Ron Altier Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 (edited) I have an older Delta 11" surface planer. Maybe 12 years old. I don't use it a lot and it has always done a good job. Today I got it out to plane down a couple of blood wood pieces 12" long by 7" wide. The cuts were wavy and not good. I haven't used it for a year or more. The blades are sharp. I'm thinking that the wavy cuts are a result of slippage in the drive roller. I took thinner cuts as I went to see if that would help, it didn't What are your thoughts? I'd like to know before I tare it apart. Thanks Edited November 22, 2017 by Ron Dudelston tags added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HandyDan Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 Wax the table and clean the rollers. John Moody 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Altier Posted April 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 Thanks Dan, I did do as you suggested. I just figured the drive rollers were worn out or distorted. I found them slick and cleaned them up. I cleaned and waxed the bed surfaces. I also found one of the gaskets on the dust duct in the wrong position and partially blocking it. I tried to remember the last time I did all this and I guess it has been WAY overdue. I had even forgotten about cleaning the rubber rollers Then came the "Honey do" So I'll have to wait till I'm done with that before I can try again. I'll let you know p_toad and HARO50 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallpatch Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 Dan you don't want to wax the table if the board is slipping. It would make it slip even more so. Clean the table so it will pull the board on past the knives. Even if you take less than before you might even take less and try it. I try to take less than 1/16" per pass and I also push and pull the board if it wants to slow down or stop. The board needs to move past the knives at a pace where it moves perfect, no stalls or slow downs. That is why the power feeders are so expensive. They will show you some good results on making boards really flat and smooth.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Gerald Posted April 17, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Smallpatch said: Dan you don't want to wax the table if the board is slipping. It would make it slip even more so. Clean the table so it will pull the board on past the knives. Even if you take less than before you might even take less and try it. I try to take less than 1/16" per pass and I also push and pull the board if it wants to slow down or stop. The board needs to move past the knives at a pace where it moves perfect, no stalls or slow downs. That is why the power feeders are so expensive. They will show you some good results on making boards really flat and smooth.. Have to disagree with you on this. Waxing the table allows the board to slide easier and the rollers are what controls the forward feed at the smooth rate to get an even cut. I have had this discussion on waxing the ways on a lathe with some believing the wax will cause banjo and tailstock to slip and that is just not the case there either. HandyDan, HARO50, John Moody and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roly Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 9 minutes ago, Gerald said: Have to disagree with you on this. Waxing the table allows the board to slide easier and the rollers are what controls the forward feed at the smooth rate to get an even cut. I have had this discussion on waxing the ways on a lathe with some believing the wax will cause banjo and tailstock to slip and that is just not the case there either. I agree with Gerald. Waxing the bed and cleaning the rollers should help. If not, the blades may not be a sharp as you think. Bloodwood is a very dense and hard wood. Roly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallpatch Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 Sorry for the bad info. I was standing here looking at the drum sander and giving my info. I never had my planer on my little brain when typing. Having a long flat table approach and a long flat exit ramp is also important to get good results from a planer. Yep the rollers are all that runs the wood through so yes Johnsons paste wax is what I use. And it won't hurt the wood for finishing later. It sure sounds like you are trying to take too big of a cut so back off. This process takes a while so slow down and enjoy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallpatch Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 Also sand and grit from being stored close to the ground is bad on blades. Do use a stiff dry paint brush and a blow gun to remove the bad stuff before running it through the planer. Changing blades ain't no fun and for sure they ain't free.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ron Altier Posted April 17, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 Now that the honey dos are done and I have returned everything as it was, except the dirt and dust. I used Johnsons paste wax and then tried some junk hardwood. Worked slick as a whistle. Got out my Blood Wood work piece and the same there................did a fine job. My big problem is storing this heavy piece. I sure wish I had the space for it and a stand........like my old shop. Change what you can...........adapt to what you can't change. Kinda like life Nickp, p_toad, LarryS and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Altier Posted April 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Smallpatch said: Also sand and grit from being stored close to the ground is bad on blades. Do use a stiff dry paint brush and a blow gun to remove the bad stuff before running it through the planer. Changing blades ain't no fun and for sure they ain't free.. The first time I changed blades was quite an experience. All went well, except for one blade retaining screw. Try as I may, it would not budge. Must have been gaulded in place. Rather than strip it and ruin it all, I chose to apply heat with a very small torch. After much effort ( heat, bump, try, repeat) it broke loose. I called Delta and they said there had been others report problems too. They sent a whole set of screws. I looked at each carefully to make sure each had good thread. p_toad 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 22, 2017 Report Share Posted May 22, 2017 Ron elsewhere theres some videos bout building ''swevel'' to mount that heavy planner on/in/??. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastback Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 I know that this is an older post but just thought that I would add that all of your cast iron tables should be cleaned and waxed often. You will find that you tools and machines will preform much better. Johnson's wax or any good wood wax will do the job. Car waxes have silicon and may be transferred to the wood and could cause problems with finishing. Paul HARO50 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Beitz Posted March 13, 2020 Report Share Posted March 13, 2020 Keep your drive belts tight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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