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tool613

Wadkin RM Under Over 26" jointer on top a 24x9 planner 1920s to late 40s

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"Back From The Archives:1897423278_OldManSmiley:"

 

The Wadkin R family of machines were designed in the 1920's and built up until the mid 50's they were the first generation of machines made in England to be offered Line belt or motor drive. Most of the time you will see that the motors are just after thoughts. I have been on the look out for a few of these rare machines. I have an RS lathe and RD jointer but the Wadkin RM is a hard one to find. When you talk as much as I do about Wadkin, people start to contact you and give you the heads up on where machines can be had. It is in this cast that the RM makes it way to me. A friend and Wadkin lover (RD and RK owner) got this before the scrap man. He was going to keep it but called me up and said it needs to be in the Wadkin dream shop.

I am never to sell it and he said he get's to try it out when I Jackifie it. I am beside myself.

 

The Wadkin RM, 3200lbs of the best British Arn.

WadkinRM.jpg

wadkinRM1.jpg

The RM came with a manual it is hand written.

wadkinRM2.jpgwadkinRMcat.jpgwadkinRMcat1.jpgwadkinRmcat2.jpg

 

My friend made a video of it for me here it is.

 

 

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Ok Jack, Waiting to see your magic done again, I'm sure it will be nothing short of spectacular!

 

 

 

 

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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I can see why they were giving it away. You could have had a Ryobi.

Seems to be a bit of Wadkin showing up here lately. Just in the last two weeks

a 4 station grinder, and then the combo of a disk and spindle sander .

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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I've also seen alot of Wadkin and that 30" disk with the oss only lasted a day or two it was a good price.

BTW this planer will eat a Ryobi and burp.

Found a pic of them putting one together at Wadkin's Green Lane works in the 40s

 

sc0000af53.jpg

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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2 day ARN haul horse trade. The Wadkin RM Over under is in the yard.

(Sorry boys I use a sissy 400HP tractor for loading.)

wadkinRM003.jpgwadkinRM004.jpg

At home to be taken care of, and placed in the Wadkin Temple!

wadkinRM014.jpgwadkinRM010.jpg

Skewed knife head.

wadkinRM006.jpg

Used a scale for scale:

wadkinRM007.jpg

Head has the removable plates for moulding.

wadkinRM009.jpg

One box of scary came with it.

wadkinRM012.jpg

And few other toys.

wadkinRM013.jpg 

jack

English machines

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Hey Jack, brief us on the logistics of restoring a massive machine like this. Floor space, shop space for all the parts in their differing states of restoration, and the challenges one might have while moving pieces around from location to location. This is amazing Jack, I am floored man. I will be looking for more updates if you'll do us the honor posting them in the future. But for now, I am really interested in how you handle this physically.

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Jack I'm always amazed at how good Wadkin machines look on the inside. That red paint that was used under the tables, in the gearboxes, etc. really holds up well. Here's a shot of the infeed on my RM.

ning-dsc00861-39527-19.jpg?width=721

Looks like you've got some work ahead of you, but it'll be well worth it.

-Arthur

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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John, this thing is big. It takes up about the space of 2 10" cabinet saws. A pump cart can move this so that's the best mobil  base for it. For moving it from location to location you need the services of a rigger.

(that's the name of the pros that do this type of work). You can do it your self like I did but I have a 7 ton trailer with drop axles with hydraulic dump, and drop ramps. Arthur has moved some crazy stuff and is a real pro. He's the one to tell you what it takes to move tonnage. In most case you don't need much, you can move a lot on pipe. Maybe Arthur will tell you all about a the 30,000 lb mill he moved this summer.

 

jack

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Arthur,

The red paint is something . I will make it pop when I jackife this baby. Here are some more pics that I think you will find interesting.

 

John, a grown man can not pick this motor up and I don't care how big you are.That's a tall boy can of beer for scale. I found this Wadkin motor with Wadkin pulley's the right size for the head on the machine. This never happens. And the good part is it was free, so I have the head motor.

I've also got the electrics out of Dave's RM so I have a starter for a 15hp motor, the PO's rig was a joke.

 

WadkinRMhead001.jpg?t=1323022085

 

WadkinRMhead013.jpg?t=1323022697

 

The head is missing a bolt for the clamshell and some of the bolts don't look Wadkin.

 

WadkinRMhead003.jpg?t=1323022355

 

This a Wadkin bolt.

 

WadkinRMhead004.jpg?t=1323022795

 

These are not but, they're there for balance.

 

WadkinRMhead005.jpg?t=1323022425

 

Just so you can get a sense of the size of the jointer I put a tall boy beer can on the table.

 

WadkinRMhead009.jpg?t=1323022552

 

Now Arthur may be the only one that will appreciate these next pics.

 

The rack pinon handle is different from my older 16" RD's. Its ARN with more webs.

It could be used as a dating tool. So I would think this machine was made after WW II,

when Britain had many aluminum foundries for the war effort.

 

WadkinRMhead010.jpg?t=1323022584

 

The Wadkin head tool and the canting table.

