Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'repair'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • The Woodworking Discussion Forum
    • Introduce Yourself
    • General Woodworking
    • Wood Turners
    • Hand Tools
    • Scroll Sawing
    • Finishing, Tips and Tricks
    • Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
    • Show Us Your Woodworking Shops
    • Plans and Software
    • The Veterans Corner and Causes Forum
    • The Classified, Swap and Sale
  • The CNC Forum
    • General CNC Work
    • Building Your CNC
    • CNC Machine Reviews and Purchase
    • CNC Software Research and Use
    • CNC Challenges and Solutions
    • CAD/CAM Files Sharing Center
  • The Home Improvement Forum
    • Home Improvement
    • Patio and Outdoors
  • The Old Machinery Discussion Forum
    • Old Woodworking Machinery
    • Old Machinery Badges and Decals
  • The Scrap Bin
    • Free for All
    • The Patriot's Pulse
    • Announcements
    • Network Tutorials
    • Bugs and Issues
  • The Patriot Woodworkers Archived Forum
    • Woodworking
    • Wood Turning
    • Hand Tools
    • Old Woodworking Machinery
    • Scroll Sawing
    • Finishing
    • Tools
    • Veterans


  • Community Action Calendar


  • Book and Literature
  • CNC Files
    • CAD Files
    • CAM Files
    • CNC Reference and Tutorials
  • General Woodworking
    • Shop Charts
    • Shop Jigs
    • Shop Furniture
    • Arts and Crafts
    • Furnishings
    • Musical Instruments
    • Wooden Toys
    • Yard and Outdoors
  • Home Improvement
  • Old Machinery Badge & Decal Images
    • Beaver Power Tools-Callander Foundry
    • Delta Specialty Co.
    • Delta Mfg. Co.
    • Delta Milwaukee
    • Delta Rockwell
    • Walker Turner
    • Sears Companion
    • Sears Craftsman
    • Sears Dunlap
  • Sketchup Sharing Center
    • Furnishings
    • Shop Jigs
    • Arts and Crafts
    • Sketchup Tutorials
  • Scroll Saw Patterns


  • A Wenge Box
  • Building A Walnut Shotgun Case
  • Military Challenge Coin Display Build
  • SJUSD Veterans Recieve Plaques from Patriot Tigers
  • The Pastor’s Table or I Think My Sister Is Trying To Buy My Way Into Heaven
  • Small Patch Musings and Such
  • Carving a Pumkin with Woodworking Tools
  • Steve Krumanaker
  • Don't Burn That Wood Pallet!
  • Christmas 2016
  • Lori Milner's Woodworking Adventures by Woodcraft
  • Photography
  • Woodworking Adventures Featured Blogs
  • Cherry Entertainment Center
  • Another Church Table
  • Inside Out Turning
  • Segmented Turning
  • Canon Ball Bed

