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Found 114 results

  1. turned this today. will give it away.
  2. Introduction Our very own Patriot Woodworker John Mordus, or better known in our circles as @honesttjohn, is an artist on CNC (computer numerical control) woodworking. John was one of the first CNC woodworkers to join our community and helped crowd our new CNC forums. One of John's favorite creations he performs on his CNC machine are the military plaques he enjoys carving. You can see his CNC gallery featuring these very plaques here at: John's Contribution John contacted us and asked us if we could use any of his work to benefit our current project for our Gold Star Widow Nicole Merlo. As you all know we are in the midst of raising funds for the Merlo Family. The carvings below are for sale. All the proceeds from the sale of these items will be used to purchase their Christmas meal for the family, which is a stipulation of our project as assigned to us by Operation Ward 57. Yes I know, 200 dollars is a good fair amount for a Christmas meal, but let's hope the Merlo Family will have a Christmas meal they will never forget! Perhaps they'll invite some friends over, perhaps they'll go a Prime Rib route in addition to the traditional Turkey and Ham. Whatever they decide to do, it will be memorable, and they can shop without worry for their memorable Christmas meal as provided by you, The Patriot Woodworker's. Each plaque has approximately 10 hours of glue up and carving labor into them. These are American Crafts of high quality and workmanship. (shipping will be paid by the TPW community, so that all 200 dollars will reach the Merlo Family) How to purchase Please leave a reply to this topic here if you wish to purchase one or both of these beautiful carvings. Keep in mind, these are also displayed throughout our Merlo Family project portals such as Facebook and Twitter, we reserve the right to sell these carvings outside of our Patriot Woodworker community, all here will be notified immediately if one or both carvings sell outside of our community before they sell here. In Closing We want to thank everyone who has contributed to this project with your raffle ticket purchases, your "getting out the word campaigns", just being here, and all your best wishes for the success of this years Christmas project. And we want to thank John Mordus for his material contribution to the project. You all have come through wonderfully this year, nothing more can be asked of you all, we have some big donors of treasure through our raffle, and we have had some very important smaller donors through our raffle, because even though they don't have much for themselves, they still managed to come up with a few extra dollars to help make a difference in a Gold Star widows Christmas. All contributions hold equal weight, we have all given what we can, and most importantly, it was all done with heart. We truly have the greatest and smallest woodworking community in the cyber world. After all, we are: The Few, The Proud, The Patriot Woodworkers! Thank you Patriot Woodworkers!
  3. to Spray or brush

    Hi all I am finishing a pine door with a medium brown water based dye, then two coats of shellac then water based poly. My problem is the dye on hardwood always colors everything evenly. The Pine is not acting that way. It seems to have some issue. When dyed it is even and uniform. But by the time the first coat of shellac is put on with a brush or foam brush the dye is not uniform. Would I be better off spraying the shellac? If so the alchol is quite flamable and I need to turn off the water tank and furnance. When I get home I will upload some pictures. My very kind spouse says she likes the variation. This is my first endevour with a closed cell softwood.
  4. Warm Brown on Douglas Fir

    Hi all we purchased some barn doors made from douglas fir. We want to dye/stain to a warm brown with black grain. I figure dye warm brown then seal with 1 lbs cut of blond shellac then stain with a black/very dark brown stain. We want to stop blotching. Have a consistent brown background and black grian similiar to gunstock on oak. We need your help.
  5. Little pine bowl

    scrap from a 4x6 beam. will be stained and poly'd, then given as a gift to a Lady who is letting me hunt on her ranch next month.
  6. Dogwood Wall Cross - Select Pine

    From the album CWD Wall Crosses

    This is another Dogwood wall cross, this one is carved from Select Pine. The wavy surface of the cross twists and bends the grain pattern of the pine and adds a lot of character to the cross.
  7. Recycled 2x4s?

    Whew, working up a sweat now.... Hauled those 6 pieces of 2x4 down to the shop. Sat the three longer ones aside, for now.....at least until after a break.... The three shorter ones, well, they had a date with the bandsaw. I set up the resaw jig, just enough to peel off the edges past the rounded over stuff.. Maybe a 1/4"? Once all six edges were trimmed, a small plane was landed.. Ohio Tool Co. # 0-7 Jointer plane. I wanted the edges straight, free of sawmarks, and as square to the sides as I could get them.. Imagine walking around in a pile of this stuff.. Once all three boards were jointed along the sawn edges, I dug up a 3/4" thick piece of scrap. A pair of lines down the center of one edge marked a center line to saw. Reset the jig to the center of the two marks. recheck the bandsaw's table for square to the blade. Since I had to raise the saw guide a bit. Ran the three through, trying to stay centered... After a LONG break, I'll come back and plane the saw marks off. Might need that old jointer plane, again. 3 boards almost done, three to go.. Handsome critters, ain't they. hope to have them all S4S by this weekend. Might need a new blade in the bandsaw... Grandson will be here this weekend, I'll have him haul all them shavings out to the old garden plot. Not sure what I'll build out of these...yet. I also have a pile of other Pine scraps......stay tuned.
  8. Yard Clean Up?

