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Found 15 results

  1. Bowl for my daughter

    Finally got back on my lathe. When my daughter saw this fruit bowl I had made for my wife, which I posted on back in October, she wanted something similar. This is what I came up with for her. It started out as four pieces of 8/4 poplar. I edge glued two pieces together, then edge glued the other two pieces together, then face glued those two chunks together to make a big blank. I wanted to try my hand at making a bowl that was pretty much at the maximum diameter allowed for my lathe. With that heavy of a blank, I was a little wary of it flying off the chuck. I screwed on a face plate and turned the bottom and the chuck mortise, then mounted it on the chuck, and turned the inside very gently until I had removed some of the weight. Finishing was a coat of Bullseye Sealcoat sanding sealer, followed by a coat of amber shellac, and then three coats of spray lacquer. I haven't given it to her yet; I hope she likes it. I turned it with a combination of Easy Wood Tools, and a traditional 3/8" bowl gouge I purchased from a gentleman on this site. This is my fourth bowl. Thanks for looking.
  2. This came across my feed today. And it's appropriate, I got approached Sunday by a neighbor's son who wanted a gift made for his mom (for Christmas). 1) they are always late for stuff and 2) Mom is a vet and lost her 33 year old horse that she had since teenhood (which was also very stressful for her) and 3) I already had a pretty full week planned. At first he wanted the 5x7 in the center of the horse cutout. Yikes, to scale it up would have made a 22x34" frame with a 5x7 opening. Redesigned. Finished it up right after lunch and second coat of shellac now drying. For last minute finishing, use one of these finishes: Lacquer, Shellac, and Waterborne. https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/christmas?did=203714-20171221&utm_campaign=wood_weeklyupdate_122117&utm_medium=email&utm_source=wdm-newsletter
  3. I'm getting close to the finishing stage for a walnut mantle clock I've been working on, and I'm looking for suggestions for an appropriate finish. The clock will be on a shelf in the bathroom, and so will be exposed to the humidity coming from the shower. Would danish oil be a good finish, or should I go with a poly? Also thinking of a seal coat of shellac, followed by several coats of satin poly. The shellac would probably be from a rattle can, and the poly would be wipe-on. The clock shouldn't be subject to too much physical wear and tear, so I am just mainly concerned about the bathroom environment.
  4. Spraying shellac?

    When spraying Bullseye shellac with a HVLP, should I thin it? If so, how much? Using DNA.
  5. to Spray or brush

    Hi all I am finishing a pine door with a medium brown water based dye, then two coats of shellac then water based poly. My problem is the dye on hardwood always colors everything evenly. The Pine is not acting that way. It seems to have some issue. When dyed it is even and uniform. But by the time the first coat of shellac is put on with a brush or foam brush the dye is not uniform. Would I be better off spraying the shellac? If so the alchol is quite flamable and I need to turn off the water tank and furnance. When I get home I will upload some pictures. My very kind spouse says she likes the variation. This is my first endevour with a closed cell softwood.
  6. Next step...?

