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Found 11 results

  1. Next step...?

    Ok, so far...have about 4 coats of thinned Amber Shellac on the "Project" Next step is supposed to be a clear, gloss varnish..... 1: Do I also thin the varnish with the DNA? 2: How long do I leave the shellac "dry" before I brush on the varnish? Should I fine sand before the varnish, or not? have rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool.....will that be enough? Will "tack" things off, before the varnish. Rather a bit of a rookie, when using shellac.. No, this is not a "run" ... Actually, it is a bit of Curly Maple grain showing off. Varnish is Poly Gloss. I am used to using the stuff, just not over shellac.... Wet clothes may get tossed onto the top...doubt IF shellac would like that...
  2. Varnish 101 Let’s explore one of the most popular finishes – oil-based varnish What is varnish? Varnish is made by cooking a resin with oil yielding a new substance, varnish. Originally the resins were natural products (think Stradivarius) but beginning in the early 20th century, synthetic resins started to be used. And yes, Polyurethane is just one common type of varnish, using urethane (and alkyd) as the base resins. Varnishes are made by selecting 1 or 2 resins from column A and one oil from column B Resin Oil Sample products Urethane – toughest, but can be cloudy and has minimal UV resistance, doesn’t bond well to other finishes or to its cured self. Linseed Products that say polyurethane – Minwax, Varathane, Sherwin-Williams Polyurethane Phenonic - tough and flexible, but darkens Tung – often used with phenolic Waterlox Alkyd – less tough, but lighter color Soy (soya) – less yellowing Pratt & Lambert #38, Cabot 8000, Sherwin –Williams Fast Dry (usually products that don't say "Tung Oil" (phenolic) or (poly)urethane on the can.) The choice of which used impart certain characteristics to the final product, just as the choice of flour(s) impart certain characteristics to bread. Once cooked, the varnish is thinned with a carrier, usually mineral spirits, to make a workable product. Also added are driers to speed curing and unless it’s gloss, flattening agents (silica). How Varnishes Cure Varnishes “dry”, or cure, in two phases 1. The thinner (e.g., mineral spirts) evaporates. Known as “flashing off.” 2. The varnish absorbs oxygen and polymerizes into long chains. This can take about three weeks to fully cure. It helps to be at moderate temperature and fresh air. (This is also why it cures in a partial can.) Flexner calls varnish finishes "Tinker Toys" because of the way they cure. Once the product cures, it will not “re-dissolve” in the thinner, mineral spirits. Characteristics of varnish vs. other finishes Pros Cons Readily available. You can find polys at grocery and discount stores. Non-polys harder to find outside specialty stores Ability to apply with simple equipment. Long open time allows time to brush /pad out. Long curing time, increasing finish time and picking up dust. Cooler temperature increases cure time. Long dry time makes it problematic to spray. Durable finish, resistant to water and water vapor, heat, many solvents Difficulty to repair or strip (the converse of durability) Durable finish, resistant to abrasion Difficulty to rub out to adjust sheen or remove scuffs (the converse of abrasion resistance) Affordable cost options Unused portion can cure in can giving thick or skinned over. Poly has poor adhesion to other finishes or itself. Each coat must be lightly sanded so that the next coat adheres properly. Each coat is distinct from the one below it. This layer effect also makes it difficult to sand out blemishes in the finish: if you cut through one or more layers, a thin witness line will show along the boundary between the layers. Formats of Varnish Wiping Varnish Wiping varnish is simply a varnish with a higher amount of carrier (thinner) added to make a less viscous product. These are often sold under misleading names such as “Tung Oil Finish” (they are not or may not even contain tung oil) or “Oil-Urethane Blend” Gel Varnish A Gel Varnish is a varnish that has had a thixotropic (thickening) agent added. When at rest, it is a gel, and when energy is applied (e.g., rubbing) it reduces viscosity to a liquid, to return to gel when at rest again. Brushing Varnish If it doesn’t say the above, it’s probably a brushing varnish. This is a varnish that has been thinned with a smaller amount of thinner than wiping varnish. Long-oil Varnish This is a varnish that in the recipe has a higher proportion of oil than “short-oil” varnishes, the more common type. This makes a softer and more flexible finish. Usually called “spar” varnish. You may notice the oxymoron of products like Minwax Helmsman - a spar urethane. Urethanes lack much UV resistance, and yet many people think this is a finish suitable for outdoor use. Marine Varnish This is a spar varnish to which UV absorbers/inhibiters has been added. Usually pretty expensive ($50/qt) and available from marine supply houses such as Jamestown Distributors. Common brands are Epifanes, Interlux Schooner, and Pettit. It takes a number of coats (6-8) and regular maintenance and recoating to keep looking good in UV-rich environments. Food Safe Varnishes / Salad Bowl Finish All common varnishes are non-toxic once fully cured. Another marketing gimmick. One brand of salad bowl finish was exactly the same as the company’s wiping varnish. Just a different label on the can. Varnish Stains These are "all-in-one" finishes that are somewhere between a clear varnish and a paint. Common example is Polyshades. I generally consider this a type of "toner" - a finish with added pigment. These are very difficult to apply without getting streaking or opaqueness. So I don't recommend them. I have a finishing book written in the early 1950s that talks about how terrible these are. "The properties of a good stain are penetration and clarity. It does not penetrate the surface, and the varnish diminishes its clarity The result of using this stain is a muddy, streaky surface." (Gibbia, "Wood Finishing and Refinishing") Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose . Water-based Polyurethane / Water-borne Varnish These are completely different animals that are made and cure in very different ways. We’ll look at those later. More misleading labels. How to apply varnish There are three ways to apply any finish – cloth (wiping), brush, or spray. In coming weeks, we’ll look at varnish’s options.
  3. Finish?

