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Shopsmith lathe setup, Part 3

FlGatorwood

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One headache to me is adjusting the movement of the tool rest in and out.  There are newer screws that use a lever.  At the moment, I cannot find them.  But, this is what we SSer's do.  

 

image.png.6dc6a309bb98b4d74644f9288f50f96a.png

 

It cannot be overemphasized, to make these adjustments, please turn off the machine.  After making your adjustments, spin your wood by hand to ensure that there is sufficient clearance between the turning stock and the tool rest.  Also, ensure you tighten the height adjustment sufficiently to reduce the opportunity of the tool rest dropping or rotating.  

 

Now that you have all the adjustments made, there is one pic I need to show that you can use to drill pen blanks.  This is a morse #2 taper and it is already adjusted for turning.  So, it is remove the live center and insert this tool.  We are talking seconds here.  Use your pen jaws on your chuck and start drilling by advancing the quill.  Please don't rush the drilling process.  That tailstock piece can break and then you are down again.  

 

image.png.8b47f44896c668cd21718c08ba8cdaea.png

 

We are now ready to turn.  Let's get a piece of pear and mark the centers.  Two ways to do it. 

 

image.png.b145b7370d085ee904e154cc5a1de78e.png

 

These are about $10 almost anywhere.  Put a piece of wood in the corner and mark the diagonal line.  Move the template to another corner where the intersection is perpendicular and draw again.  You may be off by 1/8" but unless your work is critical, this will do most times.  Remember to mark the other end. 

 

image.png.63c6e846dded78e43d5cefb013b68459.png

 

And, if you don't have one of the little center finders, this old tried and true method will suffice.  

 

image.png.179256079668bd2b23a0193f7a4995fa.png

 

Please folks, don't drive this drive spur into your wood.  Making a dimple for your drill is ok and you want the whole to accept the complete point so that the spurs engage the wood.  

 

One thing I forgot to mention, the tool rest for the shopsmith is made of aluminum.  If it get a ding in it or is not smooth, set it up and get a file.  Work it down smooth again as the dimples in the tool rest transfer to dents in the wood that you don't want.  Just take a file and work it back to smooth.  Alright, we are ready to turn.

 

We have inventoried our parts, made all the setup adjustments, verified that all is in sync and properly aligned.  We have even chosen a piece of stock and mounted it.  I am going to use a traditional HSS roughing gouge and then make my first attempt to use a carbide rougher from EWT.  

 

 

I am close to riding the bevel.  The machine is bouncing due to out of balance stock.  But, if you get a chance to see how smooth it is becoming, you can appreciate the traditional tools.  Also, you can see the live center turning.  As I try to use the EWT rougher, you can see I am still trying to ride the bevel.  It is a habit and I will adjust.  I need to bring up the back end of the handle.  

 

Anyone who has a question, please feel free to post or PM me.  I will be happy to work out something that will make us both happy.  Please ask away.  

 

Artie, I tried to keep you in mind as I saw your post where you recieved your EWT tools.



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What I referred to as the banjo is pictured here on the Shopsmith website.  This is very expensive to me and it works on the systems with 510, 520 and the updated Mk 7 systems.  

 

https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/l_univlathetoolrest.htm

 

Here is a link to the upgraded tool rest arms and screws on Shopsmith.  I know what I want for Christmas.  LOL

 

https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/l_toolrestupgrade.htm

 

Edited by FlGatorwood

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