    Ok, so far...have about 4 coats of thinned Amber Shellac on the "Project" Next step is supposed to be a clear, gloss varnish..... 1: Do I also thin the varnish with the DNA? 2: How long do I leave the shellac "dry" before I brush on the varnish? Should I fine sand before the varnish, or not? have rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool.....will that be enough? Will "tack" things off, before the varnish. Rather a bit of a rookie, when using shellac.. No, this is not a "run" ... Actually, it is a bit of Curly Maple grain showing off. Varnish is Poly Gloss. I am used to using the stuff, just not over shellac.... Wet clothes may get tossed onto the top...doubt IF shellac would like that...
  7. Today we look at another type of common finish – Shellac The Product Shellac comes from the secretion of the lac bug in SE Asia. These secretions coat branches of trees. The branches are exposed to heat (e.g., a fire) and melts and drips off. This is called seed-lac, the least refined form and may contain contaminates such as dirt, bug parts, bark, etc. Following this, it may be refined and bleached, yielding more and more types of shellac – garnet, orange (AKA amber), lemon, blonde (AKA clear), super blonde. You can buy the product as “buttons” or as flakes, or you can buy it pre-mixed in its solvent. Native shellac has some amount of wax in it. If you are using shellac as a finish alone, it’s not a problem, but if you are going to top coat with another finish, you may want a dewaxed shellac to improve adhesion of the top coat. You can see the wax settle out to the bottom of a container of shellac as cloudy. Waxed shellac has less water--resistance than dewaxed. The solvent for shellac is alcohol. Normally we use denatured alcohol – ethanol (grain alcohol) with a bit of methanol (wood alcohol) added to render it unfit for human consumption Shellac, like lacquer, cures by evaporation of the thinner and will re-dissolve in it. As a benefit, when you apply multiple applications of a shellac, it melts into the lower layers and becomes in essence, one layer. Compare this with a varnish where the layers remain separate. Shellac was a common finish used in production furniture and cabinetry for 100 years until the introduction of lacquer following WWI. By WWII, lacquer had mostly replaced shellac as production finish. The introduction of synthetic varnishes following WWII for the hobbyist further reduced the demand. Zinsser if the major importer of shellac products from Asia via Germany where most of the refinement is done. There are a few “boutique” suppliers of shellac products. Characteristics Shellac is a fast drying and hard finish. It is slightly acidic. Shellac is usually listed by “cut.” For example, a 2 pound cut is two pounds of flakes in 1 gallon of alcohol. You don’t need to mix a whole gallon though, just as much as you need. For example, if you need a bit of 2 lb cut, mix ½ lb in one quart, or ¼ lb in one pint, etc. Add the flakes to the alcohol, mix or shake periodically and allow to sit for a few hours to overnight. Prior to use, filter with a finish filter to remove any impurities and undissolved resin. Do not use metal cans for this as the shellac can react with the metal. I like to use jars that pickles or tomato sauce has some in because the lids have an acid-resistant liner. You can dewax your waxed shellac by letting the wax settle out, then decanting off the top. However, I prefer not to throw away half the product when I can just buy dewaxed flakes. SealCoat and Zinsser Aerosol Shellac come dewaxed; Bulls Eye (also from Zinsser) Amber and Clear are waxed shellacs. Bulls Eye are 3 lb cuts and shelf life about a year. SealCoat is a 2 lb cut and longer shelf life. Canned and flake shellac: (photo credit Popular Woodworking / Bob Flexner) The price of shellac has increased in the last few years because of “crop failure.” It is slowly inching back down after some better years. One drawback of shellac is shelf life. Once dissolved, it slowly degrades by a process called esterification. The result is the finish will never fully harden. Test home-mixed shellacs after six months and watch carefully after 12 months. Test by putting a puddle on some wood and check in few hours. If it’s not hardened by then, it probably won’t ever fully harden, throw it out. So if you are mixing your own, don’t do more than you will need in the short-term and label the mix date. Pre-mixed shellac, Zinsser Seal Coat (used to, no longer does) guarantee 3 year shelf life from point of manufacture, and I’ve used some 4 years old with good results. Unfortunately, they, from time to time will change their dating code and what you pick up at Home Depot may already be past its “use by” date. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/user-unfriendly-zinsser-bulls-eye-shellac. If I’m refinishing a piece and even suspect silicone oil contamination from Pledge furniture polish, I’ll apply a coat of shellac before moving on to my selected finish. Also if I’m working on a resinous wood like teak or aromatic cedar (that can affect and soften finishes), I’ll add shellac as a barrier. If the wood smells, either on its own or by external factors such as urine, Shellac will seal it in. Shellac will seal in the resins of pine knots that will otherwise bleed through the finish (especially obvious with paint). I do a lot of water-borne finishes. These can be sort of cool, almost blue, unlike the amber that we’re used to. They may also not bring out some of the grain depth and shimmer (chatoyance) that we love to see. A coat of two of shellac under the w/b finish will add good looks to your finish, especially if you are not using a stain. Pros Very fast drying, 30 minutes or less Very fast application when spraying Color from clear to darker, depending on degree of refinement Hardness facilitates rubbing out to a high gloss sheen (or any other sheen) Easy to repair Easy to strip Compatible with almost any top coat (when shellac is de-waxed) Excellent “barrier coat” sealer for knot resins, odors, wood extractives, silicone contamination, wax, Seals in smoke, pet urine, or musty odors inside vintage case goods. Adds beautiful chatoyance to woods, adding depth and “dancing figure.” Can be used (highly thinned) as a wash coat to control stains Can be used as a sanding sealer coat No lingering smell so perfect for insides of boxes and cabinets Does not darken or orange with age Available in different colors from garnet to super-blonde Cons Generally only available in gloss, though you can rub out to a lower sheen. Not as much resistance to water, alkalis, or alcohol Applied too thickly, it can become brittle. Limited shelf life once dissolved. Application Like most finishes, there are three ways to apply shellac. I find the first coat of shellac will raise the grain a little bit. So I sand after it’s dried and has stiffened the fibers up (“burying the grain.”) Spray Spray on coats overlapping half as you go. It is not necessary for each coat to fully dry before adding another coat. Air movement will help the evaporation of the solvents. Shellac is available in aerosol cans for small jobs. Brush You can brush on shellac easily with a natural bristle brush. Just don’t put it on too heavy on each coat or it can curtain or run. Get it on and don’t keep going back over it because It dries so fast. You don’t even need to clean the brush, just let it dry and put in a can of denatured alcohol. If you do want to clean the brush, rinse in denatured alcohol. You can also mix up some TSP in water and wash the brush. The alkali in TSP will break down the shellac (and turn it purple.) Most foam brushes will not work for shellac. Cloth You can pad on shellac. I’ve used this to restore an old finish after cleaning, abrading, or removing blush. Lightly dampened rag wiped quickly. There’s also an advanced method called “French Polishing” that combines shellac, a bit of abrasive such as pumice, and a bit of oil for lubrication. Continuous wiping with a rag where the finish dries in what is described as “comet tails.” Essentially thousands of applications of the finish built up to a high-gloss, high-end finish. Not one I’ve even tried, no less mastered. Fixing Goofs Drips and runs are easy to repair. Let them harden, sand or scrape level and apply another application which will dissolve and blend into one coat. Another common problem is blushing. This occurs in hot & humid conditions where the water vapor gets trapped in the finish while the solvents evaporate. Finishes that have been on for many years tend to blush (water mark) easier. Wipe with a rag dampened in alcohol and the blush will normally disappear before your eyes. If you wish, pad on a top coat to restore the luster. Summary: Try it, you’ll like it. Further reading: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/the_case_for_shellac http://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/finishing/502292-shellac-as-a-sealer-its-all-just-hype https://paulsellers.com/2011/04/how-to-apply-shellac-as-practical-wood-finish/ http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/shellac2.html
  8. cherrysidetable(Medium).jpg

