Rust Removal By Electrolysis

[Ken Rasmussen]

Larry,

I don't recall the other method you are referring to, and I am unable to locate anything in a PM.

Refresh my ever failing memory please

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by Larry Buskirk

[Larry Buskirk]

Randy,

 

It was in for a total of about eight hours, I scrubbed and rinsed both the casting and sacrificial plates at about four hours.

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by Larry Buskirk

[Larry Buskirk]

Ken,

I believe you mentioned using a crock pot, but I don't remember what you were using in it for brew.

 

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by Larry Buskirk

[Ken Rasmussen]

Larry,

I used the crock pot with water and some dish soap, just a few drops.

It did a real nice job of removing paint. I would run it on low for non ferrous metals.

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by Larry Buskirk

[steven newman]

How well does this work on saw blades, since I now have a few to de-rust?

 

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by Larry Buskirk

[Larry Buskirk]

Thanks Ken,

 

I knew it was something simple, I just couldn't remember what.

I'll give it a try, as it is just paint that I want to remove.

 

 

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by Larry Buskirk

[Larry Buskirk]

Steve,

 

It should work real well, just remove the handles. It will take some time but does a nice job.

Edited November 10, 2018 by Larry Buskirk

[Larry Buskirk]

"Back From The Archives"

 

Another tip/trick that is useful for more than just the restoration of our old machines.

[Grandpadave52]

3 hours ago, Larry Buskirk said:

 Another tip/trick that is useful for more than just the restoration of our old machines.

I've never tried this method but have considered it in the past especially for old plane and some saw blades. I've had good luck with cast iron, steel & gray iron parts with the Evap-O-Rust...mixed on non-plated steels. It also does a good job on brass, aluminum and other non-ferrous metals It is non-toxic, bio-degradable, does not harm painted surfaces or most plastics and leaves a protective film on surfaces for ~6 mo if allowed to dry. It's reusable too as long as you keep the gunk removed....BUT, it's pretty pricey at $20+/gal.  I've only used it on small parts, tools etc. thus far mainly do to cost.

 

I've also used plain 'ole white vinegar with fair to good results depending on the circumstances. $1/gal still can get pricey when needed in large quantities though. Flash rust can be an issue with cast iron and steel. But it too is reusable if you keep the sludge removed.

 

The electrolysis is thorough for sure, but parts are subject to immediate flash rust without some preservation or priming. A bit messier IMO, but probably because the ability to have larger, much lower cost solution quantities. Extra care is needed due to fumes and of course electricity. Having small kids and curious animals (basically the same) with the fumes and electricity make me somewhat apprehensive without being able to monitor continuously. Still on my round-tuit list...need to obtain an "old school" small battery charger but those are fairly easy to come by during the summer months.

 

I've read on-line and watched various You-Tube videos on others approaches and experiences but your Tutorial and results are pretty straight forward and honest about your experiences.

 

Is your approach a one-and-done with the solution mix or do you re-use until??? If reuse, do you boost old solution with additional Borax? Boost ratio? What method(s) do you use for disposal of old solution? Are parts suspended in solution, resting on a  platform of some sort keeping them off the bottom of the "tank" or just lay loose on tank bottom? Any issues with multiple parts touching or dissimilar metals (e.g. cast, steel covers...) while in the "tank?"

 

Thanks Larry.

Edited November 11, 2018 by Grandpadave52

[Larry Buskirk]

Dave,

I've never tried the Evap-O-Rust due to the cost, but now that I know that it works well for non-ferrous metals I'll have to give it a try. Thanks for that info.

I have tried the white vinegar (while the wife didn't see me swiping it …... Oh well,I just got caught!) with varying degrees of success.

 

I now keep the electrolysis setup in one of those Rubbermaid covered boxes made for storing things on your deck. I just prop the lid up for ventilation, and to run the cord inside. That way if it rains it's protected from the weather.

I did have the part being cleaned come in contact with the sacrificial anode when one of the sacrificial anodes tipped over once and the battery exploded.   We thought someone threw an M 80 it was that loud.

