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Hey guys, this is followup on a previous post. I have these 70 year old window frames in my house that have bad water stains on them from all the years of condensation. I'd like to refinish these but need to get this off first. I tried ocalic acid, vinegar, light sanding. Nothing so far is working so I thought it would be wise to ask the experts. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Paul
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https://www.popularwoodworking.com/finishing/staining-wood-101/?utm_campaign=PWW - NL - Sunday Newsletter&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=277384524&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-9FVpygW9KrrQc9dGF46UDW97IAan5HAcvdgPKs-GyQBxuHhIWymUqFLWq2In6bdCzx_pJt-K9IJXZEk7vCXQzeRpxpDUyPMtszIml_76mv24m-sKE&utm_content=277312178&utm_source=hs_email#
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To stain or not to stain - that is the question. I normally do not like to stain my projets - BUT - there are times that I think staining will enhance a project. Preconditioning the wood seems to be the ticket for an even color look wiwthout blotching. I am wondering what y'all think about it and what you use before applying and rubbing out the stain. This inquiring mind would like to know ! ! !
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Here is a decent comparison of pigment (what he calls "dirt") and dye colorants. I use a slightly different terminology in that anything that colors I call a stain and there are pigmented stains and dye stains. One reason for that is that some of the canned products have both pigment and dye in them. Here is another article on the subject (the "friend" is me). I was doing a finishing class and could not find the chart that I had in one of my books classifying Minwax stains as pigment, dye, or both, and wanted to do a hand-out. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-woodworking-blogs/is-there-pigment-or-dye-in-minwax-stains-does-it-matter/ My most recent Minwax experiment was their (new?) "true black" stain. It appears to be dye-based and comes out really black.
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I have a soft maple table top that I'm thinking about a finish for. While I'm fond of unstained maple, the legs are cherry and the apron is some unknown laminated wood (this was a 'kit' that I bought). So I'm trying to tie it all together. Maple is notorious for blotching with a stain. So last week, I read this article about "put on 3 coats of shellac then wipe on a stain." Normally, I would consider this a glaze, the the article clearly shows a can of Old Masters wood stain. I'm skeptical as normally wood stains need to soak into the fibers. So, following my cardinal finishing rule, "When using a new product or technique, run a trial piece on scrap." So I grab some wood and put on sections of 1, 2, and 3 coats of shellac. Then I wipe on some stain. Not very much coloring. I even try some Old Masters that I happened to have and really all I see are brush strokes (well, I used a cloth, but you see the lines). And I'm worried that the stain will not dry well and just smear with a subsequent coat of finish. So I won't be doing that. On the reverse side, I just applied the two stains to raw wood and sure enough, blotch. Back to the drawing board. Won't be doing this so-called great method.
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Friend asked me to make a Christmas gift for his wife, wants a Lazy Susan like mine but stained. Suggested just using a dark wood like walnut, he wants it to match the table, which is stained. Okay no problem. His table is oak so I pulled some from supply and glued two 7 inch pieces together after I made a tongue and groove joint. Now here is my issue. I cannot turn more than 9 1/2 inches on either lathe. BUT, as @steven newman likes to say, we have ways. Using my circle cutting jig for the bandsaw I made this 13 inches in diameter. Now to smooth it down I set up my Variable speed drill and a jig with a bearing for support. Instant lathe! No need for shaping here just smooth it down and get rid of BS marks. Once done now I need a 1/4 groove for the chain to go in. Both pieces go to router table and get this done. The center and top I can turn so they got glued and turned down. The 1/4 hole through everything is my guide for assembly. Once done I drive a oak dowel in the top and we are good. Be a few days before finish is done. Plenty of time to be done for Christmas. Glue up for stem, had 3 pieces of 3/4 by 2 1/2 inches for stem. dry fit Stain the stem.
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Cutting, shaping, joinery, glue up and assy I can get that. If I mess up I just make another piece. But when all of that is done after maybe 50 hours of work and it is sitting there awaiting finish - I freeze. One mistake here and the entire project can turn into $250 in hard wood and 50 hours into tragedy. Am I mental? This is of course not at all out of the question. Is this typical or is it just me. Spray on - wipe on - brush on. Poly, oil, shellac, varnish, stain, polyshades. Uneven finish, runs, streaks. At times it feels like I am in a zombie movie and all of these issues are out to get me. So, I sit and look at the project in all of its unfinished glory and the more I look at it the more it seems it is looking at me and waiting.
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Hi, I’m back looking for more advice. My nephew is autistic. My SIL (sister-in-law) showed me a picture of an awards shelf from a catalog and asked me if I could make one for Nino (nephew). He is active in the Special Olympics, and has lots of medals to display. Basically simple, maybe a 3 foot long x 3/4x 16 inch back board, with 2 side brackets, and a top shelf across. 24 pegs, staggered for the medals to hang on. I can do this, My question is-I’m thinking of using pine for this, the local Lowes has some really good, no knots, pieces. I have some cherry stain left over from last years mangers I made. Any issues staining pine? Sand it down to 220, glue/assemble, stain?
