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I inherited my father's woodworking equipment when he passed in 2014. One of the most cherished pieces was his Craftsman RAS. This was his only saw. He never had a table saw. He did rip cuts, bevels, miters and all with it. I can remember standing beside it and watching him as he would cut his projects out. I'm 6.1 and my dad was about 5.9ish. When I brought the saw to my shop the first thing I did was the one thing I'd wanted to do for years, that was to raise the saw table to my height. I could not stand to have to bend over to see the blade. He would always say when I'd suggest things that "when it's your saw you can do with it whatever you want.". I removed it from the original stand and built a new taller stand. Since I was in a small workshop I put casters on it to make it mobile. I also added a drawer to hold blades and tools for changing them and recalibration. The table top was still the original 3x2x2 particle board from the mid 80's so the second thing was to replace it. At first I was just going to use a regular piece of plywood but, then my brother was moving and had to get rid of his old dinning room set. I had one of those epiphany moments while toting one of the leafs out the door. It was good solid wood, factory made and finished, smooth sliding surface and the perfect length and width. It was as if all the planets were aligned and everything was right in the world. Now all I had to do was figure out how to attach it so it could be removed easily if need be. My first thought was to have recessed bolts through the top. That was quickly shot down cause I wanted a smooth solid top. After some serious pondering and several failed ideas I finally had the solution. I took the piece of plywood from the original idea and mounted it to the saw. Then I cut some brackets that fit flush so I could slide it off when it needed to be replaced or removed. I attached it to the plywood from the bottom with 1 1/2 inch screws to keep it from sliding front to back. It worked like a charm. He also wanted the shortest fence possible. If it would just catch the wood and hold it he was happy. I like a tall fence so that was another thing that got changed. It had finally emerge into "my saw now". Over the years there has been many a board foot cut on this saw. Every time I use it it makes me think of my dad and that makes me smile.
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Normally, I would just refer to my own thread about parts suppliers over on Woodworking Talk. However, I need parts for a 65 year old saw that hasn't been manufactured for 60 years. I picked up a Yuba Sawsmith RAS (circa 1959-60) last year. I didn't realize it at the time, but it's missing a number of parts that I have to have to make it functional/operational. A lot of things from years ago are no longer available. I have read through the entire thread on the Shopsmith Forum about this machine. If anyone has one of these machines that they are willing to part out OR if you see one of these machines for sale somewhere, please let me know. Any help in finding replacements is greatly appreciated. Please help!!! Here's a list of what I am looking for (Ref. No, Part No., Description): Mandatory - Motor-Carriage Assembly 53 - 4864 - Nut-Spindle, L.H. 87 - 27032 - 1-1/4" Arbor-Saw 13 - 2355 - Washer Needed but not required - Motor-Carriage Assembly 54 - 4868 - Wrench-Arbor 98 - 700040 - Anti-Kickback Assembly Rubber boot that covers the unused side of the arbor shaft Mandatory - Base, Column, Arm and Table 23 - 4694 - Wire-Coiled 24 - 4698 - Wire-Main, with Plug 76 - 700048 - Lock Assembly-With Key (My key is stuck in the on position and won't turn. The key is also partially broken.) Needed but not required - Base, Column, Arm and Table 80 - 700057 - Switch Assembly (I'm missing the plastic "Start" button, but the switch itself works.) I'm also curious if anyone knows whether or not a more recent (or past) SHOPsmith arbor w/ the set screw will work with the old RAS? Thanks for your thoughts and input!
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- radial arm saw
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I found this site a while ago researching a saw set that I ended up selling him and is still identified http://members.acmenet.net/~con12a/
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Most likely you're going to need an Fb account https://www.facebook.com/reel/2605323562960720 Found a YouTube link
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There's nothing quite as pleasing as cutting through-dovetails for a box. Straight forward in execution and satisfying when done.
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I made a glue up of purple Hart & YellowHart about inch & half square. I cut the end into a pyramid on my table saw then turned it on my lathe. I cut it very slowly with a fine blade. Then moved it to lathe for final turning
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One of my Facebook acquaintances is a trucker on the road most of the time, even as a trucker, his love of woodworking does not escape him, when he has some downtime on the road, he works the wood in his sleeper cab. Talk about the love for it! In this image he is making a wooden hand plane, from the sleeper cab of his truck, hat off to ya sir!
