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Found 20 results

  1. I used a glaze made by Star Chemical Co. Raw Sienna thinned down turned out to be real close.. This was what I thought I was best at of all the wood working and related chores associated with wood....matching shades of old furniture people brought in to match...
  2. Having our first snow of the season. A little Alberta Clipper. It will probably be enough to make the grass white. We have another day or so to finish up The Patriot Woodworker Raffle for our Gold Star Family. If you haven't bought a ticket, there is still time! Also, again, a reminder that tagging your posts really helps visitors/members locate information for which they search. Tags are easy to do and only takes an extra second to complete. @Ron Altier posted a great question this week about using shavings as a method of finishing a turning. Check out the post and the ensuing discussion- Ron also posted a new Christmas ornament. It's a real beauty- The latest issue of Woodturning OnLine has lots of great information. They are featuring a project from Carl Jacobson which is very timely as winter begins in earnest. Carl makes a turned , rustic bird feeder. Great idea for our little feather friends- not so much for those pesky squirrels. There is also a PDF tutorial from Colin Spencer on turning a "pentagon" bowl. It can be seen at- https://www.woodturningonline.com/assets/turning_projects/Pentagon bowl instructions.pdf Check out the entire issue at- http://www.woodturningonline.com/index.php Rick Turns has posted his list of turning videos for the month of November. Rick has developed, undoubtedly, the most extensive listing of turning videos on YouTube. I'm not sure but I believe Tim Yoder has been sipping the spiked eggnog- Safe turning
  3. Using wood waste to shine

    I was watching a video of a guy turning a pepper mill and he was sanding the turned piece. Then he did something I've never seen before. He grabbed some of his wood waste shavings and held it against his turning piece. He had already sanded it down to a very fine finish. I can't see this as being any more effective than very fine sandpaper or 0000 steel wool. I will try it................Do you use this technique?
  4. Spraying shellac?

    When spraying Bullseye shellac with a HVLP, should I thin it? If so, how much? Using DNA.
  5. Finishing

    This image is licensed to this community for re-use within our community graphics.

    © The Patriot Woodworker

  6. Cherry Finish

    Anyone have any advice on finishing Cherry? I haven't worked with it before and I am making a flag case for some friends. Picture of the raw wood attached.
  7. TGIF Cold weather finishing As fall progresses, shops get colder and we need to understand what finishes we can use in cooler shops. Let’s remember, finishes cure in one of three ways Evaporative (Spaghetti*) – these finishes cure by evaporation of their solvent. And when dry, they can re-dissolve in the same solvent. Examples: Shellac, Lacquer, Wax Reactive (Tinkertoys*). These finishes cure in two steps. First the thinner evaporates, known as “Flashing off.” Then the finish molecules form long chains by the chemical reaction with oxygen, known as “polymerization. Examples: Varnish of all types, drying oils such as linseed and tung Coalescing (Soccer balls*) These finishes also cure in two steps. First the thinner evaporates, then the larger molecules of finish, softened by the solvent, get close and bond to each other as the solvent evaporates. Example: Water-borne finishes, where water is the thinner and glycol ethers are the softening solvents. Flexner uses these analogies* to explain the differences Before looking at each of these, a basic chemical principle is that heat effects chemical reactions. The general rule for most reactions is that every increase of 10C or 18F degrees doubles the rate of reaction. Thus every reduction of 10C/18F doubles the length of reaction. Another thing to remember is that reactive and coalescing finishes can take several weeks to fully cure – long after they are dry to the touch. So what about finishing in a cold shop: Evaporative finishes – these will cure, though at a slower rate because the evaporation may be slower. Air movement will help. Reactive finishes – these will also cure, but also at a slower rate. Again, providing fresh air (i.e., oxygen)will assist in getting the reaction to occur. Just give it more time. If you need to thin, turpentine, a slower flashing off thinner, may help to getting it to flow out and level a little better. Coalescing finishes – these are the exception. They don’t cure well at lower temperatures, typically 65F. May vary by brand, but should not be your first choice in cool shops. Of course, one option is to finish the item in your shop and move into a spare room in the house (with SWMBO’s approval) to keep the curing on track.
  8. Scroll Saw Table Refinishing

