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Found 105 results

  1. Bed from a (few) boards

    Have to start with a glue up . Did not think I could find 6 x 6 dry pine so here we go with 3 pieces of 2 x 6. Tried to get the knots toward the surface outer edges as these would be turned off. Remember you can never have too many clamps After squaring the blanks on table saw we will need a centered hole to assemble the two parts of the post as this lathe is not long enough to turn as one piece. Having that hole creates a stabilization problem for turning which is solved by using a cone center in the tailstock. The left picture is the fluting jig cutting the upper post . The right picture shows a closer look at the the jig cutting the post. These are the finished post parts with fluting done on one. Right picture shows the connection for the parts of the post. This round turning and finial go on top of the headboard and footboard. This shows the incomplete mortise and tenon to join the posts to foot and head boards. The raised panels are installed and at this point are prestained. The complete project. Not exact but a close similarity to a bed we lost when our house was flooded over 30 years ago.
  2. Dogwood Wall Cross - Select Pine

    From the album CWD Wall Crosses

    This is another Dogwood wall cross, this one is carved from Select Pine. The wavy surface of the cross twists and bends the grain pattern of the pine and adds a lot of character to the cross.
  3. Recycled 2x4s?

    Whew, working up a sweat now.... Hauled those 6 pieces of 2x4 down to the shop. Sat the three longer ones aside, for now.....at least until after a break.... The three shorter ones, well, they had a date with the bandsaw. I set up the resaw jig, just enough to peel off the edges past the rounded over stuff.. Maybe a 1/4"? Once all six edges were trimmed, a small plane was landed.. Ohio Tool Co. # 0-7 Jointer plane. I wanted the edges straight, free of sawmarks, and as square to the sides as I could get them.. Imagine walking around in a pile of this stuff.. Once all three boards were jointed along the sawn edges, I dug up a 3/4" thick piece of scrap. A pair of lines down the center of one edge marked a center line to saw. Reset the jig to the center of the two marks. recheck the bandsaw's table for square to the blade. Since I had to raise the saw guide a bit. Ran the three through, trying to stay centered... After a LONG break, I'll come back and plane the saw marks off. Might need that old jointer plane, again. 3 boards almost done, three to go.. Handsome critters, ain't they. hope to have them all S4S by this weekend. Might need a new blade in the bandsaw... Grandson will be here this weekend, I'll have him haul all them shavings out to the old garden plot. Not sure what I'll build out of these...yet. I also have a pile of other Pine scraps......stay tuned.
  4. Yard Clean Up?

    Although I have a nice saw til, full of very good handsaws.....I don't like to use them anywhere near nails and screws....so, I happen to have a saw just for that kind of work, hanging around.. That yellow handled saw from Aldi's... Ok, I had three old, nasty 2x4s outside, leaning against the shed. Nails, screws, hardware, and big bugs....no way am I bringing that mess down into the shop... Went through each 2x4, trying to cut out the worst of the mess.. Handsome, ain't they? Didn't even use a square, just the old MK-1 Eyeball......managed to get six good pieces out of the three... As for that saw... IF you get it started nice and straight, it will cut straight. It cuts FAST, though, if you use the entire blade. Well, got my "Cardio" for the day.....oh, and about the bad stuff that was chopped out/off? We have ways....who's got the hotdogs? I also use this thing to get rid of all the BIG cardboard trash. Intend to resaw those six boards down a bit....need small parts for that Pantry Project build. Might even cobble up a small box with some of it.. Saw is just an 8ppi, hardtooth, panel saw. handle doesn't feel too bad, no blisters this time. At least I did make a bit of sawdust, today....
  5. Vacation is about over...

