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Found 31 results

  1. dovetails.jpg

    From the album A Stepback Cupboard

    I might need a bit more practice, doing these handcut, half blind dovetails....I donot apply any finish to the sides, or the insides, of drawers....tkes to long for the smell to go away...Ash for the front, pine for the sides, poplar for the back. 1/4" plywood for the bottom.
  2. handcut dovetails

    So I am practicing handcut dove tails. I am up to cut 12, still a few minor things im not happy with but my OCD wont be happy till there are no mistakes!! Below is attempt 12 So my issues here were the knife wall for the middle pin was compressed, you could see from the inside. The finish on the proud parts of the joint was rough. I find that when chiselling out the waste my chisel doesn't seem to cut very well on chop cuts. I literally sharpened them before I started the joint as well!! Maybe I am being a bit too aggressive, or could it just be that pine compresses more easily? Hopefully 13 will be my lucky One!!
  3. As some of you know, my sister has made it her life's work to make sure I get to heaven- fat chance! This time, she has me making a tithe box and shelf for her minister's church. I worked with him thru emails and Sketchup drawings to get the approval on the design/materials/hardware. The box is 1/2" thick birch and walnut stock with hand cut dovetails. Top and bottom are mounted in dados. The top is flush with the sides and the bottom is slightly recessed. The shelf is 3/4" birch plywood with shop made walnut edging. The hardware is a half mortised lock and a 110° stopped piano hinge. The minister has someone in the congregation do the finishing. The box is about 14" L x 7" W x 6" H. I did hit the walnut with mineral spirits to see what the grain would look like with finish- Thanks for looking!
  4. Dovetail Project


    Seems like a new/old process. All sorts & $'s of jigs. Some hand cut theres. DIFFERENT BITS. Differences bout ALL OF IT. JUST A SUGGESTION, OK.
  6. Humidor finished

    So I had posted a few weeks back about the humidor I was building. At that time I had assembled the outer case and started the finish. Since then I have lined it with Spanish cedar, built storage trays and conditioned the cedar by wetting it with distilled water a few times.
  7. Neat idea for aligning pieces for hand cut dovetails http://www.finewoodworking.com/2005/10/25/a-simple-trick-for-aligning-pins-and-tails?source=w1722enl&tp=i-H43-BC-12U-4oD44-1o-4vrt-1c-4niDc-bErcg&utm_campaign=fine-woodworking-eletter&utm_source=eletter&utm_medium=eletter&utm_content=fw_eletter&cid=3998&mid=71071968
  8. Side Table

    This is a side table I did based on a shaving stand Norm did on NYW. I used sliding dovetails for the side and bottom and to put the top on . The drawers have my first try at handcut dovetails. The only screws in the piece are in the base to attach it to the drawer box and in the drawer runners. The top had a nice figure in it which I did not see till I applied the shellac. Also my first time to french polish with shellac. The garnet shellac (the only finish) will even out the color of cherry so even the sapwood will not look so bright.
  9. The April/May issue of Woodcraft Magazine has a great article called "Joinery Class". This particular entry is about Half Blind Dovetails. Within the article is a link to a video demonstrating an easy way to layout any dovetails. The best part is that you only have to make TWO measurements! Check out this video-
  10. Shaker Table, front legs

    Well, some dummy decided he just had to work in the Dungeon Shop this afternoon. Moved the base on to the floor, to be easier to mark other parts for sizes. The plan for today was to add the top and bottom drawer rails to the front of the base...Sooo The wider of the two goes in the top of the legs. Needed to cut a single dovetail to attach the top rail to the leg. made some marks, and made some cuts.. then chopped out the waste with a chisel or two then used this to mark on the leg's top where to cut for the socket. Then repeat the above for the other end of the top rail. Supposed to look something like this... Then start to lay out for the bottom rail. It gets a half dovetail joint. I got this side done fairly well. Then, when I went to do the other side... Would you believe I got to the point of chiseling out the waste, before I found out it was on the wrong face of the leg.... #$##@@$! About the way things have been going. Dry fit the whole base together ehhhh, needed to fine tune one spot, to allow the top rail to slip past the side apron the plan is to add a kicker between the top rail and the back apron, to keep the drawer from tipping. Drug out the top, and dropped it on the base, and added the still loose ends Will have to go back and add a filler to cover the ooops, May get a wild hair and actually try to glue this thing up..... Stay tuned, this might get scary....
  11. Easy project gets a bottom