    I have had my Excaliber 21 for some time now and LOVE it. I love it so much that I have worn the "paint" right off the top near the blade opening. Now, the color of the bale matches the color of the blades. Makes it really tough to see the blade entry. I have tried paper, zero-clearance 1/4" plywood, coloring the blade with no results. OH, most learned members, how can I fix this problem. Short of taking it somewhere to have it ground down, polished and poder coated, does anyone have a real solution? Will be most anxiously awaiting your responses. fred
  9. Announcement On behalf of our entire staff we are pleased to announce @kmealy (Keith Mealy) as our new "Finishing, Tips and Tricks" Forum Host. Introduction Keith has a vast background in woodworking and finishing. He has been with us for several months now and he has proven to be a great asset and mentor to the rest of us who need that little push in the right direction in the realm of finishing. Keith is the past president of the Cincinnati Woodworkers Club and he is currently a finishing instructor for his local Woodcraft store. Keith also comes from a hosting background where he dispensed his knowledge at the ever so popular WOOD forums. "His wide range of woodworking skills make him an excellent instructor and his organization always leads to a successful class. Currently he is teaching Finishing Basics and Coloring Wood. Obviously, Keith can (nearly) do it all, and his classes are always popular." Source: Woodcraft on Keith Mealy We are fortunate to have Keith and his expertise here with us. Keith's duties will be to assist anyone who enters his forum for finishing advice, finishing suggestions, or just to show off that finishing project, or at times even, he'll be here for us as we show off our finishing disasters. Either way I am sure he'll have the guidance you need to help create that perfect finished project. So, please join us in welcoming Keith Mealy to our community as your new Finishing,Tips and Tricks Forum Host. Thank you
  10. Auger Bit Box Project: PIP?

    Getting down to the "finish" line......The front of the box's lid...needed a roundover done, to blend in that "bad" corner.. Might as well use this. Didn't round over the back edge..hinges were in the way.....FINALLY found some 100 grit sandpaper, so I gave everything, inside and out, a good sanding down... ...Got down the "Honey Jar" and an old brush. Worked my way from the inside of the bottom page all the way to the top of the lid... Just might be enough hinges? IF the latches arrive, there may be that many on the front of the box.. 1st coat of that SMELLY BLO/Varnish mix has been brushed on...inside and out. Will let it cure out today, then rub it out. Might get another coat or two? Then add the latches, when they get here?
  11. Ask HLM

    From the WOOD Magazine Finishing & Refinishing Forum host Steve Mickley
  12. I originally posted this list, from the class I teach, on the WOOD forum. Thought you might find it interesting. I had a friend from the woodworking club come over this afternoon to have me help him color match a new to an old piece. He had tried a variety of dyes and mixture of dyes without success. A quick wipe with burnt umber glaze got him real close. When you pick any finish, you select an attribute or two you want and you get all the other attributes that come along with that choice. There is no finish that's perfect for every need. * Color or lack thereof * Resistance to abrasion, UV, water, other chemicals, heat * Ability to apply with your skill level -- spray, brush, or wipe * Ability to apply in your in your environment -- fumes, dustiness, temperature, humidity * Time to complete finishing -- number of coats, time for each coat to apply and dry, and time between coats * Repairability * Gloss level * Film thickness * Hardness * Chatoyance * Cost * Availability * Compatibility with existing finish, if any Don’t let anyone describe a color to you using words alone. Just what exactly does Golden Oak, Medium Walnut, or kinda reddish, but not too dark mean? When you are using a new product or technique always do trials / samples Steps in the process Step board Alternate options Which works better? Scrap is cheaper and easier than starting over. Most finishing errors can be un-done with stripping Wood coloring is like onions, in two ways. Shrek Shrek : Ogres are like onions Donkey: They stink? Shreck: Yes. NO! Donkey: They make you cry? Shrek: NO! Donkey: Oh, you leave’em out in the sun, they get all brown, start sproutin’ little white hairs? Shrek: NO. Layers. Onions have layers. Ogers haveLayers. You get it? We both have layers [sighs] Donkey: On, you both have layers. Oh. You know, not everybody like onions. Making soup It’s a lot easier to add more onions than it is to remove too much onion. Be wary of any advice from someone wearing an apron in the paint department * Enough said. They may know paint but that doesn't mean they know wood finishing. Coloring wood is more like Sailing a boat than shooting a rifle * Tiny steps with adjustments along the way. Base stains (pigment and/or dye) get you to the right church, glazes and toners get you to the right pew
  13. Hey folks! Does anyone have any advice to lend to me on using water soluble dyes? I am giving this a shot this weekend to try and color match an add-on to a media cabinet that is almost a dark antique cherry. I am building this for a group that my wife is involved with so this is more of a honey-do project than anything. I made the mistake of choosing maple because it was cheaper than cherry but now know the difficulties of finishing maple. I have a couple J.E. Moser dyes (cherry rosewood and cherry Amber maple) being expedited right now because I need to get this done by Sunday. What do you prefer as a finish over a dye? i am definitely a novice on the subject of finishing. I have been researching this a lot the past couple of days and certainly know much more than I did but would love to hear from you guys on this.
  14. Gaps filled and sanded, Witch's Brew brushed on Racing stripe showed up AFTER the finish went on...figures Back is a bit plain looking... Top was a glue upof two boards. Tried to match the grain... Been trying to match the old box, I think I might be close? Needs a rub out tomorrow, then a top coat. All this work, just to store a Stanley No.45.... All there, even the 22 cutters I got with it. Missing the two match cutters, and a depth stop for the slitter, is about all.
  15. Awards Drying

