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Found 68 results

  1. Well, looks like I may be coming up for air soon! Been since the beginning of August since I've done some serious work in my shop. I just finished cleaning up and making my shop look like a workable space, and I set my Curly Maple Shaker Rocker on the bench that I started 5 months ago. I'm feeling pretty good here. I have my shop back! Dogs are enjoying the space too. I will sleep good tonight, the world is right again! Happy dogs!
  2. Rocking Dino

    A while back I got a set of plans for a kids rocking dinosaur. It was printed on both sides of a large piece of paper and folded like a road map. The parts were "traceable" as advertised, BUT large pieces of carbon paper were required and the various parts had lines that crisscrossed each other all over the place. To keep the original plans I tried making a copy but that turned out to be a mess. Then I got a bright idea and sent it off to MEBCWD to see if he could work his magic and turn it into a CNC file. He emailed me a file back that showed up like this. Mike is good with Aspire. He's even better than good, and ...... reasonable. $$ well spent. Got busy cutting parts out of 1" panels and 2 x 12's Parts are cut out!!! I took the edge off the exposed edges with a round over bit and did a little (very little) sanding. The rockers were just mirrored, so they were exactly alike. A cut up piece of 1 x4 and the platform was made. Now the big test. Will the parts all go together. So far so good! A couple of minor adjustments and the dino fit on the platform. There's 2 - 2 1/2 " construction screws in each foot driven in from the bottom. Mixed up some Rustoleum Hunter Green and Gloss White paint and made a mess. You can saw a wooden ball in half and make fancy eyes or cheat like I did and go to Michaels. The mouth is just painted on. It could be Vcarved if you wanted to do the two sided carving step. Advantage of using the CNC --- all the parts are as exact as you need for assembly. The band saw was never turned on. Each part is exactly the same allowing you to make 3-4-5 units at a time. Or, as many as desired, even if it's just one. Sanding is minimal. More on the finishing surface than the edges. Once you have a file on a thumb drive, you save it and bring it out whenever needed.
  3. Curly Maple Shaker Rocker

    Well here we are. Getting ready to cut into a nice 8/4 board of heavy Curly Maple to begin another rocker journey. Tonight I'm laying out parts and cutting. With any luck I'll have some slats in the steamer tonight. This photo does no justice to the figure in this board. I'll keep this topic going with this chair build. Thanks for following along! Legs are cut and squared.
  4. New Lebanon Shaker Rocer

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    A great project, I highly recommend anyone to build these chairs, suitable for most skill levels. The weaving in this seat was considerably more challenging than the square stools I weaved. The trapezoidal shape of the seat created some interesting challenges, but I got through them.
  5. Shaker Rocker and Stool

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    The seat is weaved, and I placed the accompanying stool with it. I am pretty happy how this one turned out. I'll create plenty more, this was just too much fun.
  6. Shaker Rocking Chair

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    Once I weave the seat into the chair, it will be striking, I am very happy with this project.
  7. Shaker Rocker

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    I love the patina this chair gained during the finishing, the cherry just got deeper, richer and thick. I love the tone.
  8. New Lebanon Shaker Rocker

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    This morning I put the final coat of General Finishes Gel Topcoat on our chair, it should be ready to weave the seat tomorrow, I hope!
  9. Hello, I'm going to be a first time grandfather in the fall. My son has asked me if I could build a sliding rocking chair. I was wondering if anyone out there has built one and has plans? Best regards to all, Ron
  10. Fitting Rockers to Slots

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    I used my new Iwasaki 10mm wide file to get the sides and the bottoms just right for the final fitting of the rockers. These files are really really nice. They really remove the material very quickly, and leave a very fine finish. I bought this one at http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/iwasaki_floats.htm
  11. Rocker Slots

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    I pre-drilled a hole below the bottom of the legs, and between the saw cut lines, so all I had to do was chop out a little at the top and the rest just fell out, leaving a rough bottom, but workable with a file till it became flat for the rocker to fit into.
  12. Shaker Rocker Arm Wedge Tenon

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    I like the really slather the glue on with these, then I hammered home the walnut wedge to secure the front leg tenon to the arm.
  13. Wedge Tenon Rocker Arm

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    While shaping the tenon down to fit in the through mortise at the arm of the rocker, I shaped it down a tad to small, but fortunately I was going to fit the joint with a wedge tenon anyway, so that alone took up the gap and and made it right.
  14. Shaping the Arm Narrow

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    Still working on the arm narrow, it's almost there, but not quite, it's all by eye, whatever looks pleasing, is when I'll stop.
  15. Shaping the Arm Narrow

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    After I was satisfied with the tenon fit, I shaped more of the arm at the tenon area.
  16. Fitting Arm Tenon to Rear Chair Leg

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    I finally got a decent fit for the arm tenon.
  17. Shaping the Arm Tenon

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    After I cut the tenons out, I took them from square to round in just few minutes, testing the fit as I went.
  18. Cutting the Tenon in Arm

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    I rotated the arm and cut the other side (shoulders I guess you could say, but since it's a round tenon, what is it really?)
  19. Cutting the Arm Tenon

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    I used this beautiful E. Garlick and Son "Lynx Brand" tenon cross cut saw to slice down the tenon to width. At 20 TPI, the cut is very fine. I purchased this saw a year ago on a whim and I am now starting to use it for many things. It's a joy to use.
  20. Laying Out Arm Tenon

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    The tenons for the arms had to be layed out and cut by hand. Since the arms are irregular in shape, the lathe could not be used to shape the tenons as I have done with all the tenons in this chair. I laid out the 5/8" tenon a tad wide to accommodate any error in my making of the tenon, I'd rather shave down, than try to make it back up.
  21. Dry Fit Rocker Parts

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    I dry fit the chair together and checked for fit, mortises, tenons, racking, and square, it all lined up beautifully.
  22. Back Slat Mortise

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    The mortises turned out really nice, I just took my time, sat down at the bench and diligently approached each mortise, sometimes I'd catch myself getting a bit too fast chopping these out, that's when I make mistakes. So I pulled myself back and slowed down, and they actually turned out very nice.
  23. Back Slate Mortise Test Fit

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    As I chopped the mortises, I kept testing the fit, I had to chop out the mortises at an angle, so they other side of the bent slat, would meet into the opposite chair post.
  24. Back Slat Mortises

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    Laying out the mortises for the back slats of our chair. I scribed the layout lines with a razor knife before I started chopping the mortises. By scribing the lines first, I ended up with a nice crisp and clean mortise line. The lower slat had to have 3/4" deep mortises, and the mortises progressed more shallow to the top and 4th slat at 1/2" deep.
  25. Shaker Chair Arms

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    The arm's are shaped and ready for final sanding. After rough shaping the arms with the draw knife and spoke shave, I used a block of wood wrapped in 80 grit sand paper and refined the arms.

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