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Found 14 results

  1. 1. Beautify Finishing, including any coloring, beautifies the wood over a raw wood surface. It adds sheen level, accentuates grain and figure, can unify coloring variances, and can add chatoyance (glimmering like a cat's eye) It can give cheap woods appearance of a more expensive one (e.g., poplar into walnut or cherry, ebonized wood). 2. Protect Finish can protect wood from incidental damage such as liquids (water), scuffs, soiling, bacteria and in some cases UV damage. Look at what happens to wood when left outdoors in the rain or sun. Think of the molding around a door from the garage to the house that's never been finished -- it will be full of dirt and oils. 3. Provide a cleanable surface Again think of the garage door molding. Ever have one of those you have to clean? The dirt, body, and engine oils are deeply embedded and almost impossible to get rid of without some deep sanding. I've had to work on some farm tables with minimal to no finish on them. I always say that they're just one spilled glass of red wine or errant meatball from getting a permanent stain.
  2. QUICK TABLE

    FELLOW ASK ME BOUT BUILDING'M A TABLE. TOOK ME TO'EZ OFFICE. TOLD'M TO GET TWO LOW LEGAL FILE CABINETS. GO TO WHERE EVER HE CAN GIT A SLIGHTY DAMAGED INTERENCE DOOR. PLACE LOW LEGALS WHERE EVER, LAY DOOR ACROSS IT, USING PRE DRILLED HOLES FOR COMPUTER, PHONE,ETC.. SEEN'M LATER & HE LIKED'EZ NEW DESK & ALL THE STORAGE & COST.
  3. Tagging

    Hi folks. Fred here. We have been asked to be sure to tag our posts. It is great to see that most of us are already doing this. Tagging is a great way to simplify searching. Thanks again for your "tagging" fred
  4. Woodworking tip

    I have submitted quite a few tips to woodworking magazines and have won 5 or 6 times. One that I liked real well also won a place in the top tips for the last 10 years. It is one you can use and works. I submitted it for the lathe, but you can use it in any tool area with wood chips flying. So simple. When I used my lathe, of course chips flew everywhere. I got an idea. I installed a window blind on the ceiling behind me. When I was going to turn something, I'd pull it down, this confined the chips to one area. Much easier to clean up. I put an old carpet on the floor that the chips fell on. Then I'd roll up the carpet and chip for easy disposal. Everyone has an old window blind, Venetian or roll kind somewhere tucked away That you will NEVER use. Apply it to your own wood tool, get it out of the way, roll it up
  5. There are times when you just don't have that silicone brush, acid brush, or Popsicle stick, what are you going to do? Use your finger! But not just any finger -- use your pinkie finger. Why? You are less likely to smear the glue on the finish surface and cause a glue blotch or get glue all over your tool handle or glue bottle.
  6. A featherboard is great for controlling feed at the table saw, bandsaw, or router table, preventing kickback and keeping a workpiece firmly pressed against a fence for both safety and accuracy of cut. But there are times when a featherboard is best raised up off the table. For example, when rabbeting at the table saw, (Read more....)
  7. Nothing fancy.

    A friend of mine wanted some wood tips for his vape machine so I thought I would try and make a few. I made some out of blood wood and purple heart.
  8. DIY chisel guards