So that wouldn't happen again I modified the setup as below. I've also got PVC pieces made for going the long way in the tank.

 

I suspend the part being cleaned from a 1x2 set across the tank so it can't slide around.

 

I do reuse the mix it lasts for quite a while. If I notice that it isn't getting the normal reaction I do add a little more washing soda to the mix to as you said, usually about another tablespoon per 5 gallons of mix. The above container will hold about 10 gallons of mix while still allowing room for the part/parts being cleaned. You can do more than one part at a time by tying the parts together with wire. I've (so far) had no bad reactions between steel, and cast iron. I keep the parts off of the bottom to keep them out of the sludge that accumulates in the solution (paint/rust/grease etc.) It tends to interfere with the process.

 

Disposal of the old solution is simply a matter of letting the solution settle to the bottom of the tank after removing everything, then draining off the solution until just above the sludge layer. At that point I remove the sludge layer and let it dry out some, then store it in empty paint cans. I then turn that in at the county recycle center when they have their hazardous waste disposal.

(The old paint etc. more than likely contains lead due to the age of the parts that I run through the process.)

 

I think/hope I just answered all of your questions  I've kept scrolling up/down trying to make sure. 

 

[Grandpadave52]

Thanks Larry...great information. Thanks for the tips and picture of your set-up. That would be more than large enough for a newbie to venture into this realm doing planes, saws and a couple of 10 hp Kohler blocks.

I don't have any major projects in the immediate future but do have a couple of Craftsman 10" saw tables and a set of extensions I'd like to do eventually. Now, just need a long stretch of sunny, warm days (60's would be great) like we should have had this fall and no other projects to side-track me.

[Larry Buskirk]

50 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Thanks Larry...great information. Thanks for the tips and picture of your set-up. That would be more than large enough for a newbie to venture into this realm doing planes, saws and a couple of 10 hp Kohler blocks.

I don't have any major projects in the immediate future but do have a couple of Craftsman 10" saw tables and a set of extensions I'd like to do eventually. Now, just need a long stretch of sunny, warm days (60's would be great) like we should have had this fall and no other projects to side-track me.

Dave, I forgot to mention that I also added a fuse (automotive style) into the circuit just in case something should occur.

I've also seen where others have used a 12-24 Volt DC power supply rated at around 10 Amps for their setups.

We've also been stuck in that mostly having that early spring/late fall/winter weather. Gets to be kind of depressing.

I still haven't used it yet but I did get another plastic tub for those larger items. Here's a photo of it.

This one will fit an automobile engine if need be, I really doubt that I'll ever do one in it.

Never know though, I might get around to redoing that 56 Chrysler 354 cubic inch Hemi for my 46 Dodge Pick-Up someday.(Sorry no photos it's stored over in another buddies barn)

I can hear "Tim The Toolman Taylor" now.. "More Power".. "Arrrrrr"

Edited November 11, 2018 by Larry Buskirk

[Cal]

Pic of that pickup please!  Stored at another buddies barn won't work... if he is your buddy, then you get over there occasionally, right?

 

I used this method a few years back to clean up some old tool boxes that were all in various states of neglect.  I did not use a battery, though, just hooked the battery charger directly up to it.  That was how I was shown to do it.  Anyhow, the process worked great and all the boxes were saved.  One long one I had to do in two stages because it was so long.  I was using a 30 gal. plastic trash can for the job.

I recently saved another old tool box and since it was only the one I experimented with a rust converter product I got at the auto supply.  I did not really like the results I got with that as it left a pretty thick layer of "converted rust" that you just painted over.

[Larry Buskirk]

Cal,

I'll have to get over there to see if I can even get to it.

He rents out storage space for boats, RV's, and other's old toys.

Mine is all the way in a back corner behind everything else. It's a comedy of errors in the spring when everyone wants to get their toys out.

The old truck is pretty rough, but I intend to do  it justice. I'll be doing it up "Street Rod Sleeper" style.