    From the album Furniture and tables

    Cherry side table design made by modifying a NYW plan for a shave stand and adding a drawer.
  9. bookstandmed.JPG

    From the album Furniture and tables

    David Marks Design with cross added . Made in Cherry
  10. Printed Labels

    I have a question about the printed labels from a Brother brand label maker - The labels are peel and stick and would there be a problem with the labels staying stuck on shellac? Thanks in advance,
  11. Side Table

    This is a side table I did based on a shaving stand Norm did on NYW. I used sliding dovetails for the side and bottom and to put the top on . The drawers have my first try at handcut dovetails. The only screws in the piece are in the base to attach it to the drawer box and in the drawer runners. The top had a nice figure in it which I did not see till I applied the shellac. Also my first time to french polish with shellac. The garnet shellac (the only finish) will even out the color of cherry so even the sapwood will not look so bright.
  12. Cardinal Bank

    This is my latest bank.  A customer wanted a Cardinal Bank for her son and this is what I came up with. The bank is 7 inches long x 9 inches tall x 3 3/4 inches thick.  I glued up 5 layers of clear pine to get the required thickness and then sanded and shaped the bank to its final shape.  I then painted it with water based acrylic paints then sealed with shellac.     DW
  13. 5 Scallop Cedar Bowl

    Recently I was given a 12 inch wide 10 foot board that was 1 inch thick.  It was stored out in the weather for several years.  Upon cleaning up the board including all the cupping I found that this was a cedar board and that the grain had been brought out most dramatically. I decided to make a bowl with it.  This bowl is 10 inches in diameter and 3 3/4 inches tall.  This bowl was totally cut using the scroll saw.  The rings were cut at 22.5 degrees.  The bowl was sealed with tung oil then top coated with 4 coats of satin lacquer.     DW
  14. Lectern - Finished

