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So I did not get much time in the machine shop today.  I have some other projects that are higher priority.  Anyway, I spent a an hour finishing up the bore on the part that takes the place of the original cast aluminum.  The bore is deep enough to keep the bolt and nut recessed so the saw blade does not come in contact with them.  So here are the pictures.  You will notice that I left a small shoulder to act as a stop at the table.  I am hoping to be able to TIG well the new part in place on the other side of the base. That would make the pivot very solid.   If I get a chance I will work on making the bronze bushing for the over size hole and reduce it to 3/8 inch to match the bolt.  I am also thinking of installing a bushing on the base for the bolt hole.  The hole is a bit oversize and is not really centered.  That will  need to be done in the mill.

 

Paul

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1 hour ago, Fastback said:

The center finder's increments are in .0005 (or 5 ten thousands) of an inch.  I was able to get it within 2 tenths (.0002)  The center finder was bouncing, but this should certainly be accurate enough for this job.  

I'm gonna' guess it was no where near that close when new Paul...I suspect if you dropped one of the leading zeros 002.-.005 was more like it.

Keep the story & pics coming...enjoying your machining skills and solution to this minor set-back as much as woodworking.

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No pictures today, but I did get the bronze bushing made up and installed.  I did a dry fit and everything seem to be good.  I still new to remove some material from the top of the new piece and then I can Lock tite it in place.  At that point I can buy some replacement 12 AWG cord and plug and I should be good (I hope). I'll try top take more pictures tomorrow.

 

Paul

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2 hours ago, Fastback said:

I can buy some replacement 12 AWG cord and plug

Did it have 12 AWG before...most have 14? I buy short (10ft) extension cords, cut the female end off to make my replacement cords...gives a molded male plug that way and I can make longer than the OEM. Just a suggestion.

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The saw draws 15 amps and #14 technically is only for a max of 15 amps.  There is no marking on the wire that was left on the saw, but it sure looks like 12 AWG.  I am looking to put a 10 ft cord and I don't want to be affected by voltage drop.  I don't think that the upgrade will cost all that much more it is only 2 conductor with no ground.  I was going to check the price of extensions and see what they are getting for a heavy duty cord so I think we are on the same wave length, thanks.   I do like the idea of a sealed plug.

 

Oh, I did a little more on the aluminum replacement part tonight. I was able to cut a cove on the mill the remove some of the excess material.  I also pressed it in place and used some Lock Tite to solidify the fit.  I still did not get any more pictures of the project.

 

Paul

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On 8/6/2017 at 9:38 PM, Fastback said:

Hey P_toad, I juat saw your post and your right  (LOL) they had a sign up looking for volunteers.  I'd be afraid because I would end out buying everything.  I did ask about the drill press and they said it worked.  I failed to ask about the saw and that is my bad, but I only paid $15 for it.  I'll chalk it up to a learning experience and leave it at that, but I'll know better next time.  

 

Did not get a chance to work on the piece today but will try for tomorrow.

 

Paul

I find that i buy less stuff now that i'm volunteering there every week (some folks are volunteering DURING the week to sort, put out new stuff, put out donations, etc.).   I still have my old job and haven't retired yet (but thinking about it).   The only advantage i have it getting in there before the crowd and i have a chance to look over the store as much as possible and see what's new and update my memory map.

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OK, I'm back.  I finished up on the bushing and dry fitted the table to the base and it really worked out well.  I have no play what so ever.  So I started to reassemble the saw. Unfortunately, I found that I had another issue that needed to be addressed and that was the vertical and bevel alignment pin.  It look to be a 1/2 inch in diameter and about 3 inches long  t)hat had  a bend in it . The bend was out at about .250 ( I for got to measure when I first started.  I had to decide if I wanted to turn a new one or try to straighten the old one.  I opted to try to straighten.  Well after 3 tries using my 12 ton hydraulic press and couple of Vee blocks I was able to get it within .010.  I think this will be OK, but if necessary I guess I can always turn a new one.  I meant to take pictures of the saw reassembled, but forgot so I'll see if I can get one the next time out.  Anyway, I did get a couple of pictures of the pin.  I never took one when it was finished but you get the idea.  BTW, the saw does work well.

 

Noticed that you can not read the dial indicator because of the lighting, but I believe the reading at the end (picture 3) was about .075.  An that was after the first press try.  The fist dial picture shows where the bend started.

 

Paul

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I agree, my thought is that it may have fallen of a truck.  Oh, it was 14 awg wire.  I ended up getting a 9 foot replacement type cord.  It was the cheapest way out.  I should have gone with a 15' extension, but I Iet the price rule the day.  All and all I have $30 into this saw and I must say I am liking it.  The model tag has been scraped, but I think it is a model DW 708 Type 1.  It was assembled in the USA.

 

So now I am on to the next project of making a Gray Hoverman TV antenna. I getting tired of the high cable bills.  I believe I can save $150 per month.  I cut some of the pieces yesterday with the Dewalt to try it out.

 

Thanks for the support,

Paul

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No matter how much time and effort you put into the refurbishment, it is well worth it on more then one level!

 

Fortunately, you have the tools, skills and knowledge to make/repair the parts you needed. When all is said and done, you have a usable tool that instead of being scrapped, now has a new life. Being made in the USA means that the quality is far greater then a brand new ones made off-shore. Thank you for bringing it back to life.

 

Great job, Paul. Thanks for showing the process and the steps involved to fix this fine tool and allowing it to be reborn.

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Well no I am not a machinist, but I did  sleep in a Holiday Inn  last night, not really.  I did work in my uncles tool room for a couple of years on Saturday mornings.  He asked me to come and work for him, but it was the money and retirement thing that keep me out.  Actually, I come for a family of tradesmen.  On my mother side her brothers were mostly tool makers (as well as their children) 2 of my uncles had their own businesses and 1 was very successful and is still in operation today the family took over.  My uncles are all gone now.  On my fathers side they were all carpenters, builders or cabinet makers.  They also have all passed.  My trade, well I was in the water and wastewater industry.  I retired in 03 at the age of 54 and have been playing ever since.  I guess love for working with my hands came from them and I am proud to be able to somewhat carry on from what I have learned in both the wood and metal trade.  I also attended a welding school for a few years and did work doing that for a year or so.

 

Paul

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