    Well, went and dug out a few other toys this morning. A "better" dovetail saw, for one the one on the right is a Sheffield "Crown" Gents saw. Seemed to cut a might bit better. Should, I don't think it has been used til now. Dug out a narrow mortise chisel, too. Plan was just to saw down to a line, then chop out the waste. Each set of tails seemed to look better than the last set, so there was some progress, at least. Tried the fit out by putting the box together Not too bad? Next, scrounged a plywood bottom for the box. Had some good 3/8 cabinet stuff, but wasn't the right size. Had to use some old 1/2" stuff. Decided to add a rebate around the edges, so a Wards #78 plane was dragged out and set up. Plywood isn't exactly a wood of choice for this, but I think it will do. Didn't even add any glue to this thing, just knocked it together and nailed the bottom on. Figured I would just keep the box down in the shop, as a catch-all for tools on the move Like a set of chisels. I can even set other trays on top, if needed Like my router bit tray. I even found a place to stow all them brace & bit sets Four of them on this side, and the other two are on the far side. Was going to hang them from the overhead joists, but thought it safer for my head to keep them down low. Just taking things easy, an hour here and there at a time. Trying to place things back in their places in the tool chests. Or, somewhere easy to find them....
  12. John Moody and I were talking today about dovetail jigs. We both have the Peachtree version and the discussion got around to replacement bits and it looks like the Amana bit for the Keller system is identical to the Peachtree bit. I heard that Keller's patent ran out and Peachtree copied it. Any input on this? Anyone have a Keller system?
  13. My first go at hand cutting DTs. The drawer material is 3/4 pine from the BORG (2 drawers 24" sq outside on Blummotion heavy duty slides) The project is a pedestal for a front loading washer dryer It's made from  mortised 2-by material. Shelled in with half inch birch. Will be filled and  painted to match the appliances. nothing fancy Rise height 24" or thereabouts  (emphasis on the thereabouts) The wheels in the rear  are swivel type the ones  in the front are Great Lakes Casters that pick the wheel up off the floor when I rotate a little star-wheel in the caster in order to lock them  Three in front three in the back.   I used my hand made DT saws.  Note one is brass backed the other  still has the back that came it from the BORG when it was a sheet rock mud scraper.  I got lazy.  Both are 24 TPI.   Getting the "hang" for the handle was a bit of a trick as I didn't even know about "hang" when I started.  I made the saws mounted handles and  when I started a cut they just stuck solid like they were nailed to the wood.  The handle's angle and location is important.   The project       Some tools     My two DT saws           The first Drawer all glued up with the bottom ( half inch Birch)     Just stop and think about this a moment. All kinds of guys looking at some crappy pine drawer cobbled together with hand tools  the fit is  - well  - - hey it's an effort - and it's some guy's first effort at cutting the joints and some people find this interesting? Really???   REALLY????? Well you may just BE a woodworker  = coz ain't no one else going to find it interestin' ~!!!     I haven't built a moxxon vice so I just used the project to hold the drawer sides.   Marking out the pins or are they tails - - it gets so Konfoozin       Ohh look~!!  they might just fit.           Fitment detail to follow         And the thing is square too              
  14. From the album Old Jail Presentation Boxes

    presentation boxes for old jail pens

    © Lewis Kauffman

  15. From the album Old Jail Presentation Boxes

    presentation boxes for old jail pens

    © Lewis Kauffman

  16. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    In place at a home where the resident loves colonial works, and this piece fit right in.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  17. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    The cabinet in place at its final resting place, with pewter molds in place. You'll see the tails are cut into the side of the cabinet and exposed, I set the tails on the side of the cabinet to lend it downward strength, the mechanics of the joinery will not allow any weight to push down and separate the corners.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  18. English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    Finished and ready for delivery. My go to finishing schedule for most of my flat work is water based dyes for color, followed by a coat of boiled linseed oil, then oil based varnish. I still love the warmth and glow of oil based varnishes, it has a warmth that I love.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  19. English China Plate Cabinet (Rear)

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    In all my work, I always make the unseen areas just as finished as the seen areas, I think it makes it more custom and refined when you can look all over the work, and see a finished side instead of unfinished.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  20. Built Up Crown Molding

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    The crown is built up, by using traditional methods of building crown, just as it was done the old days, they did not have power nor molding knives, so just as they did, we did, by shaping each facet of the crown as an independent piece, then applying them on top of each other.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  21. English China Plate Shelf Before Finish (Front)

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    After the shelf was assembled I shot the customer some progress images, I put a nice Lie Nielsen No.4 Bronze on the second shelf along with a couple of his pewter molds in the cabinet. The joinery used for this project was sliding dovetails for all shelf's to side wall joints, and dovetailed carcass corners.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  22. Photo Submitted by our Customer

