Cliff Posted May 5, 2015 Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 My Hammer rip fence died. AT LAST~!!!!! I hated that thing. It was as if some one brought their 12 year old to work and let her design and engineer the rip fence. So I order some stinkin bleedin OVERKILL metal 0.200" thick 2" x 3" steel tube 1/4" thick 3" x 3" angle Some more smaller angle and some 2"x 3/8" bar. I had a hunk of 3/8 x 6" laying around Here's my progress so far: End view of the Fence in progress There are 13, 1/4-20 bolts holding them together pinned on the ends with dowel pins Yes I hand tapped them. I hung it on the saw tonight. There is also an end support. This is about 60 pounds of steel. There are only two bolt locations on the Euro style saw. That left a huge honking long mess of steel cantilevered off the end looking solely for support to some sheet metal tables they sell with the saw. It's really a small piece of cast iron they have for the saw. IT works but it's not big. My saw is stationary. So I cheated. I installed an end support for the fence onto the concrete floor. I anchored a hunk of 6" x 3/8" steel to the floor with TapCons. But first I welded a hunk of angle to that so it's stand vertically and installed a cap with a 3/8-16 tapped hole for a leveling screw. So now, I can adjust the angle of the dangle quite nicely. No pics of it on the saw tonight. To much of a mess. Now I'm cutting iron and brass for the L fence. It's going to have a hunk of Aluminum extrusion as the main fence component but it'll lock to the guide rails mush like ( only way far better than ) a Biesemeyer. I plan on fabricating an eccentric cam clamp using ball bearings to eliminate scrub wear. Can't use a Bies' or a Vega because it's a Euro saw and the T style won't do. It's got to be an L style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted May 5, 2015 Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 Lookin' Good so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courtland Posted May 5, 2015 Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 Cliff I love your improv with this stuff, you have done this before and I enjoy seeing it all. Are you going to paint the guide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Howe Posted May 5, 2015 Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 As my pop would say, "That's hellferstout". Looking forward to seeing it in operation. John...Paint????? Powder coat that master piece!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Dudelston Posted May 5, 2015 Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 That is a "substantial" piece of equipment Cliff. Did you have to put an overhead crane up to install it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courtland Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 As my pop would say, "That's hellferstout". Looking forward to seeing it in operation. John...Paint????? Powder coat that master piece!!! That is exactly what I was thinking Gene, but knowing how Cliff loves doing these things all from scratch, and I don't think powder coating can be done from home, or can it? I was going with the common rattle can assumption that Cliff may do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 Are you going to paint the guide? Paint??? You think I'm EVER going to actually finish a project? I don't know if I'll apply a finish. The contact surface between the brass glides and the steel tube will have to be bare meta. But the rest of it - - - LEMETELLYA descaling that great long hunk of 1/4" X 3" X 3" angle has proved to be a bigger job than me. The black oxide millscale is deep in pits and grindering it all off is not much of an option. I spent a few hours at it and - - well that in the pix is a good as I got. I tried some real muriatic ( 20% technical HCl) not the stuff they sell at the BORG but the real stuff. But because the angle is so long I couldn't do a real pickle and brushing acid on is not an option. I tried. It just doesn't get the job done. So I got most of it off, but not all. That sort of says that a paint is a doomed effort. Maybe wax is the way to go. Maybe sand blasting will do it? I have a little blaster, but I can only bring 120 pounds of air to the party and that'll only cover an area about 1/2" diameter so it'd be a S-L-O-W process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 That is a "substantial" piece of equipment Cliff. Did you have to put an overhead crane up to install it? It's HEAVY~!! A tad more heavy than I anticipated. But then I'm the kid whose eyes were always bigger than his stomach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Dudelston Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 There are a ton of jokes that I could throw in here but I won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 I'm going to need a way to mount the shaft that will be the eccentric cam. OK I considered welding something up but I got this hunk of steel an angle about 5' long and about 6" x 6" on the flange sides by 3/8" thick So I'll cut some angle off that. It'll be thick enough ( ya think???) Well the bearing are 3/8" thick so it sort of makes sense. Yah it's heavy, but I only want to make this once. So I cut of some bots of that angle with my grinder and chopsaw. Then I tossed it in some acid to decsale it. But how to get the hole for the bearing?? I mean I need a hole that is exactly and precisely 1.375 plus nothing minus 0.001 and zero tenths. IT's press fit for the bearing. I don't want slop. And it's 3/8" thick And my little Walker Turner Drill Press is tapped out at anything around 3/4" in steel and drilling won't cut it anyways coz I need hold a tight tight tolerance. Well, I got an Elgin jewelers lathe that I got for free. I got a 4 jaw chuck. It'll be a stretch but I think I can do it. Here it is being positioned in the 4-jaw. I'm using a center to get it ball parked Squaring up the face and then the hole which was done in the Drill Press It's going to be close~!!! Whirrr Measuring the bore - I'm working to within a half a thou' I been to this rodeo before It's going in nicely ( I need to do this one more time) Mind you I considered the logic of working to such tolerances to get a press fit on a bearing that is going to be installed in ANGLE IRON~!!! Yah I know the angle of the Angle Iron is not going to be square to start with. And I lack a milling machine or a grinder. So when I press fit the shaft into the bearing ( it'll be a very light fit maybe 0.0005" interference) the contact