    Although I have a nice saw til, full of very good handsaws.....I don't like to use them anywhere near nails and screws....so, I happen to have a saw just for that kind of work, hanging around.. That yellow handled saw from Aldi's... Ok, I had three old, nasty 2x4s outside, leaning against the shed. Nails, screws, hardware, and big bugs....no way am I bringing that mess down into the shop... Went through each 2x4, trying to cut out the worst of the mess.. Handsome, ain't they? Didn't even use a square, just the old MK-1 Eyeball......managed to get six good pieces out of the three... As for that saw... IF you get it started nice and straight, it will cut straight. It cuts FAST, though, if you use the entire blade. Well, got my "Cardio" for the day.....oh, and about the bad stuff that was chopped out/off? We have ways....who's got the hotdogs? I also use this thing to get rid of all the BIG cardboard trash. Intend to resaw those six boards down a bit....need small parts for that Pantry Project build. Might even cobble up a small box with some of it.. Saw is just an 8ppi, hardtooth, panel saw. handle doesn't feel too bad, no blisters this time. At least I did make a bit of sawdust, today....
  9. Bed from a (few) boards

    Have to start with a glue up . Did not think I could find 6 x 6 dry pine so here we go with 3 pieces of 2 x 6. Tried to get the knots toward the surface outer edges as these would be turned off. Remember you can never have too many clamps After squaring the blanks on table saw we will need a centered hole to assemble the two parts of the post as this lathe is not long enough to turn as one piece. Having that hole creates a stabilization problem for turning which is solved by using a cone center in the tailstock. The left picture is the fluting jig cutting the upper post . The right picture shows a closer look at the the jig cutting the post. These are the finished post parts with fluting done on one. Right picture shows the connection for the parts of the post. This round turning and finial go on top of the headboard and footboard. This shows the incomplete mortise and tenon to join the posts to foot and head boards. The raised panels are installed and at this point are prestained. The complete project. Not exact but a close similarity to a bed we lost when our house was flooded over 30 years ago.
  10. Vacation is about over...

    As I went out to Lowes to buy some more Gold Plated Pine.... A 2 x 4 x 8'.....a 1 x 4 x 8', and a 1 x 8 x 8'.....$20.26 counting my Mil. ID 10% discount. I could have driven the 28 miles to Menards, and saved about a dollar a board, but Menards doesn't do the Military ID discount. And the gas for the round trip......Lowes is here in town, just 2 miles away. Letting the boards sit in the shop for a day, maybe. Need to crosscut , joint, and glue up for a top. Rip the 2x into four leg blanks. I thought about turning the legs...until I looked at all the junk laying ON the lathe...might just taper two sides instead. 1x4 for the aprons. I could even add a drawer, as I have some plywood stock left over. give it a day or two, and I'll start up the build thread, again... Stay tuned...
  11. Box of Pine project, a PIP

    Once I got the hardware installed, and some NEW batteries in the camera.... Inside view, showing the lip. I try to pick plywood to show the best grain. Plain jane stuff just is so....plain.. This is the end with the repair. Look right under that center knot... And the other end. Finish will get a rub down tomorrow...sometime... Front view. The hinges are around back... Tiny things, too. Not sure what will go inside this little box..yet. Might be too fancy for a tool box?
  12. Cartoon Owl

    My daughter requested me to make a cartoon like owl for a very close friend who loves owls so much she even has an owl tattoo. I can't carve due to a condition in my hands, so I had to use my woodworking machines. I started with a pine block, cut the basic shape on the band saw and turned it down on the lathe. Then shaped with my spindle sander. I used a picture of a real owl for inspiration. She wanted it cartoon like, so I put spectacles and a hat on him. Hope she likes it.
  13. Build-a-box how-to

