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Found 19 results

  1. 1. Preparation Normally this means planing and/or sanding. I went to a day-long finishing seminar by a well-known author and finish supplier. I think he spent the first two hours talking about sanding. Hmmm, maybe the only thing more boring than sanding is talking for two hours about sanding? Anyway, the process is this: Start with the coarsest grit you need to remove the defects. On most surfaces, this means the planer marks that look like little waves. But if you are doing plywood, it's already been sanded so you can start with a much finer grit. Subsequent grits just remove the scratches from the previous grits. You can normally skip a grit in this progression. When to stop? There is not much use in going beyond 180 or so. If I'm doing plywood or refinishing a piece (remember that unless it's damaged, it's been finish sanded once before) I might start and stop with 220. Between the grits and at the end, you can wipe with a cloth or blow off with a blow gun to get off any grit left from the last round. 2. Coloring This step is optional but usually involves a pre-finish stain. It can also involve in-process toners (finish with color added in it) or glazes (color between coats of finish). 3. Film or oil finish In last week's TGIF, we saw the reasons why we finish things (beautify, protect, and make a cleanable surface). Your choice of one or more types depends on a lot of things - intended use, your skills, costs, time involvement, environment where applying, etc.
  2. It's called Trace Coating. A water based dye is applied and allowed to dry. Then sanding starts with, in the video, 120 grit. All the planer marks, drum sander scratches, glue spots, and other scratches and dings become readily apparent. I just started using the process on the mesquite for the river table. Mesquite is a good bit harder than the maple used in the video. I started with 60, then 80 and 100. I'll do 120 and 180 and call it done. It's already dead flat and smooth as a baby's butt. Here's Charles Neil's video about the process. He rambles a lot and, talks slow but, the information is really good. Enjoy. https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=4s&v=Ni2Y3vMtUSU Sorry, You tube won't allow embedding of this video.
  3. I had great hopes of getting to the basement shop today. We awoke to this- Perfect turning weather! But, as the saying goes- Best laid plans... Ended up shoveling ice and sleet, from neighborhood driveways, for several hours, balancing my Mom's checkbook and getting her taxes done. Anyway, lots happening with our turner since last week. @DAB posted a sweet looking pine bowl he turned. Pine isn't easy to get a nice finish but Doug nailed it perfectly. Read the comments on his work, here- @Gene Howe gave us a link to a site that sells some neat sanding devices for turners (and all woodworkers)- Check the website for more- @Steve Krumanaker won a contest from Robust turning. Congrats, Steve,! @Steve Krumanaker also posted a piece turned by a member of the turner's club to which he belongs. Talk about creativity! Here's a little more on the piece- @Jim from Easy Wood Tools is looking for help in the Chicago area. This would be an excellent opportunity to show off your skills with the fantastic Easy Wood Tools product line. @Cliff posted a picture of using a router bit for a turning tool. Check it out, here- The Woodturning OnLine newsletter is available. As always there is a lot of great information. One thing that caught my attention was an article discussing Carving and Turning by Richard Wright. The article is a PDF document with many examples/pictures. http://www.capecodturners.org/home/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Carving-and-Turning.pdf Tim Yoder has a video up where he turns a Votive Candle Holder. Pay particular attention to the Easy Wood Chuck! If you ever get a chance to test drive this chuck, you will fall in love with it! Over the weekend I made an inertia sander. I bought the sleeve and bearing from Capt. Eddie. If you decide to make your own, be sure to drill the hole for the sleeve/bearing close enough to the handle end so the sanding disc doesn't rub against the end of the handle- don't ask how I know this. From icey southern PA Safe turning
  4. Sanders for turners

    These look really handy. Any one use them? http://vinceswoodnwonders.com/palm-sanders-and-sanding-paddles/
  5. Sandpaper

    Anybody ordered sandpaper lately? Just ordered some Norton Prosand and the 120 was $20 for 20 9x11 sheets. Has something happened to cause this or did I just order the expensive stuff? On Amazon it is over 40.
  6. Non woven abrasive pads

