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Found 13 results

  1. Whatever poisonous garbage the Chinese are putting on Harbor frieght chisels is dangerous stuff. I smoked just a little of it off welding the bases of their 4" brick chisels. The stuff made my shop all smoky and like when one burns rubber there were weird floaties of black goo floating in the air. Then the sickness set in. My throat became terribly raw and I have sinus issues. I've never had a paint do this. I can't even guess what they used.
  2. Every once in a while we want to put an opaque finish (paint) on a wood project. One problem that occurs is "blocking" of water-borne finishes. This is a property where the finish glues itself to objects or itself. Faces or edges in contact glue themselves together. Books (that sit for a long time) or lamps, etc. get glued in place. Generally this is a problem with cheaper finishes. And it's more likely for a partially cured finish. What to do -- look for a product that has blocking resistance. This usually means passing up the $15 a gallon paint at Wal*mart and going for a more expensive paint. Though it might take some research through the vendor or manufacturer's site to determine which products those are. Paints with 100% acrylic resin, as opposed to other resins used in these paints, are most likely to have minimal blocking. The labels and names (blah-blah) are likely to be of little help. Another alternative, when possible, is to avoid water-borne products. If you can spray lacquer, that would be an alternative. So would using an oil-based paint if you are in an area where you can buy it. Tales from the touch-up guy: A few years ago, I got a call from an interior designer with a problem. She had contracted to have a bookcase built for a customer. It was painted with a gray paint. The bookcase was just a series of different shaped boxes that stacked in various ways. Within a few months, the boxes had glued themselves together. I got the call to fix it. I ended up having to actually pry the boxes apart with a pry bar to get some of them apart. And they were so well glued that few places actually pulled off the top veneer from the plywood. Got it fixed up and repainted the damaged spots. Let it cure for a few days. Then I applied a clear high-quality w/b finish. Let that cure for a week. Then I applied a furniture wax as a barrier coat. Got family in next week, so I'm probably going to take off Christmas and New Year's Day posts. More reading: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/ask-sherwin-williams/problem-solver/peeling-cracking/sw-article-dir-adhesion-block
  3. Folks, another long project in our saga of refinancing our home through the VA. We are now neck deep in tear out and rebuild of our entire second story master bedroom balcony and shade structure for the patio below. The wood was dry-rotted, I let it go waaay too long. And now I have it all ripped out, and I got a stack full of wonderful Rough Doug Fir for the project. While I have been performing the structural portion of this project, wife and kids have been painting the boards. We purchased some 6" mini rollers 3/4 nap. The problem is the fibers from the roughsawn lumber coat the rollers to the point that they become a hardened mess almost, just imagine a tiny splinters getting entangled in the nap. We need a thick nap, because the lumber is rough, but at the same time, the nap gets clogged with the fibers. Any suggestions on a type of roller to use are greatly appreciated. Spraying is out of the question because of our proximity to neighbors and we don't really have anywhere to set up for that. Plus, my wife and kids are having some wonderful "bonding" moments during this project, I'd rather keep them painting as a team. Here is a few images of what I am doing. The old balcony and deck and shade structure before. Shade structure is gone. Balcony gone. About two thirds of the lumber is sitting here, the rest is in our shop. The painting operation. This is a complete removal and replace, nothing will be used over, accept the ledgers against the house, they are in great condition and bolted firmly to the home. Thanks VA for forcing me off me arse!
  4. Painting Poplar

    Folks, I have some nice poplar boards, and I am going to make another vanity with the boards, for another bathroom in our home. The entire vanity will be poplar, the outside will be painted a cream white or off white, and the inside will be varnished. The poplar I have has those wonderful dark green and dark streaks, I have heard that poplar colors will bleed through most paints, what can I do to prevent the bleed through, or is what I have heard and read a myth? Thanks!
  5. Needed a sign made...