    If you're like me and keep chisels in a drawer and also buy them at yard sales, they need a chisel guard. Here's a no-cost way to do it. Get an empty water or milk bottle (1 gal HDPE plastic) Heat the side with a heat gun. After a few seconds, the plastic will turn from translucent white to clear. While still hot, plunge the chisel tip in and turn it to cover the tip. Pull it out with the plastic glob on. With a gloved hand, shape the end to cover the bezel and tip. Let cool.
  9. can we expand on motors some... MAINTENANCE OF AC MOTORS The inspection and maintenance of ac motors is very simple. The bearings may or may not need frequent lubrication. If they are the sealed type, lubricated at the factory, they require no further attention. Be sure the coils are kept dry and free from oil or other abuse. The temperature of a motor is usually its only limiting operating factor. A good rule of thumb is that a temperature too hot for the hand is too high for safety. Next to the temperature, the sound of a motor or generator is the best trouble indicator. When operating properly, it should hum evenly. If it is overloaded it will "grunt." A three phase motor with one lead disconnected will refuse to turn and will "growl." A knocking sound generally indicates a loose armature coil, a shaft out of alignment, or armature dragging because of worn bearings. The inspection and maintenance of all ac motors should be performed in accordance with the applicable manufacturer's instructions. Troubleshooting The following troubleshooting procedures are not applicable to a particular ac motor, but are included as examples of the general troubleshooting procedures provided by various manufacturers of ac motors. ----------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLE: Motor speed slow. POSSIBLE CAUSE: No lubrication. Applied voltage low. Motor wiring defective. CORRECTION: Lubricate as necessary. Check motor source voltage. Perform voltage continuity test of motor wiring. ----------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLE: Motor speed fast. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Excessive supply voltage. Motor field windings shorted. CORRECTION: Check and adjust level of motor supply voltage. Repair shorted windings or replace or overhaul motor. ----------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLE: Motor will not operate. No voltage applied to motor. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Loose or broken wiring inside motor. CORRECTION: Perform continuity test of motor circuit. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Defective motor switch. CORRECTION: Check switch and switch wiring using a continuity tester. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Armature or field winding open circuited. CORRECTION: Repair open winding or replace motor. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Brushes worn excessively. CORRECTION: Replace brushes. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Brush springs broken or too weak. CORRECTION: Replace brush springs. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Brushes sticking in brush holders. CORRECTION: Replace or clean and adjust brushes. ----------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLE: Motor vibrates. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Loose or broken motor mountings. CORRECTION: Repair or replace motor mountings. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Motor shaft bent. CORRECTION: Replace shaft or overhaul or replace motor. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Motor bearings worn excessively. CORRECTION: Replace bearings or overhaul motor. ----------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLE: Motor arcing excessively at brushes. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Brushes worn excessively. CORRECTION: Replace brushes. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Brush springs weak. CORRECTION: Replace brush springs. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Brushes sticking in holders. CORRECTION: Replace or clean brushes. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Brushes incorrectly located. CORRECTION: Position brushes properly. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Commutator dirty or excessively worn or pitted. CORRECTION: Clean or repair commutator as necessary. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Open circuited armature coil. CORRECTION: Repair open circuit or overhaul or replace motor. ----------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLE: Motor runs but overheats. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Motor bearings improperly lubricated. CORRECTION: Lubricate bearings. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Excessive applied voltage. CORRECTION: Check voltage and adjust to proper level. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Field windings short circuited. CORRECTION: Repair short circuit or overhaul or replace. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Excessive brush arcing. CORRECTION: Replace and adjust brushes. ----------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLE: Motor will not operate but draws high current. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Shorted circuit to motor. CORRECTION: Locate and repair short circuit. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Open field winding in shunt motor. CORRECTION: Repair or overhaul or replace motor. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Motor internal circuit shorted. CORRECTION: Repair short circuit or overhaul or replace motor. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Mechanical stoppage. CORRECTION: Check for seized motor bearings or binding of mechanism driven by motor. Repair or replace seized components. POSSIBLE CAUSE: Excessive load on motor. CORRECTION: Reduce load or install motor capable of carrying greater load.