    I can't find my meager supply of non woven pads, not that I ever had that many. But I need some and I'd like to get the larger 6x9 size, I think the ones I had were much smaller 3M pads. Anyway, I started searching for them and was overwhelmed. I'd like a name brand (Norton , 3M, others?) and a box of 20 with 4 grits. Nada, except maybe Peachtree. I don't care much for Peachtree, looking at their display at the WW'ing show some years ago they struck me as the HF of the woodworking world (some good stuff with a lot of junk). So, what non woven pas do you prefer, and where do you get them? Right now I just need some for a little rust removal, but I intend to stock them in my shop (if it ever shows up).
  7. I have never had an official sand paper center, or storage, they just get shuffled from one location to another as I need them. But a couple days I was getting a little short on patience when my sand paper was not where I though it was, and when I needed it. The same day, I had to take something to our trash, and lo and behold, wife was organizing, and threw this out, an old organizing folder, and I am now using it for my sand paper, cool right! Ya I know, shame on me, you'd think I'd have a place for it right, not. In many ways I am pretty organized, someways I just never got there.
  8. Burnishing a Chair Rung

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    After each chair piece has been sanded to 600 on the lathe, I pick up a handful of shavings and push them onto the piece while it's spinning at max RPM. An instant sheen or glow appears, I enjoy this final touch before I pull it from the centers.
  9. I keep forgeting that rule... Could NOT find my stash of slotted, brass screws....had to go to Lowes to BUY a few....solid brass? more like gold plated...$1.24 for a pack of......3? #8 x 3/4" round head screws. Bought three packs. saved 10% when I showed off my Mil. ID card.....whopp...eee. Kind of set the mood for the rest of the evening. There IS a shop stool in the shop, so I tried to make some use out of it.. Had to make a simple jig to hold thing still long enough to work it over.. Thin piece of pine. Added those screws, cracked the pine....one of them nights. marked the last leg for a dovetail... Knife wall to keep the saw from wandering off on it's own.... Chisel to excavate the waste. Flip the leg over...move the jig to match. Repeat and rinse.. Tried the 1" x 30" beltsander for a bit....brand new belt, too....rounding over all three legs....or tried to...Belt was a bit TOO aggressive, sooo, back to the old standby Then the palm sander to smooth things out. I also needed to dig out one more socket.. First, I needed a flat spot. handsaw to cut a stopline. tried to chisel the spot.....grain was running the wrong way, so I merely went straight across with the little plane. Had to move that jig a bit, to hold the post a bit better.....meh.. Thin jig to hold one end down, piece of pine to hold the other end up. traced the outline of the pin, carried a couple lines over and then up the post. Knife, backsaw and chisels, just to get a start "Hide yer eyes,Mable, this is getting ugly" Stubborn Olde Mick, just kept going... Well, at least it can stand up on it's own three feet. Now things went downhill....the batten? My LARGEST Forstner bit was still a 1/8" too small.. Had to chisel away the excess. Then I had to adjust the size of the collar, just to get it to seat into the batten....Cut two wedges.....Needed some glue......after going back upstairs to retrieve said bottle of Elmer's....started to drive the wedges home.....CRACK? wedge was a hair to much. Dug fatso out of the kerf. Clamped the batten to the post... Added a pine scrap to help out. had to fight the clamp into place and tighten down as far as I could. ( be my luck, that piece of pine will be glued in place) Spread some glue on some dovetails, and banged them home as well.. A bit sloppy with the glue, letting it run down and out. Will clean the mess up tomorrow. Fill a few gaps. And see about adding the top? And...NO, I dinna leave that sitting there like that, the way the evening went, it would have fallen to the floor , as soon as I turned me back. It is now laying on it's side, safely. Not he best day I've had in the shop. Might stay tuned, anyway, as hopefully this is almost done. Just something for a lamp and a phone to sit on...
  10. Used an old railroad spike, to hold things still long enough to run a router around the edges, top and bottom on each armrest.. You can see the top of the spike there in the dog hole. The large hole in the rest is to "house" the top of the front post... Handsaw to make a couple kerf cuts, right at the top of each front post.. I also drilled a through hole in the rear post. Centered in the mortise. So, when a bit of Elmer's get spread around,, I add a screw through the rear post, and this Walnut wedge to the front post. Armrests have been 3/8" round overed, sanded down. Currnetly have the rocker sitting on it's seat ON my bench As I have a bit of beltsanding to do....test ride showed that there is a flat spot in the rockers. Will attempt to smooth them out. I can also plug the counter bored holes back there. And, maybe trim down a few seat slats As a few ran a bit too long. Not shown today....ran the round-over bit around the tops of the rear posts, then sanded smooth. LOTS of sanding left to do, a few spots need filler added, and then sanded again...thinking in about another week I might start some finish on this thing...
  11. sanding discs

