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Pat Meeuwissen

replacement iron/blade

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Guys, I need to improve the quality of blade for my Stanley #7, I've tried everything to fix the cap iron re-beveled it sharpened to not allow any light thru but the chips still get in between. 

Thinking of getting a set of Hock pieces was looking for input or/and a good place to buy. Best price quick shipping and so on. Thanks Pat  

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Pat, although replacing the cap iron and blade with a higher quality is always a plus. I would first try replacing the cap iron. The #6 and #7 both use the same iron. They can be found on eBay for around $10. You could get new ones from Stanley at one time but they have been out of stock for a while, now.

 

If you just want to fix the problem a used replacement is in order. If you are looking to improve the plane a little, then by all means go for a Hock or another comparable set-up. Here are some links. Don't forget about the IBC Pinnacle blades, which are, also, highly rated. Most of the aftermarkets will be priced the same no matter who you buy them from. So, if you decide to upgrade I would just go directly to Hock or Woodcraft.

 

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/hock-tools-o1-2-38-blade-and-breaker-for-6-and-7-stanley-record-planes?via=573621f469702d06760016cd%2C57641c7e69702d3baa000a33%2C57641c8f69702d65930009c9

 

http://www.hocktools.com/products/bp.html

 

https://www.amazon.com/Hock-Chip-Breaker-2-3-8/dp/B003373VC6

 

https://www.ibctools.ca/product/ibc-matched-bladechip-breaker-sets-that-fit-older-stanleyrecord-bench-planes/

 

I don't think, that, I have a spare 2-3/8 chip breaker in the "overflow" box. However, I'll take a look and if I do, I'll just send it to you. If I don't PM you, in the next day or two then I don't have one.

 

In re-reading your post, you say, that, there is no light between the blade and the chip breaker. However, you are still getting chips stuck between them. Not to be condescending, but look to your blade. It may not be as sharp as it should be, or the angle may be off a little. This may help...

 

http://www.hocktools.com/tech-info/sharpen.html

 

I generally, find, that, if the chips are jamming up my blade needs attention.

 

 

 

Edited by schnewj

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Be aware that the new irons and chipbreakers tend to be thicker than the OEM ones they are to replace....sometimes they will not fit through the mouth opening....and the depth adjustment tab does not reach the slot on the chipbreaker...

 

Also, check out new hampshire plane parts...as Eric tends to have both OEM irons and the chipbreaker that matches...Make sure he knows which style of plane you are working on, not all sets were made the same...

 

OK...something to look into....IF the frog is too far forward ( the mythical tight mouth set up)  the thinner OEM irons lose the support of that little ramp right at the mouth opening..iron can flex a tiny bit ( chatter?) and allow chips to go under the chipbreaker....   I try to feel between the end of the frog, and the start of the mouth's ramp, to make sure both are coplannar

 

Let's see....a #4-1/2, a newer #5-1/2, and a #6 all take the same iron as the #7....older #5-1/2 planes took a 2-1/4" wide iron.

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On 1/29/2019 at 9:45 AM, schnewj said:

Pat, although replacing the cap iron and blade with a higher quality is always a plus. I would first try replacing the cap iron. The #6 and #7 both use the same iron. They can be found on eBay for around $10. You could get new ones from Stanley at one time but they have been out of stock for a while, now.

 

If you just want to fix the problem a used replacement is in order. If you are looking to improve the plane a little, then by all means go for a Hock or another comparable set-up. Here are some links. Don't forget about the IBC Pinnacle blades, which are, also, highly rated. Most of the aftermarkets will be priced the same no matter who you buy them from. So, if you decide to upgrade I would just go directly to Hock or Woodcraft.

 

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/hock-tools-o1-2-38-blade-and-breaker-for-6-and-7-stanley-record-planes?via=573621f469702d06760016cd%2C57641c7e69702d3baa000a33%2C57641c8f69702d65930009c9

 

http://www.hocktools.com/products/bp.html

 

https://www.amazon.com/Hock-Chip-Breaker-2-3-8/dp/B003373VC6

 

https://www.ibctools.ca/product/ibc-matched-bladechip-breaker-sets-that-fit-older-stanleyrecord-bench-planes/

 

I don't think, that, I have a spare 2-3/8 chip breaker in the "overflow" box. However, I'll take a look and if I do, I'll just send it to you. If I don't PM you, in the next day or two then I don't have one.

 

In re-reading your post, you say, that, there is no light between the blade and the chip breaker. However, you are still getting chips stuck between them. Not to be condescending, but look to your blade. It may not be as sharp as it should be, or the angle may be off a little. This may help...

 

http://www.hocktools.com/tech-info/sharpen.html

 

I generally, find, that, if the chips are jamming up my blade needs attention.

 

Thank you so much for the detailed response, I sharpen my blades to 8000 grit on a regular basis, so don't believe this to be the issue but will take a closer look with my magnifier today. Since I didn't get a pm I assume no replacement chip breaker was found?? I might then look at buying the Hock chip breaker as "I'm" still thinking it's just that there is too much flex in my reconditioned cap blade combo. Pat

 

 

 

 

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Well spent about an hour this morning, honing the blade (which wasn't horrible but now perfect). I disassembled the entire thing cleaned out all the tiny little bits, found the frog actually too far back, not co-planner at all with the mouth (fixed). Also added about a half a turn on the cap iron screw to tighten it down some more. The sound and feel are much better. Planed some poplar and some white oak, nice flat even shavings with no clogging so far. Thanks for the combined efforts to get me on the right solution. Pat

And spent no money. WIN!!!

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1 hour ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

 

Sorry, Pat, no spare available. However, I would still look to the plane iron, and failing that, replace the cap iron with an eBay donor.

 

If you really want to make the plane shine then go with an aftermarket. As was pointed out you may have to open up the throat a little. That is no big deal...a few judicious swipes with a file will open up the throat.

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2 minutes ago, schnewj said:

Sorry, Pat, no spare available. However, I would still look to the plane iron, and failing that, replace the cap iron with an eBay donor.

 

If you really want to make the plane shine then go with an aftermarket. As was pointed out you may have to open up the throat a little. That is no big deal...a few judicious swipes with a file will open up the throat.

I just refreshed and saw your reply...problem solved...great.

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14 hours ago, Kevin Beitz said:

Even with no light you might have the angle wrong. The front 

of the breaker needs to touch first.

I'm not sure I'm following you on this post. Wrong angle of what please? I did get this to work way better but still not 100% happy. I really feel that the cap iron is the major issue that it flexes too much because its so thin from being reconditioned.

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