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A $2 rusty saw.... Seems to have a bit of Family History to it... 26", 8ppi, 4 steel bolts, Warranted Superior medallion....skew back. Hmmm.... Ok, the back story...it seems my late FIL ran a Hardware Store in DeGraff, OH. late 40s, to the early 70s....Kinnan's Hardware. A few doors to the south on that same block, was Hoke's Variety Store. One fine day, Mr. Hoke decided he needed to buy a handsaw. He walked in to the hardware store...paid $1.50 for a Disston saw, Not wanting to splurge on the top of the line saws, he bought a Keystone Brand, K-2 Speedster saw. Fast forward a couple decades....I stop at a garage sale, being run by Mr. Hoke's Daughter....and buy that very saw for $2......inflation, right? Gave the saw a good cleaning.. Even clocked the steel bolts... Was just barely making out an etch...Found the "Keystone" and what looked like a race car....hard to tell, with the block lettering across it....More research.. I knew it wasn't the K-3 Pacemaker.. Different handle, Etch of 2 fellows jogging in a race ( Pacesetter), different wood.. Both have a skew back blade, both are 8ppi cross cut. Looked it up at the Disstonian Institute...Saw came out about 1935...was made up to 1951 or so...etch showed a racecar...with those block letters "SPEEDSTER" . Sold for $1.50 retail. Decided to give the worn teeth a refresh...got out Mr. Wentworth's No. 1 Saw Vise.. And a saw file or 2... Red handled one seemed to fit the teeth better..took a while, had to move the saw twice... Just following the pattern of the cross cut teeth...Points were merely worn down a touch. Saw plate, on the other hand....needed to be straightened out...seems Mr. Hoke hit a sidewalk a couple times...and added a couple bends out near the toe of the saw... Top of the bench's leg, and a 24 oz Ball Pean hammer.....about 10 minutes of banging out the kinks...plate is now straight. Ready for the test drive.. All that splintered stuff on the end? was from the K-3...cuts a bit too rough, and fast....as for this "new" saw's cut.. Cuts as straight as the operator will allow...but, no drifting in the cut...had to slow down a bit. ...to avoid that vise handle...but.. Ever see a hand saw leave burn marks? Back side of the cut looks a lot better than the one by the K-3. Saw should be ready for the next 70+ years....
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A small cardboard box had this sitting inside.... I stuck the edge guide in place, so as not to loose the dang thing...Logo? Never heard of it....might be before my time? 3 prong plug, though...Price? Yep...$2.00...even came with a blade.. There is a set screw that goes through that hole, another the notch goes up against... So...talk to me about this pointy thing.... Do I turn the guide over, and this becomes a circle cutting jig? Bar that slides in and out of the base, has a scale in inches. Foot plate can be tilted to do 45s? One of 2 old power tools I picked...the other is a WEN No. 930 ( $4.45) Power planer... and... And.. I guess these will fit right in with my SKIL Home Shop 6" circular saw ( all metal,too) Not too bad of a rust hunt?
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Well, I finally got the Laguna bandsaw from the fundraiser in December. It got delivered on Friday, Apr 2. It took me awhile to get it all together and set up properly. At least I hope it is set up properly. I made a cut to check blade drift, and I can't see any drift at all. And that is with the fence locked up square to the table with no adjustments. I am posting a picture of that cut, showing a marked line, and the cut line slightly off from the marked line to see it it wandered at all, and it looks perfect to me. The lighting in the picture of the bandsaw is weird, but that is because I normally have a "corn" light in that room that I purchased from Rockler. That is a very bright light, and it flooded out the picture, so I had to remove it and put in a weaker flood light to get a better picture. So here are the pictures.
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From the album: John Morris's Hand Tools
My beautiful frame saw I acquired a few months ago, I love this tool. It cuts wonderfully. Did I say it's beautiful! The top horizontal bar is turned to tension the blade. -
What is an "Electronic" Radial Saw?
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I know that Radial Arm saws are not in favor these days , but what can I say I cut my teeth on these saws and have my old Craftsman set up for cross cutting. I use it for just that purpose, no angles or ripping. The saw is known for making lots of saw dust and it piles up in the most inconvenient place, behind the saw. I rigged up a dust collection box behind the blade that the blade is buried in when not in use. The dust collector 6" duct is attached to the top of the box, the front of the box is the fence. Then I made a ZC insert for the blade that slides in and out of the table to the front with a dado under where the saw blade cuts that extends back to the DC box. This system works 98% to remove the saw dust, and the ZC is replaceable. Herb
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Worked on this while stuck at home. Two 4 X 8' - 3/4" sheets of plywood glued together. Self adhesive edging around the outside edge, several coats of floor quality polyurethane and on 300 lb. capacity wheels. Exact height for using it as an extension table for my table saw.