    As I went out to Lowes to buy some more Gold Plated Pine.... A 2 x 4 x 8'.....a 1 x 4 x 8', and a 1 x 8 x 8'.....$20.26 counting my Mil. ID 10% discount. I could have driven the 28 miles to Menards, and saved about a dollar a board, but Menards doesn't do the Military ID discount. And the gas for the round trip......Lowes is here in town, just 2 miles away. Letting the boards sit in the shop for a day, maybe. Need to crosscut , joint, and glue up for a top. Rip the 2x into four leg blanks. I thought about turning the legs...until I looked at all the junk laying ON the lathe...might just taper two sides instead. 1x4 for the aprons. I could even add a drawer, as I have some plywood stock left over. give it a day or two, and I'll start up the build thread, again... Stay tuned...
  6. Build-a-box how-to

    Ok, I have four pieces of 3/8" thick pine.....all nicely sized, and planed smooth... All have been planed to the same sizes. Part of this project is to serve as a how to......at least the way I hand cut box joints/finger joints. The 2 longs are up, first. Square a line on one end, showing the thickness of the mating part.. Top line is from laying the short side piece and marking a line, lower one is with a square. Next, I get out the "layout tool"... Yep, just the same chisel I will use to chop out the waste with.. Spacing is just a pencil line along the chisel, working from one edge to the other edge. (Tip: use a SHARP pencil for this) I use a square to carry the lines around both sides. I also saw both long sides at the same time.... Saw down the the "base line". and clip the waste off on the ends... Then remove the two from the vise, and open up like a book.. And mark this as the inside of the box, along with a T and a B... Top & Bottom. Set one piece aside for a little bit, and get ready to chisel things out.. Some of the usual suspects. Needed a mallet, and a clamp. Been using a scrap board on the bench, to keep from beating the heck out of the bench's top. Old piece of plywood doesn't care IF it gets beat up. Square and a knife...cutting a knife wall. Takes about 3-5 swipes. Now, each of the little squares will just have to leave, but, don't get in a hurry. has to be done in two stages, otherwise you risk blowing out the other side. I take the chisel and hold it back from the base line ( Knife wall) and pare a bit out. Bevel of the chisel is away from the base line. Peel a bit out, chop with the flat of the chisel against the base line, and repeat.. You can either remove the bit tothe outside edge, or leave it there, doesn't matter much. It does support things when you flip the board over. Ok, work your way along this face of the board, Before you leave each finger, add a chop with the chisel at the base line...helps to remove the waste in a bit.. Flip the board over Same as before, strike the knife wall, peel abit back with the chisel...usually the first or second chisel hit at the base line will cause the waste to either lay down....or.. fly up out of there.. I use a wider chisel to dress the fingers. Make they look spiffy. Unclamp this piece, grab the short piece you used to mark the first line with. Stand the completed fingers onto the short piece, keeping inside to inside and top to top... SHARP pencil to mark where the fingers are. Saw the short piece on the waste side of the lines. Repeat the chisel work And do a test fit. (needs a tune up..) Adjust fingers IF they are too tight. One corner done, 3 to go. And, THAT is how I do box joints. Not all that hard to do, and a lot quieter than a tablesaw roaring along. I use this to post about the box build. Pine was resawn from the last of the un-treated 4 x4s I had in the shop. ( BTW: Already have 2 corners done.....might get the other two tomorrow....don't want to rush things...) Stay tuned..
  7. Box of Pine project, a PIP

    Once I got the hardware installed, and some NEW batteries in the camera.... Inside view, showing the lip. I try to pick plywood to show the best grain. Plain jane stuff just is so....plain.. This is the end with the repair. Look right under that center knot... And the other end. Finish will get a rub down tomorrow...sometime... Front view. The hinges are around back... Tiny things, too. Not sure what will go inside this little box..yet. Might be too fancy for a tool box?
  8. Cartoon Owl

    My daughter requested me to make a cartoon like owl for a very close friend who loves owls so much she even has an owl tattoo. I can't carve due to a condition in my hands, so I had to use my woodworking machines. I started with a pine block, cut the basic shape on the band saw and turned it down on the lathe. Then shaped with my spindle sander. I used a picture of a real owl for inspiration. She wanted it cartoon like, so I put spectacles and a hat on him. Hope she likes it.
  9. "new" mitre box test drive

