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Found 46 results

  1. Collectable users

    Here are a couple of my antique tools that are still being used... Brace with 1/2" and 1" spade bits. J.B.Ungerson - Barmen Germany is stamped on all three pieces. Robert Sorby Backsaw - 16tpi.
  2. Hand Tools

    This image is an open sourced image uploaded to this community for re-use within our community graphics.

    © Attribution 4.0 International (CC BY 4.0)

  3. I picked this up a couple weeks ago locally for a song, and after a little cleaning, not much, and some adjustments to the blade guides, this is what I ended up with. So far I'm very happy with the features and how it's put together, plus it doesn't appear to have much wear on it. On the left side of the table is a material length stop, it can be switched over to the right side if needed. I think that it's going to work very well, there is very little to no side play in the blade. The Owners Manual I was able to find on the net and print.
  4. Have most of the Maple parts cut to rough sizes....saw blade is set up, connectors done. Goal is to make a Frame Saw... Will get a few pictures, later. Today being a Monday, after all Traditional Chinese Woodworking site has a bunch of videos ( in Mandarin) and a few show the fellow building such a saw. My feeble attempt will be close to what he is doing. I still need a 1/4" all-thread, a wing nut and washer to match..for use as the top cord to tension the saw blade. Tore a couple old Butcher's saws down for some of the parts. So, do I post this saw build here, or..in the Hand tool section?
  5. Isn't new, but a good accessories for the SawStop...
  6. Garage sale morning...

    Rehabs the rest of the weekend, maybe? One Garage sale...all it said was.."Tools" Boss spent more than I did...but, she wasn't buying tools. I spent around $9 this morning...picked five tools Just had to shine up that medallion, to see what this saw was. . Hmmm, ring a bell? Saw is 26" long, has 8ppi, a skew back, and is wickedly SHARP. Paid a dollar for it... This be a $2 all-steel Shelton block plane....next.. This be a Millers Falls No. 900, I think. made after the Mohawk-Shelbourne line was ended...mid 50s? $2.....have had to fix the rear handle, this time it was broke. Front knob has "issues" ( cracks), Lever cap was replaced. Both handle bolts are one piece..bolts. And they were bent. Now, how good is your French? These two were also $2 each. Logo on the iron? A single eyeball means this is about..1875 era. Goldenberg Acier Fondu ( cast steel) Warantie ( warranted) ) This is an adjuster, there is a pin from the iron, into the head of the bolt. Other end of the bolt engages two square nuts, these push against a notch in the bed for the iron. All this adjusts is to retract the iron. Irons are both 1-5/8" wide....bodies are about 9-1/2" long. Both have chip breakers.....neither of them are attach to the irons. These two will take a bit of time to fix up. Five items = $9.....I turned down three Handyman planes, a beat up mitre box and quite a few other "treasures"....figured I had done enough for one sale... Not too bad of a morning?
  7. I see more and more of these coming on the market. I have a couple of "Clamp & Guides" and some shop-built guides, but wonder how they're all working. Do any of you have one you like (or dislike). I'm thinking we might use one of these at the furniture bank for cutting out melamine sheet goods. There's one size that's too big for the table saw we have. Repeatability of cuts would be a BIG help as we do about 68 table tops at a session but only 3 different sizes. Would be nice not to have to measure each one (measure once, cut 24 times). Fe$tool is probably out of the question due to cost. But we'd need to get a circular saw to go with one of the guide-only aftermarket versions http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/track-saw-review/ http://www.boratool.com/ https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p424/rip-cuttrade/ https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p425/accu-cut/
  8. The throat plate adjustment screws on my DeWalt table saw are looser than I'd like and go out of adjustment. What can I put on the threads to hold them in place and still allow future adjustment? Thanks
  9. Staged a Saw Rescue