    I was ask to build this lectern for a friend that got his first teaching job. It is made with a solid Cherry center post, base and the top is Cherry, Walnut and Maple. The top is 24" wide and 16" tall. The Lectern is about 34" tall and top is at a 20 degree angle. The pencil holder at the bottom of the top is walnut. I sprayed it with four coats of clear Shellac and then three coats of Enduro-Var Satin Finish.
  15. I got a little shop time yesterday! So I thought I'd make a little something for our daughter's violin teacher, she has taken it upon herself to give our daughter lessons pro bono, but we could not have that so I told every now and then I'd get something out of the shop for her. We are starting small at first so I can get an idea of her tastes, once I know what she likes in her home (mountain cabin with cedar walls) then we'll get more extravagant. I decided on a simple little shaker style wall shelf with sliding dovetails. Of course every project starts out with a plank of wood! Then with a couple simple layout tools we can commence to just having some fun and layout some lines. It takes me a few tries before I get something that looks pleasing. It is purely a personal thing, and even after I do the layout and it all looks good on wood, I really don't know what I will think about it until I get it cut out and set it up to see how the proportions look. The idea here is to just have fun with it. After about a dozen tries I finally came out with some lines I enjoy. This photo is the bottom of the wall shelf. You can click on this one to view it larger to see the line. This next photo is the top of the shelf, I loved how this one turned out, I tried some tighter radius's and a thinner top portion, but then I went bold and just used my string bow for the radius. Click on photo for larger image. I cut the first half out on the band saw, I only like cutting up to the line about a 1/6th proud, I am horrible at following a line on the line, if I try to cut to the line I typically cut over it and blow the layout, I am one of those unfortunates that do not have a good eye and steady feed to be able to cut right to the line so I leave the line in place, and spindle sand or plane to the line. Below you'll see the first half is finished, and it is laid up over the second half to mark out. I am pleased with the appearance of the layout after it has been cut out. I have a Porter Cable 4210 Dovetail Jig that is really handy for these smaller jobs. I like to use the sliding dovetail feature instead of dadoing the shelves in. I like the way the sliding dovetail lends that extra level of assurance that the shelves will not separate from the sides of case work like this. Think about it, an interlocking shelf that with all your might you could not pull apart even before it is glued up, then you add glue, and it would take a herculean effort to pull the sides away from the shelf, I like to make projects to last lifetimes, to hand down to generations. I know this is just a simple shelf, but 150 years from now, it will still be in one piece bar any disaster such as fire or landfill. You could drop this from 10 feet up and it will not separate. I like to think that anything I do will age and gain a rich patina, and the marks of wear from a century of knick knacks along with salt and pepper shakers that will have inhabited the shelf. I like to do my runs in sets, to assure that the two Dovetail slots will line up perfectly. So I clamp my halves together and then I insert the halves in the jig. These halves will stay clamped together for the duration of the slotting operations. You want to be sure you position the clamp in a manner that you do not have to pull it off to make room for the next operation. If you do have to pull it off, you'll need to use a second clamp to secure the boards before you pull off the first clamp. Click on image to enlarge. Just another shot of the two boards in position, the dovetail slot is the longer narrow area in the middle of the template. Now the Porter Cable 4210 Dovetail Jighas a handy little feature just like the bigger jigs do, a router bit depth stop. The depth stop is marked out accordingly, 1/4" for routing dovetail slots in 1/2" lumber, 3/8" for routing slots in 3/4" lumber, and 1/2" for routing slots in 1" lumber. I forgot to say, the PC 4210 comes with bushings and a dovetail bit that are suited for this jig. In this case I set my router bit depth to 3/8", I planed my lumber for the sides to 5/8" to give the shelf some depth and difference in the parts, and I wanted the slot to be routed as deep as possible without compromising the integrity of the sides. Click image to enlarge. With the halves in place and the boards set to the line in the jig ,and the bit depth set, the operation was completed, I am sorry I did not get any pictures of the actual operation, but it would have been difficult to hold the camera in one hand and the router in the other! TIP:When you route the slot, come in from both sides as to prevent tear out. Start from one side, cut the slot length about 90 percent, back