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Found 18 results

  1. As some of you know, my sister has made it her life's work to make sure I get to heaven- fat chance! This time, she has me making a tithe box and shelf for her minister's church. I worked with him thru emails and Sketchup drawings to get the approval on the design/materials/hardware. The box is 1/2" thick birch and walnut stock with hand cut dovetails. Top and bottom are mounted in dados. The top is flush with the sides and the bottom is slightly recessed. The shelf is 3/4" birch plywood with shop made walnut edging. The hardware is a half mortised lock and a 110° stopped piano hinge. The minister has someone in the congregation do the finishing. The box is about 14" L x 7" W x 6" H. I did hit the walnut with mineral spirits to see what the grain would look like with finish- Thanks for looking!
  2. Starting a new project a head shaped bookshelf made from red oak. The customer could not find anyone that would even consider doing this project for him. I got the design finalized and emailed the itemized bid to him and I was kind of hoping my bid would scare him into not doing the project but all he said was do you want half to start. This is the design he accepted. It will be about 3 1/2 feet wide, 5 1/2 feet tall and 11 1/2 inches deep.
  3. From the album DerBengel's Scrapbook

    I decided the space above the sink could use a shelf and I decided to use plumbing instead of normal brackets. A typical bracket would take up too much length not allowing clearance for my tall bottles. I used 2 1/2" floor flanges, 2 10" nipples and 2 end caps. Just cut a board to size and made a permanent home for a few items.

    © © Cindy Trine

  4. Walnut Project Finished

    I was recently contacted about building a Walnut vanity and a Walnut Shelf to fit over a range hood. So so I was sent these two pictures and ask if I could do these. So I got started by gluing up several boards to make the vanity 24" deep and 41 3/4" wide. The boards are 1 1/4" thick and a piece is glued on the front to give it the appearance of being 2 1/2". finish was applied this week and it was picked up today to install. The Shelf is 1 1/2" thick 7" deep and 32" wide. It to was picked up today and installed. So i can now mark this one off the list and move on to the next one in waiting. I love it it when a plan come together.
  5. bottom shelf detail

    From the album Pine Kitchen Island

    A look at the bottom shelf ( Mountain Dew Storage). Had to BUY some 1x3 pine. Made a rebate with a Wards #78 rebate plane to house the 1/4" thick plywood panel. There is just a thin (1/8") lip around the edges, to hide the plywood's end grain. Glue and brads to attach.
  6. That pile of pine boards?

    Getting a bit closer to the finish line, now. Got the top all fsatened down. But, it didn't go without a fight... Made some cleats, one for each end to also act as kickers for the drawers and one for across the center. Hmmm something a little off here...ok. Put the top top down on the bench. Put the base into place....ah, base is "racked" a bit. Got the center line set, and added a screw through the cleats ( and, it turns out, right on through the top..oops) then grabbed a long clamp. set at a diagonal, the idea is to pull the "long" direction back into square. Well almost. And then, after grinding the screws a 1/2" shorter and making skinny pilot holes, screwed the rest down. Cleats were screw and glued to the aprons, a ;look at the mess? The center cleat. Note on the apron where two holes are? Counter-bored to accept plugs later( Walnut, Cherry, or Pine?) The cleat on an end? Ah, three holes? well, when the center strips out, one adds a few more. Someday, this shop will have the right sized screws for the job, maybe. Flipped the unit up on the bottom stretchers Looking a bit better? The ugly hole will get a drawer in it later, I HOPE. Anyway. with the unit sitting up where I can actually work on it, and see what I am doing. Needed to size, at least roughly, a plywood panel. Tape measure to find the length and widths. A 4' level as a straight edge ( works good, as long as it doesn't MOVE on you) and get out a vintage saw or two... Yep, an all metal Sears Craftsman 7-1/4" saw. Sitting on the off-cuts. Never mind that can... Needed to cut notches, though, as the legs wanted to "intrude" on things Took the now sized panel and marked where the notches will be Once all four were marked up, clamped the panel back down to the bench, again. And grabbed yet another "Vintage saw" When was the last time B&D made an all metal sabre saw? Ok, got the four notches cut And tried a test fit.....hmm, straight edge must have moved? Needed to scribe a line from 1/4" down to zero along the one edge. Clamped the panel back onto the bench, circular saw to cut the line. Another test fit....will work, IF I set it in a certain way. Filled the rebates with Elmers, set the panel in....and reset the panel in, Hammer to persuade things a bit. Nailed the panel down with 5/8" brads held with needle nose pliers ( aka finger savers). Then a palm sander to sand the plywood a bit as it was rough. Went over all flat areas with a sander and 60 grit squares. Looking a little better, now and added some feet to the legs To save the kitchen floor. Next up? Well, after all that dust settles, might try my hand at drawer making......stay tuned to this Very Batty Channel.....
  7. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    Young Patriot Woodworkers, they are not ready to see this one leave our shop. As with any project that takes time, it becomes part of the family, and the kids always hate to see it leave the shop.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  8. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    The customers pewter molds on full display. The pewter molds are one area of his vast collections of antique in his home. These molds were used to make breads, bread puddings, and puddings, in the shape of the molds.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  9. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    The curls are wonderful in this lumber, thank you Bob Kloes.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  10. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    In place at a home where the resident loves colonial works, and this piece fit right in.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  11. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    The cabinet in place at its final resting place, with pewter molds in place. You'll see the tails are cut into the side of the cabinet and exposed, I set the tails on the side of the cabinet to lend it downward strength, the mechanics of the joinery will not allow any weight to push down and separate the corners.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  12. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    Finished and ready for delivery. My go to finishing schedule for most of my flat work is water based dyes for color, followed by a coat of boiled linseed oil, then oil based varnish. I still love the warmth and glow of oil based varnishes, it has a warmth that I love.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  13. English China Plate Cabinet (Rear)