    On a road trip....stopped at one sale.....Bought a handsaw for a buck-fifty.. Weird handle, ugly paint job....Left handed saw? As this is the "back"....? My son picked up a Fox Fire riding coat..$80 coat for $10.. Got this "Treasure" home, took the handle off, and cleaned the brass.. Fancy medallion? THREE sets of holes? Phoenix, Patented, Trade ( bird) Mark, Warranted. Hardware matched the holes in the handle Left handed saw? Took the plate to the shop....paint stripper was a wire wheel and a belt sander... Had the remove a bow to the plate, and a kink or two.....plate is now straight, just needs the 8ppi teeth sharpened. Put the saw back together, and then outside to "sun" itself... Non-medallion side ( left handed saw ?) Medallion side. 26" 8 point, crosscut saw. Medallion is by Atkins. Plate is known as a skew back. Three finger grip, with the index finger along the side as a pointer. VERY comfy handle. $1.50? Looks better than when it was all painted up....
  10. It appears that production does not need to go to China for quality to go to Hades https://paulsellers.com/2017/06/shame-two-cherries-shame/?pk_campaign=feed&pk_kwd=shame-two-cherries-shame
  11. Ron has a good idea about the lathe and the person using it.. Comfortable to use so a person don't get wore out before he gets started using it. When I bought the new 788 in 99 I decided who ever built the stand that came with the scroll saw was about half off his rocker....So I went to thinking ....and here is what I use to keep me in the shop, longer, and with not as much aches and pains. I built a table to sit the saw on that is 19 1/2" tall. The saw is not bolted to the table, it will slide around as it sits on pieces of a truck tire inter tube... making it quieter, not a clue!! Sometimes I am sawing long pieces of wood and the saw needs to be turned one way or the other to accept the area where the sawing is fixin to take place.. I sit on an office chair with good swivel casters so I can go back and forth to the work top area a few feet away from the saw....Another good thing, which makes me follow the saw line better, I am mostly looking down on the piece to be sawn. Better results on saw-man-ship, not a clue again, but after building this set up , I got better at scroll sawing?? Most of the time these 788's don't bounce around much so maybe the inter tube is helping there?? This scroll sawing turned out to be the most comfortable tool useage of anything I do in my shop.. After I get a pattern attached to the wood then head toward to scroll saw, I let out a loud hurray or is it hurraw for the next few hours will be sitting down to where I can relax and make saw dust! And don't forget to turn on that box fan with the filter attached over there to the left of the operator! It took years to get my shop set up so tripping over objects in the floor would be a priority. I did leave room so I could get to the commode and the sink after I finally locate where they are! Does anyone have any good ideas to keep lumber stored thats not being used from day to day? The 12" Powermatic # 72 table saw catches all the overflow for all it is used for is cross cutting so it gets all the extra crap.... The sled on it is a permanent fixture for it measures 34x48" and is too important to stand up somewhere and get knocked out of whack. Yes I do take care of some of the small long pieces but sometimes I forget they are up there out of the way. And this fixture keeps some clamps close to the work table which is over the end of the table saw I call my work table. Its on a swivel so the clamps are easy to get to. I didn't say easy to squeeze, which they ain't!! A small metal strap bending tool is a good tool for making brackets for storing wood on the ceiling.. Oh, the drill press has a magnet to hold the chuck key but it serves another very important service for the light next to the magnet is too heavy with the extra large bulb making it too heavy to stay up in the air so the magnet holds the light over the work area also to even for. Its on a swivel so the clamps are easy to get to. And did I say not easy to squeeze? I decided getting up in age I need everything out in plain sight so I won't have all those drawers to look through. So I have lots of turn tables with lots of holes to display lots of small items. And I do think it has helped save wasted time..... Lots of experimenting went in to the 60 and 100 watt led bulbs in my shop and my house. I even had my wife take pictures of the receipts and the expected years these bulbs are supposed to last!!!!! I can just see the clerks asking are you sure those led bulbs were the 9 year, or the 18 year or the 22 year warrenty models or what???? We had just now finished installing all those curly cue light bulbs in all the shops and garages and houses receptacles and are now returned to the boxes the led's came in, with no where to go with them!! HO HO.
  12. Yard Clean Up?