    Ok, I have four pieces of 3/8" thick pine.....all nicely sized, and planed smooth... All have been planed to the same sizes. Part of this project is to serve as a how to......at least the way I hand cut box joints/finger joints. The 2 longs are up, first. Square a line on one end, showing the thickness of the mating part.. Top line is from laying the short side piece and marking a line, lower one is with a square. Next, I get out the "layout tool"... Yep, just the same chisel I will use to chop out the waste with.. Spacing is just a pencil line along the chisel, working from one edge to the other edge. (Tip: use a SHARP pencil for this) I use a square to carry the lines around both sides. I also saw both long sides at the same time.... Saw down the the "base line". and clip the waste off on the ends... Then remove the two from the vise, and open up like a book.. And mark this as the inside of the box, along with a T and a B... Top & Bottom. Set one piece aside for a little bit, and get ready to chisel things out.. Some of the usual suspects. Needed a mallet, and a clamp. Been using a scrap board on the bench, to keep from beating the heck out of the bench's top. Old piece of plywood doesn't care IF it gets beat up. Square and a knife...cutting a knife wall. Takes about 3-5 swipes. Now, each of the little squares will just have to leave, but, don't get in a hurry. has to be done in two stages, otherwise you risk blowing out the other side. I take the chisel and hold it back from the base line ( Knife wall) and pare a bit out. Bevel of the chisel is away from the base line. Peel a bit out, chop with the flat of the chisel against the base line, and repeat.. You can either remove the bit tothe outside edge, or leave it there, doesn't matter much. It does support things when you flip the board over. Ok, work your way along this face of the board, Before you leave each finger, add a chop with the chisel at the base line...helps to remove the waste in a bit.. Flip the board over Same as before, strike the knife wall, peel abit back with the chisel...usually the first or second chisel hit at the base line will cause the waste to either lay down....or.. fly up out of there.. I use a wider chisel to dress the fingers. Make they look spiffy. Unclamp this piece, grab the short piece you used to mark the first line with. Stand the completed fingers onto the short piece, keeping inside to inside and top to top... SHARP pencil to mark where the fingers are. Saw the short piece on the waste side of the lines. Repeat the chisel work And do a test fit. (needs a tune up..) Adjust fingers IF they are too tight. One corner done, 3 to go. And, THAT is how I do box joints. Not all that hard to do, and a lot quieter than a tablesaw roaring along. I use this to post about the box build. Pine was resawn from the last of the un-treated 4 x4s I had in the shop. ( BTW: Already have 2 corners done.....might get the other two tomorrow....don't want to rush things...) Stay tuned..
  14. "new" mitre box test drive

    Remember when I picked this mitre box a while back? Well, what little rust and dirt that was on this, is now gone. Met a fellow from the Cinci, Oh area who had the saw that MIGHT work. Paid $20 for it. While not the 4" x 26"....I think I can make do with this 4" x 24" version ( was made for the Stanley 2244A box) So, here we go. Boards are a few pieces of resawn pine. I already tried one laying flat......saw is quite sharp enough for that...yet. I needed the pine blanks cut to length ( note the time stamp) Less than 2 minutes later, this board is trimmed to length. And, I get a Cardio workout as well..... There is a Disston HK Porter stamped in the steel spine. There is a very readable etch on the saw's plate.. Might give it a dose of Gun Blue paste later, to bring things out better. Stanley logo, with the clipped corners box. " Made expressly for..." Not the best looking handle.....Medallion says it is a Disston USA. I have since found a fellow that sharpens these sort of saws.....so, maybe I can get these done The one in the back is a 5" x 28" for the larger mitre box I have. There is the 18" craftsman, and a #4 backsaw. @ $0.60 per inch...might take a few trips to get these all done. There is a home for the mitre box and it's saw.. Called "Home Station" As for those pine boards? two longs, and two shorts. That metal plate ahead of them? Piece of old saw plate ( with the teeth still attached, mind you) is attached to a wood bench dog. I didn't like hitting the plastic dog with the plane. Saw plate is much thinner, and the teeth hold better. Since this is a Tools thread.....the plane? Is a Millers Falls No. 11 ( Stanley size 5-1/4), type 2 Junior Jack plane. More of a long smoother, in a #3 width. 11" long makes it easy to move around on the smaller stuff. As for the boards themselves? Well, that will be in the woodworking section.....stay tuned. Will also let you know how the sharpening service does.....11ppi is just too tiny in teeth for my eyes.
  15. A dresser for some chisels?

