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Fred W. Hargis Jr

Amped up Oneida Super Dust Gorilla (long)

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As I'm getting a little more antsy about finally being able to work in my shop, I had my DC system in the back of mind. I've always wanted a Clearview DC to replace my Oneida. This weekend they have a 10% off anything sale, so i ordered one. Since that one is coming, I'm selling my Oneida.  To keep you from reading more than you want, my price is $1000 (explained later), local pickup. I might be able to help with getting to your house in part of the world....call it 75 miles from Wapakoneta, or to the Cincinnati are since I'm there every once in a while. Anyway, the story: I bought this in 2006, it left the factory as a 2 HP model (14 1/4"impeller, 7" inlet). Once installed in my shop, I found the 2 HP motor wasn't enough for my duct work system...the motor ran at full load with just one gate open. After tlaking to Oneida, I replaced the 2 HP Baldor with a 5 HP Leeson, the ones used on the CV dcs. That solved the overloading problem, in fact the Leeson FLA is 22 amps, and it's running at about 10-11 with all the gates open. Then there is the filter. The OEM filter wasn't really all that good and I replaced it in 2013. The replacement came from Penn State, and was plug and play on my Oneida. But the PSI filter had about 3.4 times the filter media, and a Merv 15 rating. It's made by Clark Filter in PA. and is much more robust in construction than the OEM. I also have 2 dust bin drums that go with it, and another filter that is NIB. Now, the current models of this have some kind of composite blower housing as well as the elbow going to the filter. Mine has all steel everything, and while I harp on some aspects of Oneida's cyclones...I've always said they are built like a tank; at least the older ones are. The new ones list at $1800, but then the bin and some other stuff is optional so I think it would run $2000 to buy a new one, that's how I got my $1000 price...1/2 of new. Mine also includes  a remote starter and wall bracket (optional now). I have all the original papers that go with it. In the pics, you see it siting on my hydraulic lift table just before I was mounting it in my last shop.I also have a stiff plastic keeper for the dust bins that allowed me to line them with 40 gallon trash bags. Anyway, I have lots of other pics, but be aware the unit is disassembled and sitting in my garage at the moment. I can set it up to prove that the motor runs, but I'm between shops so I won't be able to do much else. I can also tell you I measured the air flow this unit pulls 1075 CFM through a 6" duct (over 30' with 3 elbows) so it has very good airflow. I've also measured 500+ CFM through 4" duct.

Lift.JPG

liner1.JPG

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Fred, you will like that Clear view cyclone, it will suck the socks right off you without taking off your shoes. By the way it was designed for Clear View by one of our members, Bill Pentz,if I am not mistaken. My cousin Paul had one in his last shop which was on a 35a. breaker (whole shop) and that 5hp. motor would start and then  the table saw would trip the main breaker,so he had to start the TS first then the DC, I think that was the way it went, maybe the other way round. Anyway my point is to put in plenty of power  in your shop.

NWW Workers had a field trip to their shop when they were located in Kent,WA before they moved to their present location,in NC? anyway they are fine folks and will bend over backwards to help you with anything pertaining to their products. Be sure to look at the clear plastic 6" gates , I use those in my shop and they are really good and not expensive as compared to other brands., I also use their 6"& 4" flex duct ,thay have a really neat clamp made for the 6" flex duct.. Also plan on enclosing it in a sound proof enclosure or on the other side of the wall. That is what I did with my Oneida, and you can talk normal in the shop when it is running.

Herb

Edited by Dadio

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2 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

There wasn't much interest in this and I had forgot I posted this here (only place it was listed). Anyway, it has just been sold, to be picked up tomorrow morning.

Who ever bought it will not be disappointed. I have the Oneida and it fits my needs perfectly, I upgraded to a 3hp. motor on a Granger fan and Wynn filters been using it for 10 years now,and am happy with it. I have more into my system than you charged for yours, I think they got a terrific deal.

Herb

Edited by Dadio

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Now that you’ve had the ClearVue for a bit how does it stack up to the Oneida? 

 

Also so how difficult was it to swap out the motor from 2hp to 5hp?

 

i have the same model and trying to decide to change the motor up or get the ClearVue 

 

thanks!

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In terms of airflow performance, there is no comparison. The CV has such a large impeller (16" on mine, versus the 14 1/4" on the Oneida) it's an unfair comparison. The CV moves so much air the overblade pick up actually sucks the insert out of my saw. In terms of separation, I haven't used it long enough to really know, but I can say that at this point the gauge I have on the CV shows absolutely no filter build up of fine dust at all, and my visual inspections of what I empty out of the dust bin (55 gallon steel drum) indicate that it gets a very high percentage of the finest particles. Swapping the motor on the Oneida is not a difficult job, except for one thing. Removing the impeller from the motor shaft is nearly impossible without some very special tools. When i did mine, I called Oneida and they said they use a puller....but it's a custom made one for their products. The problem is there isn't room between the fan and the motor to get any kind of puller arms in there. I wound up taking the assembly to a motor shop and they pulled it off. They said the heated the impeller with an acetylene torch to get it off. Now let me mention a few things that you didn't ask about. In my case i changed the motor because the OEM was overloading based on amp draw. Something about my setup had that motor running on the very edge of burning out. Changing it to a larger motor solved that problem...but in no way did the unit move more air. The motors turn at 3600 RPM, when the RPM slows a little they draw more juice to get to their stated speed, that's what my OEM motor was doing. But the larger motor also only turned at 3600 RPM, thus the impeller wasn't moving faster and only drawing the same air flow. So unless your taxing your motor to it's limits (measured with amp draw) it would be of no advantage to change it to a larger one. As for changing to a CV, air flow will be greatly enhanced, but so will noise. My CV will generate about 94 dB when it's on (by itself), and the other tools just increase that. I see CV offers an all-steel one now, if I had known it was coming when I bought mine I would have waited and bought that one in the hopes it might not be so loud. Even so, I'm happy with the change I made and would do it again; but probably stay with the smaller impeller on the CV.