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This past Sunday I ordered the Shop Fox Mini Base for my Grizzly G0555 Band Saw. I have had my band saw up on casters for years, and it's always been a tad high. The casters are about 3" tall, so the band saw is kind of a good fit for a 6' tall woodworker at this point, I am only 5'-9". Also when pushing material through the resaw blade, the band saw wants to walk and rock a bit because of the height of the casters, so am hoping the low profile mobile base will stabilize the saw. I should be getting it this Thursday, I'll let ya all know how it feels and works! -
I see more and more of these coming on the market. I have a couple of "Clamp & Guides" and some shop-built guides, but wonder how they're all working. Do any of you have one you like (or dislike). I'm thinking we might use one of these at the furniture bank for cutting out melamine sheet goods. There's one size that's too big for the table saw we have. Repeatability of cuts would be a BIG help as we do about 68 table tops at a session but only 3 different sizes. Would be nice not to have to measure each one (measure once, cut 24 times). Fe$tool is probably out of the question due to cost. But we'd need to get a circular saw to go with one of the guide-only aftermarket versions http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/track-saw-review/ http://www.boratool.com/ https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p424/rip-cuttrade/ https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p425/accu-cut/
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I finally went and done it. My R4512 finally stopped making good cuts so I got a Grizzly. I am SOOOOOOO impressed with this saw. Came with out a scratch on it. Easy to set up (with help). The hardest part was getting it to my shop. It weighs 300 lbs in the box. Got an appliance dolly and a great big friend to help me move it. Made several cuts with it today. If you are thinking about an up grade, this is a really good deal.
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I'm tooling up to do my first resin table and I'd rather not spend the $600 for the Festool track saw I'm seeing in all the videos. Is there a comparable model that performs as well? I definitely won't be a high volume producer. Don't need it to do any specialized functions. Just need it to have settings for cut depths and use a vacuum system.
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I've never seen a saw stop demo in person, but have seen a few videos and I was very impressed. However one question. If you have a saw stop, would you be more inclined NOT to use your guard? I know most guys don't anyway, but using it makes all cutting safer, especially on some of the more risky cuts and kick back risks too. Anyone have an opinion that owns one?
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I have an inherited table saw which came down from my grandpop, to my late father, and now to me. My dad always talked about how he wanted to fix up the old saw. For the last few months I have tried to do my pops proud. I have replaced all the bearing, rebuilt the motor, add a new belt, put the PALs alignment system on it, built a crosscut sled, stiffened and lengthened the rip fence, tonight I finished the out-feed table, and put it on a roll around base. The hanging motor threw me for a loop for a little bit. I wanted an out-feed table that was quickly and easily removed and I figured it out, it's even adjustable. See attached. As fun as I had building it with my dad there in spirit I can no longer put off the wife's honey do list. Please let me know what you think.
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I have been doing some web research on saw lubrication. There are MANY different opinions. First the band saw. Olson recommends a wax like lube in a stick that you press against both sides of the blade. They make the blades and say that it will make you blade last a lot longer because of less heat build up, which causes heat crystallization of the blade and failure. Others I have asked on this site say use nothing. I have used the Olson lube and it did seem to work well and I did notice a noise reduction. I have it beside my saw, but rarely remember use it. Nothing was said about dry Teflon spray. Anyone tried it? Table saw. For lubing gears and all things that move under the table. I read of people using WD40, home made brews of different concoctions, and several sprays. The one that got the best reviews by far was Dupont Teflon dry lube. So I tried it. It did a great job and lasted much longer than anything I've used before. I tried to find if it would also work on the TS blade itself, but could not find any info. I am going to get out an old reserve blade and give it a spin.
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OK, decided the old saw vise needed new lumber....old was too narrow, and too short... With the idea that when this is in the vise, sitting on the rods...a saw's tooth line would be about 4' off the floor....closer to my eyeballs, easier to see. Oiled the moving parts, wiped off the crud.. Note to self: IF you are checking how well them jaws work..don't have a finger in the area...DAMHIKT Logos? Logos?? "NO . 1 " Logos... PAT. APR 8 79.....April 8, 1879...been around, awhile. Set this carefully aside... one of the saws that was sharpened in that vise....20-1/2" long, straight back, 8ppi Panel saw. Wrong bolts...not sure about that handle...seems to be filed "Crosscut" might give it a try.. Scrap from the plank the saw vise was rehabbed with...might be a good test? Lots of sawdust....lumber was left-over treated pine, from the Porch Project... In about the same amount of time it took to type that last sentence....I just might get the hang of sawing by hand? Split the line. All the way around.... Thumb rubbing alongside the saw's plate seems to help..Might just keep that Panel saw around....and save the 10ppi Disston 20" D8 for finer stuff... Have no idea who made the saw used in this test... Not too bad of a saw?
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This is my first shot at "picking". Since I picked these up at the local Restore, it may not qualify as legitimate picking, but you get the idea. The brace was $10.00, and the saw was $5.00. The saw looked pretty good, needing only some cleaning. The website Common Woodworking has a guide on sharpening and setting the teeth, so I may be referring to that if needed. My main concern is with the knob on the brace. It spins freely enough, but seems to be very loose and wobbly. Is this normal, or are there some parts, bearings or such, that I need to be looking at? As for bits, if I start looking at used bits at yard sales, etc., once I get past the obvious defects like broken spurs, points, or bent shafts, what else should I be looking for? Any info would be welcome. Here are the pics of what I scored. The saw is 25 3/4" along the teeth.
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