The big tank will probably be of use redoing it. Most of the body parts should fit into the tank.

It's been quite a few years since I've done any body work, so I'm sure it will be a slow process.

I used to work at C.A.R.S. (Custom Auto Restoration Service) in Bristol, WI. Dean closed the business about 15 years ago.Him, and his wife moved down south to get away from the cold. We did top chops and other custom work along with restorations. 

That was between layoffs at the AMC/Chrysler plant in Kenosha, WI. The plant is now a 92 acre field in the middle of the city.

I won't be chopping the top on it, I want it to appear stock, but with a "Surprise" under the hood. 

I found the HEMI at one of the swap meets/car shows at Iola, WI. about 10 years ago. The seller had a cardboard sign in the back window of his truck cap. I asked him about it and he said that he didn't bring it with him, but asked if I knew where Pleasant Prairie in Kenosha Co. was.  Go figure! It was complete with the push button automatic tranny! He said it has about 48K miles on it.

The truck was my 5th anniversary present from my wife, she got a pair of diamond earrings from me.

We celebrated are 35th last Friday.  All of the old "group" said we wouldn't last a year, we're the only one's left still together.

Edited November 11, 2018 by Larry Buskirk

[Grandpadave52]

9 hours ago, Larry Buskirk said:

Never know though, I might get around to redoing that 56 Chrysler 354 cubic inch Hemi for my 46 Dodge Pick-Up someday.

You been holding out on us gear-heads...gotta' have pics to drool over

1 hour ago, Cal said:

Pic of that pickup please

Pretty, pretty please with sugar on top.

[schnewj]

@Grandpadave52

 

Gramps, if you want to do smaller parts here is a set-up that I use. I can actually do a full size hand plane body but I have to flip it over (do one half and then the other)

 

 

.

 

A (HD) five gallon bucket, two ground clamps, a section of ground rod, and for anodes I use re-bar. When not in use I slip the ground rod out of the top, and place it and the charger into the bucket. The lid goes on and it stores neatly. Make sure you use WASHING SODA, which is found in the cleaning/laundry section.

 

Depending on the condition I may start out at 10 amps and then lower to 2 amps. Depending on what you are de-rusting if there is nothing dangerous, like lead, you can dump the water out on the ground. The Iron Oxides are great for the plants.

[Larry Buskirk]

@schnewj

 

Nice small setup you have there, I like the way that you mounted the rebar anode rods.

I agree with the use of the Washing Soda, I've seen where others have used Borax, but found it to not be as effective as the Washing Soda. Some others have said they've had better results with the Borax, but I didn't, I used some of the wife's when I made up a small batch once. It just didn't seem to work as well. I'm not sure if has something to do with the minerals in your water or what?

 

@Grandpadave52, & @Cal,

 

I called Mark where my 46 Dodge is stored, and asked him if he thought it was possible for me to get at my truck. His reply was "You've got to be kidding  you know where it's at, the boats, RV's, and other cars are parked about 6" apart. You might fit between them, but I don't see how you could possibly take any pictures" He also said, " There's an RV parked along side of it, & Jim's 26' Pontoon Boat backed right in front of it"

He moves things around with a hitch mounted to the bucket on his tractor to get them as close together as possible.

So I guess that idea's going to have to wait. My truck is in the corner with 2 walls to the other 2 sides.

[Stick486]

take pics from atop the RV and boat...

[Larry Buskirk]

13 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

take pics from atop the RV and boat...

You wouldn't believe how it's buried.  

I don't know how I could get the stuff that's stacked on/in/around it out of the way.

I've got spare fenders, a back seat from a later Chrysler product, parts in boxes that I've collected over the years for it, and it's been kind of a catch all for other things that Mark stacked on/around it to make room for the other's things.

[Grandpadave52]

2 hours ago, Larry Buskirk said:

My truck is in the corner with 2 walls to the other 2 sides.

Outside walls on a metal building? Got a reciprocating saw & metal blades? Create your own access panels.