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Found 34 results

  1. My son bought a house and the wood accents (stair rail, upper rail, riser rail in kitchen ) are finished in Cabots Mahogany Flame on mahogany wood. Looks great but My question is that I can only find one that says it is outdoor. Is there another or does it matter?
  2. I tried to search this here, and maybe (probably) missed it. Can water based poly be wiped on? I've got to move my armoire project into the house (temps got too low to continue working in the garage) so I want to keep smell and cure time down. Thanks in advance. Paul
  3. Crotch finish

    Turned this bradford pear crotch a couple months ago and just got started on second turn. Just wondering opinion on best finish to display grain .
  4. You have an old piece of furniture (or gotten one). You might be able to restore the finish by applying more of same (after a cleaning) As a general rule, shellac was a common finish up to WWI. Lacquer started to take over and by WWII is the most likely factory-finish. Starting in the 1960s, polyurethane became a common choice for Joe Garage. All this time, varnishes of various sorts were used, but were uncommon for factory finishes. They simply cure too slowly and are difficult to repair for transit or showroom damage. Around 2000, a few conversion finishes started to be used by factories. These are very tough and don't respond well to top coating, touch up, or stripping. Durability and repairability are opposite sides of the coin. Oil or oil-varnish blend pieces are renewed by adding more of same. These finishes are generally not "film forming" also known as "in the wood" and identifiable by observation. Because of the nature of the solvents on the finish, the order of testing is important. Alcohol Apply a few drops of denatured alcohol to an obscure place. Wait a bit, then touch the spot with a finger-tip, soft-bristle brush or a cloth. Shellac will l soften and turn a bit sticky. If it doesn't, it's not shellac. Really old lacquer may also soften just a bit with alcohol. Lacquer thinner Next, try lacquer thinner, and repeat the first step by applying a few drops of it to a new spot on the surface. If after a couple of seconds the finish softens a lot or becomes runny, you have lacquer. But if the finish only becomes tacky and you know that it was built in the last decade the finish could be water-based. Zylene (Xylol) Try touching a bit of xylene to a different part of the finish. If the test area gets gummy, it's a water-based finish. If none of these solvents dissolves the old finish it is a reactive finish that cures via chemical reaction, such as a varnish. You can apply more shellac and lacquer over themselves. Or you can clean up a bit by padding with some of their respective solvent. Not too much or you'll strip down to wood. This is the essence of the "finish refinishers" See ATM strippers under http://thepatriotwoodworker.com/topic/20769-tgif-stripping-old-finishes-tuesday-sept-19-2017/ You must thoroughly clean and dull (scuff up) film finishes before you can apply another coat of the same finish. You especially need to remove dirt and wax for good adhesion. See http://thepatriotwoodworker.com/topic/20685-tgif-saving-a-finish-tuesday-sept-5-2017/
  5. We have covered six different finish types. How do you know which to use, when? As I've probably said before, you don't need the same finish for a clock, a dining table, a breadboard, and a pickled white cabinet. The answer won't be the same for you in your garage as your buddy with his spray booth and nice exhaust (or vice-versa). If you live in an area with VOC restrictions or have a limited source of supply, or limited space to apply a finish, that may limit your available options. Many people, frustrated with getting a finish to work, find one and use it for everything. My Finishing Rule #2 When you pick any finish, you select an attribute or two you want and you get all the other attributes that come along with that choice. There is no finish that's perfect for every need. Color or lack thereof Resistance to abrasion, UV, water, other chemicals, heat Ability to apply with your skill level -- spray, brush, or wipe Ability to apply in your in your environment -- fumes, dustiness, temperature, humidity Time to complete finishing -- number of coats, time for each coat to apply and dry, and time between coats Repairability Gloss level Film thickness Hardness Chatoyance Cost Availability Compatibility with existing finish, if any There is really no right answer, as long as the answer is not “use the same finish for everything.” Unless you are making the same thing over and over. Rather than paraphrasing the experts, I’ll just link to their comments. Additional reading: http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/choosing-a-finish/ http://www.popularwoodworking.com/jun13/flexner-on-finishing-how-to-choose-a-finish
  6. Painting Poplar

    Folks, I have some nice poplar boards, and I am going to make another vanity with the boards, for another bathroom in our home. The entire vanity will be poplar, the outside will be painted a cream white or off white, and the inside will be varnished. The poplar I have has those wonderful dark green and dark streaks, I have heard that poplar colors will bleed through most paints, what can I do to prevent the bleed through, or is what I have heard and read a myth? Thanks!
  7. New Lebanon Shaker Rocker

    From the album Shaker Furniture

    This morning I put the final coat of General Finishes Gel Topcoat on our chair, it should be ready to weave the seat tomorrow, I hope!
  8. Is there a way

    Is there a way to grip finished pieces in the chuck with minimal damage? I want to center and redrill an eight inch hole in a small piece. It is bamboo and I'm thinking that it will splinter out. Never drilled that stuff.
  9. OK, guys. I need some advice. I am in the process of building a replacement mailbox post out of cedar for my mother. What do you fellas recommend as a preservative? I don't want it to age naturally and "Gray" down. However, I understand that stains can be problematic and require periodic renewal. In reality, when my 96 year old mother goes, so do I. The chances of me having to restain the post are slim. As my father used to say, "let the next guy worry about it". In the meantime, I'm looking for a product that goes on easily, does a good job of weather protection and will look nice.
  10. WIP: Completed!