    Found a location to stash those "extra" chisels in... Located under the bench, in fact. Right about there. Had a 1 x 10 x 8' I can cut down, and a few scraps of stuff....Resaw a few crosscuts, and make a few parts.. One front and two sides for a second drawer, will add the fancy overlay front later. The rest are four corner posts, and that "square" block is actually 8 rails for the two sides. Chop a few dovetails, again.. Then do the other corner Which left a lot of grooves to make with the Stanley #45, again...except this time... I decided to cut a few elsewhere. The sides will be joined in a frame and panel sort of thing. Needed a groove all around to house the plywoodsides, and the rails Needed to be 1/2" deep. Takes a while. Need to do the four corner posts like this, then shift the jig to do 8 rails. The shift again to plough the grooves for the drawer's bottom panel. Jigs needed pilot holes...but for some reason, my thumb thought it needed one too. Will get back to "ploughing" after supper.....might take awhile to do...stay tuned to this batty channel...
  16. You can't tell it, but this is a beetle kill pine frame. I made a lot of things out of it. I made this frame for my wife for her embroidery ladies. She made about 6 of them. The pin in her hair is real and highlights the work. She took one look at my beetle kill pine and said, NO. Its got to be black. I really wanted to show Karen's beautiful handy work.
  17. Tote for a drawer?

    Well, sorted through that pile of Orphans, re moved the chisels and the screwdrivers, and was left with this..pile.. Hmm, got almost than many upstairs, The Stanley #70 is just along for the ride...thought I make a tote that would fit inside Drawer #4. Nothing real fancy, just use up the big scraps.. Started with these two. Earlier, they were just the cut-offs from the 1xs from the drawer builds. random angle, whatever looked good. I was going to use this other board for the bottom... But...plans got changed, somewhere down the line....as this wasn't going to work with these.. Dovetails into edge grain...do not work. Cut the mess off, re-located them to an end grain side. Bottom board now became the side of the tote. But, I only had ONE long board....I did have a 1x2 about the right length. Made a notch to house it, and a screw and glue to hold it. Sized some plywood scraps to fit.. Plywood is glued and nailed in place, ends are glued up. Will let this mess sit overnight, and then see about a handle, and MAYBE a divider or two... Trying to "whittle down" that pile of scraps...stay tuned for part two.
  18. cardtrunk(2).jpg

    From the album Furniture and tables

    drawers for card trunk
  19. cardtrunk.jpg

    From the album Furniture and tables

    Card trunk made from pine shelves with inner trays
  20. Valance

    Here is the valance that I made for the spare bedroom.
  21. Steam Box Joints

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    After about an hour of steaming the chair posts, the joints in the box starting acting up as I expected. They expanded and warped, but surprisingly maintained a seal. The box held up wonderfully.
  22. The Steam Box

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    My set up is a pine box 6"x6"x48" with an Earlex Steamer.
  23. night stand, end table ?

    · I built this about 20 years ago and I finally took a picture or two. It is made out of pine and black walnut. The wood had been in my shop for several years and was dry. I know you are not supposed to join soft woods and hard woods but I did and they have not contracted or expanded. After 20 years I think I'm ok. I like to build things without plans so I can always get it right! It is 25" high by 21' wide by 17' deep. Preston
  24. Work on Bed

    Got the Bed that we've been working done and set up. I did build a valance for the window but we don't have it stained yet. I'll post a picture later. Still have more to do for the spare room.
  25. WIP: Top gets framed

    Well, a Work In progess for the frame for the top panel to sit in. Added a few jigs to the bench, to hold things still long enough to at least smooth the parts. And get them flat. Just a sample of what I had to clean up... And there was one one the wood jaws of the end vise. Both had a "V" notch in them as well..holds angled parts better getting ahead of meself here...anyway, I used a few bench planes to flatten the parts down A cambered jack took down the saw marks fast, then a follow up with either a #6c, or a #5-1/2 plane... I was wading about ankle deep in those thingys. Next, I needed to set up the sash cutter, and get it working.. Ok, a few things going on here: yes, that is where the screws go when this frame is put together. No. not enough room to use a vise for this work....fence issues. Cordless drivers drill the pilot holes, and install/remove the screws as needed. Rounded part of the sash molding is to the outside. A BIG rebate is going on the inside. Cutter only goes so wide, which leaves a "lip" back there. had to bring out a few other tools for that rebate.. Mainly that #78. The woodie also got used, as did the block plane. The shorter ends weren't too bad to do, but the longer ones... One of the fastest ways to get rid of the 1/2" wide lip on these was that #5c laying there. Then clean the mess up with the usual suspects. Got all the rails done, finally, and decided to try a test fit.. Hmmm, needed a better square cut.....BRB.....ah, drill a small pilot hole, install the screw, for now need to do the other three corners, add some glue, and decide on the center brace. The frame will get a center piece, front to back, to help with the middle of the plywood panel. All of that, next time, on this Batty Channel...stay tuned for part 2.

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