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Sweet rig~!!!  4140 is tough stuff.  Miserable to weld because ya gotta pre-heat it to 600 or more  and ramp it down slowly or  else the welds can crack  DAMHIKT. They can be plenty strong welds cracks and all, but the cracks will fail an inspection and they are embarrassing.

 

It feels hardened to machine it in comparison to say - -  A36.  I can cut it with HSS but Carbide is better.

 

Why not skip the laser and go for BAROQUE~!!  Get a 12 VDC rear view camera and a little display and build your own version of the Trent Bosch Visualizer for like less than $50.00   That's the Bosch system is.

 

Edited by Cliff
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50 minutes ago, Cliff said:

 

Why not skip the laser and go for BAROQUE~!!  Get a 12 VDC rear view camera and a little display and build your own version of the Trent Bosch Visualizer for like less than $50.00   That's the Bosch system is.

 

 

 

I've watched a video using the camera method several times. I'm not convinced it's really better than a laser. That, and for what I have in mind I hope to eventually get final thickness using an LED. I don't know if it's possible, or maybe I should say possible for me but I'd like to turn 16-18" tall, thin enough to pierce.

 

 

 

Steve

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Over the top Steve...I'll just pretend I really understand all about this...just don't tell anyone:P...Great thread post...FWIW, you've got the makings of another great blog entry here to be followed with your tool rest and laser set-up...I assume we'll get some video links once you start turning with this too...

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1 minute ago, Kevin Beitz said:

Nice.... 

Whats a series dropping resistor used for? 

Shut off shock?

These lasers are typically powered by 3 each LR44 batteries (1.5 volts each). The USB power brick supplies 5 volts. The series dropping resistor reduces the voltage from 5 volts down to 4.5 volts. The laser will last longer.

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