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Delta 700 Scroll Saw Restoration, and Upgrade


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Hi again,

 

I spent the past weekend building a buffer to polish the frame tubes, and other parts such as the brass upper plunger tube, and bolts and nuts that I won't be replacing. I also finished cleaning parts that had not been done yet. I'll let the photos show the progress.100_01281?width=721

 

 

I used Porter Cable buffing compounds.100_01292?width=721

 

 

The table cleaned up well with the random orbital sander.100_01301?width=721

 

 

I began assembly with the table.100_01321?width=721

 

 

I polished the angle gauge with the buffer, it still has some minor scratches that I'll live with.100_01311?width=721

 

 

Then started to assemble the frame.100_01331?width=721

 

 

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Inserting the tubes into the frame legs, and drive housing turned out to be a little more than expected as they are a tight fit. I ended up having to repolish the upper tube due to the fact that I scratched the upper one when inserting it by giving it a twist going through the inboard leg. The scratches showed badly between the legs so I did the repolish, then inserted the tube without twisting the second time.

 

 

That's about it for today, tomorrow I'll assemble the drive assembly.

 

Edited by Larry Buskirk
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Thanks Ja'nette, Jack, Bob, Wayne, Doug, and anyone I may have missed.

 

The double rear supports was actually in one of Delta's catalogs, they showed it as a way to make the saw larger than 24". Doing so with the original tubes drops the saw to roughly 20" which is plenty for my needs. I thought that it gave the saw a stouter appearance, that and the fact that I allready had the parts. I will also be replacing the lower blade chuck with a steel one from a later model saw to match the upper chuck that I am using. The original chucks on the 700's was made from a pot-metal type substance that is prone to failure with repeated tightening of the blade set screw, so I hope to avoid problems with them by replacement with the steel chucks.

 

 

I'll be assembling the drive train mechanism today, and possibly the rest of the saw. I've got a couple more parts to polish, and paint also so I'll keep everyone posted as to todays progress with an update later today.

 

Edited by Larry Buskirk
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Hi again,

 

Today I assembled the lower drive assembly, and most of the rest of the saw. I need to pick up some RTV sealant, and pipe joint compound to properly seal the drive housing cover, and bearing housing assembly to the drive housing. I'll let the photos show todays progress. The first photo shows the parts before assembly.100_01411?width=721

 

 

The next photo shows the inner bearing installed on the crankshaft after packing with grease, it also shows the fibre washers installed into the bearing housing.100_01422?width=721

 

 

The next photo shows installing the crankshaft into the bearing housing.100_01451?width=721

 

 

Now the outer bearing.100_01441?width=721

 

 

The bearing cover.100_01501?width=721

 

 

Felt washer first then fibre washer.100_01511?width=721

 

 

I got out of order here so now I'll go back to the blower pump assembly.100_01461?width=721

 

 

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100_01491?width=721

 

 

The completed bearing housing.100_01531?width=721

 

 

Now installing the lower plunger shaft.100_01541?width=721

 

 

Installing the cross-slide.100_01551?width=721

 

 

I lined up the hole in the cross-slide with the dimple on the plunger tube so the set screw would be in proper location on the plunger tube. The two dimples are directly across from each other in case you would want to change which side your drive pulley is mounted. I will be adding a second set screw to lock the cone pointed set screw to keep it from coming loose.100_01591?width=721

 

 

The set screw is located in the center circle on the back side of the cross-slide. There are plenty of threads to add a second set screw to lock the first one, this should prevent the cross-slide from coming loose and further damaging the plunger tube. I also have to pick up a cork to put inside the plunger tube to prevent oil from coming up the tube, and prevent broken blade pieces from making thier way into the crankcase. This is per the diagram that I downloaded from Vintage Machines. org website. The vertical wings on the cross-slide above and below the set screw hole fit into the groove on the back of the housing cover to prevent the cross-slide from turning in the crankcase. The next photo shows the fibre slide block installed.100_01561?width=721

 

 

The pin on the crankshaft fits into the bronze bushing in the fibre block above.100_01571?width=721

 

 