    Remember when I picked this mitre box a while back? Well, what little rust and dirt that was on this, is now gone. Met a fellow from the Cinci, Oh area who had the saw that MIGHT work. Paid $20 for it. While not the 4" x 26"....I think I can make do with this 4" x 24" version ( was made for the Stanley 2244A box) So, here we go. Boards are a few pieces of resawn pine. I already tried one laying flat......saw is quite sharp enough for that...yet. I needed the pine blanks cut to length ( note the time stamp) Less than 2 minutes later, this board is trimmed to length. And, I get a Cardio workout as well..... There is a Disston HK Porter stamped in the steel spine. There is a very readable etch on the saw's plate.. Might give it a dose of Gun Blue paste later, to bring things out better. Stanley logo, with the clipped corners box. " Made expressly for..." Not the best looking handle.....Medallion says it is a Disston USA. I have since found a fellow that sharpens these sort of saws.....so, maybe I can get these done The one in the back is a 5" x 28" for the larger mitre box I have. There is the 18" craftsman, and a #4 backsaw. @ $0.60 per inch...might take a few trips to get these all done. There is a home for the mitre box and it's saw.. Called "Home Station" As for those pine boards? two longs, and two shorts. That metal plate ahead of them? Piece of old saw plate ( with the teeth still attached, mind you) is attached to a wood bench dog. I didn't like hitting the plastic dog with the plane. Saw plate is much thinner, and the teeth hold better. Since this is a Tools thread.....the plane? Is a Millers Falls No. 11 ( Stanley size 5-1/4), type 2 Junior Jack plane. More of a long smoother, in a #3 width. 11" long makes it easy to move around on the smaller stuff. As for the boards themselves? Well, that will be in the woodworking section.....stay tuned. Will also let you know how the sharpening service does.....11ppi is just too tiny in teeth for my eyes.
  10. A dresser for some chisels?

    Found a location to stash those "extra" chisels in... Located under the bench, in fact. Right about there. Had a 1 x 10 x 8' I can cut down, and a few scraps of stuff....Resaw a few crosscuts, and make a few parts.. One front and two sides for a second drawer, will add the fancy overlay front later. The rest are four corner posts, and that "square" block is actually 8 rails for the two sides. Chop a few dovetails, again.. Then do the other corner Which left a lot of grooves to make with the Stanley #45, again...except this time... I decided to cut a few elsewhere. The sides will be joined in a frame and panel sort of thing. Needed a groove all around to house the plywoodsides, and the rails Needed to be 1/2" deep. Takes a while. Need to do the four corner posts like this, then shift the jig to do 8 rails. The shift again to plough the grooves for the drawer's bottom panel. Jigs needed pilot holes...but for some reason, my thumb thought it needed one too. Will get back to "ploughing" after supper.....might take awhile to do...stay tuned to this batty channel...
  11. Work on Bed

    Got the Bed that we've been working done and set up. I did build a valance for the window but we don't have it stained yet. I'll post a picture later. Still have more to do for the spare room.
  12. Tote for a drawer?

    Well, sorted through that pile of Orphans, re moved the chisels and the screwdrivers, and was left with this..pile.. Hmm, got almost than many upstairs, The Stanley #70 is just along for the ride...thought I make a tote that would fit inside Drawer #4. Nothing real fancy, just use up the big scraps.. Started with these two. Earlier, they were just the cut-offs from the 1xs from the drawer builds. random angle, whatever looked good. I was going to use this other board for the bottom... But...plans got changed, somewhere down the line....as this wasn't going to work with these.. Dovetails into edge grain...do not work. Cut the mess off, re-located them to an end grain side. Bottom board now became the side of the tote. But, I only had ONE long board....I did have a 1x2 about the right length. Made a notch to house it, and a screw and glue to hold it. Sized some plywood scraps to fit.. Plywood is glued and nailed in place, ends are glued up. Will let this mess sit overnight, and then see about a handle, and MAYBE a divider or two... Trying to "whittle down" that pile of scraps...stay tuned for part two.
  13. Valance

