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difalkner

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Everything posted by difalkner

  1. 5 Walnut plaques

    I actually need to make 20 of these but will do 5 each week until I get them finished. I simply don't have room to store enough lumber, to clamp them all, and to finish them to do all at the same time. The finished size will be 28" x 17" so they're basically like an end table top. They'll get a Roman Ogee edge treatment and finished in clear gloss Nitrocellulose lacquer. There will be channels screwed to the front side so engraved name plates can be interchanged. The good part of that is if there's a slight blemish with a knot hole or crack it won't show so I won't have to spend much time fixing those. The bad thing is that this beautiful Walnut will be mostly covered with plastic name plates. Anyway, this isn't any special technique or job, just gluing up boards and then trimming to size and spraying finish on. But, all 5 are glued up, I'm waiting on my wife to get home, I have supper warming, and there's not a lot I can do right now in the shop so I figured I'd post some photos. Cut to length and width, still in the rough - Surfaced (I really wish I had an 18" or 20" helical head planer! - this takes a while with a lunchbox planer) - Gluing - All 5 glued and drying - Enjoy! David
  2. 5 Walnut plaques

    Thanks, Dave! Yes, posted that a couple of days ago - Found a nugget David
  3. 5 Walnut plaques

    I wasn't satisfied with the photo so I took a couple more and these are closer to what they look like in person. The first one is under natural and fluorescent lighting and the second is incandescent. They are somewhere in between the two but not quite as red as the incandescent shows. David
  4. 5 Walnut plaques

    One coat of sealer, one coat of gloss. I think they look nice. Might do this again sometime and make some end tables - all these need are aprons and legs! The figure isn't that pronounced in real life, I think it's the lighting and camera that accentuate the look. It's there, just not quite so dominant. I'll deliver these tomorrow and then start on the next four or five. Enjoy! David
  5. I bought it new in 1997 and used it off and on for the first 17 years but in the last 3 I have used it a lot, sometimes daily. It has always run fine but today I turned it on and it ran for 1/2 a second then quit. Here's what I know: 1) It is getting power, I even switched to different circuit altogether 2) I pulled the switch out to verify that it is good 3) The brushes, though original, are still 1/2" long and show no signs of chipping or abnormal wear 4) The wires on the brushes are intact and the springs have plenty of tension 5) The motor is easy to spins (took the side covers off to verify) 6) The 18 amp built-in breaker on the top of the motor is in the position it should be in 7) In shining a light onto the commutator I see no chips or bridged arcs between segments I don't really want to spend the money on a new planer and would rather get this one running again. I can order new brushes just to rule that out but again, the current ones look fine to me. Ideas? David
  6. DeWalt 733 planer died today

    Yes sir, blew the dust out yesterday but there wasn't much. I keep it pretty clean. David
  7. DeWalt 733 planer died today

    Not that I have ever seen, Stick. Just the on/off paddle switch. David
  8. 5 Walnut plaques

    These are ready to spray in the morning. This is the back side, front side has a Roman Ogee edge. They need 20 of these and I should have told them I would do 4 at a time instead of 5. I don't have room to spray 5... oh, well - it'll work out. David
  9. DeWalt 733 planer died today

    They're both very free moving so I doubt it's that, Stick. The breaker is far more suspect but much more involved to get to for checking. That's gonna have to wait until later in the week David
  10. DeWalt 733 planer died today

    I called DeWalt and they couldn't help - 38 minutes total on the phone but only about 7 talking to someone, the rest was listening to Mozart. They recommended two service centers in Shreveport, neither are a DeWalt center but they are approved for service. One doesn't work on DeWalt, only Porter Cable. The other suggested I hit the motor with my hand or dead blow hammer to see if a loose wire might be the cause. He said I could bring it to them and they'll check it out at no charge but I'm not so sure I want that sort of 'service'. Maybe they have a knack for hitting things and they start working, I don't know... I took the switch completely out, powered it up with two different circuits, and checked voltage on the leads coming off the switch. I have a full 120 volts coming in and going out. It ran fine yesterday and it's never overheated or gotten jammed. It's in our climate controlled shop so no climate extremes or moisture. This is the position of the breaker switch, looks to me like that's where it's supposed to be. And it doesn't want to move at all other than a slight rocking back and forth but it's always been like that. And it has never tripped. David
  11. Found a nugget!

