pricing a used table saw

[CharlieL]

To confuse the situation a little more, I think some 34-444's had two capacitor motors, the saw I have came with a single capacitor motor.

Edited September 17, 2017 by CharlieL

[kmealy]

Here's the Delta saw.   Even though we  haven't used it much, the user-modified dust port is packed with sawdust.   A collector would be mandatory because we usually fill up two garbage cans in a day's worth of making parts.

 

[Stick486]

the motor isn't aligned....

pulleys won't wear well

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

That's one of the good ones, though that fence gets mixed reviews.

[CharlieL]

9 hours ago, kmealy said:

Here's the Delta saw.   Even though we  haven't used it much, the user-modified dust port is packed with sawdust.   A collector would be mandatory because we usually fill up two garbage cans in a day's worth of making parts.

 

 I'm not sure if you have noticed, but I have dust collection figured out for that saw in a user friendly manner. I do have a couple sized hoods made up for under the saw, and I have the open back issue solved as well.

[kmealy]

1 hour ago, CharlieL said:

 I'm not sure if you have noticed, but I have dust collection figured out for that saw in a user friendly manner. I do have a couple sized hoods made up for under the saw, and I have the open back issue solved as well.

I'd like to see that.   The prior owner of the saw was a very good craftsman.   There's a hood and 4" ductwork underneath, but it's now buried in sawdust.   I don't know that we will very often cut bevels, so I was thinking just some shields around the back, maybe heavy plastic.

 

Stick -- I'll check the alignment -- could just be the camera angle, though.   Thanks for the heads-up.

[CharlieL]

The dust hood funnels the dust to the port, directs the dc hose out from under the saw without a bend, and it's in a easier location to hook the hose up too or remove. I blocked the gap between the cabinet and the cast iron top with foam strips, and added some sheet metal blocking inside the cabinet, now the air needed to supply the DC comes in from the partially open back, and reduces the chances of floating dust escaping out. It took me quite awhile to figure it all out, and I've been using it for several years. 

Edited September 18, 2017 by CharlieL

[kmealy]

Thanks, Charlie.   That looks real similar to what's on the Delta, except it runs out to the right side.

 

Heard back on the Craftsman.  Model # 152.221240   (I've heard first 3 digits indicate OEM?)

 

[CharlieL]

35 minutes ago, kmealy said:

Thanks, Charlie.   That looks real similar to what's on the Delta, except it runs out to the right side.

 

Heard back on the Craftsman.  Model # 152.221240   (I've heard first 3 digits indicate OEM?)

 

 

Thats interesting, I would say that someone added that dust hood. PSI and I had an arrangement going for a short period, maybe it came from them. And speaking of, I just sold a table saw dust hood to a local guy about 10 minutes ago. As far as the Craftsman saw, the number you show confirms with the picture you show, looks like the same saw and fence. The model number I believe you are correct about the first three digits, I'm guessing that it was made by Steel City.

Edited September 18, 2017 by CharlieL

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

To cover the back I just used hardboard. 2 pieces to straddle the brackets/belt, and I used one sheet metal screw on each side to hold them in place. A better choice would have been rare earth magnets. The 152 in the C'Man model number indicates it was made by Orion International (same outfit as Steel City).

Edited September 18, 2017 by Fred W. Hargis Jr

[CharlieL]

On 9/18/2017 at 2:50 PM, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

To cover the back I just used hardboard. 2 pieces to straddle the brackets/belt, and I used one sheet metal screw on each side to hold them in place. A better choice would have been rare earth magnets. 

The problem with that solution is if you forget to remove the panels before tilting the blade you run the risk of binding it up and possibly throwing the blade out of alignment. 

Edited September 20, 2017 by CharlieL

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

That is absolutely true (forgetting to remove them for bevel cuts). I did that so many times I printed a bright yellow label and put it on the fence rail; it said "remove panels before tilting blade". Eventually, I got to the point where I just built a box to enclose the entire motor assembly and it was hanging on the outfeed table. Wood magazine published that in one of their idea shop, so i copied it. That's not perfect either, since it means you pretty much have to leave the outfeed table in place.

[Grandpadave52]

36 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

I did that so many times I printed a bright yellow label and put it on the fence rail; it said "remove panels before tilting blade".

I would need another label that reads "Don't forget to read the other label before tilting the blade!"

[CharlieL]

As far as the open back of the saw area, all you really need to block is the backside of the saw blade, where the blade can throw some dust out the back of the cabinet. The remaining dust thats floating around the inside of the cabinet the dust collector will get. 

Edited September 20, 2017 by CharlieL

[Dadio]

On 9/19/2017 at 9:23 AM, CharlieL said:

The problem with that solution is if you forget to remove the panels before tilting the blade you run the risk of binding it up and possibly throwing the blade out of alignment. 

I did that on my old Craftsman contractors saw with the motor out the back. Only I made it in 2 pieces and the LH one (looking at the back of the saw) I made to slide out of the way to tilt.

Herb