I only finger tightened the screws that hold the bearing housing, and crankcase covers as I have to apply RTV sealant to form a gasket for both pieces. I will also use pipe joint compound on the bolt threads to prevent oil leaks. The manual says to use shellac but with todays sealants I'll get a better seal. The next photo shows the table installed.100_01621?width=721

 

 

The green air hose is from a medical oxygen machine. I made clips for the air hose that were shown in the manual that I downloaded, it just showed that they were there but not what they looked like. Neither saw had them or the chip blower tube which I will also fabricate.100_01711?width=721

 

 

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I will be adding the other end cap from the second saw to cover the lower frame tube end. On the upper tube there is a through rod that attaches the upper plunger assembly to the saw, I will use the bolt that tightens the drive housing to the lower tube from the second saw along with one of the wooden plugs I used to spin the tubes on the lathe to attach the second end cap. A look at the almost assembled saw.100_01601?width=721

 

 

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I still need to fabricate the chip blower tube, install a pulley, finish cleaning up and polishing the table inserts, and do an alignment on the saw but it is getting closer to being a working saw. I also have a steel lower blade chuck coming (from ebay) for the saw so that I can replace the cast pot-metal one. I also have to make my decals which I found the materials for. I haven't had a chance to figure the software out yet. It's a Testors decal kit for models, that I will be using to print decal images that I downloaded from the Vintage Machines. org website WIKI. So maybe next time I'll be able to quote Frankenstein and say IT'S ALIVE!

 

Edited by Larry Buskirk
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Larry

 

This is just awesome man. It looks band new and once in use I am sure you will enjoy and reap the benefits of you labor of love for this machine. Thanks for taking us through this with you. I am getting a much better understanding of the thoughts and pride of restoring these machines. Hard not to get bit by this bug indeed.

 

 

 

 


 

Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

Edited by Larry Buskirk
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Thanks Wayne,

 

I'm not sure if I would call it a labor of love or not, but I've enjoyed doing this machine. I also wouldn't call it a true restoration as I have changed colors, and used parts from newer model machines to make it functional again. I would call it an exercise in frugal recycling. It does retain the flavor of the original machine, so in that respect feel I have done a little part in preserving a small part of history. As to my Frankenstein comment it may be more factual in the fact that it is actually a combination of four different machines combined to make one usable piece of equipment. I'm sure that I will enjoy using it once it is finished, and look forward to doing so.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Larry Buskirk
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Hi again,

 

First off I would like to thank everyone for the kind comments. I've made a little more progress towards the completion of the saw.

 

 

I recieved the steel lower blade chuck yesterday, and as I had hoped it is a direct replacement. I also fabricated the blower tube, and made a pair of table inserts from fender washers. I also painted and temporarily installed the drive pulley. I have to start writing myself lists when I go for parts as lately I forget half of what I go to get. I was looking through the 1931-1937 Delta catalogs again today, and saw another part that I feel that I will have to fabricate for this scroll saw. That is a finger guard that Delta had in I believe was the 1935 catalog. Of course I'll make it out of brass. So for now I'll let everyone see the small amount of progress since the last update.

 

 

First up a comparison of the lower blade chucks.100_01751?width=721

 

 

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The cork was sanded to press fit size, and is installed into the lower plunger tube to prevent broken blades from entering the crankcase. The following photo shows the homemade blower tube, and table inserts.100_01801?width=721

 

 

The following photos show the parts installed.100_01811?width=721

 

 

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The wife says that the red sets off the color scheme that I used, so I believe that I will stick with this color scheme for the rest of the machines that I will be doing.  I myself like it better than the typical Delta grey, and as an earlier photo of the American Boy scroll saw shows, it was a color scheme once used by Delta a decade earlier.

 

 

So next time I will take a list when I run for supplies, and maybe in the next update we'll be able to make some sawdust.

 

 

Now to figure out how to make decals, and how to do video on my camera so I can show making sawdust.

 

Edited by Larry Buskirk
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Hello Brother,

 

That saw sure looks different from the last time I saw it. No pun intended. You did a real good job on it. I can not believe what a difference a little elbow grease and paint has done to the old saw. I need to get out there and see it in person. Maybe this weekend I will be able to get out there. Keep up the good work on it. Your Brother Todd.

 

Edited by Larry Buskirk
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