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3 hours ago, HandyDan said:

  Might go quicker for you if ran the chisel a couple degrees off on the belt sander first.  Then just sharpen the very end, some will hollow grind first.  The idea is to have less area for cutting with the diamond stones.

 Dan, this chisel was quite a bit off angle and most of the work was to get it back to 30 degrees. The idea of using the belt sander did pop into my head just a little too late into the process.  The sled does have the ability to lift a degree or two to just do the edge of the chisel, like you said, which is what happened on the other tools.

 Although the homemade jig kept them sharp when needed I think my angles were drifting every time I sharpened.

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8 hours ago, DuckSoup said:

Found the FASTTRACK on Woodcrafts web site that linked me

Interesting concept yet simplistic design. I had not seen this before.

I watched some of their videos but didn't see any recommendation to use water or oil or any lubricant. I typically use ~70/30 mix of water & Simple Green on my diamond plates similar to these.

Did you use any lubricant or just dry?

I assume the retaining magnet(s) are likely rare earth? Any issue with them attracting/retaining the swarf?

Thanks for the review Bob. I've bookmarked their Home Page...I may mention this to Santa and to make sure "he" signs up first to receive the discount.:rolleyes:

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19 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

I watched some of their videos but didn't see any recommendation to use water or oil or any lubricant. I typically use ~70/30 mix of water & Simple Green on my diamond plates similar to these.

Did you use any lubricant or just dry?

 Dave, I did email them about lubricant between the sled & base and their reply was to apply a friction oil in the dovetail area. There is a plastic strip in that area so it is not metal on metal.

 I did put a drop of water but I think I'll take your advice on the 70/30 mix, I like that idea. 

 

ft4.jpg.f9cba6881333dcf52dfd251828d4693a.jpg  

 the small button is the magnet, holds quite well.

ft7.jpg.07ead3566d143425bc885d1804095e81.jpg

The diamond plates have a plastic backing, numbered on the front & color coated for grit, so it pretty much covers the entire magnet. No swarf that I noticed.

 

note:

 In fairness to the company after I posted this review yesterday I did email them a link, today I received a reply:

 

Dear Mr Prochak,

 

Thank you very much for your review.

It really means a lot to us.

 

Your last comment about the handle was very interesting as we have some improvements/upgrades coming out really soon.

End caps for the handle and a center-it-clip for the blade receiving slot (carriage).

Please see images attached.

As soon as these are in production, we’ll send you them.

 

Thanks again,
Cynthia

 

Cynthia Lavigne

Sales Director

 

website: www.m-powertools.com

ft8.thumb.JPG.fec621ca3200603cd1b745d047cf03df.JPG    ft9.thumb.JPG.1d86a5958957e851101c80f572617b65.JPG

 

12 hours ago, Stick486 said:

would an RO work better at softening the edge???

 Stick, I was thinking down that same line but now I think I'll wait, looks like they have a solution.

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Thanks Bob. Appreciate answering the questions and kudos for being transparent with the company about your review.

As for the Simple Green + Water, I used that with my wet or dry sandpaper too when sharpening plane irons & chisels.

 

I've also used about a 50/50 mix of LA's Totally Awesome as the sharpening lubricant...usually can buy it at Dollar Tree, but also have found it at Big Lots and Dollar General. It works great to clean pitch on router bits and saw blades. I use it full strength for that purpose. Wood Magazine (I think) did a comparison test versus some of the high end cleaners and rated it well. They did not recommend using Simple Green to clean carbide tipped tools.

 

image.png.7dca6ab319e05d778e1a823b1f1e019f.png

 

3 hours ago, DuckSoup said:

Your last comment about the handle was very interesting as we have some improvements/upgrades coming out really soon.

End caps for the handle and a center-it-clip for the blade receiving slot (carriage).

Please see images attached.

As soon as these are in production, we’ll send you them.

If there was even the slightest bit of concern or apprehension about this product or company by anyone, their (FastTrack) response and commitment to satisfaction should eliminate that.

 

Based on your review of the product along with the company's focus on the customer, I'm gonna order one too. It might not be until after the 1st of the year.

Thanks again Bob for the heads up.

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I have had one of those, and still have one for,13 years, only it is anodized blue one. I really liked it, was the first time I could get a good edge on chisels, I have a drawer full of stones and guides ,I used for years, but never could get a satisfactory edge on them.

I now use the Work Sharp, but still like the slider.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-M-Power-Sharpening-System-Chisel-Plane-Honing-Guide-Jig-/323577658150

Thanks for posting the review.

Herb

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  • 1 month later...

Kudos!, thanks Bob..  Great feedback on the prototype Centering Clip. Your suggestion on changing the hands grip to the chisel and how it's presented to the FTS definitely reduces the pressure needed to keep it in place. An improvement that'll find it's way into the instruction manual for sure!

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20 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

So the clip works as a spacer for the original fixed stop moving the chisel closer to center?

 Correct. You really just need it for narrow chisels. I believe the idea here is to keep the sled over the center of the base.

 

20 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Would it work with the chisel "sandwiched" between the fixed stop and clip?

You could, but it seems like the backstroke does want to pull it away from the fixed stop. I noticed less effort when the chisel was centered. 

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