your router back down the slot to exit, then come in from the opposite side, this will prevent unsightly blow out of the edges. One slot cut one to go. As you can see the two halves are still clamped up! You want to keep them clamped up until your finished with the slot cutting operations. Now the two halves are rotated 180 degrees (on this piece because of the location of the slots, yours will differ) with some operations you can keep feeding the work in one direction until you run out of room or support, but with this small shelf, it had to be rotated. The opposite end is now in the jig, and just for assurance, even though I drew my lines out accurately, I check the board for squareness in relation to the jig. And the second slot is cut just as the first one was. TIP: Do any sanding of the surface of the slotted boards before you slot them! If you sand them after you slot them, you'll ruin the reference to the dovetailed boards, and you'll create an unsightly gap between the ends of the shelves and the surface of the slotted board. Now with my slots cut and clamp removed I set the two halves out of the way and I get set for the routing operation of the shelf ends for the dovetail style profile. I start off with a piece of scrap the exact same thickness as the shelves. TIP: If your going to thickness plane the shelves, make sure you plane a piece of scrap at the same time to use for a test run in this procedure. In my case, I did not plane the shelves, so I was able to use a cutoff from the band saw operation. This portion of the entire operation is the only time you'll need to make some minor adjustments. The routing of the slots is straight forward, it is what it is, set the depth of the bit, line em up and cut. Routing the ends of the shelves is where all adjustments are made. Set the scrap piece in the jig up to the template, keeping your router bit at the same depth throughout the entire procedure, make your first test cut. Remove your test piece and see how it fits! As you can see my first test run turned out a sloppy fitting joint. Click image to enlarge. To adjust this slop out, you'll need to adjust the black knob, then the brass knob, it only takes a slight twist clockwise of both knobs on each side of the jig to take up the slop, what this does is cut less of the material away by putting more of the lumber under the aluminum jig. You'll have to flip your test piece over or cut off the one end to make a new cut. Since I have slop, there is no re-using the same cut end. If it were too tight, I could turn the knobs counter clockwise, bring the board out from under the template thus cutting more away. Sorry for the poor picture quality on this one, but you can see the adjusting knobs. Ahhhh, perfect fit now!!! You don't want the fit to be snug, you want to be able to slide the piece with some resistance, but not a whole lot, you'll need some room for the glue, and if your doing a multiple shelf glue up you'll be thankful you gave yourself some room, if you don't leave the room, your glue can freeze up the joint before you get it all in place. Now we are ready for the actual shelf to be cut, the shelf is in place. And the first cut is performed. Click on image to enlarge. Once you get it all set up, the rest goes quickly, I routed the ends of my two shelves in 3 minutes. So, with the shelves now routed, the sides are slotted, we are getting ready for glue up. The rest is academic, we all know how to spread glue and insert board "A" into board "B". The only thing I would recommend here is to do a dry fit first, sometimes the boards might fit a little too snug, in which case all I do is wrap some 220 sandpaper around a paint stirrer sized stick and sand the insides of the slots to allow a little more room for the board to slide in. Use plenty of glue, to allow for lubrication while sliding the joints in place. The natural instinct is to use too little,we think that just because it is an interlocking joint that a lil dab will so ya. That may be so, but that lil dab will do ya philosophy will get you in trouble as you slide the joints in place and it freezes up on you half way through. Once the boards are in place, clamp it all up! This project up to this point took me about 2 hrs to complete, it is a simple project, fun to wind down with and you are able to freestyle it. No plans, just your eye. If I would change anything about this one, I would rip the board down to 4" instead of 6" for proportional sake only. Nevertheless I think she'll be happy with the small shelf for the wall of her mountain cabin. The dimensions are 28" tall by 18" wide and 6" deep. Though the routing setup and operation seemed like it took awhile in the tutorial, it actually only took about a half hr for setup, test cut, and final cutting. Once you get to know the jig just like with any jig, it all goes fast. Today I will sand it out to 180, apply some TransFast Early American Maple Dye and we'll talk about the rest of the finishing process in the next post! Thanks all for reading!

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