    Here is the valance that I made for the spare bedroom.
  14. cardtrunk(2).jpg

    From the album Furniture and tables

    drawers for card trunk
  15. cardtrunk.jpg

    From the album Furniture and tables

    Card trunk made from pine shelves with inner trays
  16. Steam Box Joints

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    After about an hour of steaming the chair posts, the joints in the box starting acting up as I expected. They expanded and warped, but surprisingly maintained a seal. The box held up wonderfully.
  17. The Steam Box

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    My set up is a pine box 6"x6"x48" with an Earlex Steamer.
  18. WIP: Top gets framed

    Well, a Work In progess for the frame for the top panel to sit in. Added a few jigs to the bench, to hold things still long enough to at least smooth the parts. And get them flat. Just a sample of what I had to clean up... And there was one one the wood jaws of the end vise. Both had a "V" notch in them as well..holds angled parts better getting ahead of meself here...anyway, I used a few bench planes to flatten the parts down A cambered jack took down the saw marks fast, then a follow up with either a #6c, or a #5-1/2 plane... I was wading about ankle deep in those thingys. Next, I needed to set up the sash cutter, and get it working.. Ok, a few things going on here: yes, that is where the screws go when this frame is put together. No. not enough room to use a vise for this work....fence issues. Cordless drivers drill the pilot holes, and install/remove the screws as needed. Rounded part of the sash molding is to the outside. A BIG rebate is going on the inside. Cutter only goes so wide, which leaves a "lip" back there. had to bring out a few other tools for that rebate.. Mainly that #78. The woodie also got used, as did the block plane. The shorter ends weren't too bad to do, but the longer ones... One of the fastest ways to get rid of the 1/2" wide lip on these was that #5c laying there. Then clean the mess up with the usual suspects. Got all the rails done, finally, and decided to try a test fit.. Hmmm, needed a better square cut.....BRB.....ah, drill a small pilot hole, install the screw, for now need to do the other three corners, add some glue, and decide on the center brace. The frame will get a center piece, front to back, to help with the middle of the plywood panel. All of that, next time, on this Batty Channel...stay tuned for part 2.
  19. A Work in Progress

    Between using that Stanley 45 and learning this new camera's tricks. Made the lumber Run today....Cheapest 2 x 4 x8' was..$3.15....at Lowes.. Got three and a 2'x4' panel of 1/4" plywood. Good thing I get a 10% discount for my Mil. ID... Got the "Treasures" down to the shop, and let them sit awhile....had other things to do... had four more blanks to surface S4S.. Used a couple larger planes for that job ( and you'll what the camera is doing, too) That be a Stanley No.5-1/2, sitting in front of a stanley No. 6c Apparently, the "Macro" setting was still on? Or not.. Anyway, i got the four blanks looking decent enough.. seems to be a lot of glare off the overhead light, too. Decided to give the Stanley 45 a good run for it's money... Got going too fast and rough on one edge...and the depth stop came off the cutter. Got to checking the cutter....yuck, instead of a flat bevel, it has a rounded bevel...like a beer belly. Will take the time tomorrow to straight that out. Decided I could drill a hole into each end( tenons go there, anyway) and attach the blank to the side of the bench. Needed to counter sink the holes a bit, so the fence won't hit the screws.. Need to resize this one down, camera makes too big a picture. Brace is a 6" Keen Kutter, by Millers falls. Anyway, Once the blank was set up.. I could pound away with the 45. Once each blank was done, time to make some tenons on the ends. BTW: I cleaned the rebate with an older plane.. So,..tenons. I used the first blank to mark out where the tenons would be. Took the blank around to the mitre box and cut the shoulders... Has a stop cut set just about right. Once both ends were cut, I could walk back around to the bench, and do the cheek cut.. And let the waste drop off. Cleaned up with a chisel.. Kept trying to find out which setting worked the best, depending on how close I was....not always working out. I got two with both edges done, and one for the bottom of the side. The bottom and top blanks only have one molded edge. Legs started to get crampy....and even the ribs. Time to call it a day. Of the two blanks left to do ( out of five) both will be either a bottom or a top blank. Too many knots. New 2x4 should be able to give me a few knot-free blanks, I hope. Too tired and sore right now, maybe tomorrow,eh?
  20. Reindeer parts.

