Popular Post steven newman 15,050 Posted May 2, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 More of a step by step post, here. Took a little over an hour, to get from "Rust Bucket" to almost like new.... Had an Atkins handsaw, from the auction..wasn't the cleanest one of the bunch.. The big medallion said it was made by Atkins, over in Indy, IN.... Nickel plating was flaking off a bit, or was worn off...tool to remove these.. These then went to the wire wheel on my grinder, for a quick polishing. The next step was to remove the handle.. Fresh sand paper on the palm sander, to down down the rough, worn finish...set this aside.. 80 grit to hold the scratch pad...meh, came back with some 120 grit. Got this side fairly cleaned up..flipped the plate over, and tried something new Didn't work out, too well...scratch pad, then through the 120 grit, and 220 sandpaper.. Started seeing the faint remains of the etch...Atkins Perfection No. 59 tried to bring it out better. . Sometimes this works, sometimes not. Depends on how deep the etch still is. Coat the surface, let it dry, sand away the high spots, and maybe the etch will show up.. Handle was wiped down, and a coat of shellac brushed on...next, was trying to line up four holes to insert the bolts.. Have a long nail set. I work from the center holes out, I also "clocked" the slots to the same spot. Set this saw up on it's edge.. Looks a little better? Bolts were nickle plated Brass...did a test run.. And the results..(allowing for Operator Error, of course) 8 ppi, 26" long, straight backed, crosscut saw. Might be a keeper? For just over an hours work, did not need sharpened. HARO50, Fred W. Hargis Jr, Harry Brink and 2 others 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grandpadave52 20,648 Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 Nicely done and another great rescue from the landfill or someone tole painting a flower scene on the blade. If I recall, you may need to consider making another saw tote... HARO50 and steven newman 1 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steven newman 15,050 Posted May 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 May bring along a handful of saws to both gatherings this year.....Arlin's and Fred's.....and see IF anyone wants a couple of my "extras" Grandpadave52 and HARO50 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morris 22,179 Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 Steve, great job! Question, wouldn't using sandpaper reduce the efforts to preserve what little etch may be left? I have found a soak in a rust busting solution first usually gets the main portion of the rust off, then a fine sandpaper such as 400 or 600 grit, and clean up with WD-40. To start off with 80 grit just seems a bit too aggressive for the first attempt to restore the saw, while an off the shelf rust bust solution usually gets the main portion of the rust off and would be more friendly to any slight markings or etches that remain. Grandpadave52 and HARO50 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steven newman 15,050 Posted May 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 I used the 80 on the non-etched side. I also used the 80 to hold the scratch pad under the sander. Because those old Atkins saw were so hard, etches didn't "sink" very far when applied. I tend to be Chemical-free in the shop....I thought I would try a scrapper to clean most of the rust off the "show side". Etch still shows, BTW.....just very faint. Grandpadave52 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morris 22,179 Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 Excellent! steven newman 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grandpadave52 20,648 Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 9 hours ago, steven newman said: I tend to be Chemical-free in the shop. Except of course for the Mountain Dew, right? Have you ever tried soaking in Pure White Vinegar? I've done it on smalls with pretty good success. I've been using Evap-O-Rust on plane parts/bodies since last fall....works great on cast or grey iron...jury is still out on cast steel or steel. It does remove all the rust, but on steel, leaves a weird sheen pattern in the surface. Left unwashed to dry on the parts it supposed to protect surfaces for up to 6 months. Kinda' pricey, but supposed to be safe enough to bath in according to the salesman...I'll take his word...You can dispose of it by pouring down the sink. It reminds me of a higher powered CLR. steven newman and HARO50 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
schnewj 4,889 Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 6 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said: Except of course for the Mountain Dew, right? Have you ever tried soaking in Pure White Vinegar? I've done it on smalls with pretty good success. I've been using Evap-O-Rust on plane parts/bodies since last fall....works great on cast or grey iron...jury is still out on cast steel or steel. It does remove all the rust, but on steel, leaves a weird sheen pattern in the surface. Left unwashed to dry on the parts it supposed to protect surfaces for up to 6 months. Kinda' pricey, but supposed to be safe enough to bath in according to the salesman...I'll take his word...You can dispose of it by pouring down the sink. It reminds me of a higher powered CLR. What! You're not pouring it back into the container. Let the gunk precipitate out and pour the "clean" stuff back into the jug for next use. steven newman and HARO50 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grandpadave52 20,648 Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 2 minutes ago, schnewj said: What! You're not pouring it back into the container. Let the gunk precipitate out and pour the "clean" stuff back into the jug for next use. Oh no, I save it to the last drop...I have a container with new unused, a container with used but gunk mostly removed, and a container with gunk laying in the bottom... Shoot I'm so cheap, 'er cost conscious I use the same process for a 79 cent gallon of white vinegar... The label states "Safe to Dispose Down Your Drain" Gerald, steven newman and HARO50 2 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
schnewj 4,889 Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 10 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said: Oh no, I save it to the last drop...I have a container with new unused, a container with used but gunk mostly removed, and a container with gunk laying in the bottom... Shoot I'm so cheap, 'er cost conscious I use the same process for a 79 cent gallon of white vinegar... The label states "Safe to Dispose Down Your Drain" HARO50, Grandpadave52 and steven newman 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steven newman 15,050 Posted May 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 Have tried just about everything....keep going back to this way. After a couple hundred saw rehabs...I tend to use what works for me. Old and set in my ways... Trying to figure out HOW to rehab another of those saws from the bundle.. Not even sure IF I can get the blade off of that steel handle. Screwdriver, and that Stanley No. 1221A drill have been rehabbed, now. HARO50, Grandpadave52 and Harry Brink 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grandpadave52 20,648 Posted May 3, 2018 Report Share Posted May 3, 2018 2 hours ago, steven newman said: Have tried just about everything....keep going back to this way. After a couple hundred saw rehabs...I tend to use what works for me. Old and set in my ways... Gotcha' and resemble that process...I find myself going to the 6" brass brush on the grinder even when I say 'I'm not going to do it that way this time.' No one size fits all for refurbing tools IMO. Most I bring back to life are intended to be users; I have very few that have any great value on the antique tool market... Most purists would cringe, roll their eyes while gasping deep breaths if they saw my techniques. steven newman and HARO50 1 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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