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Wadkin RM Under Over 26" jointer on top a 24x9 planner 1920s to late 40s

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The wadkin R family of machines were designed in the 20s and built up until the mid 50s they were the first generation of machines in England to be offered Line belt or motor dive. Most of the time you will see that the motors are just after thoughts. I have be on the look out for a few of these rare machines. I have an RS lathe and RD jointer but the Wadkin RM is a hard one to find. When you talk as much as i do about wadkin people start to contact you and give you the heads up on where machines can be had. It is in this cast that the RM makes it way to me. A friend and Wadkin lover (RD and RK owner) got this before the scrap man. He was going to keep it but call me up and said it needs to be in the Wadkin dream shop. I am never to sale it and he said he get to try it out when i Jackafie it. I am beside myself.

The wadkin RM 3200lbs of the best  British Arn.



the RM came with a manual it is hand written.


he made a video of it for me here it is

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2 day ARN haul horse trade. The wadkin RM Over under is in the yard. sorry boys i use a sissy 400HP tractor for loading:)


home to be taken care of and placed in the wadkin tempal.


skewed knife head


used a scale for scale:


head has the removable plates for moulding


one box of scary came with it


and few other toys



English machines


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Hey Jack, brief us on the logistics of restoring a massive machine like this. Floor space, shop space for all the parts in their differing states of restoration, and the challenges one might have while moving pieces around from location to location. This is amazing Jack, I am floored man. I will be looking for more updates if you'll do us the honor posting them in the future. But for now, I am really interested in how you handle this physically.

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Jack I'm always amazed at how good Wadkin machines look on the inside. That red paint that was used under the tables, in the gearboxes, etc really holds up well. Here's a shot of the infeed on my RM:


Looks like you've got some work ahead of you, but it'll be well worth it.


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John this thing is big. it takes up about the space of 2 10" cabinet saws. a pump cart can move this so that the best mobil  base for it. for moving it from location to location you need the serves of rigger(that's the name of the pros that do this type of work). you can do it your self like i did but i have a 7 ton trailer with drop axcels amd hydraulic dump and drop ramps. Arthur has moved some crazy stuff and is a real pro. he"s the one to tell you what it takes to move tonnages. In most case you don;t need much.you can move a lot on pipe Maybe Arthur will tell you all about a the 30,000 lbs mill he move this summer.

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the red paint is some thing . I will make it pop when I jackife this baby. here are some more pic that I think you will find intersting


John a grown man can not pick this motor up and I don't care how big you are. that's a tall boy can of beer for scale. I found this Wadkin motor with wadkin pulley's the right size for the head on the machines. this never happens. and the good part is it was free, so I have the head motor. I also got the electrics out of Daves RM so I have a starter for a 15hp motor, the PO rig was a joke.






the head is missing a bolt for the clam and some of the bolts don't look wadkin




this a wadkin bolt it has a round head




these are not but there is the same one on the there side for balance




just so you can get a sense of the size of the jointer i put a tall beer on the table




Now Arthur may be the only one that will appreciate these next pics


the rack pinon handle is diffident from my older 16" RD its ARN with more webs. it could be use as a dating tool. so this machines is i would think after world war 2 when Britain had many aluminum foundry for the war effort.




the wadkin head tool and the canting table




jointer tables crank




dirty papers(manual)






notice the 25 hrzs



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I don't think all of my machines together weigh as much as this beautifull beast!18.gif

I'm looking forward to see how you Jackifie this one, I'm sure I'll pick up a few more tips along the way.113.gif

Glad to see you found a motor also.



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I move mine around pretty frequently. I bolted 4x4's to the feet. I have a stubby pallet jack that fits inside the skids perfectly. If I have long stock to joint or face, I'll push it outside onto the pad in front of the shop and run it there. The footprint is huge. It is nearly as deep as it is wide. Without measuring I'd say 49 sqft floor space required (for full accessibility). Here's a picture of the back of the machine with the motors:




Jack, I noticed you're missing the pineapple weight for the guard. Let me know if you want me to drop mine at the foundry and have one cast.



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can you cast one in bronzes for me i would love that. just tell me what you need. opened the head this week end and had to used a 4 foot pipe on the nuts. The PO was a edit!!!!! one of the ways to tell if threads are stretched is to turn the nut over and see if it thread on.Tried it and it does not thread on and binds ups. so i am going to change them all. I do not want bad bolts on this 6" head.looking for a source of flat knife head bolts in the east. or a source. I will try wadkin you never know. I would a least like to know what the metal is.

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Jack, I'll take it over on my next trip to the foundry. It may take some time, but I'll get it done. It's a shame about the head bolts. Especially when you consider that these knives can't really come out of the head (no need to over-torque). What's really odd is that they obviously had the head wrench. If you use just that, it would be very difficult to overtighten.





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happy new years boys hope ya got what you want from Santa.

with my time off until for the holidays i thought i would pull the head out of the Wadkin RM and work the cutter block.
There was a stud and plate bolt missing in the head and i did not like the looks of the others. The thing that got me the most was I needed a 48"cheater pipe to brake the nut free of the head,so they were way to tight.

there is an old saying about molding knife bolts::::
if you turn nut over and it wont thread on the threads are stretched. Most are that way and so here is were i need help.

the forged steel plate type cutter-block is really a great head with its skewed knifes and is also able to take moulding knifes. I did get the tool(spanner) for the head bolts that has short handle ,so i would think 60 to 100lbs is all that is need on the nuts.
any care to comment?

is there a source for the studs and nuts, and what is the grade of metal/thread etc?
the ones in there now appear to be mild steel.

The plates are tapered and so the studs lengths are long on one side and get shorter as you go across.
any old wadkin x staff around that can enlighten on how the head was balanced?

I hope this to be a discussion on the old plate type cutter-block and do not want it to turn into the safety of these old heads. I restore old wadkin kit and use it .
some pics
here is the block with the missing bolt as i got the machine






this is a Wadkin nut with the rounded top.




the spanner




head removal








nice bearing on this one
2 RM 12 self aliening double rowed brass cage on the drive side with a 2308 SKF to the out board




hand scraped bearing retainer cap.



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got the head cleaned up and ready to store until i am ready to work the other parts.I wanted to clean the rust and look at the bearing any way. here are some pics of the workings of the wadkin plate/clam head

here you can see that the cutter block is tapered on the sides the jointer knifes plates/clam go.


the wadkin head has keyed jacking/ knife adjustment screws and you don't need the plates to to hold the knifes from slipping like the Oliver head. the stud hole is through the head and the stud bottom on a small rim on the top edge.


a set of Wadkin spent knifes(no life left) with the key slot at the back on the blade. only half of the knifes are useful in this design. the blade are about 1 1/2" wide when new. You are still able to get theses from wadkin.


i have found regular knifes placed in front of the key screw. this is very dangerous with this type head.


you have a 12" section for moulding knifes in the jointer head and it does not upset the straight knifes.


the hard wood side of the head is thinner than the softwood side of the head by about 5/8" this is what skews the knife.




hope you enjoyed the view of the Wadkin Plate type head.


English machines

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