    Although I have a nice saw til, full of very good handsaws.....I don't like to use them anywhere near nails and screws....so, I happen to have a saw just for that kind of work, hanging around.. That yellow handled saw from Aldi's... Ok, I had three old, nasty 2x4s outside, leaning against the shed. Nails, screws, hardware, and big bugs....no way am I bringing that mess down into the shop... Went through each 2x4, trying to cut out the worst of the mess.. Handsome, ain't they? Didn't even use a square, just the old MK-1 Eyeball......managed to get six good pieces out of the three... As for that saw... IF you get it started nice and straight, it will cut straight. It cuts FAST, though, if you use the entire blade. Well, got my "Cardio" for the day.....oh, and about the bad stuff that was chopped out/off? We have ways....who's got the hotdogs? I also use this thing to get rid of all the BIG cardboard trash. Intend to resaw those six boards down a bit....need small parts for that Pantry Project build. Might even cobble up a small box with some of it.. Saw is just an 8ppi, hardtooth, panel saw. handle doesn't feel too bad, no blisters this time. At least I did make a bit of sawdust, today....
  13. Saw-Stop in a handsaw?

    Well, lets see, got out the Saw Vise Squad.. Ol' No. 1 was set up and used.. As this old saw needed some work on the teeth. Saw file was sent along.. As this was it's second saw, we had Back Up available.. But the file was no rookie, and came through without any problems , will get the back up file for another time Decided to at least give these usual suspects a chance to show what they could do.. 6 ppi, filed rip. Got out a 1 x 1 pine scrap, as a test.. But, it turned into a Crime Scene. Saw was hard to start, but once it did, it cut very fast....so fast that the hand that was holding the scrap steady for the start , got caught up in the action... One swipe...was enough to trigger the "Saw_Stop Sensor" Teeth were drifting to the left in the cut, still had burrs on the teeth on that side, stoned the burrs off. Should be ready to go, next time around. Decided to work on something a little safer, got out the leather strop, and the brand new Green Stick, and honed a few chisels....that way, only the strop can get cut.. So, they all should be ready to go, for the next project....I hope. Needs a new bandaid....and a beer...
  14. This would be a nice idea for someone living in an apartment. Easy dust control and low noise. Isn't cheap though.
  15. Disston Saw

    This is not my saw, I found this image on Ebay and I just like it a whole lot.
  16. Lately I've noticed a few folks that are now using the small plastic and aluminum imported Jobsite table saws. In my opinion they are grossly over priced for what they are. For a comparably sized saw I have a old Rockwell 34-607 nine inch Contractors table saw that was made in the USA, and I consider it as a much better saw. I have added a paddle switch, my own dust collection hood, a mobile base, and a link belt to it. I luv this saw, I use it in the small shop that I use in the winter months.
  17. Saw lube

    I have been doing some web research on saw lubrication. There are MANY different opinions. First the band saw. Olson recommends a wax like lube in a stick that you press against both sides of the blade. They make the blades and say that it will make you blade last a lot longer because of less heat build up, which causes heat crystallization of the blade and failure. Others I have asked on this site say use nothing. I have used the Olson lube and it did seem to work well and I did notice a noise reduction. I have it beside my saw, but rarely remember use it. Nothing was said about dry Teflon spray. Anyone tried it? Table saw. For lubing gears and all things that move under the table. I read of people using WD40, home made brews of different concoctions, and several sprays. The one that got the best reviews by far was Dupont Teflon dry lube. So I tried it. It did a great job and lasted much longer than anything I've used before. I tried to find if it would also work on the TS blade itself, but could not find any info. I am going to get out an old reserve blade and give it a spin.
  18. Rehabbing a saw...