  10. thought this may be of some help... Caution: *1. Disconnect power to the motor before performing service or maintenance. *2. Discharge all capacitors before servicing motor. *3. Always keep hands and clothing away from moving parts. *4. Be sure required safety guards are in place before starting equipment. Motor fails to start upon initial installation. Like Causes: Motor is miswired. Verify motor is wired correctly per information supplied with the motor. Motor damaged and rotor is striking stator. May be able to reassemble; otherwise, motor should be replaced. Fan guard bent and contacting fan. Replace fan guard or, if possible, straighten it out. Motor has been running, then fails to start. Like Causes: Fuse or circuit breaker tripped. Replace fuse or reset the breaker. Stator is shorted or went to ground. Motor will make a humming noise and the circuit breaker or fuse will trip. Disassemble motor and inspect windings and internal connections. A blown stator will show a burn mark. Motor must be replaced or the stator rewound. Motor overloaded or load jammed. Inspect to see that the load is free. Verify amp draw of motor versus nameplate rating. Capacitor (on single phase motor) may have failed. First discharge capacitor. To check capacitor, set volt-ohm meter to RX100 scale and touch its probes to capacitor terminals. If capacitor is OK, needle will jump to zero ohms, and drift back to high. Steady zero ohms indicates a short circuit; steady high ohms indicates an open circuit. Starting switch has failed. Disassemble motor and inspect both the centrifugal and stationary switches. The weights of the centrifugal switch should move in and out freely. Make sure that the switch is not loose on the shaft. Inspect contacts and connections on the stationary switch. Replace switch if the contacts are burned or pitted. Motor runs but dies down. Like Causes: Voltage drop. If voltage is less than 10% of the motor’s rating contact power company or check if some other equipment is taking power away from the motor.* If motor is run using an extension cord, verify that this extension cord is properly sized for motor's current draw. Load increased. Verify the load has not changed. Verify equipment hasn’t got tighter. If fan application verify the air flow hasn’t changed. Motor takes too long to accelerate. Like Causes: Defective capacitor Test capacitor per previous instructions. Faulty stationary switch. Inspect switch contacts and connections. Verify that switch reeds have some spring in them. Bad bearings. Noisy or rough feeling bearings should be replaced. Voltage too low. Make sure that the voltage is within 10% of the motor’s nameplate rating. If not, contact power company or check if some other equipment is taking power away from the motor. Motor runs in the wrong direction. Like Causes: Incorrect wiring. Rewire motor according to wiring schematic provided. Motor overload protector continually trips. Like Causes: Load too high. Verify that the load is not jammed. If motor is a replacement, verify that the rating is the same as the old motor. If previous motor was a special design, a stock motor may not be able to duplicate the performance. Remove the load from the motor and inspect the amp draw of the motor unloaded. It should be less than the full load rating stamped on the nameplate. Ambient temperature too high. Verify that the motor is getting enough air for proper cooling. Most motors are designed to run in an ambient temperature of less than 40°C. (Note: A properly operating motor may be hot to the touch.) Protector may be defective. Replace the motor’s protector with a new one of the same rating. Winding shorted or grounded. Inspect stator for defects, or loose or cut wires that may cause it to go to ground. Motor vibrates. Like Causes: Motor misaligned to load. Realign load. Load out of balance. (Direct drive application.) Remove motor from load and inspect motor by itself. Verify that motor shaft is not bent. Rule of thumb is .001" runout per every inch of shaft length. Motor bearings defective. Test motor by itself. If bearings are bad, you will hear noise or feel roughness. Replace bearings. Add oil if a sleeve of bearing. Add grease if bearings have grease fittings. Rotor out of balance. Inspect motor by itself with no load attached. If it feels rough and vibrates but the bearings are good, it may be that the rotor was improperly balanced at the factory. Rotor must be replaced or rebalanced. Motor may have too much endplay. With the motor disconnected from power turned shaft. It should move but with some resistance. If the shaft moves in and out too freely, this may indicate a preload problem and the bearings may need additional shimming. Winding may be defective. Test winding for shorted or open circuits. The amps may also be high. Replace motor or have stator rewound. Bearings continuously fail. Like Causes: Load to motor may be excessive or unbalanced. Besides checking load, also inspect drive belt tension to ensure it’s not too tight may be too high. An unbalanced load will also cause the bearings to fail. High ambient temperature. If the motor is used in a high ambient, a different type of bearing grease may be required.You may need to consult the factory or a bearing distributor. The motor, at start up, makes a loud rubbing or grinding noise. Like Causes: Rotor may be striking stator. Ensure that motor was not damaged in shipment. Frame damage may not be repairable. If you cannot see physical damage, inspect the