    Hi! I am going to refinish a child's rocking chair for my granddaughter, but I'm not real experienced with this stuff, so I'm needing to ask a couple questions. What type of top coating finish is usually used on children's furniture? Here are a couple pics of the rocker i have. Can anyone tell what the finish might be, so I know what kind of stripping agent to use. Could it be laquer or varnish? Thanks for any help y'all can give me! Teri
  4. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    Finished and ready for delivery. My go to finishing schedule for most of my flat work is water based dyes for color, followed by a coat of boiled linseed oil, then oil based varnish. I still love the warmth and glow of oil based varnishes, it has a warmth that I love.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  5. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    Young Patriot Woodworkers, they are not ready to see this one leave our shop. As with any project that takes time, it becomes part of the family, and the kids always hate to see it leave the shop.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  6. Finish Is On

    a little tool chest varnish/BLO/walnut stain. insides are filling up quick. Might just be a decent chest. From a pile of old bed parts
  7. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    The cabinet in place at its final resting place, with pewter molds in place. You'll see the tails are cut into the side of the cabinet and exposed, I set the tails on the side of the cabinet to lend it downward strength, the mechanics of the joinery will not allow any weight to push down and separate the corners.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  8. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    In place at a home where the resident loves colonial works, and this piece fit right in.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  9. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    The customers pewter molds on full display. The pewter molds are one area of his vast collections of antique in his home. These molds were used to make breads, bread puddings, and puddings, in the shape of the molds.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  10. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    The curls are wonderful in this lumber, thank you Bob Kloes.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  11. The $5 Coffin Smoother Rehab

    Awhile back, picked a Scioto works #8 coffin style smooth plane at an antique toy store.    Missing a bolt to hold the iron and chipbreaker together.   Missing the strike button on the backside.    So, Found a tap that was close to the size i needed to make a new thread in the chipbreaker.   Turned out to be a 10-1.5 Metric plug tap.    Ok, we have the matching bolts at work.    Brought one home that I found on the floor.   It came out of the shelving system they use.    Takes a 6mm allen wrench to loosen.   Ground the head down a bit, to almost flat.   And still leave a bit for the wrench to grab into.  Shorten the threaded part a bunch.   had to clear the wedge.    Sharpened the iron  back up, adjust the chip-breaker for a better fit.   Beltsander and sandpaper on a tile to sharpen the iron.   A look at the back side Soaked the wood body in a BLO/ Varnish/ Walnut stain mix.....about ten coats.    Wood was VERY dried out.   Markings on  the iron are from Ohio Tool Co.    Thistle Brand Made in USA Took a handplane to the sole for a tune up. nise was worn quite a bit.   Got the sole nice and flat, and gave it a coat Yep, there is a crack in the heel.    Right where the missing strike button USED to be.   Guess that is why it is AWOL.    Decided to make something to take it's place.    Didn't like the idea of a carriage bolt stuck up in there.   Didn't have a big enough bolt, so, a washer of sorts was made, and a smaller bolt added.    Filled the hole with glue, and tapped the parts in place Almost like a Lincoln's spare tire..... Got everything back together for a test drive The shaving is the full width of the pine scrap I was using.    Had it set a bit deep, though.     Not too bad for a $5 plane  

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