    From the album Awards for Veterans

    The awards are in the drying lineup.
  16. Shaker Table: almost finished!

    Well (yawn..) after a good night's sleep, might try to write up this story. Took about three hours of shop time last night, hope it don't take that long to write it up ( or read) Flipped the drawer assembly over last night. Had a high spot to plane away. Then marked each part as "bottom". That way, I can avoid the next step being in the wrong place.....kind of hard to Dutchman a groove. Had to set up the router table, with a fence. Plough plane is still in exile, so a 1/4" straight cutting bit will do the job. Ran some scrap across it to check the settings Found an issue with the large gap in the fence, will work around that. Ran the grooves for the drawer bottom in each piece, and set the parts back together. Needed to size the back of the drawer. Crosscut for length, ripped to the right height to allow the bottom to go past. Was going to do a dado for the back to be housed in, but, breakouts were occurring. heck with it, make it a rebate instead. Cleaned the mess up with a chisel and a blockplane, and had a test fit Now, used to be, I had issues with drawer grooves not lining up. This time around.. I got lucky. Now, this drawer needed a back. Did not have any 1/4" plywood in the entire house! I did have a piece of 1/2" stuff that was about the right width. Crosscut for the other direction. Hmmm have 1/4" grooves, but 1/2" thick plywood....time for the #78 rebate plane, again. Laid out the plywood on the bench, clamped down so it won't move. The 78 will do plywood, just takes a bit more OOMPH behind the plane. Checked the rebate in a groove For a snug fit. Bottom of the side is flush with the drawer bottom. Shakers used a solid wood bottom, also 1/2" thick. Then they beveled the edges to fit in the grooved sides. Time to put the drawer together, with screws, and glue. With a couple clamps to hold the dovetailed corners tight. A look at the underside Guess I got the correct side of the plywood...up. Ok, time to brew up some Witch's Brew! 1 part Golden Pecan stain, 1 part dark Walnut stain, 2 parts Smelly BLO. Brushed on like is was paint, let sit for a bit, and wipe down. First coat is on, including the drawer front And you know what? Faith and Begorrah, the drawer works as designed! Opened way out, and still does not tip down! Might head down and add a second coat later today. Might even write down the sizes of this little table. Remember, this started out as just "whitewood" from Lowes, about $23 worth. Cheap table?
  17. From the album Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Several Applications Of Mineral Oil1
  18. Several Applications Of Mineral Oil

    From the album Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Several Applications Of Mineral Oil
  19. The bathroom make over continues. Mimi picked out the lights she wanted- after I had finished the painting. She picked 2 lights, unfortunately there is only one mounting box/access. I really didn't want to have to cut into the freshly painted wall and mount a retro box, so we settled on an escutcheon plate style mounting piece. Kiln dried Red Oak. Acclimated to shop for approximately 2 weeks. Planed to 3/4". Oil based stain- Varathane- dried for 3 hours. One coat of Minwax gloss poly- dried for 12 hours. Sanded lightly with 220 grit. This is the second application of the same gloss poly. Tiny bubbles and they are not in the wine!! It is fairly warm today- about 80°- and the bubbles formed at the "open" grain ends. I guess there was enough air expansion to create this effect. I'll wait until it is completely dry and see what I can do.
  20. Steel wool

    I've been told NOT to use steel wool on projects to achieve fine surfaces. It will rust causing unwanted lines or blotches. However I have used 0000 steel wool on my lathe projects for years and never once seen any kind of problem. What is the story?

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