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About difalkner

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  • Birthday 07/18/1953

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  1. I don't have any of the Vectric line of products but I'm wondering if it has the feature like CorelDraw to save as an earlier version. I have CorelDraw X8 (18) and I can save files all the way back to version 11 or any version in between. I regularly save files as X6 for the laser shop so they can open my files. David
  2. Thanks, Guys!! It's been a good one so far; drove about 40 minutes south to the sawmill and picked up about 25' of unsteamed Walnut for projects. I should have gotten a better photo of the sawmill but this was so pleasant I took the photo here from the truck - it's a Wood Mizer and behind the shop (past the picnic table) are his two solar kilns. Walnut for today - David
  3. I actually haven't looked, John. It would be easy to make them available, for sure! David
  4. This is a short video on making an acrylic gauge to guide me in carving the neck on the guitar I'm building. David Here's the finished gauge - And the video -
  5. Looks good, Mike! You're really cranking things out on that new tool - good job! David
  6. Looks good to me, 4D. As a longtime photographer I love BW photos. And the vise is something I can use, so I'll make one soon. Thanks! David
  7. Thanks, Herb! I'm glad you got something worthwhile out of this. David
  8. Thanks, Gerald! They wanted it like a ring with the diamond suspended between 'prongs' and this is as close to that as I could come to that concept. The front of the base will received a brass plate with the recipient's name and pertinent info to the award. David
  9. Point well taken, DAB. I'm not opposed to a guard, just don't have one. David
  10. Good points, DAB. I no longer have the guard, sorry. When I recovered my table saw a few years back the guard was not with it (loaned the saw to a friend, came back rusted, motor dead, and not much better than a boat anchor. I know, I know...). You could use a Forstner bit for the pockets but then you'd have to figure out how to make the bottom of the posts round. Then you'd have to deal with them being oriented correctly and staying that way while you tighten the screws so that the notches line up with the diamond. By keeping them square in section the orientation is easy. David
  11. This little project of 26 Walnut awards used most every tool in the shop but I did my best to be efficient and consistent with the steps so I could make these as identical as possible. Here are the steps outlined in the video below - Enjoy! David
  12. 99% of what I cut is at 18,000 rpm mainly because that's where my VFD is set and I have rarely seen the need to change it. So that's sort of a 'fixed' speed for me although I can go from 6,000 to 24,000 rpm very easily. When I dipped my toe into the CNC waters my feeds were very slow - 1/4" upcut end mill at 50 ipm - and depth of cut very shallow - typically 1/16" with the same bit (that only lasted a week or so before I began speeding things up). Fast forward a few months and now my typical starting point for the same bit is still 18k rpm but feed rate is 150 ipm and depth of cut, depending on material, is 1/8" minimum and sometimes up to 3/16". One time I have cut 1/4" deep and it was just fine. Walnut is what I cut about 90% of the time but I cut Sapele, Maple, and Cherry the same. I've only cut Pine a couple of times and it seems like I pushed my envelope a bit on that - deeper cut, if I recall. I have a water cooled 3kW (4 HP) spindle on a very rigid machine and I've had people tell me I can cut 250 ipm at 1/4" depth of cut in Walnut with no problem, but I can't bring myself to dial it in that fast. One day, maybe. Many of the jobs I cut are short runs of 10 minutes or less so going much faster is only going to save a minute or two so there isn't much incentive to speed things up except for bragging rights. But there's always someone who will push a machine faster and harder so I wouldn't win much on the bragging rights contest. David
  13. Looks like it will be a very strong joint. How did you hold the work pieces when you cut them? David

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