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Thanks!

 

You just helped me immensely!

 

I’ve have the Oneida for 1year and works ok but not sting enough to plum the whole shop and can only start three times in a row before tripping and needing 60 seconds to reset 

 

found a clearvue for 1200 that looks older but works well 

 

i think ill I’ll buy the clearvue now!

 

really appreciate the help!

 

 

C8610406-6181-4EA4-A833-DE38DF8C4A71.jpeg

4A20EDC2-F74F-4B3F-8C55-EC9398311F26.jpeg

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The Oneida you have is much better built than the units they offer now, they've changed some of the parts (like the elbow going to the filter) to a type of plastic/composite material, and some things you have are now an add on extra, like the wall bracket and the OEM dust bin. You should have no trouble selling it.

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Thanks Fred

 

one issue I always had is you can only start three times in a row before tripping and needing 60 seconds to reset.  If I wait at least 60 second between starting it I have no probslems.

i think it’s due to the settings

did you remember if you had this prob or the setting you used

I’ll load a pic of the switch

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That's the same switch (and motor) that came with mine, but I never used it (still have it, in fact). I know Baldor warns about switching the motor on/off more than 6 times or so an hour, but I never had any problem with mine in that regard. The amp settings on yours appear to be set a little high (13.5 amps); I just looked at mine and see it's set at 12. It's my understanding (and this may be wrong) the setting should never be more than the motor amps x the SF (service factor), so for that motor it would be 11.5 x 1.15, or 13.2 amps. What I don't know is whether that's related to what your seeing or not. Sorry I can't be of more help. But to give you some perspective on why I changed my motor, mine was pulling 13 amps on my system with one gate open....and Oneida spec'd it should pull less with all the gates open. Oh, the reason I never used the OEM switch was that I had a remote from my previous DC that I used instead.

Edited by Fred W. Hargis Jr

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On ‎12‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 7:08 AM, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

As for changing to a CV, air flow will be greatly enhanced, but so will noise.

While I do not have near the system you guys have I did deal with noise.  When I built the addition to the shop I added a extra 6 feet to the far end.  Put doors on the back side and separated the DC / compressor from the shop with a wall, 2x8 thick and filled with noise reducing insulation I got from a school that was being torn down.  The noise was reduced so much I was leaving the DC on by mistake.  Installed a red light inside that comes on when the circuit is active reminding me when I leave the shop turn it off.

 

Having been in many shops I have yet to see anyone else do this, that is put the DC outside the shop.  Since descriptions are difficult to picture, here are two.

vented doors.JPG

DC and Compressor.JPG

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4 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

While I do not have near the system you guys have I did deal with noise.  When I built the addition to the shop I added a extra 6 feet to the far end.  Put doors on the back side and separated the DC / compressor from the shop with a wall, 2x8 thick and filled with noise reducing insulation I got from a school that was being torn down.  The noise was reduced so much I was leaving the DC on by mistake.  Installed a red light inside that comes on when the circuit is active reminding me when I leave the shop turn it off.

 

Having been in many shops I have yet to see anyone else do this, that is put the DC outside the shop.  Since descriptions are difficult to picture, here are two.

vented doors.JPG

DC and Compressor.JPG

I did he same, only there was an existing open alcove where the side door is to enter the garage. I enclosed that and built a secound 2X4 wall, insulated with 4" Rockwool and tacked HF moving blankets to the studs inside walls and the ceiling. then put my air compressor and Cyclone in there, also put garage door sensors in the dust bin with a strobe light in the shop to tell me when to MT the bin. I can hear the DC unit running, but can have normal conversation at the same time. Also the electrical control box for the DC is in the shop and has a running light on it plus a Digital amp meter that is lit blue when running reading the motor current draw,also I can tell by the amps if I am getting close to needing to check the bin.

Herb

Edited by Dadio

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22 minutes ago, Dadio said:

Digital amp meter that is lit blue when running reading the motor current draw,also I can tell by the amps if I am getting close to needing to check the bin.

Something I will have to look into.  Normally I just check the bin once a month and be done.  BUT, I have these moments...  They tell me it gets worse with age...

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5 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Something I will have to look into.  Normally I just check the bin once a month and be done.  BUT, I have these moments...  They tell me it gets worse with age...

Here is the set up I have including the strobe light sensors.

Herb

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