    Ok, that shop dresser. It began by needing something better than this...an old dryer, piled high with ...stuff. Finally got to the point that this To where all I needed was to add the finish to the last drawer.. Even the top looks good ( better than an old dryer..) The box holds my Stanley No. 45. Details? Yes, there are a few gaps...this IS a basement, after all, this spring those gaps may go away. Dovetailed rails...the top one is a half dovetail.. Need to drag the old dryer out, and start loading the new dresser up. Been fun... And, it will look better than this..mess. Maybe? )
  11. Finish?

    Hi! I am going to refinish a child's rocking chair for my granddaughter, but I'm not real experienced with this stuff, so I'm needing to ask a couple questions. What type of top coating finish is usually used on children's furniture? Here are a couple pics of the rocker i have. Can anyone tell what the finish might be, so I know what kind of stripping agent to use. Could it be laquer or varnish? Thanks for any help y'all can give me! Teri
  12. Ok, I know the finishing gurus hate off the shelf "stuff". Mixing and matching is a great skill, and building your own wipe on is a wonderful way to create just the right formula and save money too. But, for some of us, off the shelf is the way to go. So I'd like to ask you all, What is our favorite Off-the-Shelf brand of clear coat finish, it can be wipe on, brush on, spray on, whatever floats your boat. And, if you got the time, please go into detail why you like it. And what do you use the finish for, what type of projects, each finish has it's purpose, what is yours? And, what the heck, while we are at it, what's your least favorite finish, and if you have the time, why? We can include mail order finishes too. Thanks for any feedback.
  13. Walnut Night Stand, PIP

    Second coat is about done. Will need a third.... Second coat was just plain,old Semi-gloss varnish This is the fancy side of the post.. And the "plain" side. Two spots are filler May take a Sharpie to them to blend them away... Almost done, will get the third coat on later. The table in the background? ( left side of pictures) is out of Barn wood Sycamore 13" wide top was a single plank. And, I had to trim some of it off to get it that narrow...
  14. Cherry Box Project, almost done

    Have the second coat about cured out. Brought the box upstairs, maybe find some better lighting.....kitchen wasn't all that great, light wise A few holes to fill, need to rub out the finish a bit.. May wind up giving the box to the wife's Pastor, as he likes these kind of things.. Not the best hinges around, but they were what was on hand... Bench filled right back up... The one on top is 4' long. This is the second of the $1 Cherry slabs. It was over 7' long, way too big for MY shop to handle. I set the box on the stack, just for "scale" Box is just over 12" wide, by 5-1/2" tall.....looks like I have some more to resaw....
  15. A couple more ornaments

    I am still experimenting with different finishes and paints. The results are not good about 50% of the time. I remember the good 50% and mark up the other 50% as lesson learned. Each of these had several finish experiments flop before I arrived at something I liked. It is discouraging to get a great idea that flops, but thats life. The gold and silver hardware are ear ring parts from Hobby Lobby. They beat everyone else out for variety and amount of things stocked.
  16. Another unique finish

    I'm still experimenting with ornament finishes. I got an idea and applied it to this one. Not once, but several times. Learning from each application.The first finish has to be right, the second application has to be the right density and the lathe speed is critical. I think it came out looking good. Now I am going to advance that idea some on the next one. What do you think Lew?
  17. New ornament finishing process

    I made an ornament that was so plain Jane that I thought about tossing it. Then I thought about using it to test some ideas I have been thinking about for a while. It came out so good............I'm going to do some more experimenting. I like it a lot. This can ONLY be done on the lathe, that is why I didn't enter it in the finishing forum.
  18. And waiting on a rain-free day around here. That way, I can apply the coat of Witch's Brew to this thing... Test Ride is complete.....Rocker has too much lean back, creaks a bit. Compfy to sit it, though. Maybe get better results if and when I ever do a second one of these....
  19. PIP:Another box is done

    I think I can call this one done? Was going to throw out the old case for a Wallie World Dremel wannabe, decided to save the latch, at least. New brass screws to install it. Smallest screws I had, they would have to be phillips. One coat of Poly Gloss is now dry Used the block plane to dress this high spot down a bit. Open sez me? I think this will do for now.....
  20. Paste Wax and Bison Wax

    From the album Awards for Veterans

    I love waxing any project I finish. The wax evens out the tone, and the sheen. I used Liberons Bison for the walnut, and Johnstons for the lighter birch and maple.
  21. before I should be able to buff it? I have had very limited experience with Tung oil and have always wondered when I should be able to buff it. Thanks I like Tung oil on these tops because it does not give a very slippery surface when dried.
  22. Finish is on the table

    The little table of "Leftovers" now has a finish coat on it Under the coat of Poly Gloss is a Witch's Brew Blend. It be a little fellow. That black spot on the dowel? Is a Poplar Knot. Tried to blend the whiteoak legs and the brown Walnut into something close to each other. I think this might just warrant being posted as a Project?
  23. crazy glue

    Has anyone had any experience with crazy glue and soda for a decorative turned piece? I have been thinking about using some for fun. Can you add any coloring to it?
  24. Rolling pin finish

    Lew, I have always used mineral oil on my cutting boards and pins. I saw where one guy was using shellac What are your thoughts on Shellac and other finishes for rolling pins?
  25. Steel wool in water based finish

    I have been hearing about the problems created by using steel wool in water based finishes. Does anyone have a picture of the rust in the finish? I am wondering if I cold purposely do that and create a unique finish. Are there problems with the finish coming off or flaking?

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