    Well, this 20" long saw has sat around long enough...maybe too long.. Nasty looking? Early 50s Disston saw. 20" long. 10 ppi....Decided to at least try to rehab it. Hammer to straighten a few bends....Set the bad spots over a leg of the bench, and pound away til flat.....er. 100 grit sandpaper on the palm sander, sand through a couple pieces....PBBlaster soak a bit, then 180 grit to sand it out. Looks a little better? BLO wipe on-wipe off for the handle. IF you look closely, you can barely see the side of the Disston "Keystone " etch. There is a little bit of writing beside it, too. Right below the handle is a "10" stamped. For 10 ppi. Plate is almost as straight as I can get it......may fine tune it later.....have other things to do.. Called a saw vise. This one is a Wentworth No.1 c. 1897. Got it down to the bench and wiped it down, then installed it in the end vise.. That be a 2x6 it is bolted to. It goes into the vise to hold the saw vise for use.....first off, needed to "Joint" the scraggle teeth down. Need files for that. Both a BIG,LONG file... For "scale", that be a normal 16oz claw hammer back there. Black Diamond, made in USA, File. Wound up taking the handle off, was getting in the way.....I do have a regular jointer.. Had a smaller file in it...was a bit worn out, though. Used the large file to try to get all those teeth to the same level.... Saw isn't missing any teeth, just some were worn more than the others.....this will take a while. Maybe by then, I can find a couple saw files of the right size. And, maybe, find out a bit more about this little saw....Next time I'll be doing a bit of sharpening on this saw. Files cost more than the saw did...
  19. In spite of harvest activities, We have made it an annual activity to go out the second weekend in October for a fall festival somewhere. The last several years, it has been Illinois' Spoon River Drive and we did so again this year. The day was beautiful and I found a few cool items too! Most of these items were 1 or 2 bucks and were found at roadside sales throughout the drive area. The group of vises and the rotary table set me back 40 bucks for all. The egg beater is a Goodell-Pratt 259 and Millers Falls hand vise added 10 more. The drill appears to be very well built and has a ball bearing spindle, ratcheting crank, and shiftable gearbox. The breast drill I picked it up for parts. The pig stickers were picked to add some sizes to ones already in my shop and the back saw was a request from my wife's uncle. It is cleaned and sharpened and ready for him to take home. The leather shears are kinda cool and show an 1859 patent date on the brass cap. They also have been through my tank. And did I mention the NOS Saw files with superficial rust? They got an overnight vinegar soak and look very sharp and usable now. I will test them soon enough! There is also a skew rabbett plane with good iron and a broken wedge that will need replacement and a fence for an early Stanley 46. Family, food, finds, and fun! Not ready for winter!
  20. About five years ago, or so, while on a rust hunt in Sidney Oh......Spent $5 on a saw, with a metal case.. I fixed the cord, threw out the junk blades, bought a new blade when I finally found the right size and arbor. Not a bad little saw, a little bit lighter than the Sears 7-1/4" all metal one I also have. The Problem? Well, it is the paint job on the outside of the case... Would like to bring this thing back to almost new.....and NOT lose the yellow label part. I can sand and strip the rest off, no problemski...but that label? Case has sat around ever since, looking rather forlorn. I have even used the saw enough that the year old blade is getting a wee bit dull. Ideas on label salvage? I no longer have an "In" with the local JVS, nor their paint shop class. I'm more or less on my own....I think I have the right shade of Rustoleum Green. Might have to see about that BS Yellow colour...
  21. Test drove the Aldi's saws..

    Already gave this saw a test drive.. Teeth are a bit rough to start. Cuts fast, though. Might not be for fine dovetails, but, IF I take it to a site to work on trim.. Little blurry, but this was at the end of the test drives....GEM Mitre Box, just the thing for a short mitre saw. Ok, on to this "panel saw" 20" long. but those teeth are a bit on the fine side.. Real fine teeth. Turns out, this is fine for a crosscut.. As long as the operator can follow a line, it will saw fast and straight...however Those small teeth aren't much as a rip saw. Too fine of a sawdust. I needed something a bit more... MEAN. 5-1/2 ppi. This one tended to drift to the left a bit, needed to stone that side. The Aldi's saw would have taken all morning, the Disston Keystone takes about a third of the time Still, the panel saw would be a decent jobsite saw, or a DIY saw. All three saws have that Impulse hardened teeth, which makes sharpening a royal PITA. Handles are comfy, but I'd wear gloves to reduce blisters, if I had to use them all day. But, for the price these are? Yeah, I'd buy a set. Saves wear & tear on my good saws.
  22. A couple old saws that I found