Marker Groups

  • Members
  • Sponsors
  • Administrators
  • Forum Hosts


First Name

My Location

My Woodworking Interests

My skill level is

Website URL

Favorite Quote







Facebook URL

Twitter Feed URL

My Clubs and Organizations

Found 8 results

  1. There are a number of ways to repair minor damage or defects. What you choose is somewhat dependent upon when in the finishing process it appears and the type of damage. Dents Dents can occur in the raw wood (AKA white wood) or at any stage of finishing, including in a piece that’s finished and in use. You can often get out small dents, or at least 90% of the damage, by wetting the wood and steaming. In white wood you can just add in some water, let it soak for a while and applying some light heat with an old clothes iron over a damp cloth. (If you like being married, don’t just sneak your wife’s from the sewing room. I get mine as hand-me-downs when they need replacement). In a finished piece you can do the same thing, but you may need to poke some holes through the finish with a pin. If the wood has pronounced grain, like oak, you can reduce the pin prick look by hitting the open grain. Gaps or cracks Putty fill. There are a variety of putties, many in different colors and some even claiming to be “stainable.” Well, they do stain, but they often don’t look like wood when it’s stained (two parts of the wood might not even take the stain the same.) Perhaps a better approach is to stain and apply the first few coats of finish. Then get a colored putty or add some dye to a neutral colored putty, or several, and match the color near the crack. Apply the putty, let it dry, then apply the final coat of finish. Sawdust and glue. This may or may not work all that well. First, the sawdust will have significant portions of end-grain. Second, the glue may inhibit or alter the amount of stain absorbed. Some people have luck with this; I have not. Liquid epoxy Some people fill major damage such as cracks or knots with liquid epoxy. Poured in and sanded level when set. There is usually no attempt to match the color or grain but to use as an accent. Post –finish damage Wax sticks These are available in multiple colors. It can sometimes help to warm them slightly to make them softer. Again, you might mix several colors to mimic the wood graining. Most finishes don’t stick well to wax, so plan on using this after the finish, not during. Level by buffing. A piece of paper grocery bag works well for this. Epoxy putty or Polyester Filler These are good for larger damage, but you’ll need a way to restore the color and graining. The epoxy putty comes in sticks. Slice off a bit, mix with your fingers until uniform color and press into the damage. Depending upon the type it will harden in 5 – 60 minutes. While still soft, you can shape with an old credit card and soapy water. When partially set, it’s easy to trim with a chisel of razor blade. When fully set you can smooth with file or sandpaper. The polyester filler has a resin and a hardener. A common brand is Bondo. Mix together and apply to the damage. Shape when partially set with a chisel or razor blade and when set, with sandpaper. With both you’ll need to apply color to match. You can do this with marker pens made for touchup, colored toners, artists’ paints, colored pencils, or pigment powders. If the wood has open grain, you can restore this with very light cuts with a razor blade. Apply top coat finish when done. Burn-in repairs You do burn in repairs with a special stick of resin. You melt it with a heated knife and drip into the damage area. The knife is heated in an alcohol flame, a propane torch, a special "oven" or with an electric or butane knife. Then the fill is leveled with the knife. I find a “burn in balm” (sort of like Vaseline) helpful to keep the resin from smearing and the finish from being heat damaged. When level, abrade even with steel wool or sandpaper. I’ve seen a lot of people do these and no two seem to have the same technique. I’ve developed what has worked for me. When I was working full-time, I’d do these practically every day, sometimes up to 100 spots a day. There are two basic kinds of sticks, the traditional ones (originally called “shellac sticks”) that are hard and glossy, and the newer soft ones that have a lower sheen and are more resistant to impact damage. A good burn-in repair will be practically invisible if you get a good match on sheen, level, texture, graining, and color. Quick tutorial: But don't expect to get this right the first time. It takes some practice.
  2. Over the past week or two I've been working on a little bowl turning it from some ironwood a friend sent me. Being this was my first experience with this wood and not knowing how it would turn, it's been slowly progressing. Well I got it almost finished. Inside turned and sanded, outside turned and sanded all that was left was to finish off the bottom. I really liked the calabash rounded look for the bottom so I would need to chuck the piece to have full access to the bottom. A doughnut chuck seemed to be the best option. When I turned the lip, I knew it was a little thin, but it felt solid. Light passing thru the lip/side transition- I was so proud of myself- Nice shape, sanded much better than I usually do. And then it happened- I was just ready to switch over to the Easy Wood Finisher when I got a catch- The force of the catch cracked the rim lip- Too much time invested in this little bowl to pitch it out. But how to remount it? The tenon is gone and the rim is uneven. After some thought and 15 minutes of US Navy adjectives, I repurposed an old lathe jig into a jamb chuck adding a piece of rubber for friction/protection. Made a flat on the bottom of the bowl and then glued it to a wooden faceplate. After the glue set, I realized I should have made a "paper"glue joint for easier removal later. Not sure what I'm going to end up with- certainly not what I originally envisioned when I started!
  3. The old wood forum archives

    When the "WOOD" magazine forums were getting ready to shut down I understood the content was to be deleted. I stumbled across an old post of mine from 2011 the other day. Don't know if all the content is still out there but this one is for sure. Replacing a round tenon Steve
  4. Classes held at various locations around the US in wood and leather touch up and repair.
  5. Fixing a Loose Round Tenon

