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Guys, I want to make a flip cart for a couple heavy tools and was hoping to get some input on how to make a strong three way corner joint for these types of carts using 2x material. Was thinking something like this but based on  the correct dimensions. 

 Corner_Connections_12A-Small.jpg

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looks plenty strong.  and complicated.

 

for my workbenches, i just butted the 2x4s at the corner, and then had a full 4x4 inside of those, all screwed with 3" or 3-1/2" long deck screws, and some wood glue too.  a 3x4" plywood top goes on top.  the 4x4 carries all the weight down to the floor (mine via some casters).  so, yes, the weight on the 2x4s is transferred to the 4x4 via the screws.  but how much weight are we talking about?  i've stood on mine when i was 300+, flipped them on their sides for moving in my truck (and washing), and they still carry on.

 

but that pic is a neater design.  i'm lazy and confident that the screws will carry the load.  i think i have 6 per corner into the 4x4 (3 per 2x4).  

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tongue, grove and miter the the apron's butt joint...

 

5a30581f5bac5_CORNERJOINTS.jpg.995d5ff85fbea5d3a524f07508743374.jpg

 

 

 

or lock miter it...

 

5a30581813f71_LOCKMITER.jpg.e68aa9da6e59c37e3e0623fa95460bab.jpg

 

 

or rebate rabbet it...

my preference...

 

5a305823dfb0f_REBATEDRABBET.jpg.f683e794dd5907e665b6c6d0fc04385e.jpg

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1 hour ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

How about now?

Corner_Connections_12A-Small.jpg

You figured this one out, thats a good job designing this table. You could put a Sherman tank on one side and a double plated armor truck on the other=both fully loaded. When you are finished post a picture.

Good job

 

Preston

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13 hours ago, Stick486 said:

tongue, grove and miter the the apron's butt joint...

 

5a30581f5bac5_CORNERJOINTS.jpg.995d5ff85fbea5d3a524f07508743374.jpg

 

 

 

or lock miter it...

 

5a30581813f71_LOCKMITER.jpg.e68aa9da6e59c37e3e0623fa95460bab.jpg

 

 

or rebate rabbet it...

my preference...

 

5a305823dfb0f_REBATEDRABBET.jpg.f683e794dd5907e665b6c6d0fc04385e.jpg

Stick buddy you are missing the third member going up to create the box frame.

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5 minutes ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

Stick buddy you are missing the third member going up to create the box frame.

 

no I'm not...

those joints are for the apron corners...

you supply the third member as you show in your original image...

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There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that the joint you envision is plenty strong...might even be fun to do. BTW, the first graphic showed up for me...a little strange since I usually am the one who can't see the links.

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I got "into" the connection geometry when I was building a gazebo.  I wanted to use a lot of timber joints.  What I found is that 2x4 isn't 12x24.  When you get into smaller thicknesses (probably 4x or smaller), the wood acts differently.  So, I think the second joint (M&T) would be better.  Another thing:  square edges are weaker than rounded ones.  You might consider loose tenons with round edges on tenons and mortises.

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38 minutes ago, PeteM said:

 So, I think the second joint (M&T) would be better. 

Which one are you referencing here Pete? I have a really nice jig I made to do loose tenons which I have just for another large table build and it was very handy.

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2 hours ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

Which one are you referencing here Pete? I have a really nice jig I made to do loose tenons which I have just for another large table build and it was very handy.

Sorry, the last one you proposed, M&T, brown and green colors!

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For the M&T proposal please but a ledge on the post that can carry the load of the member putting all the load thru the Tenon in shear is not advised.  Your original idea has plenty of support and the screws should only be holding it together.  They may carry some shear but the wood to wood contact will quickly take over that load.  Go with what your originally concieved.

That said it could be simpler it all depends on the weight you are going to support and where it's center of gravity is.

 

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5a32ae5475ead_testfitlarge.JPG.f9f56796a418d2f8886c805ed46758c3.JPG

Mine, for tables....but, there is  something else added..

5a32aee040c25_cornerblocks.JPG.a90402f223d705b9e2d61891c22691b6.JPG

Glue and screws.    Holds the corner square.  

5a32af42ecdca_backcorner.JPG.ba3b32a04ef8d5f409bdef6847d0dac8.JPG

Or, rotate the corner block 90 degrees, and add a screw through and into the leg. 

 

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Could offset the tongue on the 3 1/2" side to be flush maybe even make it a thru tenon to pin it (overkill probably but would look good)and make the tenon on the 1 1/2" side to be about 2 1/4" long

image.png.ec54363ba74e9db5d81aab7103aa1f0f.png?????

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