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Everything posted by MEBCWD

  1. Walnut plaque

    The white might be too bright but They had dropped the price so I got a can before it went back up. I also have my eye on some tan and brown but right now they are way too high for experimenting. Maybe the white will work the way I hope and will high light the lettering so it is easier to read when the walnut is dark and the lighting is low.
  2. Walnut plaque

    Love the plaque! I like the way you used the sap wood to make the back and cut panels to bookmatch to face. I bought some white spray ink to use with masking to try out on walnut. Now if I could get caught up and find a little time to play I could do some experimenting.
  3. Dust and Chips

    Important thing in designing a diverter is to make sure you don't restrict the air flow because that is what keeps the router from overheating. You could be designing a bearing killer if you don't make sure there is still plenty of air movement.
  4. Your welcome Mike. I did that one when someone asked how to use the forms.
  5. This is a PDF of a presentation I gave at a local Rockler CNC user group meeting showing how you can draw or create vectors in Vectric VCave V8.5 and Aspire v8.5. This probably works in V9.0 but I have not had a chance to check it out. They say they added the ability to use direct entry for drawing but you could do it before so I'm not sure what enhancements they made to justify the claim. Create Vectors Using Drawing Tool Forms.pdf
  6. The Lord Does-Marine

    Again the perfect wood for the project. Love the plaque Fred.
  7. Veteran.JPG

    Nice plaque. That was the perfect piece of wood for this project.
  8. Bowl

    Great looking bowls! Prayers to you and yours for a speedy recovery. Glad to see you are not letting it get you down and are getting some shop time. Like Grandpadave says woodworking can be therapeutic, hope you get plenty of therapy in your shop.
  9. Splines for miters

    One other thing David didn't mention the grain in the spline should be running the length of the spline and not across.. David did cut the splines correctly, I just wanted to let others know because I have had people want to know why their joint failed when they added a spline to strengthen the joint, their spline had the grain running across instead of along the length.
  10. Splines for miters

    If the blank for the splines is a little thick you can raster the thickness before you cut them out and save time sanding later.
  11. Putting the CNC to work!

    I remember them call Zori when I was growing up, then it changed to flip flops. Never liked having that thong between my toes. Here is the wiki page interesting https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flip-flops
  12. New Spoil Board

    I'm with you 4D that Z bracket should not go below the bottom of the gantry, that makes it really hard to do some jobs that require deep cuts close to shallow cuts like doing decorative face cuts on corbels. You would need to redesign your files to make sure you do not run the bracket into the material and sometimes you might have to split a project up and glue pieces together after machining. That is one of my big concerns with the Probotix machines. It may never be a problem for me if I did get one but I don't want to spend that kind of money and find out I made a mistake and have to start modifying the machine, been there, done that, and now I'm ready for a new one.
  13. New Spoil Board

    I'm like 4D in that my first CNC was a CNC Shark Pro with the white plastic and the MDF bed. Mike I'm not sure if you know it or not but you can set the safe Z height in the software so you will clear your clamps where they clamp your project. Go to the Toolpath tab and click on the Set button for Material Setup. Then go to the bottom of the form where you see Rapid Z Gaps above Material. The Clearance (Z1) is your safe Z height and you can set it to clear the clamp ends. If you clamps stick up above your material .3 you can set this to .35 or .40 to clear the clamps whenever the Z raises and rapid moves to a new location. If you set it too high then it can add time to your project. I have one customer that wants it set in his files to 1.00 to make sure he doesn't hit a clamp and he doesn't worry about the extra time it takes. The Plunge (Z2) is how far above the material the rapid move will stop and bit plunge rate takes over. I usually set this to 0.10 to 0.125 just so the plunge has time to slow down before it buries the bit into the material. Right below that is Home / Start position. If you don't use an offset then X and Y should be 0.00. The Z Gap Above Material is where you want the toolpath to start and end. You can set this high so you can addand remove your dust boot and change bits or lower if you want to. Just remember to keep it low enough that the safe Z height will not run the Z axis into the top limit and cause you to loose you Z height reading, this is a common problem with small desk top machines with little Z height. Remember you are adding 3/4" spoil board so you are loosing that in the overall Z height of the machine. I usually set mine for 0.75 and jog up to put the boot on and jog back below the 0.75 before I hit run. The toolpath will start, go to the start height then continue with the code. Mike you will find that you start out your day looking to see what you can setup and run while you do other things. When that finishes you set up something else to run while you keep working on other projects or cleanup what was just cut. It does help if you have run the file before and know that it runs good so you don't have to worry as much about watching what it is doing while you do other things. I you really don't trust a file it is best to make sure it works properly before you go work on something else because you won't be paying attention to what you are doing and that's not a good thing when power tools are concerned. If in question watch the machine.
  14. Too much detail