    While fitting arms to a rocker I am building, I pared down one side of the tenon a tad too far, and I had tenon that was too loose on side and too tight on the other. I did a little research and found a method that worked beautifully to fix this problem. Since the tenon is the last part that is shaped in the arm, this means I've already invested a bit of time in the arm, so I was not about to trash it over a loose tenon. So I wanted to salvage the arm. I had my own ideas on how to make this tenon tight, small un-viewable wedges in the mortise, among other ideas, but this idea I came upon was absolutely brilliant. Take note how loose the tenon is, then by eye use our block plane and round up a few shavings from it. The tenon below was shaped by hand, a combination of a hand saw and file, but one side of the tenon was had too much material removed. It looks pretty round, but when I fit it to the mortise, it was a horrible fit, especially after I tried to line up the arm with the front leg, it was angling in the wrong direction. Apply glue to the tenon, then wrap the tenon once with the shaving you produced from the hand plane, trim it, then wrap it again, build it up oversize, this way you can always reshape it. In this case, I wrapped it twice, (in the image below the tenon shoulders are shaped, I worked the shoulders to where I needed them thus the reason why it's a different look than the image above. But it's the same arm.) Trim the access off with a razor knife or other sharp implement of your choosing, and let it set. After I let it set for just an hour, I was able to re-shape the tenon and get the tight, exact fit I needed. It was a great recovery from what I first thought was a nearly hopeless situation. I wish I could quote or reference the source where I saw this fix, but in my haste to find a solution, I whizzed right through it, and out to the shop I went for the fix. I cannot take credit for this great idea, but I can show it off!
  6. Repairs in the Shop

    It will be a short week in the shop. We head out to Indiana on Thursday. Trying to finish a couple of repairs before we leave. Rocking chairs seem to be finding their way to my shop. I have two on the bench to be repaired. One is just a glue up. Seems the old glue just gave way and it separated. It is now in the clamps and should be out of here today. The other one has a broken rocker. They watch the Gorilla Glue commercials and tried to repair it. Even Gorilla Glue will not hold a broken rocker. So I am making two new rockers for this one. I had an old coffee table brought in that a piece of the mahogany veneer had gotten pulled loose in a move. Thankfully they saved the piece and brought it with them. Got it glued back in place and fit as best as it would go together. Hope you all have a fun week in your shop.
  7. The dog days of summer have certainly hit here in the South. It has been in the upper 90's every day with humidity of 70%. When you walk out side you are wearing the humidity. The air went out on my truck this week of all times and had to have it repaired. I was told there was a mixing gate behind the dash and they might have to pull the whole dash to change out the motor and if that was the case, it would be 800 to 900.00. Wow! But I got a call and they were able to change it out without pulling the dash and I got out for 250.00. Sure felt good going home yesterday when it was 98. So this week I finished the 100+ year old rocker and got it delivered to the owner on Wednesday night. It belonged to her Great Grandmother and had been passed down to her mother and now to her. The rockers were worn flat and one of them had cracked all the way through. So I made two new rockers out of white oak like the chair and rub it down with BLO, let it dry and then waxed it. The BLO was a nice match to the finish already on the chair. The back of the chair is the original backing but the bottom has been replaced. I also delivered another rocker that was made for a repair and got it delivered Wednesday night. I made a speaker cabinet last week and when he got it home the speaker didn't fit. He looked at the dimensions he gave me and they were inside, but he didn't tell me they were inside so I made them as the outside as I had done on the other two which were outside dimensions. So anyway, I rebuilt it for him and got it put together last night. It is sitting upside down, the opening will be on the bottom for the cables to pass through and connect to the sub woofer. And let me just say one more time that I really love the Bessey clamps. They are so nice and give such an even clamping. If you are ever looking to add clamps to your collections, I would recommend the Besseys. We are also finishing up another Green Egg table that will be delivered Saturday. So what are you Patriot Woodworkers doing in your shop this weekend? We here at TPW are always interested in what your are working on so please share your projects here with us. I'm waiting to see what you are doing.
  8. A Rocking Weekend

    I have had these two jobs on my board for a while and just seem to keep pushing them back. Saturday morning I got up early and headed to the shop to get some of these small jobs finished and out. I had a customer bring me a rocker that had broken on his old family rocker and ask if I could make a new one to match. He is going to stain to match the rocker and install so I just need to get it cut, smoothed and the mounting holes cut right for him. Here is the old one and the new one clamped to it. I also had this old rocking chair that is over 100 years old to make new rockers for. The old ones and worn flat and down to the point the post were about to come through the bottom. So I made two new ones for this rocker. The picture was before I drilled the holes and it seems I forgot to take one after I set it in them so I will post another picture tonight. All of the rockers were made of White oak. I made these for the old rocker a little thicker and it should rock for a long time now.

About us

We are a woodworking community with an emphasis on sharing and learning the skilled craft of woodworking and all of its related disciplines. Our community is open to everyone who wishes to join us. We support our veterans and active duty both here in the United States and in Canada, being a veteran is not a prerequisite to join. So please, join us! Please click on Join The Patriot Woodworker's.


We support MWTCA, preserving tools and implements from the past.

M-WTCA Logo.gif

Get in touch

Follow us

Recent tweets

Visit us on Facebook