    Has anyone had any experience with the hand held sanding discs that turn with the lathe? I don't know what you call it, but it has a handle and a foam disc with sandpaper on it. How about the discs that you can use in a hand held drill that can turn opposite the direction of the lathe? Thanks
  12. I had a nice day last weekend, I was in my shop for most of it, just tooling around and getting reacquainted with my clean shop! So I started back in on my claro walnut rocker. I had some issues with the legs to the seat joint so I spent some time truing up the joint's (different post later tonight) and after wards I still had some considerable shaping to do with my right angle grinder. So I put a 60 grit disk on the grinder and went to town on the rear portion of the seat, I had some dishing out to do that I started last year but got side tracked away from it. It took me about 15 minutes to get it to where it was evened out, and ground out past the depth gauge holes I drilled in at the beginning of the project. Grinding these seats out is fun, you get to see a shape take shape quickly, but you really have to watch it, don't get over zealous, there is a point of no return that will trash this seat in a millisecond. There is a pucker factor when you get to a certain point. But the end result is rewarding. I sanded the seat out to 80 grit with my new USA ROS Sanding disks and the seat is looking good, more pics later. The seat is really rough right now, we are just starting to create the chiseled lines around the front edge and sides that we'll hold too throughout the project, once established you cannot hit them with anything, they need to stay sharp and crisp. You can see how lines need to be held once established in this image of the last walnut rocker I built. Those lines are established very early on, and sometimes it's easy to sand through them if you are not alert. Don't ask me how I know!
  13. USA Sand Paper

    I am in the process of stocking up my shop back up after months of inactivity, and that inactivity began with an understocked workshop! I ordered 5 boxes of USA Sand Paper at about 75 bucks total including shipping, each box has 50 disks. You can view their page at Online Industrial Supply. So far so good, great price, and cheap shipping! I got a chance to try the disks out last weekend on my rocker seat and these disks rock! Great lasting time, and thick paper for durability. Just a heads up for yall, they still have a sale going on for their Platinum paper if you need a great disk, at a great price.
  14. Has anyone had any experience with one of these? And if so, how'd ya like it? Pros or cons? King Arthur's Tools Total Sanding Kit I wonder if I could use my slow speed grinder, attach a chuck to it, and purchase just the flex shaft?
  15. Sand Ends1

    From the album Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Sand Ends1
  16. Sand Ends

    From the album Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Sand Ends
  17. Ball Sander And paper

    From the album Natural Edge Bowl

    David Reed Smith foam ball sander

    © Lewis Kauffman

  18. Sanding

    I know this is more than likely a silly question. however I am going to ask it anyways, because I am like that lol. When you sand a project how do you know when you are done. do you go from the coarsest grit to the lowest all the time or is it dependent on the wood and its softness? how do you know when it is time to go to a lower grit sandpaper? The reason I am asking is because every time I feel like I have sanded enough and I coat it there always seems to me that I should have sanded it more. Well thanks for those who take the time to answer my question.
  19. So just to get a little chatter going and I haven't ask one of these in a while, I thought today would be a good time. When you are doing or planning a woodworking project, what is your favorite part of the project? 1. Drawing a scale drawing 2. Building a prototype 3. Dimensioning the material 4. Layout 5. Joinery 6. Assembly 7. Sanding 8. Staining or finishing 9. Just seeing the end results!

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