    Went out to Blue Borg today, bought a 1x 6 x 48" Pine board. Figured I could cut out a few parts for the reindeer replacement.... Used an old saw to cut all these out with.. Has a 1/4" blade...should have gotten a 1/8" scrolling blade....no more than i use the saw, meh Had to drill a few ''turn-around" holes, as the blade couldn't quite make some of the turns. Have a 1" x 30" beltsander to remove the saw marks, then I plugged in another power tool.. 1/4" round-over bit. Rounded the outside edges of the parts.....antlers were fun to do....stood all the parts up, and placed the antlers in place... Should have used the 3/8" round-over bit. These are just standing there, no nails, nor glue used, yet. Still have enough pine left over for two more.. I might just clean up the old scrollsaw, and see how it works on these. this will do for a start...
  21. Steam!

    From the album Steam Bending Wood

    Yes, it works! I opened the door and steam was pouring out!
  22. Steam Box Thermometer

    From the album Steam Bending Wood

    I drilled a small hole to insert a meat thermometer that I found in our kitchen drawer.
  23. Steam Box Build

    From the album Steam Bending Wood

    I am building a steam box for bending shaker chair parts. This is the first progress picture.
  24. That time of year again

    Posted this last year, might have to make a few more this time around... Only takes a 1 x 6 x 8' to make all four of these.....need to find the patterns again, and the other supplies.... This one is a bit "blocky", I have been known to use a router table and a 3/8" round-over bit, to round things out.. Big red bow, and a red nose. Black sharpie for the eyes. Nails and glue to hold things in place. Hot-melt glue to hold the "antlers" ....just in case Rudolph should fall over. Hot melt will give way before any of the wood will. Usually stain the antlers a dark walnut. Sometimes, I will even use real Walnut. depending on what I use to cut out the parts, each Rudolph will take about,...1/2 an hour to do..
  25. Reindeer "plans"

    Start with a length of 1x6 pine. You will need two of these front legs.. I use a 3/8" roundover bit for the outside edges. You will need two for the back legs, as well. I use a 3/8" drill to make cutting that one curved spot a bit smoother. Again, chose one face for the "outside" and round it over. The reason for using a 1x6? Is because of the "body" . Curve at the front of the neck is a 3/8" drill bit, behind the neck I use a 1/4" drill bit. These necks have a bad habit of snapping. The notch to hold the Antler piece is sized to the thickness of the antler piece. Speaking of which.. Max the Wonder Pup decided to chew one tine. It is supposed to match the other long tine. Notch matches the thickness of the body. This and the body get a round-over on both faces. A few more looks at the body? That "tail is about a 1" diameter circle. Right on the tip of the nose...it should be a flat spot to glue the red fuzzy ball for the red nose. Squares on this grid are at 1" intervals. Wasn't sure IF anyone can do a file of some sort, to print these out. Legs get a spot of glue and two 1" finish nails. Had a lot of trouble separating them from the body. Used to use a "golden oak " stain for the body, and a dark walnut for the antlers. When done and a big red bow glued in place.. Should look like these two in front. The fun part is when you attach the legs, as they are what the reindeer sits on, they need to be in-line with the bottom edge of the body, no rocking allowed.. I do they with a narrow "scrolling" (1/8) blade on the bandsaw. A scrollsaw could be used. Any questions? be sure to ask...

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