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    In all my work, I always make the unseen areas just as finished as the seen areas, I think it makes it more custom and refined when you can look all over the work, and see a finished side instead of unfinished.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  14. Built Up Crown Molding

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    The crown is built up, by using traditional methods of building crown, just as it was done the old days, they did not have power nor molding knives, so just as they did, we did, by shaping each facet of the crown as an independent piece, then applying them on top of each other.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  15. English China Plate Shelf Before Finish (Front)

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    After the shelf was assembled I shot the customer some progress images, I put a nice Lie Nielsen No.4 Bronze on the second shelf along with a couple of his pewter molds in the cabinet. The joinery used for this project was sliding dovetails for all shelf's to side wall joints, and dovetailed carcass corners.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  16. Photo Submitted by our Customer

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    This image was supplied by our customer, he wanted us to capture the feel of this 18th Century English China Shelf. He saw the shelf at auction, the auction was taking place in Europe, but he thoughtfully realized that the cost of the shelf, including shipping to the states, was getting a tad high, so he sought us out as we had done work for him in the past, and thought of us as his builder. And we are glad he did, we had a blast making it. I used the image to scale the shelf, considering his desire to make it 48" wide by 40" tall, I was able to scale it out on grid paper and duplicate much of the details and the proportions.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  17. Last week we wrapped up our pine cabinets and the final coat of pain on them, and final rub down of the interior shellac finish. That weekend I was able to get the cabinets installed with the butcher block counter tops over the lower base and over the washer and dryer. Here a couple links of the cabinet build from an earlier time. Pine Cabinets Shaker Style Part 1 Pine Cabinets Shaker Style Part 2 How to Make an Adjustable Sawtooth Shelf System Photo below is the upper cabinet, doors yet to be installed. I like to back my cabinets, most folks do not. They'll leave the backs off leaving the wall behind exposed. I don't like seeing walls, I like seeing something really nice behind the dishes and glassware, in this case it is being used for storage in a wash room, but I'll still pay the same attention to detail, Photo below, I just set one of the doors in place so we could see what is going in. I cut the doors the exact same dimensions as the openings, then I planed each one down to fit exactly in its assigned opening. The doors are inset flush so the reveal (gap) around the door had to be perfect, if not it stands out like a sore thumb. There are advantages and disadvantages to the inset door, as mentioned, the reveal has to be perfect, but the advantage is easy hinge application, in this case I used colonial style butterfly hinges surface mount. Photo below, the two main cabinets installed, the lower and upper along with the butcher block counter top. These are shown with out any trim-out to hide the unsightly gaps at the ceilings and walls, where the drywall is undulating. I trimmed it out with 1/4" by 3/4" strips of wood. Very simple, no crown, the entire home is Early American, the customer is an antique collector and loves simplicity. Photo below, butcher block counter over the appliances. I routed in some 3/4" dadoes at the bottom ends of the counter tops and secured cleats to the side walls, the counter tops are sitting on those cleats, I was able to get the counter top virtually on top of the washer and dryer by routing in those dadoes and resting the top on the cleats in that manner, also since the top is only resting on the cleats, it can be removed for appliance service if need be. Since these photos were taken, I have installed all the trim, back-splash's at the sink cabinet and the appliance counter top, the doors are installed, and it looks very nice. I also built onsite the upper cabinet over the appliances above the window two weeks ago, and I'll need to go back and install the door for that cabinet, at that time I'll get some finish shots, it looks awesome right now. Thanks for hanging in there!