    When I picked up the lumber for the 5 Walnut plaques (just posted about those) I noticed a 'nugget' on the end of one board. So I cut that off and resawed it today and it's gorgeous! It ended up about 17" x 20" x 1/4" thick in its bookmatched and sanded to 220 form. Now I have to decide what to do with it... I have a few ideas but nothing concrete yet. The boards were very straight except for right at the end on this particular one so I had to be careful resawing it. Opened up to reveal the nugget - Lots of surfacing needed to get them equal and level - Glued - Bookmatched, sanded to 220 grit - More later when I figure out what I want to do with this - David
  12. 5 Walnut plaques

    The guitar tops and backs I'm working with are about 16" across so when it was time to buy a drum sander we got the SuperMax 19-38. That way a back or top that was slightly wider than 16" would have no issues in sanding. Now I'm really glad we did that because the boards are 18" right now (I'll trim them to 17" soon). It definitely uses most of the drum to sand these. Here's one board going through - And the obligatory 'artsy' shot - David
  13. Found a nugget!

    I jointed the edge on the long one - took a while. Btw, this is a board my sawmill guy just gave me because he had no use for it. I like him more and more each time I buy from him! David
  14. 5 Walnut plaques

    For alignment, period. Gluing two joints at a time is a slippery task and it's pretty easy for a board to slide if the clamp isn't just perfect in its placement. Also, if a board has a very slight bow and wants to get out of alignment in the center, where' it's hard to reach, the biscuit keeps it fairly close. In doing this solo without an extra pair of hands it's just easier to use biscuits. And I don't have a planer wide enough to handle the full width of the glued up boards which is about 18" until I trim them to their final size of 17". That means I have to take care of any imperfections with the drum sander and that's a slow task. And my jointer is only a 6" so I can't true up one side on some of these boards and then run through the planer. I have to just use the planer to clean up both sides. All but a couple of these boards were dead straight but a couple had a slight bow or twist. Once they're glued and then surfaced with the drum sander they'll be fine, though. Thanks, Michael. David
  15. Found a nugget!

    I've been setting a few of these aside over the last few months so I dug some out and resawed them tonight. None quite as spectacular but awfully nice, definitely worth the effort to resaw. David
  16. 5 Walnut plaques

    Considered it but I like using lumber. David
  17. Refinishing a Walnut base

    Yes sir, added translucent toner to the lacquer and misted it on. When I reached the desired color I shot clear a couple of coats of clear lacquer. No glaze involved at all. David
  18. I don't do much of this but I was asked to take this Walnut base, made in the 40's and an heirloom from BAFB, and freshen up the finish to make it closer to the original Walnut color. It had faded quite a bit from sun and room light. They asked me to strip it but I refused because of the mess involved and I truly don't want to be doing any stripping. Besides, there was no way I could guarantee the safety of the precious original medallions because they can't be removed. Those that were removable have been added through the years but the original ones were firmly glued in place. We discussed using heat but some of the medallions looked like heat would be detrimental to their already delicate condition. So I masked everything off, dry sanded it with 220, cleaned with Naphtha, and then dusted one light coat of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer. I gave that an hour and then lightly scuffed it with 220 again to make certain it bonded ok. Once I knew that worked then I shot one wet coat of sealer and sanded it again. Then one light coat of gloss lacquer followed by toning with Mohawk Perfect Brown Ultra Penetrating Stain. When the color looked right I followed that with one coat of gloss followed by sanding a few hours later. After that I shot a final wet coat of gloss and let it set overnight. I think it came out nice and they really liked it when they picked it up today. I'll try to get a photo with all the medallions in place before it goes back to Barksdale. Before - Masking off - After - Enjoy! David
  19. Refinishing a Walnut base

    Today I saw the assembled piece with all awards mounted so here's a photo of that (the lighting is a little different than my shop but it still looks nice). David
  20. High precision CNC work

    No paint and no time - had to get to band practice at church.
  21. High precision CNC work