    I found these at a couple of garage sales this summer. The one is an Atkins cross cut that appears to have a very nice etch. It looks like it will clean up nicely and the rust seems pretty superficial. The handle on this one is very nice. I am needing a good cross cut and this one should fill the bill. The second saw is a bit rougher. It is a Spear and Jackson rip saw with split nuts. It has seen some heavier use and has been sharpened quite a few times. The rust is heavier on this one and the handle has some weather checking. It will need much more work if I intend to bring it back. The original nib is still there though. If it turns out too rough, I have a couple others that could use a donor split nut. Grand total for these two saws was a whopping 2 bucks! We will have to see how they turn out when I can get some time.
  23. PIP: Stanley 358 Mitre Box and Saw

    Took a while, these are a bit more work to do than a simple plane rehab. A few photos of this HUGE saw? About as far as I think I'll go with this saw. Any further down in the tear down would involve too many spring-loaded thingys to fly off into parts unknown.. Gave it a test drive at 90 degrees...yep, still works. That long saw sure takes up a lot of room, though. Cleaned the bolts, and then clocked them. The "STANLEY" needed to have a lot of rust wire wheeled off of it. Got a new( too thick, Grrrr)poplar deck, attached with 12 screws. New bolts to attache the legs. The bar across the top of the guides is some 1/8" thick by 1/2" wide flat bar weld stock. Two new thumbscrews are there to hold the bar in place. Setting numbers have been cleaned off, so I can at least READ them.. may go back and add some paint into the degree scale below them? Now, I need to clean up three other HUGE backsaws. Have one on "soak" cycle now...
  24. Lid work, on that box

    Used the vise to hold this box still, long enough to mark a line clear around.. Trying to land anywhere but right in a pin. Brought down the "new" saw, to cut the lines.. Yeah, it is the cordless one from the yard sale. It is also about as heavy as my all-metal saws. Cut my way around all four sides, with the second narrow end last, still had a bit of a bind.. Wound up with this. Set the bottom aside, for now. Added the insert for the top.. Just nailed in place, no glue. Then came those hinges... Had to remember which way it sat on the bottom part of the box. Vise to hold things in place. Try using these screws, before the BP Meds.. A pilot hole of sorts was made with a small nail.....Hinges are on, maybe load this thing up? Might work. Unloaded it, and sanded, sanded, and filled and sanded Sanding filler was just glue and bandsaw sawdust. Not sure what all was in the dust, but, when sanded smooth.. Most of the stuff is filled in. Loaded this thing up again Closed the lid, and added the first coat of the "Brew" Will let it dry, then work on it a bit more. Maybe go looking for a latch? Maybe by this weekend, it might be done?
  25. New saw, but needed sharpened

    That little tool box saw I rebuilt last week? Well, needed to hammer a few kinks out of the plate. Got rid of the "wave effect". Decided to clamp the saw up into a "fancy-schmancy" saw vise, and work on the teeth a bit Wood was a hair on the wavy side. Oh well, the wood merely needs to hold things still. Got out a small file... a jointer file. To make all the teeth the same height. Then fitted a file to a fancy handle.. Has a thumbscrew to hold onto a file. got a few teeth done, needed to add a c clamp, to pinch in the top of the jaws a bit. About three strokes, straight across, per tooth. File the saw as a rip cut. No rack was added. Didn't take all that long to get to the end.. Well all done, how about a few cuts to try this saw out? 1 st cut.. Saw cut #2. made a couple more.. I think it is about ready to go. Took it back upstairs, and placed it in the brand new Pine Tool Box. Might just work?

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