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Found 20 results

  1. It finally got above freezing the past couple of days but the basement shop is lagging behind in the warm up. @Ksvet06 posed a question about sharpening lathe tools. He asked about grinders and sharpening jigs. Please look over his post and the responses. Let's give Zach all the help we can- @Gerald is working on hollow forms for the Beads of Courage (BOC) project- Check out what he has done for this very special cause- @Smallpatch is recreating a couple of chess pieces for a customer- Although Jesse says he's not a turner, you would never know it by how well these turned out! He tells us about the adventure here- When I used to use my diamond parting tool, it almost always gave me a ragged surface. Here's a video from Rick Turns illustrating how to regrind the parting tool for a cleaner cut- I must admit, I've abandoned my diamond parting tool in favor of the Easy Wood Tools parting tool. It creates clean cuts, no vibration and because it's a carbide tip- stays sharp a LONG time. In Last week's "Wednesday's..." we mentioned @Steve Krumanaker had a mishap when he inadvertently turned off his vacuum system. That got me to wondering if a shop made vacuum could be built. I found this PDF for making an inexpensive system. Not sure if I'll try it but thought it might give someone an idea. I believe the author is in England because the costs are in pounds and dimensions are metric. http://www.gaw.org.uk/blog/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Vacuum-chuck-for-£10-or-less.pdf The Woodturning OnLine newsletter arrived last week. As always there are interesting projects, articles and equipment. While scanning the "New and Hot" section I noticed this little jewel- Looks like this laser could be adapted to most any tool. It is available through Tim Yoders' site- http://www.wtwtim.com/elbotool.htm about half way down the page. The entire newsletter is at- http://www.woodturningonline.com/ Finally, here's an older video from Carl Jacobson turning a lidded vessel. Notice his use of the Easy Wood Tools hollower and the fantastic Easy Wood Chuck! Safe turning
  2. Sharpening question

    I know there are 2 different type of bench grinders. High speed and low speed. Plus jigs to get the correct angles. Are you able to sharpen on a high speed bench grinder too?
  3. sharpening tools

    Okay Master of the great wood turner, lathe tool sharpening queries.... I have both a grinder and a table top belt sander. which do you think is better to use for a beginner and which grit for the sander and grind wheel. i was watching videos but they dont tell me. so i am looking to the masters for help.
  4. Stanley #71

    Do any of you guys know an easy way to sharpen the cutters on a #71?
  5. Phil Lowe Chisel Work

    Short & sweet. And that's one wicked sharp chisel (said with Bawston accent) http://www.finewoodworking.com/2014/10/01/chisel-tricks-for-hand-cut-joinery
  6. Spending some time today sharpening chisels and plane blades. I was never very good, nor found a good way to sharpen. Then I got a Worksharp 3000 for Christmas one year. I love it. For those not familiar, it uses various grades of sandpaper on rotating glass plates to sharpen such blades. Think "scary sharp" method of sharpening. A jig holds the blade at one of 4 fixed angles 25,28,30, and 35 degrees, includes sandpaper to take off the burr and a heat sink. Pretty much idiot-proof if you can hold the tool against a fence and not go crazy on it. https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WS3000-Wood-Sharpener/dp/B000PVHIMW Then a few years later, I was at Hartville Hardware's fall show where they were demonstrating their knife and tool sharpener. Similar concept but with a 3/8" or so sanding belts, and guides to hold your tool at the correct angle. Went on my Xmas list for that year. Just a couple of swipes on each grit and you are sharp. I shared this with an upholstery group I'm on and a bunch of them bought the tools and used them for all sorts of things, not only scissors, but die cutters, cutting wheels, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSKTS-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B003IT5F14 Fast forward another year to an auction where a Drill Dr. got snagged for $30. I could not justify the price for the need I have for twist bits, but at that price, I jumped and sharpened several sets of twist bits for less than the price of replacing them. https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Doctor-DD750X-Bit-Sharpener/dp/B000BKTA00 Only showing Amazon because of widely available and comes up early on my searches. All in all, good company and good products.
  7. Saw-Stop in a handsaw?