    From the album Old English Plate Shelf

    This image was supplied by our customer, he wanted us to capture the feel of this 18th Century English China Shelf. He saw the shelf at auction, the auction was taking place in Europe, but he thoughtfully realized that the cost of the shelf, including shipping to the states, was getting a tad high, so he sought us out as we had done work for him in the past, and thought of us as his builder. And we are glad he did, we had a blast making it. I used the image to scale the shelf, considering his desire to make it 48" wide by 40" tall, I was able to scale it out on grid paper and duplicate much of the details and the proportions.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  23. TPW Team Project Part 2

    Well, I was going to post this last night after we got to our son and daughter in law's new house that they just moved into, but I had to help my son put together the new sofa/bed that Tami and I were going to sleep on. We got done after midnight so I figured that it would have to wait until this morning. In Part 2 of this project of making a Cedar Lined Walnut Blanket Chest for Nori, my first grand daughter that will be born this coming November, John Moody, Ron Dudelston and I were all at John Moody's house to hang out for a few days and we were building this chest together in John Moody's shop. In the first post on this project we got all the lumber milled down and got the panels glued up. So in this post we got all the panels sanded down and cut to final dimensions, cut and dry fit the dovetail joints, cut and fit the plywood bottom, glued up the chest, rough sanded the chest, routed the top, attached the top, and milled the cedar boards that will line the inside of the chest. It took a lot more sanding than we planned on the panels as we got some bowing in the glue ups which cost us extra time over our short weekend together. But we finally got everything down to the right thicknesses and got the dovetails cut. Here are John and Ron as we were working on the dry fit. Those dovetails turned out great! John has the Dovetail Jig from Peachtree Woodworking and it was really easy to do. After getting the birch plywood bottom notched and fitted into the dadoes and making sure that it wall perfectly square, it was time to get it glued up. Taping the inside corners with the Blue Painter's Tape sure was a time/work saver to deal with the squeeze out during the clamping. I can't tell you how many times John told Ron and I during this build "Don't ask me how I know this, but we need to do/not do ___________ or it will mess up the chest." Since he has made quite a few blanket chests his experience and wisdom was great to have. After letting the glue dry overnight, we got up early on Monday morning to get as much done as possible before Ron and I had to head back up north to Indiana. Ron got all the dovetail joints sanded down flush and they all look great! After getting the rough sanding done, we did the measurements and cut and routed the decorative edge on the top and then mounted the top using 3 of the Rockler chest hinges. We had hoped to get more of the chest done, but ran out of time to get the bottom trim and lining the inside with the cedar and do the final sanding. So Ron will do the final sanding and I will head up there later this week and we finish the trim and cedar lining at in his shop. After that I will be taking it to my kid's house and putting a few coats of a wipe on oil/varnish finish before Tami and I head back home to California. I had a great time working with John and Ron on this project. We were all worn out as it was a lot of work to get done over a weekend, but it turned out great. Before we blew off all the dust and carried it out to Ron's van, the last thing was to get John and Ron's signatures on the bottom in permanent ink so Nori will know how much love was put into this chest. Once I get the final finish on I will post some more photos. Here is photo of all of us at the Moody's before Ron, Dorothy, Tami and I headed back to Indiana.
  24. have a pile of auger bits laying around, getting beat up. Got to do something about that. Had a 2x4 of pine. Planed until squared up. laid out a center line between the two knot infested areas. Chucked up the largest bit in to a 10" brace. Turned out to be a might small, but i drilled a hole anyway. Kept changing out for the next size smaller, until a tiny #4 was used. A #4 is 4/16" in diameter. largest was a 20. There was even an expansion bit, not a very good one, but it worked. Yeah, yeah, a bit of a blowout on the big one. Most are as deep as I could get them. Might chase the holes with the Forstner bits, to make pulling then out easier. You see,they sit like this lovely sight, ain't it? anyway, I'm building a tray-like contraption to hold this strange looking thingy A bit of Barn Siding stuff, the 2x4 rack, and a plywood filler. Plan right now is to make the rack pivot like any other Drill Index. Then lay back down into the tray. Might get two pivot pins, might be two hinges. Won't be some fancy-schmanzy dovetailed tray, either. Have a whole series of trays planned. Lots of files and rasps to find a home for, lots of screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches, and other doo-dads. Might even make something to house these clowns, too All Jack planes. 5 #5s in the middle, a 5-1/2 on the left end, a 5-1/4 SW on the right end. Might have enough of these? Then, there are a few drills Two of the three braces, and an eggbeater. Getting a might crowded down here?

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