motor’s rotor and stator for strike marks. If signs of rubbing are present, the motor should be replaced. Sometimes simply disassembling and reassembling motor eliminates rubbing. Endbells are also sometimes knocked out of alignment during transportation. Start capacitors continuously fail. Like Causes: The motor is not coming up to speed quickly enough. Motor may not be sized properly. Verify how long the motor takes to come up to speed. Most single phase capacitor start motors should come up to speed within three seconds. Otherwise the capacitors may fail. The motor is being cycled too frequently. Verify duty cycle. Capacitor manufacturers recommend no more than 20, three second starts per hour. Install capacitor with higher voltage rating, or add bleed resistor to the capacitor. Voltage to motor is too low. Verify that voltage to the motor is within 10% of the nameplate value. If the motor is rated 208-230V, the deviation must be calculated from 230V. Starting switch may be defective, preventing the motor from coming out of start winding. Replace switch. Run capacitor fail. Ambient temperature too high. Verify that ambient does not exceed motor’s nameplate value. Possible power surge to motor, caused by lightning strike or other high transient voltage. If it is a common problem, install a surge protector. 1. Look at the label on the electric motor to determine the voltage it needs to operate. Make a note of the voltage. 2. Find the two small metal terminals on the electric motor. They are near the back and have two colored wires; usually red and black, attached to them. 3. Turn on the power unit that supplies electricity to the electric motor. You need to check if electricity is getting to the motor. 4. Turn on the multimeter. Ensure it is set to measure volts as multimeters. It can also measure amperes and ohms. 5. Place the copper sensors running from the multimeter onto the metal terminals on the small electric motor. The sensor on the end of the red wire from the multimeter touches the terminal that has a red wire attached. The sensor on the end of the black wire from the meter touches the terminal that has a black wire attached. Ensure you don’t touch the outer casing of the electric motor, as you may get a false reading. 6. Check the multimeter measurement. It measures the same, or similar, to the voltage you noted from the label on the electric motor if power is reaching the motor. If you have a reading and your motor isn’t operating, it’s certain the motor is the problem and needs replacing. If you don’t get a measurement, then it means power isn’t reaching the motor, so it may not be the motor that’s faulty. 7. Check the power source. Locate the two terminals and place the sensors from the end of the multimeter wires onto the two terminals as before: red on the terminal that has the red wire attached and black on the terminal that has the black wire attached. 8. Read the multimeter display. It reads the same or similar voltage as you noted earlier if the power source is producing electricity. If you get a reading, then you know that the wiring is faulty because you’ve already found that electricity isn’t reaching the motor. You need to replace the wiring before your motor will work. If you don’t get a reading, or the reading is very low, you have a problem with the power source rather than the motor.
  11. say the stock is 3/4" thick... put a 3/4" fostner bit in the DP.. slide the fence up to the bit and lock it down... (the fence)... presto... center of stock all done... swap out bits.. set the stock to the fence... drill... helps out on square stock too....
  12. need to find dowel centers ya say... bore dowel sizes into the edge of a 2x4 piece of material w/ a fostner bit, say, 1 - 1¼ inch deep... insert a blind nail into where the fostner bit left a dimple in the center of the bored hole... pilot drill for the blind nail if you think you need to... insert a dowel into the appropriate sized hole and push or tap the dowel's end onto the blind nail's point to mark the center of the dowel.. .
  13. Here's a neat tip for squaring the drill press table- http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2015/10/15/drill-press-checkup/?utm_source=WoodsmithTips&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=9998
  14. A Little Hinge Trick

    When using small hinges to install delicate frame doors or any thing smaller then a standard cabinet door that requires a mortised hinge, I like to crimp my little hinges to close the gap between the door and the mating surface of what ever your installing the door on. Once you close the gap in the hinge, then mortise it in, you have a nice tight fitting door with virtually zero gap. The first pic is a standard small hinge, in this case I have a 2" brass hinge I bought from the home center for a display case I am building. You will see how "Gappy" the hinge is right out of the bag new. Put the little hinge in a vise, Then tighten the vise as tight as you can, be careful not to insert the hinge too far into the vise jaws or you'll just be crimping the hinge against the pin. The pic below shows my hinge after I tightened down on it. There you have it, a very simple little hinge trick for closing those gaps in your doors, works great for jewelry boxes, small cabinets, or for any project that requires small hinges. And, don't worry about marring the surface of the hinge with the vise jaws, because the jaws are against the bottom surface of the hinges, and I have yet to see any scratches on the brite side of the brass, but you can always slip a piece of wax paper in between the hinge to prevent marring if your worried about it. Thanks for reading!

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