    Well, lets see, got out the Saw Vise Squad.. Ol' No. 1 was set up and used.. As this old saw needed some work on the teeth. Saw file was sent along.. As this was it's second saw, we had Back Up available.. But the file was no rookie, and came through without any problems , will get the back up file for another time Decided to at least give these usual suspects a chance to show what they could do.. 6 ppi, filed rip. Got out a 1 x 1 pine scrap, as a test.. But, it turned into a Crime Scene. Saw was hard to start, but once it did, it cut very fast....so fast that the hand that was holding the scrap steady for the start , got caught up in the action... One swipe...was enough to trigger the "Saw_Stop Sensor" Teeth were drifting to the left in the cut, still had burrs on the teeth on that side, stoned the burrs off. Should be ready to go, next time around. Decided to work on something a little safer, got out the leather strop, and the brand new Green Stick, and honed a few chisels....that way, only the strop can get cut.. So, they all should be ready to go, for the next project....I hope. Needs a new bandaid....and a beer...
  8. question for Jim of easy tools

    @Jim from Easy Wood Tools I use carbon steel cutters/tools to turn with and like them a lot. I liked your comments on these and home made cutters. I do have a question. When I take mine out and run them over diamond dust stones.......................am I really sharpening them or am I fooling myself. I can see tiny scratches all over the cutter bit
  9. Sharpening a plane iron

    I have learned just enough to be dangerous. I watched several of Paul Sellers' videos on sharpening various things. I had no idea that it is advisable if not a must to initialize brand new planes and chisels. I have several of my chisels and both of my planes shining like a mirror and have a fair amount of razor burn on my arm from testing the sharpness. They are SHARP. My question is this. I think I understood Mr. Sellers to have said initialize at 25* and then sharpen at 30*. Why? Also, I took apart one of my Lowes block planes (don't make fun of me) and I am not sure if the bevel was up or down. Does it matter? If so, how do I figure out which way it goes?
  10. CBN Wheels

    What are your opinions of radius edge CBN wheels vs straight edge wheels?
  11. A different type of sharpening thread?

    Over at the Neanderthal Haven site, there is currently a thread going on about sharpening... Your Ice Scrapers Yep. Posts include the usual about back bevels, flattenning the backs, Bevel up or bevel down. One poster even uses a block plane to refresh the bevel. Others worrying about how sandpaper on a flat board would leave grit inbedded in the scraper's surface, and scratch the glass.. Yep, normal sharpening thread over there...
  12. A plane with a wooden body?

