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I am considering Trex or one of it's clones, mostly for the non slip surface. I'll have to look at what Menards has tomorrow. Will Trex span 16"? I kinda thought it needed supports every 12" or so.

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5 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

I am considering Trex or one of it's clones, mostly for the non slip surface. I'll have to look at what Menards has tomorrow. Will Trex span 16"? I kinda thought it needed supports every 12" or so.

That's true, Fred. Non slip tape would work. You can get a roll for around $10. 

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I thought the full thickness (1") Trex was approved for 16" spans...can't speak for Clone brands...I did a couple quick searches this AM and some general sites still recommend 12" span width for Decks.

The commercial accounts counter at Menard's SHOULD be able verify requirements but one never knows.:(

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Trex deck boards will sag noticeably on spans larger than 12". Especially in hot weather with direct sun. Save yourself the hassle and stick with wood. Cheaper, too. PT would be my choice for the treads. 

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Back in 1986 I ordered some recycled plastic 2x6's from a place in Ohio. Only place at the time I could find it.

Freight was about what the 2x6's cost but to this day they are still looking like the day I installed them. I  used them for all the seating areas on a mini golf course  in the hot sun of west Texas... I had some left and used them on the porch of wifes glass shop here where we live now and they still look like new.

   I put the support under them at 16" centers and before I secured them I realized I should add boards in the middle of the 16. Sagging is the only fault to consider.5a1d62c9a9bfe_storagetrailer003.JPG.e1c8b63b3d27675be8eb4f34bbf6cf40.JPG

   I had these for 30 plus years before I finally found a use for the last bunch I ordered in 1986. Most of the time they were laying on a concrete driveway in the sun.

  Fred this is the only way to go for outside use. 

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I asked at out counter this morning, and they said 12"....but like Dave said one never knows. I went with 5/4 treated deck boards, but they were out of the non slip stuff. I'll have to look elsewhere for that. I'd like to have some of that stuff Jesse has, but hard telling where I would find it.

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2 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

I asked at out counter this morning, and they said 12"....but like Dave said one never knows. I went with 5/4 treated deck boards, but they were out of the non slip stuff. I'll have to look elsewhere for that. I'd like to have some of that stuff Jesse has, but hard telling where I would find it.

Amazon has a selection of different width rolls of non skid tape.

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seal the deck and add ''sand'' to the sealer... (no slip additive)...

trex would be the last stuff on the planet that I would use...

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Fred I have no idea even the town in Ohio but they do measure full 2"x 6" and all colors and only in 12 foot lengths. He asked what color do I want and  I said for a mini golf as much wild color as you got so just send some of every color.

And I don't believe any has faded at all..

   If they are still in business they might not be that hard to find but I do believe the fad of recycling has gone by by.

  Now after trying to find the name of the place in Ohio I find I missed the date of ordering the recycled plastic, Only a few years though for it was in 93 or 94 the golf course  got built and opened  so it was in early 94 when bought...

Edited by Smallpatch

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Fred I just now googled  recycled plastic 2x4"s in Ohio , and got a few sites. They were 1 dollar a foot back then and it cost me 1 dollar a foot  shipping.  Maybe higher because of the length?

Edited by Smallpatch

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Fred that white pine should be water proofed or use treated pine.

At the foot it looks like it is below grade.  

What is the foot anchored too?

I normally use a stringer across the bottom the holds everything square.

 

 

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On 11/28/2017 at 7:02 AM, Gene Howe said:

That's true, Fred. Non slip tape would work. You can get a roll for around $10. 

I would only use the non-skid tape as a last resort. I am not a fan! The same goes for non-skid paints.

 

We used non-skid adhesive tape everywhere; stair treads, metal ladder rungs, platforms...all over. It is great when you first apply it, then the adhesive starts to give and the edges curl up. I had more then one employee trip over the stuff. It became a constant R&R nightmare.

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Michael, It's all treated and the foot is below grade. They aren't attached to anything at the bottom, the stringers sit on 4" cap blocks. The entire pit was filled with limestone just before I put the stair treads on it. I put the stretchers across the stringers based on your suggestion, but there was anything under the foot (except those 3 cap blocks) to anchor to.

Edited by Fred W. Hargis Jr

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1 hour ago, schnewj said:

I would only use the non-skid tape as a last resort. I am not a fan! The same goes for non-skid paints.

 

We used non-skid adhesive tape everywhere; stair treads, metal ladder rungs, platforms...all over. It is great when you first apply it, then the adhesive starts to give and the edges curl up. I had more then one employee trip over the stuff. It became a constant R&R nightmare.

That's true. Time for the staple gun....on wood, anyway. ;)

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What I have used for non-skid was paint, then while still wet, drop some ground up nut shells onto. When paint is dry, apply a few more coats. I used this on the platform my dog rode on on the back of the 4 wheeler. Not heavy traffic like stairs, but worked well there.

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