    Have a road trip this weekend to go to.....about 402 miles one way. A weekend get together of woodworkers. Needed a sign made, like the ones from M.A.S.H. 4077th, to show where we came from.. Had a strip of plywood left over.....instant sign board. Painted it BRIGHT RED. More on that in a moment.. Bought two bags of letters. Not enough time or saw blades to cut them with the scrollsaw... Bought a box of nails.. Letters needed a coat of paint.... "Paint it black"? ( might be a song title in there, somewhere....) Tried them out with the sign board.. "(NEVER work on a Monday..) Every time I'd hit a letter with the spray paint, it wanted to fly away. Finally got an old screwdriver to hold them still...let this mess dry for a while.... Yep...see IF you can spot the mistake.... Town is now known as Bellefontaine....it's original name ( even before OHIO) was BlueJacket's Town. The Shawnee War Chief's town he called home. The High School's colours are Red & Black. Needed a pilot hole drilled, to hang the sign.. All the cordless drills were elsewhere....seemed to do ok.. Needed a countersink made, too.. Might just do. All those tiny nails....too small for my fingers to hold onto, AND hammer them in place. Used a pair of needle nosed pliers. Still managed to bend a few. The only hammer I could find that would really drive those nails..was a 16 oz claw hammer. Later, after things cool off around here, I'll paint a new "J" letter to replace the backwards one. I'll get back to making the doors for the Pantry Cupboard, when I get back home..and NOT on a Monday....
  6. "What news for Mordor....

    ...what does the Great Eye say?" "We have work to do..." Soo, as for that langdon mitre box.. Need a hammerdrill to loosen the bolts that held these feet in place....rusty & krusty. Used a bowl to hold all the bolts coming off of the box.. Had already cleaned a few of these parts.....frame is quite nasty, dirty, and a touch rusty... I already have cleaned the quadrant scale. As for the two plates that make up the deck? Wire wheel to clean the painted sides up, sander to clean the non-painted sides...can of RED paint.. I intend to get some good out od this old stand..... Ooops...oh well..compost happens. Bit of a breeze today. Decided to go ahead and paint all the surfaces on the two plates....not too worried about leaving the plates out there, we have security.. 1/2 of the "team".. And the other half. need to wire wheel all the rusty parts, and give them a coat of Black paint. Bolts will get shined up.. IF I can see them... Some of these parts are already done......some will need a shot of black paint. Bright parts will stay "bright". Might take a day or three...stay tuned ( the quote at the start of this page? Comes from the "Two Towers")
  7. A long time ago, I did this project for a retail customer. Long story short, they gave up this vendor and needed to move the pieces left in stock. Consumer wanted this look, that wasn't one of the options left in inventory.. Applied a couple of coats of white lacquer, then burnt umber glaze, then clear lacquer. I was as glad to be rid of this mfr as the retailer was. Not my tastes, but "whatever." Before During After. White spots across natural stained top are "dusty wax," another of their specialties that caused all sorts of problems. My wife always said it looked like "Insufficient housecleaning," which I guess was the intent. Dusty wax On Off And another job, same mfr, customer wanted the painted highlights on the front of this armoire, what was originally all stained.
  8. RedMagnolia.JPG

    From the album Hollow Forms

    This Spalted Magnolia hollow form is turned from wood from the old Federal Courthouse in Jackson,MS. The tree was cut down by a subcontractor who was not supposed to do that. I asked my DIL what her favorite color was and got pink as the answer. So I did a light red, then use acrylic paint on the rim for a "crowning " touch.
  9. I did use some paint

    I am making another ornament. Gerald asked if I used paint on one I had made. I told him that I never use paint. Then I thought, why not? I could look good if used properly. So I used some paint to make stripes. I got the finish on and promptly dropped it on the floor. AHHHHHHHHHH! that is why you don't see a picture. I'm going to look at it tomorrow and see what I can do. I darn sure don't want to redo it.
  10. A Before and After

