Justin Hughes Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Alright, I've been itching to taking my turning to the next level, and to start with that I want to turn a Salt/pepper grinder set.  Now as I've only been turning pens up to this point, I'm fairly sure that I'm lacking some essential components like a jam chuck (or any chuck for that matter), a large live center at least 1.25" at the largest diameter, and probably a drill chuck as well. I plan to use the shafted Crush Grind kit as I would like a longer set and like the ceramic head and dial adjustment for the grinder component. So, instead of wandering through the immense number of choices available to me on the various websites, I wanted to get some opinions/recommendations from a set of veteran turners, and where better than here?  P.S here's the design I worked up for the set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Moody Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Justin, I have to admit I have turned quit a few things but I have yet to turn a pepper mill. I have the kit to turn it but just haven't gotten around to making one. I am hoping some of the other guys on here that turn will jump in and help you out. (me too for that matter). Thanks for asking and I am looking forward to see the replies. John MoodyJohn Moody Woodworkshttp://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Here is a link that has some instructions- http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Articles.aspx?articleid=619 Using a midi chuck and jacobs chuck makes things a lot easier, especially when drilling out the blank for the various internal diameters. For the length of your grinder, you may also need a forstner bit extension. Lew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Hughes Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 That's kind of what I had in mind. Is there anything in particular I should watch out for or is a chuck a chuck (still learning).Penn State has a drill bit set for this kit that includes an extension though not the jacobs chuck. Very nice article as well. Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Not having used the chuck from Penn State, I can't speak to it's quality. I got mine from Craft Supplies USA  http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/catalog?Args= I think it's a TeknaTool brand. I usually buy forstner bits when I need them instead of a set, that way I only have the sizes I need and use. Definitely get the extension, however. Depending on the type of grinding mechanisms used, you may also need a long 1/4" twist bit. I use one that's about 10". As for the Jacobs drill chuck, they are extremely handy for lathe use. Depending on where you mount it- head or tail stock- you can use it for drilling, sanding or buffing.Looking forward to seeing your salt and pepper grinders! LewJustin Hughes said:That's kind of what I had in mind. Is there anything in particular I should watch out for or is a chuck a chuck (still learning).Penn State has a drill bit set for this kit that includes an extension though not the jacobs chuck. Very nice article as well. Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Hughes Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 I'm the same way, in this case the drill bit kit I was referring to only includes the 4 bits needed for grinder and the and extension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 That sounds like a good deal. Didn't realize the kit was specifically for the grinders.BTW, I like your design. Having the "top" separate at a transition point is visually appealing and will conceal any misalignment. Haven't used all of the different grinding mechanisms but some designs work better if there is a "tenon" cut on either the body or the head to improve the stability between the two.Justin Hughes said:I'm the same way, in this case the drill bit kit I was referring to only includes the 4 bits needed for grinder and the and extension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Hope you don't mind but I slightly modified you diagram to illustrate the tenon/mortise idea- Lewis Kauffman said: That sounds like a good deal. Didn't realize the kit was specifically for the grinders. BTW, I like your design. Having the "top" separate at a transition point is visually appealing and will conceal any misalignment. Haven't used all of the different grinding mechanisms but some designs work better if there is a "tenon" cut on either the body or the head to improve the stability between the two.Justin Hughes said: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Hughes Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 I don't mind at all, it is just a drawing after all, and if I wasn't using this particular kit, I would definitely take that into account. I've uploaded the instructions for the crushgrind kit, and you can see on the second page, the top portion of the kit acts as a tenon as well.You can also see it a little better from this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCGcBWSJNpY&feature=related (at 8:00 min he assembles the cap). I will be keeping that idea in mind though as a general rule because now that I look back on all the previous grinders that i've owned, I can see that it has a mortise and tenon for proper centering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Cool- I'll have to try one of these mechanisms, Thanks for the idea!Justin Hughes said:I don't mind at all, it is just a drawing after all, and if I wasn't using this particular kit, I would definitely take that into account. I've uploaded the instructions for the crushgrind kit, and you can see on the second page, the top portion of the kit acts as a tenon as well.You can also see it a little better from this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCGcBWSJNpY&feature=related (at 8:00 min he assembles the cap). I will be keeping that idea in mind though as a general rule because now that I look back on all the previous grinders that i've owned, I can see that it has a mortise and tenon for proper centering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Swearingen Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 Justin-- Did you ever get to try out making a mill? Semper fiwww.swearingen-turnings.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Hughes Posted October 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 Not as of yet. I'm a little tight right now, so until I can borrow a chuck or afford to buy one, the project is on hold. Had too many weddings this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQ Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 I am years off from trying a project like that. Â It's going to be gorgeous. Â Good luck and looking forward to seeing the pictures. Â SQÂ It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Swearingen Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 SQ-You really aren't. I turned my first grinder a few weeks ago as a commissioned piece. It took me three hours, but only because I was nervous and took it VERY slowly. The next one took me about 35 minutes, and even then, I was going slowly. The third was done in 20 minutes. The hard part is just wrapping your mind around where you need your cuts, tenons, and mortises. It's actually really easy. Semper fiwww.swearingen-turnings.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Swearingen Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Nah, just the practice and knowing what cuts I was going to make going in.  With practice, you'll learn to turn a single-barrel pen from rough to finished in ten minutes or so.  Once it was trued up, I think I was spinning at around 2k rpm. I don't know exactly because I have a 3-phase motor with an inverter that only tells what hertz it's running on; I haven't bothered trying to figure out the speed. If it vibrates, it's too fast, so I back off until it's smooth.  Semper fiwww.swearingen-turnings.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Hughes Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Pens are a great way to practice higher speeds since the blanks are small and fairly inexpensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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