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PIP River Table


Gene Howe

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I know you have done this before so I will mention to the gallery of folks watching from the bleachers, epoxy should be poured  no thicker than an 1/8" at a pouring, let set up then do it again till the desired thickness is reached. So If you are filling the entire river with epoxy you should be through around June or July... and they should not forget to keep the area to be poured perfectly clean from dust before each and every pour or it will show up big time later on ...

   I forgot to mention your task at hand is going good. Can't wait to see the river flowing when finished...

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1 hour ago, Smallpatch said:

I know you have done this before so I will mention to the gallery of folks watching from the bleachers, epoxy should be poured  no thicker than an 1/8" at a pouring, let set up then do it again till the desired thickness is reached. So If you are filling the entire river with epoxy you should be through around June or July... and they should not forget to keep the area to be poured perfectly clean from dust before each and every pour or it will show up big time later on ...

   I forgot to mention your task at hand is going good. Can't wait to see the river flowing when finished...

I didn't know that, I thought it was like pouring concrete, just back up the truck and let er go.

I am following this with interest because awhile back I wanted to do similar on a small project and ordered the crystals of glow in the dark stuff. I received it and there was no instructions as how to use it ,i.e. what proportions to mix with the epoxy, so I put it somewhere I can't remember where and someday will run across it and want to use it up. I just hope it isn't before I forget what it is used for.

Does it have to be a special epoxy, arn't they all the same, can I just go over to Lowes or Ace HW and pick up a can?

 

Herb

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Most all the stores have almost the same just different labels.. Some have bar top epoxy which ends up harder and withstands scratches somewhat better.. All 2 part epoxies, 50-50  are mostly the same. There are 2 to 1 ratios and it would be best to stick with the same formula and learn whats best to do.

  You need to find some instructions for air bubbles will be the biggest problems and a hair dryer will help there but it needs to run on as low of air as you can to keep from stirring up dust which is also the next problem... Like use a small room, using a fine water mist spray all the walls, pour the epoxy, take out the bubbles and get out and shut the door. I use to use a eye dropper  and put some of the stuff in the bottle on top of the pour and it would remove the bubbles.. This was 30 or more years ago...Don't know if they still have the same remedy if they have changed except maybe now use a blo drier to some satisfaction..The air bubbles can be partly eliminated by spraying lacquer on all the wood to be covered with the epoxy. The wood cracks can harbor lots of air bubbles.

  Epoxy needs to be at least 70 degrees to work the best.... I am waiting right now for some good warmer days.

I think all epoxys I have been around stresses the 1/8" thick formula. I think it would end up not drying like pouring a large dam with concrete that will never cure like it should if its all poured at once..

I'm sure somewhere on the computer will have instructions. I'm too impatient to sit and listen to someone beat around the bush so I never have watched any after the first time and this guy spent the first half hour showing how cute he was and never got to talking about what  he made the video of.

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None of the BORGS around here carry two part clear epoxy. Otherwise, I'd have it now. 

The "river" in this table will be blue glass. The epoxy is used for filling cracks and other voids that mesquite is famous for. I mix turquoise dust with the epoxy. 

I've poured large expanses before. A heat gun is definitely necessary to bring the bubbles out. 

Epoxy is exothermic. If properly mixed, there's no worries about it curing. All you need to watch on a thick pour is that the first layer has released all or most of it's heat. Otherwise, it'll likely crack. I've poured it a 1/4" thick for a bar top with no problems. In fact, we've poured half rounds with embedments a couple inches at a time. 

Edited by Gene Howe
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4 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

None of the BORGS around here carry two part clear epoxy. Otherwise, I'd have it now. 

The "river" in this table will be blue glass. The epoxy is used for filling cracks and other voids that mesquite is famous for. I mix turquoise dust with the epoxy. 

I've poured large expanses before. A heat gun is definitely necessary to bring the bubbles out. 

Epoxy is exothermic. If properly mixed, there's no worries about it curing. All you need to watch on a thick pour is that the first layer has released all or most of it's heat. Otherwise, it'll likely crack. I've poured it a 1/4" thick for a bar top with no problems. In fact, we've poured half rounds with embedments a couple inches at a time. 

Do you have ant craft stores around?  They usually have the two part epoxy in store.

Thanks, Dan. None any where near. Closest place is Flagstaff, 120 miles away.

Edited by Gene Howe
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I just bought some at Lowes and I compared that price at HD the next time we went there. It might be your clinentell , this miss fired word stands for people who stand around in a store and trys to remember what it was they wanted to buy but forgot when they got to the can I help you peoples.

  Also the recommendations when stirring the epoxies together, when through stirring, pour in only the part that will pour.. In other words do not scrape whats still in the container and use it also for it probably did not get mixed up like the rest and this might be where some of the bad names comes from that don't set up like it should.

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2 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

None of the BORGS around here carry two part clear epoxy. Otherwise, I'd have it now. 

The "river" in this table will be blue glass. The epoxy is used for filling cracks and other voids that mesquite is famous for. I mix turquoise dust with the epoxy. 

I've poured large expanses before. A heat gun is definitely necessary to bring the bubbles out. 

Epoxy is exothermic. If properly mixed, there's no worries about it curing. All you need to watch on a thick pour is that the first layer has released all or most of it's heat. Otherwise, it'll likely crack. I've poured it a 1/4" thick for a bar top with no problems. In fact, we've poured half rounds with embedments a couple inches at a time. 

Gene is there a ratio of the colored powder that you mix into the epoxy and do you mix it in before the second part or after the second part is mixed together? I have seen different colors of epoxy, some yellowish and some clear, and some crystal clear. does it make a difference what color is used if you add color?

Also not certain about heating, do you heat the can, the epoxy as you pour it,after it is poured ?

 

Herb

Edited by Dadio
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  • 2 weeks later...

Bit and router changed. No problems now. Love that Freud beast. Got some done but, now it's time to take Phyl out for a Valentine's day lunch. Lots of stuff on the agenda for tomorrow thru Sunday. Get the rest routed and glass installed Monday. Then, its on to the legs.

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