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Found 12 results

  1. Scrolling Straight Lines ?

    If memory serves me right, someone ws saying that they are having trouble cutting straight lines - (I think that is all of us). I think this also goes with cutting large (i.e. >6" diameter) arcs. A couple of things I can think that I do is: Line my chair/stool up with the kerf - my blades tend to cut more on the right side, therefore, I line my chair/stool up to the right of center - in line with a "straight" cut kerf I don't change the position of my hands during the cut thereby "eliminating" changing dominance of one hand over the other I try to apply steady pressure during the cut - changing the pressure will cause blade characteristics to change the pull angle I don't rush - tends to enable minute changes in direction without causing a perceived crooked line There's my thoughts - how about your tips for cutting straight(er) lines? Appreciate any input guys. fred
  2. spoon gouge

    Just stumbled upon this
  3. Tape Measures 101

    Some information and tips on tape measures. I ended up using the one to draw a 5' radius circle a couple of weeks ago. Be sure to watch Travis Larsen's video that will pop up,too. https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/best-tape-measures-reviews-and-secrets-of-the-tape-measure?pmcode=IVBJJU103&_cmp=DiyTipsHintsNL&_ebid=DiyTipsHintsNL8/10/2017&_mid=161766&ehid=EBC4D8BEC6F08D97A318788DB78D9A1244AF138A/1/
  4. When you need to putty a nail hole, the putty often smears and fills open grain around the hole. Solution: Put down some painter's masking tape and nail through the tape. Putty the hole and remove the tape. Result is the putty is just in the hole.
  5. Now that school is out for the year, expect "back to school sales" to start in a week or two ;-) One item that I've gotten is the plastic pencil storage boxes. Generally run less than $1 and work well for small parts, small tool assortments, etc. Stack well, snap close, and most are translucent so you can get an idea for what's inside. Available at most office supply (Staples, OfficeMax=-Office Depot) and department store chains (Target, Walmart, etc.) or at dollar stores. They used to also run small bottles of Elmer's glue that were great for popping in a tool box, but recently they seem to have gone to "School Glue."
  6. Repairing Sanding Belts.. It's not worth the effort... IMHO... re-purpose them instead.. There's volumes on this subject... and the upshot is... no... But if you must... First, peel the remaining factory tape off the belt splice. Cut a piece of cloth bias tape (wide single-fold type, available at fabric stores) about 2″ longer than the width of the belt. Lay one end of the belt, grit-side down, on the bench; then apply cyanoacrylate glue to the end of the belt. Lay half of the bias tape’s width on the glue, place waxed paper over the tape, and use a weight to press down on it for about 30 seconds, or until the glue sets. Wrap the belt around and repeat the gluing process to reconnect the ends of the belt. Trim off the excess tape, and the belt’s ready to use... For a short while.... the manufacturers use a heat press (vulcanization process) set, Kevlar tape/glue and the belts generally have a one year shelf life... The seams deteriorate w/ time... AccuBind Pro Binding Strips will work the best for repairs but you need a 250 - 300 degree heated press (carpet seaming iron and lots of pressure) to apply them correctly and the price of them will hurt your brain... Some more uses for Sandpaper... Sharpen sewing needles Think twice before throwing out a used piece of Xfine-grit sandpaper; the unused edges or corners are perfect for tucking into your sewing box. Poking your sewing needles through sandpaper a few times, or twisting them inside a folded piece of sandpaper, will make them sharper than ever. Sharpen your scissors Are your scissor cuts less than crisp? Try cutting through a sheet of fine-grit sandpaper to finish off the edge and keep your cuts clean. Once or twice w/ the grit side up.. and then grit side down.. Remove fuzzy pills on sweaters If you’re fighting a losing battle with the fuzz balls on your sweaters, a little sandpaper will handle them. Use any grit, and rub lightly in one direction. Remove scorches on wool Take some medium-grit sandpaper to any small scorch spots on your woolen clothing. The mark left by a careless spark will be less notice-able with some light sanding around the edges. Roughen slippery leather soles New shoes with slippery soles can send you flying, so take a little sandpaper and a little time to sand across the width of the soles and roughen up the slick surface. It’s thriftier and easier than taking your new shoes to a repair shop to have new rubber soles put on. Remove ink stains and scuff marks from suede A little fine-grit sandpaper and a gentle touch is great for removing or at least minimizing an ink stain or small scuff mark on suede clothing or shoes. Afterward, bring up the nap with a toothbrush or nailbrush. You might avoid an expensive trip to the dry cleaner! Use to deter slugs Slugs are truly the unwelcome guests that will never leave, but you can stop them from getting into your potted plants in the first place. Put those used sanding disks to work under the bases of your pots, making sure the sandpaper is wider than the pot base. Remove stubborn grout stains Sometimes your bathroom abrasive cleaner is just not abrasive enough. Get tough on grout stains with fine-grit sandpaper. Fold the sandpaper and use the folded edge to sand in the grout seam. Be careful not to sand the tile and scratch the finish. Open a stuck jar Having a tough time opening a jar? Grab a piece of sandpaper and place it grit side down on the lid. The sandpaper should improve your grip enough to do the job. Make an emery board If you don’t have an emery board handy the next time you need to smooth your nails, just raid the sandpaper stash in the garage workshop. Use a piece of 120/150 grit glued to a Popsicle like stick. Some PDF's for your library... COLOR CODES NON-WOVEN PADS.pdf color-grading non- woven pads.pdf Grit Comparison Chart-3.pdf Making Sense of Sandpaper -P1.pdf Making Sense of Sandpaper -P2.pdf Grit-Mesh-MicronConversionChart-3.pdf
  7. Top 10 Unavoidable Truths of Woodworking quotes from Michael Dunbar. Some sage advice, there. 1. Don't Rush... - Don't confuse working quickly with rushing.. 2. Learn to sharpen... - It opens the door to faster, easier techniques that yield better results... 3. You get what you pay for.... - When you try to cut corners by buying low-end brand or lower-quality materials, you set yourself up for disappointment... 4. Finishing is half the battle... - Finishing is as important as the woodworking and frequently takes as long... 5. Practice makes perfect... - Try unfamiliar skills on scrap... 6. Dry fit before glue-up... - Don't discover nasty surprises after the glue has been spread... 7. Glue won't rescue poor joinery.. - While there are tricks for correcting mistakes, these should never be thought of as ways to get around good workmanship... 8. Your router won't do everything... - There are no universal wonder tools that will do everything perfectly and effortlessly... 9 Use both hand and power tools... - An efficient, effective woodworker know how to use both machine and hand tools... 10. Keep your shop clean... - Keep your shop tuned up and well-maintained...
  8. So there I was, cutting away on one of Susan Landry's patterns and contemplating my techniques. (I usually contemplate something whilst I cut) This project has some rather sharp inside corners throughout the. Corners like " < " with inside angles less than 10 degrees. As i was contemplating it occurred to me that I didn't have to think too hard when I was cutting them. And then a light bulb turned on and I wondered how sharp the end of that corner would be and how did my scrolling buddies cut their sharp inside corners. Species of wood? Size of blade? Skill? Luck? Experience? Type of blade? Sharpness of blade? Etc? Let me know what y'all think about my contemplations regarding sharpness of that 5 degree angle inside cut. I'll put my revelations out there in a couple of days. Promise
  9. Today I was cutting a bunch of the military stars and it occurred to me that we have never discussed how we try to cut straight lines on our scroll saws ! ! ! ! I guess we just assume that: Everyone knows how Can't be done on a scroll saw After discovering that I usually don't pay much attention to it, I started figuring out how I managed to, basically, cut most of my lines fairly straight. AND....... I came to the following conclusions: When cutting a bunch of straight line stuff, I generally change to a larger blade - gives a little more length to the blade and a little harder to make a sharp corner; During the cut, I never seem to change the position of my hands (for kicks, I DID change positions and, behold, it went crooked); I also sit directly in line with the cut - just about all blades will pull a little to either the left or right and I just move my position to line the cut up - the blade is lined up with the kerf (if you one-eye it). What say you all - agree, disagree, more suggestions are always welcome....... What do you do if and when your line DOES go crooked?????????????
  10. Woodworking Tips

