shoe or do you stick it a little further down?

 

I guess it goes to a turorial on the user of the plane does anyone have one or directions?

 

Edited by Michael Thuman
Added tutorial

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57 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

I got it tuned up or at least producing shavings but was wondering should the blade be coplaner with the bottom of the shoe or do you stick it a little further down?

 

I guess it goes to a turorial on the user of the plane does anyone have one or directions?

 

I guess it depends on grain type and wood species as well as end, edge, or face grain and what you are actually trying to accomplish.

 

Paul Sellers tutorial blog and his You-tube videos gives some of the best advice IMO.

 

Paul Sellars You-tube

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Grandpadave52 said:

I guess it depends on grain type and wood species as well as end, edge, or face grain and what you are actually trying to accomplish.

 

Paul Sellers tutorial blog and his You-tube videos gives some of the best advice IMO.

 

Paul Sellars You-tube

 

 

 

QS WO rough milled.

Face and edge  and grain no.  I save that for the small plane.

 

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May not be the best plane for rough sawn to finish thickness especially face without some camber in the iron. I assume you've tried going either cross grain or at angle for your first passes.

To answer your previous question, you'll want the blade (iron) edge protruding some. How much is some? What you are comfortable with, no tear-out, able to move plane without undue force (rub some paraffin wax on the sole to reduce friction), yet able to get a consistent curl. Watch some of Paul Sellers videos...

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Let's try something here...I got out a #4 sized plane about the same as the OP's, just is was made by Millers Falls....

Frog is a little different, but, where I set it is the same....there is a small "ramp" right at the back of the mouth opening..

1252470103_handplaneclassfroglocation.JPG.135878bbfc765f93736cb00a2d9dc2f8.JPG

You want the ramp and the face of the frog to line up...I usually use a finger tip to check...

1930611014_handplaneclasssetting.JPG.157c31389ef48f9a58d2195cbee9ad66.JPG

I set the chipbreaker/capiron back from the edge about 1 mm.   bevel is underneath this ....there should be no gaps between the cap iron and the flat back of the iron...

Carefully set this into the plane..

1797864933_handplaneclass3.JPG.25522f0510bb2e148d6ac0bcca8d7025.JPG

So that it just barely pokes through.   The Lateral Lever can be used to tilt the iron so the edge is straight across the opening...set the depth to where it barely cuts.  Some eyeball it, I just use a fingertip..

1553370226_handplaneclassanglestart.JPG.8b380107bf84a34a31bd953a687b5a5f.JPG

I usually push the plane along at an angle, it is going at a skew.    But, I push it straight down the board ...

1327074738_Handplaneclassanglefinish.JPG.fc655c8a7bb91887ae330c39dc198f45.JPG

So when I reach the other end, I am still at that angle.   i can go straight down the grain, but that sometime gives a bit of tearout.  By "slicing" along, less chance of the grain catching and tearing...

309298369_handplaneclassStanley3.JPG.02fca0044cf6d2987b51144a67968957.JPG

Stanley No. 3c....set up the same way as the larger plane.....and, for Mr. Morris..

1627794335_HandplaneclassNo_62.JPG.9c4d23e7a98d761a7b44aa9ce4e459e1.JPG

Finicky,  but it do work....

 

Any other questions?

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