    Well, some fellow named Gump...tion found me, and hauled me off to the shop today.. And I am plumb worn out. Glad this isn't an everyday thing. Anyway, there is a plane in the shop, in need of a "bit of work" (where have I heard that one, before?) to make it at least try to do it's job.. A strange looking beastie? I had already done it's "twin" last spring. This one was put on hold, as some of the parts were loaners. Rear handle is a Walnut one I had made for another plane. The chipbreaker is a Stanley orphan. The rest is called an Ohio Tool Co. No.035. Almost the same as a Stanley #35....almost being the operative word. The plane as is can rock back and forth, only the area around the mouth can touch the wood, sometimes. It won't take a shaving.. I backed the iron all the way out, drew some lines. A few trips on the beltsander.....The high spot was from the mouth to about halfway to the tail end. I was going to leave everything in place for the next step...but, I didn't want to hit anything NOT wood.. Stanley 5-1/2 took things down to FLAT. Wood body wanted to squirm around a bit. But, finally a straight edge showed how things were... ThenI ran the palmsander around, to knocked some sharp corners, and a few nasty spots on the sides and top.. Now, there is ONE bolt in this entire plane, other than the one for the depth adjuster. The rear handle has one like a normal plane, but everything else is large screws. Which I used a wire wheel in the drill press to clean off. Lever cap had rust the needed to leave.. Wire wheel to shine things up. This is how they are supposed to look. Frame needed some new paint.. As did the frog. Wire wheel to remove the bad spots, and the rust. Rattle can black.. Set aside to dry. There was plenty of time to dry, too, as I had this thing to do, next.. Yep, that is a Tapered Iron. Not sure if this one is laminated or not....Drug out the sharpening stuff. After awhile riding the beltsander.... Angle WAS @ 25degrees, had to raise it a bit..maybe to 28 degrees.. I'd run the bevel till too hot for fingertips, dunk in the water, run the back a bit, dunk, and so on, until I thought is was ready for the stone.. Same as the other day..600 grit stone, 1K grit paper, 2K grit paper. Working the bevel and the back....then a lot of swipes on the old belt.. Back of the iron is flat and polished, curve on the chipbreaker as well.. I think that will do for the edge? Like I said earlier, the chipbreaker is a loaner. Bolt is not designed for the tapered irons. The slot for the depth adjuster is in the wrong spot as well. We make do in this shop, though. Somehow got this back together. and started the re-assembly. Paint was a hair tacky.... All but the long handle bolt are sloted screws. Finally got everthing back in place... And a coat of the BLO/Varnish mix on the wood parts..except the sole. it will get a coat of wax. Before the blo/varnish arrived, gave this a test drive,, Oh, it will peel shavings, alright. I need to get an Ohio Tool Co. chipbreaker to help set the depth better....than tapping things with a hammer. Not too bad, for a $1 plane. While I had the brush and Mix out, I cleaned off all the crud from another old plane.. A Stanley No.28 small jointer plane. It has "Bailey" cast around the front knob. I won this and a #29 at an auction last year....for the grand total of $5 for the pair. #29 is awaiting replacement parts. Might be awhile.... Sooo, now you know WHY I am all tuckered out, today...( still don't have a beer in the house, let alone in the fridge..)
  13. Plane Iron rehab

    Trying to type this and eat supper ( my own cooking) at the same time....so, here goes. been having a bit of trouble with one of the planes.. As the lateral lever kept going to the side as I used the plane, just to get an even shaving... Leaning way to one side. Was having trouble with stuff getting jambed up, as well. Took the plane apart.. Look like a mismatch going on. Took things apart.. Back has a hollow to it. Chipbreaker has burrs.. Edge of the iron was a little out of square, too. Set up the first tool I use for this,, Have the platten set to about 25 degrees or so. I also had a big bowl of water handy Hollow grind a bit until the square was "happy".. I had cleaned up the parts with that wire cup on the drill press. I used the MK1 jig to set the bevel at 25 degrees. The sander? Well, I run it to sand out the hollow grind, and make sure the bevel is what I want. I can also flatten the back of the iron, Fingertips tell me when the steel is getting too hot, then a dunk into the water. Once the bevel looks even, I can put away the sander, time for one of these.. Squiggle of 3in1 oil. Stone is a 600 grit medium India stone. Iron is left in the honing guide. Moosh the iron around a while, until the grinder/sander marks are gone. Then onto these.. I found out that IF there is a layer of oil still on the stone, the sandpaper will "stick" there, and not move around. Went through the 1000 grit, and the 2000 grits. I spent as much time on the bevel as on the back. Getting both polished up.. The corners have a slight radius, to keep them from digging in. The leather sitting there is an old work belt, now serving time as a strop. Just bare leather, maybe a touch of oil. Time to put the plane back together, and do a test run.. Much better? The coils sitting there are called Moxxon TP. The lateral lever? A little more centered. I think this one is about ready to go back to work? Now, as for this old plane... That "boat hull" of a body has a big curve to it. Only the area around the mouth is in contact. I can push down either on the front end, or the stern. Sooo, next time, I will have to flatten this sole.. Yep, it is that ugly, even the camera didn't want to look at it. next time I get to the shop, a tune up will happen to this old Ohio Tool Co. 035 Razee.....yep, it do have a tapered iron...
  14. Sharpening Carbide turning tools

    I had to get a new round tip for my tool. I found out that carbide don't hold up well when it hits a turning chuck. I turned the tip and it worked fine till I hit the chuck again. I am known to jerk when I am surprised. My wife knows to knock before she comes in, however, she forgot Any way, I have found an easy way to keep a good edge on these tips. Harbor Freight has a set of 3 diamond dust sharpening pads. Course Medium and fine. I don't allow them to get very dull before I remove them, place the flat cutter down and go thru the pads. I use moderate pressure and doe a good job.
  15. Sharpening A Handsaw

    Nice article discussing the steps for sharpening a handsaw- http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/how-to-sharpen-saw-blades
  16. Drawknives and Gimlets today..