  18. For my latest project building some pine cabinets for a customer of mine, he has requested that the upper cabinet has a sawtooth shelf support system. He loves the old timey look it offers, and I like it too. Sawtooth Shelf supports come in various sizes, various angles are used for aesthetics, and you are not even regulated to sawtooth configurations, you can angle the notches at virtually any angle you like. It appears the builder of the supports in this image to the left angled their notches at around 15 degrees. We angled ours at 45 degrees. So yesterday I took to laying out and cutting the sawtooth adjustable shelve supports. I did not use any specific dimensions for the layout as you'll see, I just went with what I thought would work, and offer enough strength for the heaviest of loads in my customers cabinet. In our case the upper cabinet is 41" tall with an inside height of 35 inches. So I ripped down 4 pieces of pine at 2" in width and I cross cut them on my miter saw at 36 inches in length just to allow for some custom fitting after they are made. It is very important to make sure that the entire operation is done while the 4 support blanks are grouped as one, this way you are ensured that when the supports are installed, the notches will be directly across from each other and you will not have wobbly shelves due to mis-aligned sawtooth notches. So to keep my orientation good, I bundled them together and secured them with blue tape, I then trimmed them together so we have a reference point that agrees with all the blanks. Next I laid out the notches with a simple marking square, I did not even bother with measuring as the eye will never be able to tell if one notch is a 1/6" different from the next, and since they are all ganged up together, the notches will be directly across from each other once installed in the cabinet, so they will all be off a tad equally. For this one I laid them out using the default 45 degrees available on this square, and I drew the line to what I felt was a comfortable distance about 1 1/2" long at 45 degrees. The numbers on the rule mean absolutely nothing so don't get hung up on the numbers. Flip the square for the 90 degree lines and intersect them. Continue this layout procedure all the way down the board. By the way, I marked lines across the board at 6" from the top, and 6" from the bottom, since it is highly unlikely a shelf would be placed that close to the top or bottom of the cabinet. So I started my layout at 6" from the top, and worked my way down to the bottom to the 6" mark. It only took a few minutes to get my layout lines down and ready for the table saw. I did my 45 degree cuts first, I don't know why, it just moved me to do them first for some reason. You must take care not to let the kerf of the blade float into the other layout line, or you'll have some very ugly notches. Then I set the blade at 90 degrees and commenced to cutting those lines, again, just because you have lines that are (insert dimension here) long, it does not mean you can set your blade at that height, you need to stay away from the layout line at the intersections or the points, or you'll have a very messed up looking point, we are going to clean that area up next to form a nice point. By the way I am using my factory provided table saw miter with a backer board for the above operation. A close up of the finished table saw operation will show you why I stated to stay away from the tip of the notches! If you cut to the tip, you will intersect the blade kerfs and it will cause some irreversible damage to your nice notches. Next I took the gang of 4 to the bandsaw and finished up the notches to intersect the tips of the notches nicely. I happened to have my 3/4" resaw blade on the BS so I just left it on there, and it worked out great. You'll notice the small problem I ran into, I could only finish the notches near the ends of the boards as the other end of the bundle would hit the yolk on the BS. So I could not get to the middle of the shelf supports to clean them up by the bandsaw. So to finish the cut on the notches near the center of the bundle, I took to a gents saw and a chisel and finished them up that way. I clamped the boards down to the bench for two reasons, first to secure them obviously, second, I wanted them all to be flush so when we finish up the notches by hand, they will be cut the exact same depth. Pare down to the intersecting lines after you have cut them with the saw. To finish them up and make my sawtooths look nice and clean, I ripped a 45 into a strip of pine and wrapped sand paper around it and used it like a sanding file of sorts to get right down in there and make them look nice and crisp. The last step I took is to cut the tips of the teeth off. I feel that if we did not do this, they would just get knocked off during normal use anyway (and, that is just the way they are supposed to look judging by other cabinets I researched.) Notice the grain direction in relation to the tips in the photo above, that is just asking for trouble for those points to be knocked off during use. I took the ganged up boards, back over to the table saw and I ripped a 1/4" off the teeth, leaving a net width of 1 3/4" from when we started at 2" at the beginning of our shelf support project. I only cut two boards deep at a time, since I have a 12" blade on my TS I could have done the entire stack in one pass, but I know that most woodworkers run a 10" blade on their TS and I was not sure if a 10" blade could cut 3" stack of boards in one pass so for the sake of our readers, I did it in two passes. Cut one side and flip it over, and cut the other. And now we have some nice looking sawtooth shelf supports!!! The only thing we need to do is cut 4 sticks of pine 45'd at both ends since I have two shelfs going in to the cabinet, we need two supports for each shelf. I will cut those sticks once the vertical supports are in place in the cabinet. Total time for these shelf supports were 1 hour. And we have some very strong, nice looking supports that will add an awe factor to any case project you may have.

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