    Okay John I slept since we emailed back and forth about this project and now I have a solution to save the original tree carving so you won't have to do the Open Book ... yes John it is a little late for that now isn't it. See what happens when you ask me questions when I haven't had any sleep. The Open Book idea turned out great and I like the font better than I did the other night, it actually goes well with this design because it looks more like it was hand written where a fancy font would have been too much. Nice save! Turned out great and I'm sure it will be well received.
  15. More practice using up scraps

    Turned out nice Mike. Simple projects like this give you experience with using the software and also help use up the scraps in the pile. I did notice that this one does not include a hole to measure a portion for a hollow legged teenage boy, but of course it would have to be much wider and longer for that. They also make nice small gifts to say "I was thinking about you, hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed making it for you".
  16. Putting the CNC to work!

    Like those jacks, I could have used those a time or two. Great looking cabinets Mike!
  17. The companies making CNC s now are getting more competitive and the quality of some of the machines have gotten quite a bit better than what was available just a couple of years ago. I'm liking what I am seeing right now with that trend and hopefully all the companies will listen to their customers and build quality affordable machines. You are right about custom configurations to be able to get as much out of these smaller CNC machines. I think the only limits most hobby machine owners face is how far will there imagination take them.
  18. If the gantry arm are straight up and down on the Shark it is an HD1, if they are slanted to the back then it is a HD2 or later model. I bought my HD! used and I replaced that deeply carved gantry plate with the upgrade aluminum plate and replace the cheap plastic router clamp with an 1.25" think aluminum upgrade. I also added adjustable bearings because the HD1 did not have adjustable bearings and had too much slop in it. I also did a whole lot of other modifications to it and looking back now I should have been buying another CNC that was sturdier and got away for the Sharks entirely. That's where I'm at right now, still looking over different choices and options and deciding if I can really justify the cost of another CNC right now.
  19. I know what you mean about getting trash vector files and having to deal with all the extra lines, overlapping vectors and duplicate vectors not to mention the sizes of the work areas they choose to work with. I got file for a head stock guitar logo and the work area was set to 20' X 20' and they had jumped around in that area and added little details everywhere and come to find out some of those didn't even have anything to do with the project and were a quick way to test out something for another project they were working on at work that was on their mind at the time. All the important vector information could have been set up in a 4" X 4" job space and made life a whole lot easier.
  20. I can see the justification for you buying a dedicated CNC just for vertical and angled cuts and I think that the smaller footprint will give you a tighter CNC to machine the critical joinery that you plan on using it for. Dovetailed drawers and your own decoratively designed joints are just around the corner. As you also say this might help you cut a few pieces of aluminum that were out question on the larger machines. I know I have done a little aluminum on my Shark HD1 and it can be a nightmare but my Piranha is small and tight so it does a lot better job cutting aluminum parts
  21. I'm glad they made it easy to turn the smart snap off and on, I have had a couple of times that there was so much geometry that it kept trying to jump to other points and never could get it to lock on to the correct point so I turned it off and set the point using guide lines, then turned to back on. Most of the time it does save a lot of time and I'm glad they added the feature because I did at times try to get it to pick up pints to use in layout, some thing I used from my years using CAD programs. Normally when they release an upgrade I go through ALL the video tutorials from beginning to end and pick up on a few things that have been there that I haven't been using and of course all the new features. I'm busy enough right now that I was lucky enough to find the time to watch the teasers for the new things they have added and they left many unanswered questions. I do think the new tools they added with V9 will speed up layout and make life easier, we just need time to find out which ones will be our favorite ones to use. I know right now I'm loving the 2 sided carving feature and when I find time I will be converting all my old 2 sided projects over to the new layout, its probably time to revisit those toolpaths again and make a few changes to feeds and speeds anyway.
  22. I've had a little more time using V9 but still haven't had time to really check things out. I did get to try the 2 sided carving feature and love it because I do a lot of 2 sided work.
  23. Retirement plaque

    Love the choice of wood and the shape you used.
  24. Putting the CNC to work!

    GREAT JOB! Beautiful finish.
  25. Creating an acoustic guitar bridge

    Okay make a bigger guitar for the old bridge. Really like the profile and your solution to the problem. Great pictures as always. David you could add embellishments to the sides like little flowers, dragons heads or furniture flourishes, V-carved or 3D to make it one of a kind. V-carved would reduce the weight a little but the 3D would add to the weight but also the look.

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