Fred Wilson Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 So there I was, cutting away on one of Susan Landry's patterns and contemplating my techniques. (I usually contemplate something whilst I cut) This project has some rather sharp inside corners throughout the. Corners like " < " with inside angles less than 10 degrees. As i was contemplating it occurred to me that I didn't have to think too hard when I was cutting them. And then a light bulb turned on and I wondered how sharp the end of that corner would be and how did my scrolling buddies cut their sharp inside corners. Species of wood? Size of blade? Skill? Luck? Experience? Type of blade? Sharpness of blade? Etc? Let me know what y'all think about my contemplations regarding sharpness of that 5 degree angle inside cut. I'll put my revelations out there in a couple of days. Promise John Morris and lew 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Morris Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 Man, thanks Fred for coming on in and raising your head above that water level of busy life! I miss ya ol friend!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Brink Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 If I can I'll cut to the corner and make a u turn into the waste side. I'll then back into the corner and go from there. clear as "mud" right? John Morris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Wilson Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 No, Harry, I understand ur way. That's the way I go for those. As for me, that's the way. If the corner - like a real tall "V" with a corner less than, say, 3-4 degrees, I will back up, turn the piece around, back up into the kerf, turn the piese slightly and then cut my way out. A far as how sharp the "V" can be? The blade width is the answer. If the corner is greater than 90 degrees, it then becomes an "outside" corner and the rules change. Thanks for joining the conversation, Harry andf John Harry Brink 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Fred I usually run into the corner, then back up enough to turn my blade. Back into the previous cut and continue. I know there are quite a few ways to do this, but this is my "prefered" way. Blade size depends on the wood I am cutting. The softer the wood the larger blades I use. Ex. Pine #5UR hard woods. #3UR. I have been known to go to a #1UR to accomplish the task at hand. Different angles, different woods = different blades and approaches. There is more then one way to skin a cat Harry Brink 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sudekum Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 There are several ways to do that tricky inside corner. One method I have seen done is to drill a #65 or #70 hole at the apex of the angle ( the point ) this allows you more freedom to make the turn. Another method I have seen is to plan the cut in such a way that you come at it from both sides of the angle. Yet another way is to cut as normal and rotate the work when you reach the point. Another way would be if there is enough scrap area overcut one side and circle around and come back to the opposite side making what looks like one of those support ribbon shapes. This will give you a very sharp angle. I have done all of these at one time or another and they all work ... just not all the time for every situation. It varies. Hope this helps. DW Harry Brink 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 And I'm thinking that a picture or two would go a long way coz I can't make heads or tails of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Morris Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 On 8/1/2016 at 4:42 PM, Cliff said: And I'm thinking that a picture or two would go a long way coz I can't make heads or tails of this. Pics are always good. Fred, pics? Pretty please???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotinthewayyet Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 Didn't see anyone mention spiral blades. If you want to test your cutting skill, or see if you have a steady hand, that's the ticket since they cut no matter which direction you're going. John Morris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Morris Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 59 minutes ago, oldbutnotinthewayyet said: Didn't see anyone mention spiral blades. If you want to test your cutting skill, or see if you have a steady hand, that's the ticket since they cut no matter which direction you're going. Hey Old, that spiral you talk about is a great invention in many applications isn't it? I love spiral router bits too, seems that spiral design has made its way around somewhat, in many ways, and it sure is nice to use. Great suggestion by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Brink Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 1 hour ago, oldbutnotinthewayyet said: Didn't see anyone mention spiral blades. If you want to test your cutting skill, or see if you have a steady hand, that's the ticket since they cut no matter which direction you're going. Using spiral blades is next on my list. I may have to try them on a pattern I'm working on. John Morris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Morris Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 They are awesome Harry, I know we are talking about scrolling here, but if you never have to cut some ply or pattern make with a router, you gotta use the spiral router bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Wilson Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 On 8/16/2016 at 9:33 PM, oldbutnotinthewayyet said: Didn't see anyone mention spiral blades. If you want to test your cutting skill, or see if you have a steady hand, that's the ticket since they cut no matter which direction you're going. No, Harry, I understand ur way. That's the way I go for those. As for me, that's the way. If the corner - like a real tall "V" with a corner less than, say, 3-4 degrees, I will back up, turn the piece around, back up into the kerf, turn the piese slightly and then cut my way out. A far as how sharp the "V" can be? The blade width is the answer. If the corner is greater than 90 degrees, it then becomes an "outside" corner and the rules change. Thanks for joining the conversation, Harry andf John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Wilson Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 (edited) OK, guys and gals - y'all wanted pictures - I know - worth a thousand words - well, haw many words does it take for a video ! ! ! ! ! Thought it might be easier just to show you how I cut them. I believe, that by reading the entire thread, that others are doing it the same way. As far as spiral blades are concerned, I use them on occasion but find that I can not get a sharp enough inside corner since the point of the corner wil be only as tight as the kerf of the blade. Anyhow, here is the link to the video. Enjoy (or not) https://youtu.be/PLLFNky6OZY Cutting inside corners video Edited August 22, 2016 by Fred Wilson tried to put the insert in the post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman3 Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Can't watch the video; it's private. Just wasted 30 minutes convincing my computer that I have a gmail account. (no, that's not your fault. just my frustration) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman3 Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 As far as the inside corners, I will drill relief holes (1/16)at strategic locations (close to but not touching the cut lines). This way I have a location to turn the piece around without putting any side pressure on fragile fretwork. Depending on the pattern and the material being cut, I do the same thing for outside corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Brink Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 With your video you make it look way too easy! A picture or video is worth 1000 words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Wilson Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 11 hours ago, Wichman3 said: As far as the inside corners, I will drill relief holes (1/16)at strategic locations (close to but not touching the cut lines). This way I have a location to turn the piece around without putting any side pressure on fragile fretwork. Depending on the pattern and the material being cut, I do the same thing for outside corners. Sorry the video didn't work for you. Harry didn't have trouble seeing it. I agree with you on "no side pressure". That is why I use the methods I do. "go to the corner, back out make cut to the other side and into the corner" or "go to the corner, back it up to where I can turn the piece, back into the corner and then continue the cut". Hope this helps everyone out. Harry Brink 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman3 Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Tried to watch the video today and it worked, great job on the video; yep, thats the way I do it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Wilson Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Thanks for the input, Wichman - what seems pretty natural to us is sometimes confusing to others. If you have some time, check out the other "Tips and Tricks" I have put in. You might have others that we have not thought about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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