surfaces of the two angles will be wildly out of plane with each other. But, I have a plan. It calls for abrasives and patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Howe Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 I'll bet it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 Well, I got the work done on my little custom pedestal bearing blocks. they are all flat and squared up And I made the eccentric cam clamp shaft. It's about 8" long between the bearings. I figure this'll give me lots of Spring to accomplish a real stiff clamping action. I turned it between a 4 jaw chuck and a live center There's a video of it and it works Here it is in the lathe Close up of the eccentric part of the eccentric The sub assembly Pre fit I left the ends long to get a wrench around for when I fit it with a handle and set the loading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 https://youtu.be/ky88ga8i-zo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courtland Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 Man of all trades you are Cliff. Way to go sir. I have never turned anything on lathe other than wood. That is a whole different discipline that I know nothing about and respect. That being said, my pea brain is lost on this one, what is the purpose of the cam? Is this for tightening down the fence? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 what is the purpose of the cam? Is this for tightening down the fence? Yah exactly. It'll hang underneath and the large bearings will bear against the 3x3 steel guide tube. Of course there'll be brass glide stock and a metal hinged piece adding a little more thickness. I'll add a clamping handle to the shaft. Prolly a hunk of half inch shaft and make a knob for the end. Then set it so that just as the bearign passes the TDC against the guide tube it'll be flexing the whole system up a bit then the eccentric shaft will hit a stop and lock. Sort of exactly similar to how a Biesemyer Cam lock works only with bearings and a shaft to get some flex. It'll be lots heavier too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courtland Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 Yah exactly. It'll hang underneath and the large bearings will bear against the 3x3 steel guide tube. Of course there'll be brass glide stock and a metal hinged piece adding a little more thickness. I'll add a clamping handle to the shaft. Prolly a hunk of half inch shaft and make a knob for the end. Then set it so that just as the bearign passes the TDC against the guide tube it'll be flexing the whole system up a bit then the eccentric shaft will hit a stop and lock. Sort of exactly similar to how a Biesemyer Cam lock works only with bearings and a shaft to get some flex. It'll be lots heavier too. Wholly Cow you'll be able to clamp it so a Mack truck could not move it. Nice job Cliff. Is this design similar to anything out there today in saw fences? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 My Vega fence locks with a cam, too. The "micro" adjustment uses a second similar cam lock, unfortunately the tightening lever is too short to get enough locking force. I typically use a piece of wood and give it a good whack to tighten. Seeing what you are doing, I may just have to sub in machine shop and make a longer lever shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 Wholly Cow you'll be able to clamp it so a Mack truck could not move it. Nice job Cliff. Is this design similar to anything out there today in saw fences? Thanks. There's not anything that I have seen using a the long cam clamp shaft. The whole design is one forced upon me by the Euro style Sliding Saw where the slider prevents one form having a fence guide that runs to the left of the blade. The Beisemyer and clones has the Fence proper projecting from the center of the fence locking head. That won't do for a Euro saw. I I had to off set the fence itself. They sell one for Euro Saws and there's a guy with VSCTools - DOT - com has one for about $400, but you gotta build your own steel tube guide system and that seemed to me to be half the battle right there. So I decided to go every one - one or two or maybe three better. But if I wanted a three point clamp ( how all the Beis and clones work) I needed to clamp from the center. This gizmo with all the bearings sort of evolved as I considered scrub wear on the clamping mechanism. I figured bearings might just be the ticket and then - as they say- it was all history. And on the up side it'll be heavy enough that I can use the removable T fence as exercise equipment && a home defense weapon too. Courtland 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 Oh my blessed Saints Hubertus and Eligius It is coming together~!!! I put an indicator on the end of the T fence. Slid it into position to touch the indicator and locked the lock and the dial moved not so much as one thousandth. And I can't budge it once it is locked in position Here pix In this one you can see it upside down with the five brass glides. Up by the red pen you can see the little 1.75" dia delrin wheel I turned to mount on the end of the fence main support bar to keep the thing from dragging on the tables. You can see the wood handle I turned for the lever, it's not yet mounted. You can see the two leveling jack screws over by the orange handled screwdriver. They are brass lock nuts I made with little brass washers and each has a 5/16-18 rather long grub-screw that will bear against a little steel washer epoxied into a spot face in the brass glided to adjust the angle of the Final Aluminum Extrusion Fence. In a lower pix the wheel and leveling jacks are mounted Couldn't resist a sexy close up POOF it's mounted on the saw. See the two leveling jack screws? They will be shortened. I adjust with an allen wrench and tighten the brass lock nut to set it in place. Crummy close up picture of the Delrin whell that prevents it from dragging on the tables There is the wheel mounted on the end of the main support bar There is a 12" length of 3 x 2 steel tube that I'll bolt to this main support bar which lets me adjust the angle to the blade. Some folks prefer set their fence as close to dead Parallel to the blade as they can. I prefer a slight drift away of a couple thou' to prevent binding. Video to follow as soon as Google is ready to show it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 Patent Pending?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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