    This little project just cropped up today as we were mounting the final camera on our IP system. Seems I drilled the hole in the wrong place. Because this was hard to get to in the attic I drilled the hole from outside. When I got into the attic and worked my way over to that corner I realized there was a short 2x4 brace preventing me from getting to the hole. So while I was stretched out on my stomach in the attic I had Sandy drill another hole (she's an amazing helper!!). So now I have to fill the first hole. I suggested a Poplar dowel since I had a 1 1/8" and it fit perfectly. Sandy thought it was too long... women don't get it; I could have been finished and the dowel didn't seem like it would fall out. But, I digress. Spent all of five minutes in Fusion 360 drawing a circle and creating a toolpath, then another five minutes to mount a piece of Western Red Cedar to the CNC spoilboard, and about 30 seconds to cut the piece. I beveled the leading edge on the belt sander (meaning this was a handmade item), grabbed the Titebond III, and put the plug in with the grain running in the correct direction (years and years of woodworking help in making those sort of on-the-fly decisions). The CNC was necessary to get this plug to within a thousandth of an inch for this critical application. Here's the project in a nutshell - Ok, yes this is a little tongue in cheek about the 'high precision' and the need for CNC but it was very efficient time wise and turned out better than if I had used the bandsaw to make a plug. And I also see that we need to clean the mildew off and paint - ugh! Now how can I get the CNC to do that for me, I wonder? Enjoy! David
  22. Walnut cutting board

    I'm making a 15" x 15" x 1 3/4" end grain Walnut cutting board for a friend's daughter and inlaying a cross in the top left. The cross will go in with the rough side up and it will protrude about 1/16" so that's why I haven't cleaned it up. You can see my test on the left; the cross has 0.005" clearance and fits very nicely. So the reason for the post is to ask a question - you can see how I've mounted the cutting board, with screws from underneath through the mounting boards and into the holes where the silicone rubber feet will mount and then those boards mounted to the spoilboard. To mount with clamps I would need really long screws so I came up with this method. My question concerns my mounting: is this the way you've mounted things like this before? It can't be an original idea because it's a good one... LOL! The reason I ask is that I showed a couple of CNC folks something else I mounted like this not long ago and both said they've never done this nor have they seen it. I just figured they don't get out much. Not a biggie either way but just curious. David
  23. Walnut cutting board

    Finished this yesterday and it was picked up today for its trip to the Dallas area (a friend is driving over), so I thought I'd post a couple of shots of the finished cutting board. The apple and grapes were great, btw! David
  24. Thought Provoking

    Back in the 80's and early 90's when I had my furniture design and restoration business and would build things for people, I often heard two comments - 1) "This is perfect!" I would tell them it was handmade. 2) "I can see slight differences between the left side and right side." I would tell them it was handmade. In both cases they were satisfied and I must have said that 50 times over the 6 or 7 years I had my business. It may be cool to use a CNC, own a CNC, maybe even cooler that I built my own CNC, but in the end the finished piece needs to meet a certain level of craftsmanship, depending on the item, and as long as that is met the journey from tree to finished project may be interesting to some but is not relevant to most.
  25. Thought Provoking

    As a fairly new CNC owner I disagree with what he's saying. I built our CNC (by hand) and the things I build and create use whatever tool I choose in our arsenal of shop tools. If it makes sense to make a cut on the table saw then I use the table saw. If that same cut makes sense to be done on the CNC then I'll use the CNC. When I deliver a piece I have created the topic of 'which tools did you use' never comes up. If someone wants to know I'll tell them every step. I can do delicate inlay work completely by hand with exotic woods and Abalone but I'd rather use my Dremel on a router base to cut the pockets. I still use a fret saw, by hand, to cut the small pieces to be inlaid, though. Well guess what; I now have a larger and more accurate 'Dremel' and if it makes sense to cut the pockets on the CNC then that's where they'll be cut. As long as the finished product meets my standards then how I got there is inconsequential. The CNC has opened up my creative juices to attempt things I may have wanted to do in the past but either didn't have the right tooling or the means didn't justify the end. Now when I have an idea I evaluate the quickest, safest, and most efficient method to achieve that end result. It might involve a drum sander with digital capabilities and also my 1944 Delta 24" scroll saw but the two eras of woodworking tools fit nicely together in my shop to create the result for the idea I have in mind. Something else I realized in the last couple of days on the CNC is that I now have a very large and accurate planer. I don't have a helical head planer so surfacing an end grain cutting board is out of the question. I can use the drum sander but that takes a while and if the glue up shifted the boards even slightly then working down through each grit from 80 to 220 takes a while. But, I can place the cutting board on the CNC table, make a few passes with a 1.5" surfacing bit, and in mere minutes I have a very flat and well surfaced cutting board. I'm glad I know how to do woodworking completely by hand but I'm also glad I have tools to make the job easier and quicker without sacrificing quality and the freedom to choose whichever method I deem best. My $0.02... David

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