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Did some color work on Beads of Courage bowls. Wood is pecan and it was almost white so adding color.
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Working on a current project (much interrupted by other work). Finally got the stain on and despite a sample board from a previous can, it came out way too red for my objective. Well, there are ways to adjust the color in flight. Or as I say, use the stain to get the the right church and glazes and toners to get to the right pew. Maybe in this case, it was the church across the street. Using some color theory, the complement of red, and what neutralizes it, is green. In finishing terms the green used is Raw Umber. I ran some samples. And I added a couple of other of my commonly-used color glazes. I mix up my own glazes from my UTC (universal tinting colors -- the same as on the rotary where you get your paint color blended from a base). But you can buy pre-mixed glazes, custom mixed glazes from glaze base, or even gel stains (though you are unlikely to find a gel stain called VanDyke, Warm Brown, or Raw Umber) Shop-blended ones: Store-bought ones I liked the VanDyke the best, and so did the customer (daughter). So off to adjust the color from reddish to more of the brown we're trying to get Need to let the glaze dry for a day (or whenever I can get back to it) and top coat. (to be continued) Some notes: Why I used a glaze instead of a toner (finish with color in it) 1. Glazes are ultimately manipulative. I can wipe off a little more of a little less. They have long open times so I can play with it, even wipe 90%+ off if I want. I can add two glazes on top of each other, while still wet or while dry. Or I can add one glaze, put on a coat of finish to seal it, and if it still needs more work add the same or different color in another round. 2. Toners need to be sprayed, IMO and the little cubby-holes in these units were difficult to get a spray gun in and the cabinet with doors has an unstained interior to make it lighter. 3. I am using a water-borne finish on this (Enduro-Var) so need compatible (water-based) glazes, that are difficult, if not impossible, to find. So I mix my own. 4. Toners tend to even out the color, glazes, on oak, tend to accentuate (highlight) the difference between grain pores and flat areas. More reading: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/friends-finisher-glazes-toners-wax/ I first got introduced to glazes when I worked with a local author (though in a very minor way) when she wrote a book for F+W Publishing. She did amazing stuff with glazes.
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For our house remodel we found the windows are preprimed white over pine. They are still is great condition and no drafts or moisture so replacing them is not in the cards. We are going to be changeing the doors, door trim, base molding and shoe molding to be all stained oak. But the Windows we want to leave white. What do you guys think? I am a little aprehensive. -
For our house remodel we found the windows are preprimed white over pine. They are still is great condition and no drafts or moisture so replacing them is not in the cards. We are going to be changeing the doors, door trim, base molding and shoe molding to be all stained oak. But the Windows we want to leave white. What do you guys think? I am a little aprehensive.
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We have a house new to us and it has painted wood trim (pine) white that does not fit the character of the ranch house. I am replacing that trim with the following. Doors flutes, rosettes, and plinth blocks Windows flutes, rosettes, jamb, sill Baseboards , plain board 4 to 6" tall then quarter round on the floor and cove molding on the top. In your humble opinion should I invest in real wood mouldings (oak stained and dyed to highlight the grain) or MDF painted white. The investiment will be substantial and I need to know which this community would like to go for. IF natural more detail work to get everything tight and looking good. If mdf (cheaper than oak) and white trim can be flubbed with caulk.
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Best to invest in a good hard wood trim or mdf painted white?
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I was looking to do some Christmas ornaments, and wanted a green color. I like dyes, so you can see the wood grain, but couldn't find any to suit. My sister (an artiste at crafting) suggested using acrylic paint and diluting it. Walmart sells about a billion different colors for about a buck each. Dilute the paint with about 25% water, and I got a really effective dye. Opens a whole new world.
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Okay, so I’m building this manger for my brother (the saga is on the woodworking page), it’s being made with 3/8 Baltic Birch, and 3/4 x 1 1/8 Poplar. I’m planning on staining the exterior with Cherry gel stain, and a gel finish. I think the bare interior looks most manger like. Do I want to clear finish the interior for protective/sealing the wood reasons? Or is Baltic Birch stable enough that finishing the exterior, and not the interior, won’t affect the long term health of the manger? Any ideas, comments, tips, most welcome. Thank you Artie
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I went to HD yesterday and found that Minwax stains are no longer sold there. I drove up the street about 1/4 mile to the Pratt Lambert store and all they had was Quart or Gallon sizes. Not much help for my small project. Then went to Lowes, almost across the street, and they did have the smaller Minwax cans on the shelf, but, they had a very limited selection of colors in stock, none that worked for me. Does anyone know where a broader selection of colors might be easily found.