    Well, while getting that loft bed done for the GrandBRAT the other day...tried out a drawknife to help smooth the dados out. It worked, but the edge was on the dull side, and was a bit wavy. When I got it out of the tote when I got back home, it went to the shop!. Had the beltsander set up in the leg vise. Up side down, with the belt running away from me. Locked it on....and dressed the edge straight. Got the back flattened. Sharpened the edge as well as I could. Then, holding the knife fiddle likein the crook of the elbow, I used a file like a bow on a fiddle. Got things looking good, took the knife upstairs to the stones, and ran them around. The results? doesn't look too bad? This is an 8" straight edge "EasyCut". Says so right on the blade. Made in USA, a bit fuzzy. Got to looking at the second knife in the group of two.. A 10" curved knife, not sure who made it. Edge is curved a bit, back is also designed to have a curve. But, not the wavy edge.. Ugly. So, off to the shop it went. Same routine. Evened thing out along the edge. Played "Fiddle" again, too. Cleaned the back up. Then upstairs to the stones and sandpaper.. Used the 2K grit wet-n-dry to polish it up. Need a shave, anyone? these were yard sale finds...about a dollar each. Added a handle to the curved one. Oh, about the "Gimlet" in the title? went on a walkabout tour of Antique Stores today.....in the third store, found a little treasure, for $5 !/4" Gimlet style drill. Ain't he cute? As for the rest of what was in the stores? Not worth the effort to pick them up...
  17. I love visiting our sponsors "Woodcraft Magazine" site, it's such a cool place to peruse and just hang out, and it looks great! Here is a cool jig I found, thanks Woodcraft!
  18. I have the 3 piece carbon steel turning set that Rockler had on sale last year. They stayed sharp a long time. If one edge dulls, you turn it to a new sharp surface. They are round, square and triangular. Today I went to turn the round one and got an idea. I removed the cutter and placed it on my hand diamond sharpening tool. One side is course and the other fine. The tops and bottoms of these are perfectly flat. I placed the top (cutting edge) down and worked my way thru the course to the fine. It did a good job and I am pleased at the results. The sharpener is from Home Depot and cost under $20
  19. I worked over a few handtools tonight. Was a bit wierd down there, though. I would move a bit, then weight while me head caught up. First, I cleaned off a Disston saw. Rust was trying to take hold. Saw is "special", and says so right on the plate, no less. "National Hardware Special" from 1954. Finally, something YOUNGER than me in the shop. Not sure IF you can read the etch in the photo It has DISSTON in big block letters, no less. Checked out the larger planes tonight, and found them needing some sharpening, too. First to feel the stones was a Small Jointer plane Had to grind a new bevel with the grinder, polish the bevel with the 1" wide beltsander. then it could go to the stones, and the papers. A bit of stropping and a polishing of the chipbreaker followed. Almost a full width shving you can read through. Chipbreaker did have a gap where it met the iron. That narrow belt sander worked it flat, and started a polish to the edge, Then a bit on a stone, then the strop. No gaps seen, now. Next was the old Stanley #5-1/2 Jumbo Jack same routine, until it worked like a smoother....Of course, Junior had to tag along, as well... All this talk of acting like a smoother, brought out a Millers Falls #9 Smoother, as well used it to clean things up a bit, since it was already sharp. One last plane needed a bit of work A Stanley #31 Jointer plane. Been having chattering issues lately. Chipbreaker was only in contact at one corner on the iron. Bevel on the iron was rounded over, too. Back was a little bit out of flat. Got all that fixed, including the chipbreaker being bent. Ball pean hammer fixed that. Ran a the test drive on some pine scrap. It was cutting see-through stuff. Tried out a couple block planes.....meh, next time I float back down there, I might give them a little working over. Enough for one night.

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