    Well, a part of the haul that came home with the tool box, was a little eggbeater drill... Lovely, ain't it? Well, after cleaning all the other items inside that box, and putting them away, I could finally start on a rehab of this eggbeater drill....drum roll, if you please.. Look any better? Name that was stamped into the handle? Granlt Tool Comp. New York Germany Not sure who actually made the drill. The cap on the handle was glued in place long ago. Handle just threads onto the end of the frame. Three jaw chuck. Drill has a single gear. Frame is shaped like a milk bottle? I re-painted the frame a Rustoleum black, and the spokes of the drive gear a red colour. All moving parts were oiled up. The wood parts were wiped off, and then a coat of 3in1oil added. Most of the clean up was by a wire wheel. Set a Millers Falls No. 2-01 beside this little drill.. Mutt & Jeff? The little guy was never drilled or tapped for a side handle.. I suppose one could drill and tap a small hole, to mount a side handle, IF they wanted one. I don't really think this one needs it. Drill was $3, at s yard sale...the only old tool she had. Might make some use out of it....
  11. This Tip Works

    A lady at our church asked me to paint four shutters for her. Mush to my dismay, the paint she gave me was water based latex. I recently read a finishing article that said to thin latex with windshield washer fluid. I cut the latex at 10% and sprayed it with a drop feed sprayer at about 45 PSI. It worked but better than I could imagine. The alcohol in the washer fluid sped the drying process and the finish was quite smooth. Who'd a thunk it?
  12. Just got out of Rehab

    Well, had that $1 mitrebox, very rusty and neglected That big old bolt had to go. Found a couple thumbscrews. Tossed the old pine deck. Strip off all the rustiness. Wire wheeled things clean and shiny. Added a few layers of Rustoleum Black from a rattle can. After that had dried, added some red paint. Came from a Duplicolour Red used for scratch repairs....took the assembled thing outside, to bask in the sun for awhile... The backsaw I already had on hand, just needed a home for it, right? Note the red numbers? Well, there are a few more.. While cleaning this thing up, noted that this area was also red. Merely restored the letters. Plywood deck will just have to do.... Even shined up the saw guides. And, since all the rust had been cleaned off, the swivel is even wobble free. Not too bad...for a dollar bill? Stanley No.150 mitrebox, with saw.
  13. Refurbbing a Sargent S416 Jack plane

    Not sure IF this is woodworking related, but here goes. From the Meet & Greet in the Dungeon Shop, three planes were traded for three others. I get a few "woodies" to work on A-yup. Since the one in the middle already had it's iron resharpened in a class at the show, decided to refurb the rest of it. Wire wheels in the drill press to clean the dirt and rust off, trying the get back to bare metal. Had a small jar of Dupli-colour Black, the kind you brush on to stone chips in a car's paint job. Painted the Sargent Lever cap, and set it aside And, you can see what else needed some work. Got the rest of the parts taken apart, adjuster wheel was part brass, and part steel. The frog bolt....yes just one, seems the other was awol. More on that in a bit. The screws, and other metal parts were wire wheeled clean. The frame was sanded to remove a lot of rust, and feather out what remained of the japanning. Grabbed the paunt, again Paint was on the thick side. Well, maybe I could go out to Lowes ( not a single hardware store in this town) and try to replace the missing frog bolt? Nope, Lowes did NOT have that size of bolt. Their wood screws were also all Phillips headed, too. Well, decided to add a bit of WOW factor to this plane refurb. Picked up some BRASS screws, and a couple Brass slotted head bolts. They head a rounded to. The closest size was 1/4" x 20...got back to the shop, dug up a tap wrench, and a 1/4" x 20 tap. A drop of 3in1 oil, and spun a few new threads. Still let the paint dry just a bit longer, a wee bit tacky. Wire wheel and a LIGHT touch removed the grime/old finish from the handles. Now was the time to put this back together. Two wood screws through the frame into the sanded down base. Then a LONG woodscrew through the knob. Brass bolts to attach the frog. So far all connectors are brass. The brass wheel and a Steel bolt were added to the frog, with a drop of oil on their threads. Rear handle and it bolt was next. While attaching the frog in pace, I used an old iron to get the frog and the wooden bed coplanar. Set up a test track, again Not too bad, for a Jack plane. While I was down there today, I sharpened up the iron on a Ohio Tool Co. jack plane. Same width iron, but a BIG wood body. Cleaned the wedge, chipbreaker was cleaned, and nated tothe iron. Iron was nice and sharp, all rust removed. Test track was still sitting there, so... Still need to refinish the wood on it, but, it do work like it should. Two down, one to go.

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