Now that the tailstock is installed and aligned, it is doubtful that you will ever have to do this again for many years. Only the tail stock has to be adjusted to the headstock. Now, we have options of tools to look at.
Whereas the previous pictures showed a dead center, this is live center. This has bearings in it and the tip and head spin. I sometimes put oil in the back while the tip is down. I hope the oil runs in. These are found on various woodworking sites. All you need to know is morse tape #2.
There are 2 sizes of faceplates from Shopsmith. This small one is about $25 each and I think the 6" is about $35 each. But, shop around to see if you can save money. Sometimes, if you are a subscriber to Shopsmith emails, you can get these on sail. Also, while looking at woodworking sites, just ensure it is a 5/8" bore with a set screw. You may find a better deal. Or look for a used one. If the screw holes and set screw hole are in good shape, you may find a bargain.
Just a quick check to see how the alignment looks.
Here's Chucky with pen jaws installed. I have one pen mandrel that fits inside these pen jaws. I did not show, but this unit also come with a worm screw. My Chucky needs a good cleaning and lubing.
One detail that must be mentioned on Chucky is the adapter. Shopsmith automatically includes it when you purchase from them, but you can get a much better bargain if you purchase it from Amazon or some other places if you purchase both at the same time to get the free shipping. The adapter is a 1 X 8 tpi so that most any chuck will work on your shopsmith as long as you have this adapter. For this demonstration, I could not get it off to show to you, but here is a link.
Any chuck that will work on this adapter will work on your Shopsmith. Here is mine installed.
Also, various jaws can be had for the Nova G3 chuck. They are easily found on various websites.
I just remembered, that even the EWT chucks will fit on the adapter.
Now, a comment or two about the tool rest. The newer tool rests with the banjo are much easier to use, but I have adapted and I do work with this. If you don't have the banjo (a foot that sits in the middle of this table holder you see above) the following applies.
This is something I did with a Sharpie. The CL is for the center line. If you ever question that the drive spur and live center are out of align, you can set to this mark and eyeball to see if the two spurs are close enough. While holding it here, you can make any necessary adjustments, but that is going to be rare. I have a couple lines above the CL at about 1/16" apart. It looks like more, but this helps me to quickly reference how high or low I want my tool rest.
This is normally where I start depending on the gouge and the size of the stock being turned.