MEBCWD

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About MEBCWD

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    Apprentice
  • Birthday April 15

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  • First Name
    Michael
  • My Location
    Nevada, Texas
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Advanced
  • Favorite Quote
    If you tell the truth, you don't have to remember anything. - Samuel Clemens

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  1. John the poplar you have with all the green grain and mineral staining is junk and you should have bought good white even grained poplar for your vanity project and left that old junk stuff in the rack for people like me that look for junk word to build nice furniture with.
  2. Sorry. Tooth is an old painters term meaning to get rid of any slick spots and make sure the entire surface has a slight roughness so the paint has a place to bite into.
  3. Exterior Kilz would work well. If you prep with shellac first that would help seal any areas that might leach. Make sure you sand well to knock down any raised grain and make sure to add tooth to make sure the primer will bond well. Also any glue you use should be water proof like Titebond 3
  4. John I hate to hear that you want to paint those poplar boards that have all the mineral staining and dark green grain. I would go buy some cleaner grained boards and prime then well in advance of painting. Then I would take the other boards and make a nice piece of furniture or a chest out of them. Stained with a quality walnut stain most people will not be able to tell the difference between it and walnut. The problem with some of the dark streaks is the mineral content that could possibly leach from that portion of the grain. The green coloration is the natural color of the poplar and I have never had a problem with that part of the poplar. I suggest using exterior primer on the vanity because of the moist environment it will be in so there won't be problems later. Make sure you prepare the wood before you prime and make sure the primer is completely dry before painting.
  5. Version 1.0.0

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    This is a PDF file I created from a presentation I did at a meeting of our local CNC users group at one of the local Rockler stores. It shows how you can create or draw vectors just using keyed in entries into the Drawing Tools Forms
  6. I like the new 2 sided carving feature too. I open a box design that was 2 sided and moved vectors to the bottom. If you are on the top view and move text to the bottom then the text is flipped so you need to flop it over for use
  7. John I've also seen people build a room around their machine with Plexiglas windows and overhead air cleaner just to filter the air in that small room. This lets you see what is going on, cuts down on the noise level and helps contain the dust and chips generated.
  8. This is a PDF of a presentation I gave at a local Rockler CNC user group meeting showing how you can draw or create vectors in Vectric VCave V8.5 and Aspire v8.5. This probably works in V9.0 but I have not had a chance to check it out. They say they added the ability to use direct entry for drawing but you could do it before so I'm not sure what enhancements they made to justify the claim. Create Vectors Using Drawing Tool Forms.pdf
  9. There is also a new folder called Vector Art 3D Bonus Pack that contains 20 models in 3 formats for a total of 60 models. If any of you have the Vector Art 3d Sample Pack 16/48 of the models are the same. There is a Rose in the Bonus pack that is also included in the Plants folder and the Bear waving sign is now a design and carve file worth $25 just for the type A file. Of course you did fine the othe new ones by checking dates like I did so there are a few. All depends if you will use them or not. I have used the 2 sided feather and like it, I do a lot of two sided projects so this is a plus to me. I am having a hard time finding time to check out other enhancements but the smart cursor will probably be nice and geometric snap will be nice but if you have too much geometry then it might be a headache, at least they made it where you can turn it off if you don't need or want it.
  10. John about your only limit with a CNC is your imagination. If you don't have an imagination then it somewhat limits projects you can do but if you have an imagination the possibilities are endless.
  11. Looks like you got cutting acrylic down good, nice clean cuts.
  12. Kelly as you say This is so true and I think some people talk themselves into believing it is way past their abilities before they even try using the free trial of the software. It is true that some of the people will not be able to master design software but would be able to run a CNC machine if it was in their shop. They might find someone that will do the design portion of the projects for them for a small fee so they can just work in the shop and make things to sell.
  13. I have seen several CNC Sharks for sale that were never put together. The people got them and had no one to help them over the learning hump. I talked to one guy that said he did not realize that it was a kit and he had to build it himself. The Sharks shipped with the base in one package and the gantry in a separate box. All you had to do was mount the gantry and this to him was building one from a kit and he had no idea how to do it. Sat in a corner and never touched for 3 years, then his wife told him to get rid of it. I have seen several others that were put together but never actually cut anything and some that were used less than 8 hours, they gave up on trying to use them.
  14. Nice carving Dave.
  15. The software to do what you are talking about would probably cost several times the coast of just one of the best hobby CNC machines that the backyard woodworker can afford and there may be some large commercial machines already running something similar. There are too many factors involved in the mix of hobby machines to make it feasible for hobby use. For now the best way I have found to set feed and plunge rates for the bits in your data base is hold your spindle speed, calculate what the feed should be for a bit, then test and adjust that feed rate until you get the best cut/speed for that bit. Enter those values in the data base so when you pick that bit you know it will cut correctly in most materials you use. If you do a job with softer or harder materials then you can edit the feed for that job. So trial and error for the hobby user is the best way to go in my opinion.

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