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Three things that affect the finished color of a project 1. The wood. You would not expect the same resulting color if you applied the same products to, say, pine, poplar, walnut, maple, cherry, or white oak. Each wood will impart not only its own natural color, but the grain and porosity of the wood can affect how it absorbs the upper layers. I have applied exactly the same stain to ash and red oak, that look very similar in the rough (ring porous woods) and on red oak it comes out a light brown and on ash, a light yellow. 2. The colorant. The dyes and/or pigments in a stain, glaze or toner will obviously impact the resulting color. And it may interact with the underlying wood. For example, if you add a raw umber color, normally a darkish green to a wood like cherry with a lot of natural red, they will neutralize each other and come up with more of a brown result. If you put raw umber on maple, you are going to see more of that greenish color. 3. The finish. All finishes can add (or omit) color. Waterborne finishes and lacquers called "water-white" add virtually no color. These are great if you don't want added color, for example over a pickled finish. On the other hand, they can look like the finish is washed out. Shellac comes in different grades from super blond, blonde, lemon, orange and garnet. Sometimes they are called light amber, amber, natural, or whatever just to confuse us. Varnishes (oil-based) generally have an amber color. Exactly what depends on the mix of which oil and which resin. Soy-alkyd, linseed-urethane, or tung-phenolic are the common combinations and vary from light to dark amber, respectively. So that is why when you are doing test boards on scrap, you need to use the same wood, the same colorant, and the same finish, all the way to completion. Also, the color you get on day one may not the color 10 years down the road. Woods tend to change color - cherry darkens, walnut lightens, and maple ambers. Dyes and pigments tend to fade in light, dyes usually more so. And if you have a colorant with two or more ingredients, one of them might change faster than the others. So an amber might fade to an orange. On one hand you have the woods going one way and perhaps the colorants going the other, each at their own rate. -
Started on this back in the summer and had it shelved til some other things got done. Son bought a new house in NC and Dil wanted shelves to match stair rail. So we went and found this mahogany 14 foot by20 inch by 2. Had to cut it to get into his suburban. Then I get the"privilege" to bring it home to work on. Took them til last month to decide on shelf brackets . Yes I am making those too. Ordered the stain that was used for existing Cabot mahonany flame in the old oil formula ( read the new is WB and not good). It is labeled outdoor use only, must be a CYOA. So got the stain on today and waiting for decision on clear. The second pic is prototype bracket.
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I am in Asheville , NC and my son wants shelves to match what looks like tigerwood. We know it is stained . Looking at maybe alder or red oak. I am familiar with oak but how dark of a stain will alder take (this looks like mahogany, maybe little lighter). And how easy will it be to get that dark color on it. Have not worked with alder before. Or is it better to just use the oak?
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So - there I was - working on my web site to update the colors available on my Quarter Map frames (and other frames). Lately I have been using Varathane stains. The only reason for using Varathane over MinWax or other staining applications, is that the Varathane dries more quickly than others (in my shop). Going after color charts, I visited both Varathane and MinWax web sites. In reading about the two, I came up with completely opposite methods for applying the stain. At http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/varathane/premium-wood-stains, (Varathane), they say: " For Best Results - Stir thoroughly. On bare wood apply the stain across the grain until the wood is saturated on top. Wipe off the excess after 5-10 minutes." At http://www.minwax.com/woodworking-videos/new-featured/three-step-wood-finishing-process(MinWax) they say to apply the stain with the grain. Personally I have always gone with the grain. How about y'all, do you go WITH or ACROSS the grain when staining. I think we all agree that when wiping off excess we go with the grain.
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From the album: CHESTNUT
HOUSE IN GLEN RIDGE, 150 YEARS OLD -
From the album: Pine Is Fine Custom Cabinets and Furniture
The solid pine end table is done. We stained it Golden Oak and put a coat of satin polyurethane. -
From the album: Pine Is Fine Custom Cabinets and Furniture
Here is the finished product for the Maple and Red Oak Toy Box. The client picked out an Early American stain, to give it that 18th/19th century look. You can also use this as a heirloom blanket chest. -
Awhile back, picked a Scioto works #8 coffin style smooth plane at an antique toy store. Missing a bolt to hold the iron and chipbreaker together. Missing the strike button on the backside. So, Found a tap that was close to the size i needed to make a new thread in the chipbreaker. Turned out to be a 10-1.5 Metric plug tap. Ok, we have the matching bolts at work. Brought one home that I found on the floor. It came out of the shelving system they use. Takes a 6mm allen wrench to loosen. Ground the head down a bit, to almost flat. And still leave a bit for the wrench to grab into. Shorten the threaded part a bunch. had to clear the wedge. Sharpened the iron back up, adjust the chip-breaker for a better fit. Beltsander and sandpaper on a tile to sharpen the iron. A look at the back side Soaked the wood body in a BLO/ Varnish/ Walnut stain mix.....about ten coats. Wood was VERY dried out. Markings on the iron are from Ohio Tool Co. Thistle Brand Made in USA Took a handplane to the sole for a tune up. nise was worn quite a bit. Got the sole nice and flat, and gave it a coat Yep, there is a crack in the heel. Right where the missing strike button USED to be. Guess that is why it is AWOL. Decided to make something to take it's place. Didn't like the idea of a carriage bolt stuck up in there. Didn't have a big enough bolt, so, a washer of sorts was made, and a smaller bolt added. Filled the hole with glue, and tapped the parts in place Almost like a Lincoln's spare tire..... Got everything back together for a test drive The shaving is the full width of the pine scrap I was using. Had it set a bit deep, though. Not too bad for a $5 plane
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