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MT Stringer

Putting the CNC to work!

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I will post some pictures later after I get the film developed! :)

 

Got the CNC working today. I am cutting dadoes and shelf pin holes for the ten cabinet sides that I am building. These are the wall cabinets 39 inches tall. I have to flip the pieces once end for end because I don't have the cutting capacity to do it in one pass. If they were 37 inches, or shorter, that would be perfect. I could lay them on the x axis and make the cuts in one pass.

 

So, I start the cut, then go inside the house (only a few steps away), and watch a little drag racing or other things on the computer. When I hear the router shut down, I go out and flip the piece and run the file again. The sides are identical with the dadoes cut 2 inches from each end. Then half of the shelf pins are drilled starting 8 inches above where the shelf bottom (or top) will be. So I end up with identical pieces that can actually be flipped if needed, but I won't do that. I have the top of each piece marked.

 

Note: The work pieces are already cut to final width and length, and clamped to the bed of the CNC with the long end on the Y axis. My file cuts the dado and half of the shelf pins (1 1/4 inches apart). After flipping the work piece and cutting the remaining half, I have one side that is complete.

 

OOPS!, I just heard it shut down. Gotta go. Only two more sides left and I will be through. Tough job, but somebody's got to do it!

 

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How long does it take you to set up the file to do that? Just curious

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33 minutes ago, Chips N Dust said:

How long does it take you to set up the file to do that? Just curious

 

Since I am still a beginner with a new machine and new to me software, it took a while. I would work on it, preview the result, then make some changes and run the preview. I don't have any idea time wise, but the bottom line is it worked perfect the first try, which was a trial run.

 

Sorry for the wishy-washy answer. But, I already have the file set up to cut the larger bottom side pieces! They will fit with the 31 inch long side across the x axis, so only one pass to cut the dadoes and shelf pin holes. I really only need shelf pin holes in four pieces. The rest of the bottom cabinets will have drawers. Why 31 inch tall sides, you might ask? I will be putting down a 3 1/2 inch tall ladder frame and leveling it first. The boxes will sit on top of it.

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Here are a  few pictures.

They look good to me. I used a 1/4 inch solid carbide spiral downcut bit. It cut clean dadoes and shelf pin holes. Some sawdust did get compacted in the holes but that's no problem. Just bang on the back side and vacuum it out.

 

More later.

 

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Our local hardwood supplier has been selling baltic birch one or both sides finished, is this that type of BB?

I love your style, watch the drag races, while technology is cranking away! Now, how do we get that to work for other life chores? :D

Looks great MT, thanks for sharing!

Hope ya'll forgive my lack of input in the CNC forum, it's out of my league, I look in a bunch, and learn and view the images. Each time I do look in, I can envision a spot in my shop for a CNC, may just be a matter of time, budget availability.

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1 hour ago, John Morris said:

 Each time I do look in, I can envision a spot in my shop for a CNC, may just be a matter of time, budget availability.

 

I have been thinking about 1 for a few years now myself. That is why I have been asking questions to get more knowledgeable about them and the processes 

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Those cabinets look really AWESOME!

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4 hours ago, beltramidave said:

Nice work!  Love the look of knotty alder.  Did you make the door panels on your cnc?

Dave

No sir. Ordered them from Evans in Brenham, Tx.

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4 hours ago, Dadio said:

Did they come premachined for EURO hinges,Mike? Fantastic job, can't go wrong with a helper....installer like that.

Herb

No sir. Mikey does the  machining on his drill press . :)

 

I could have ordered them with the holes bored but I prefer to do it myself.

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Those holes are also something you could have done on your CNC;)

 

We often use our small CNCs to pocket cut holes in student projects when we don't the right diameter bit to do the job. Mostly large holes where the right bit would be very expensive and only needed for this one job. 

 

4D

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It is much faster for me to drill them my self. I have the 35mm Forstner bit, and Kreg flip stop stop blocks. It is a simple set up and thanks to a set up template, I can cut them fairly quickly with precision.

 

Then there are the two holes for the screws. I use a vix bit to predrill pilot holes, then drive the screws home.

 

Saying all that, my main concern of having the cabinet company drill the holes, is to make sure they are drilled on the correct side. It is not really a problem with shaker style doors but if the doors have a profile on the top, then the correct orientation is a must.

 

 

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Edited by MT Stringer (see edit history)

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I agree that if you have the right drill bit then drilling them will be faster.   Same is true for many operations that could be done using a CNC.   

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Y'all really did a nice job, Mike!  And my compliments to your boss, er, helper... ;)

 

David

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Here is a sneak peek at the new stuff going in to the kitchen remodel. I don't want to sound  like I am bragging, but I managed to use the CNC to drill shelf pin holes in the two center stiles of the face frames on the large cabinets...and they line up perfectly with the end pieces! Got lucky there.

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Edited by MT Stringer (see edit history)

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Looks like prefinished plywood.   I personally really appreciate that some company came up with that stuff.  I bought a sheet to use for some jigs I designed, and it was less expensive than a sheet of the same quality ply unfinished.  Perhaps the local market has yet to find out about it.   First sheet came damaged, and so they re-ordered it and had it packed between two other sheets.  The yard manager gave me all three sheets for the price of one. 

 

4D

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