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Starter Holes


Harry Brink

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Harry

I start mine close to  place like  a sharp corner, Much less noticable and easier to match up. They can be inside corners or outside ones. I have alos found the points in the design serve well. I'll try and work on some drawings to better explain this for you. As you develop more expierance you will learn all the neat little tricks. Give me a few days and I'll see what I can come up with for you.

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  • 1 year later...

On "teardrop" openings  I'll put the hole near the sharp inside corner; then cut to the corner without touching the lines, back up, turn around, back to the corner and then cut on the line.

On complex openings, I'll place the hole near, not on, an outside corner.

Tips for drills

1 use cobalt alloy drill bits; they are stiffer and will not bend in the hole as much as other alloys

2 with small bits, crank the speed up to the highest your drill will go. This will give cleaner holes with less tearout.

 

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I would check on why you are having trouble meeting the same line before I changed my start point.

are you changing what side of the line you are cutting on? Or is the blade not tracing straight? What tool are we talking about? Scroll saw? Circular? Jig? Trim?

a lot of times it's the operator pushing the blade that causes it to go awry and not meet.

 

try slowing down, staying on the line and when you have to meet another cut slow way down and let the blade meet the other cut.  Let the blade do the work.

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2 hours ago, DRAGON1 said:

 

 

try slowing down, staying on the line and when you have to meet another cut slow way down and let the blade meet the other cut.  Let the blade do the work.

That's what I've been doing since I started this post. Coming out a lot better.

A sharp blade makes a world of difference also.

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55 minutes ago, Harry Brink said:

Not yet. I did try one years ago and in my old saw couldn't keep it in the holder so gave up.

I have a pattern that may be easier to cut with one so we'll see.

Did you try flattening out the ends? When the blades are made they are twisted as a last manufacturing step. The twist goes the whole length of the blade. I always flatten out the ends so that the clamps on the saw tighten down on a flat surface and not on a spiral. If you don't do this the clamp will loosen and the blade will slip out.

 

Bill

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7 hours ago, schnewj said:

Did you try flattening out the ends? When the blades are made they are twisted as a last manufacturing step. The twist goes the whole length of the blade. I always flatten out the ends so that the clamps on the saw tighten down on a flat surface and not on a spiral. If you don't do this the clamp will loosen and the blade will slip out.

 

Bill

Flying Dutchman blades sells spiral blades with flat ends. The only use I have for spiral blades is cutting Plexiglas, other than that use..... meh.

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