 

WadkinRMhead006.jpg?t=1323022470

 

Jointer table crank handle.

 

WadkinRMhead008.jpg?t=1323022838

 

Dirty papers. (manual)

 

WadkinRMhead011.jpg?t=1323022626

 

WadkinRMhead012.jpg?t=1323022922

 

Notice the 25 Cycles?

 

WadkinRMhead014.jpg?t=1323022758

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Jack,

 

I don't think all of my machines together weigh as much as this beautifull beast!

I'm looking forward to see how you Jackifie this one, I'm sure I'll pick up a few more tips along the way.

Glad to see you found a motor also.

 

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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I move mine around pretty frequently. I bolted 4x4's to the feet. I have a stubby pallet jack that fits inside the skids perfectly. If I have long stock to joint or face, I'll push it outside onto the pad in front of the shop and run it there. The footprint is huge. It is nearly as deep as it is wide. Without measuring I'd say about 49 sf of floor space required (for full accessibility). Here's a picture of the back of the machine with the motors.

 

ning-dsc00870-39523-37.jpg?width=721

 

Jack, I noticed you're missing the pineapple weight for the guard. Let me know if you want me to drop mine at the foundry and have one cast.

 

ning-dsc00864-39523-31.jpg?width=721

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Arthur,

 

Can you cast one in bronze for me? I would love that, just tell me what you need.

Opened the head this weekend and had to use a 4 foot pipe on the nuts. The PO was an idiot. One of the ways to tell if threads are stretched is to turn the nut over and see if it threads back on. I tried it and it does not thread on and binds ups. So I am going to change them all. I do not want bad bolts on this 6" head.

I'm looking for a source of flat knife head bolts in the east. or any source. I will try Wadkin, you never know.

I would a least like to know what the metal is.

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Jack, I'll take it over on my next trip to the foundry. It may take some time, but I'll get it done.

It's a shame about the head bolts. Especially when you consider that these knives can't really come out of the head. (no need to over-torque) What's really odd is that they obviously had the head wrench. If you use just that, it would be very difficult to overtighten.

 

 

-Arthur

 

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Happy New Year, boys hope you got what you want from Santa.

With my time off for the holidays I thought I would pull the head out of the Wadkin RM and work on the cutter block.


There was a stud and plate bolt missing in the head, and I did not like the looks of the others. The thing that got me the most was I needed a 48"cheater pipe to brake the nuts free of the heads, so they were way to tight.

There is an old saying about molding head knife bolts, if you turn the nut over and it wont thread back on the threads are stretched. Most are that way and so here is were I need help.

The forged steel plate type cutter-block is really a great head with its skewed knifes and is also able to take moulding knifes. I did get the tool(spanner wrench) for the head bolts that has a short handle.

So I would think 60 to 100 lbs. of torque is all that is needed on the nuts. Anyone care to comment?

Question, is there a source for the studs and nuts, and what is the grade of metal/thread etc.?
The ones in there now appear to be mild steel.

The plates are tapered, and so the studs lengths are long on one side and get shorter as you go across.
Any old Wadkin  Ex-Staff around here that can enlighten me on how the head was balanced?

I hope this will be a discussion on the old plate type cutter-block, and do not want it to turn into the safety of these old heads. I restore old Wadkin kit and use it .
 

Some pics here of the block with the missing bolt as I got the machine.

 

WadkinRMhead003.jpg

 

WadkinRMhead005.jpg

 

The spanner wrench.

 

WadkinRMhead007.jpg

 

Head removal.

 

wadkinhead001.jpg

 

wadkinhead002.jpg

 

wadkinhead003.jpg

 

Nice bearings on this one 2 RM 12 self aligning double rowed brass cage on the drive side,

with a 2308 SKF to the out board side.

 

wadkinhead004.jpg

 

Hand scraped bearing retainer cap.

 

wadkinhead008.jpg

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Got the head cleaned up and ready to store until I am ready to work the other parts. I wanted to clean the rust and look at the bearing any way. Here are some pics of the workings of the Wadkin plate/clam head

Here you can see that the cutter block is tapered on the side the jointer knives plates/clam go on.

 

rmhead001.jpg

 

The Wadkin head has keyed jacking/knife adjustment screws and you don't need the plates to hold the knives from slipping like the Oliver head. The stud hole is through the head and the stud bottom on a small rim on the top edge.

 

rmhead002.jpg

 

A set of Wadkin spent knives(no life left) with the key slot at the back on the blade. Only half of the knives are useful in this design. The blades are about 1 1/2" wide when new. You are still able to get these from Wadkin.

 

rmhead003.jpg

 

I have found regular knives placed in front of the key screw. this is very dangerous with this type head.

 

rmhead004.jpg

 

You have a 12" section for moulding knives in the jointer head and it does not upset the straight knives.

 

rmhead005.jpg

 

The hard wood side of the head is thinner than the softwood side of the head by about 5/8" this is what skews the knife.

 

rmhead006.jpg

 

rmhead007.jpg

 

rmhead009.jpg

 

Hope you enjoyed the view of the Wadkin Plate type head.

 

jack

 

English machines

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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