    Picked this up off of the Parkersburg Woodcraft Facebook page http://www.woodworkerz.com/straight-edges-without-a-big-jointer/ Some neat tricks.
  11. WW TIPS When you open the page, the "TIPS" link is in the banner at the top. Enjoy!
  12. I stumbled across this article on a guy's website here: http://www.ronkent.com/techniques.php I haven't tried this solution yet, but I'm going to. His goal was to pickup a piece of green wood, turn it, sand it and finish it within a day or two without unsightly cracks occurring Some goal I'm thinking. He says (from the web Page) : "I went to Costco and purchased four half gallon containers of the magic elixir along with a sturdy plastic storage bin of sufficient size to hold the mixture and some bowl blanks. Upon arrival at home, I emptied the detergent into the container and added an equal amount of water. From then on, I would take primarily green wood and rough turn in one day, soak overnight, and finish the next day. Sometimes I didn't finish it on the second day and left it mounted on the lathe overnight and sometimes for a several days. Surprise! They didn't crack! I have since taken green wood, rough turned it, soaked it about four hours and then finish turned it and finished it in one day. In the six to eight months I have been using this technique, I haven't had one bowl crack. A few had a bit of movement, but it was very slight. I have used the following woods: black walnut, vine maple, maple, oak (kiln dried), yew, honey locust, fruiting cherry, birch, plum, apple. " He uses an amber dish soap concentrate that he gets from CostCo branded Kirkland I'll need to find some one with a CostCo card, or just go web surfing for amber dish soap concentrate. He dilutes the soap concentrate 1 - 1 with water. He's tried Alcohol but thinks it's too expensive to justify it. He cuts his green wood to about an inch thick and starts treating it with the soap He claims the shavings are much improved and cut quality s better He says that it does not interfere with his oil soak & sand in Varathane finishing regimen and that it makes sanding better. The whole time I'm reading this I'm thinking that it just has to interfere with his finishes but he says it doesn't. There's even a sort of scientific explanation for why the solution works and at $7.00 a gallon it's a lot cheaper than the stuff they sell for the job. Check it out.

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