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tomp

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About tomp

  • Rank
    Gopher

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  • First Name
    Tom
  • My Location
    Maryland
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    You got me, you figure it out!
  1. I had a brother-in-law (my wife's little sister has since divorced him) who I helped fix his fixer-upper, spent a lot of time down there working on his house. As an example, I was going to night school at that time to get my engineering degree and would do stupid stuff like stop down after the last class, which let out at 10:10 PM, and put skim coats on the drywall in his living room. Anyway, he wore out his welcome after a while - another long story - but still tried to get me to do stuff for him. He called me at work one day - his conversations always started with, "How much would it cost to....................?" He had bought some used French doors and wanted to install them in the doorway between the foyer and living room but they were too short and so needed to be extended, or maybe a transom built over the top. Did I mention I was at work, and not having a particularly good day? I quoted the "non-family" price - he'd paid for nothing up to this point so probably thought that was the family price - and there was silence on the phone for a good few seconds. Then he told me he'd get back to me after he talked it over with his wife - the subject never came up again.
  2. Plywood Drawer Joint

    Sounds more like he's cutting a rabbet on the front that's the depth of the side thickness and all but 1/8" of the front thickness - the side butts into the bottom of the rabbet and the nails go through the sides and into the front, parallel to the face of the front - any forces then are applied perpendicular to the axis of the nails. Just made a pull-out shelf for a bathroom utility cabinet, didn't want to used pocket screws as they would show so cut a shallow rabbet on the sides, glued and clamped and then drilled dowels across the joints. I also rabbeted the edges of the 1/2" plywood bottom to sit into 1/4" grooves in the sides and back/front. This is for my wife to store the shampoo, body wash, powder, etc. that she buys in bulk on sale so she's going to have a little weight there. Here's the shelf dry clamped so I can measure across the grooves and cut the bottom to the correct size. The drawer assembled and clamped, waiting for the glue to dry. After the finish has been applied, the dowel ends add a little decorative touch - although you can't see them when it's closed.
  3. Router Bit Storage Cabinet

    http://www.rockler.com/dust-bucket-dust-collection-for-router-tables The Dust Bucket is a Rockler accessory that can be added to a router table; it has flanges at the top so it can be screwed to the underside of the top. It comes with a 4" outlet stub and an adjustable air inlet. I have a P-C router under there and that works fine, but I know that some use the big Triton in there which is a little more crowded. I think I'm OK for router bit storage, better be as my wife's bathroom storage is not an option. If necessary, I can make some small bins to go on the top alongside the Dust Bucket.
  4. Router Bit Storage Cabinet

    Well, got the cabinet pretty well done - finish is on and installed under the router table After finish, putting the handles and slides back on. Added rails to the bottom drawer to take sliding trays which I still need to make. Tucked in under the Rockler router table. Looks like there's room for a little more storage to the side of the dust box. You can't make it out too well, but there's a pegboard panel on the left where I store the collet wrenches, hex keys, wrench to raise/lower the lift, etc. Still need to work on rounding up all the bits laying around and get them organized. Some of the odds & ends that will go in the bottom drawer. I'll hold off until I get the trays built before rounding everything up and trying to figure out how to put in dividers to keep everything organized. Meanwhile, back to the storage cabinet for the bathroom - going to be a little different as it's 30" wide and 72" tall. I did fit in putting the finish on the roll-out shelf and the feet while I was doing the pieces for this one. The feet for the bathroom cabinet. Made some plywood rings a while back and finally found a use for the centers - three of them stacked and glued are prefect for holding the feet while they're drying, the dowel bolt screws into the center hole. The pull-out shelf for the bathroom cabinet. Even though the outside of the cabinet is going to be dark (se the feet above), I'm going to leave the inside natural with just poly finish as I think the dark inside is a little too much.
  5. Saw Hook for my Pull Saw

    That's a very good explanation, and I think that's about the way I do it - although a video would be good. Speaking of videos, I recently found the ones by Paul Sellers (see earlier post where he's making a basic miter box) and am in awe of his skills. He starts by cutting a line across the part and then chisels a wedge out to give himself a little channel to guide the saw at the start of the cut - definitely going to have to try that. I started out with hand tools as a teenager (all I could afford) but then graduated as quickly as I could to power tools. Now wishing that I had stayed with hand tools a little longer and developed some of these skills. However I find myself nowadays reaching for hand tools on these little jobs, and finding out that it's sometimes quicker than setting up the power tools - and certainly more relaxing.
  6. Saw Hook for my Pull Saw

    But I like my pull saw(s)................ Really don't have room for a scroll saw. I have one of the old Dremel ones, bought years ago when I was making model airplanes. Stuck on top of a cabinet, last time I used it was to cut a Plexiglas hexagon when I was making some wind chines for my wife.
  7. Saw Hook for my Pull Saw

    Well here you go, this should take care of it. Version 3.1 sounds as if it's getting complicated - at some point it will be easier to throw the Incra up on the saw and use that. I'm going to look into the miter box though. I looked at the one that Woodsmith had on their TV program, specifically for a pull saw, but that's a little more elaborate than I wanted to get. Paul Sellers has a nice video showing how to make a very basic wooden miter box, thinking something more on these lines.
  8. Saw Hook for my Pull Saw

    As you can see, it works just as well for dowels. The photo also has a better view of the stop block clamped in place to give consistent lengths.
  9. Saw Hook for my Pull Saw

    Hmm, looks like version 3 may be on the drawing board. Tear-out on the bottom hasn't been a problem so far - the saw has pretty fine teeth (part of the reason for picking that particular one) and I'm not trying for speed. It almost sounds as the new version is going to look more like a mini miter box - actually on my "to-Do" list as I have to replace the glass molding on the back door - and make the size so it will let me cut about 7/8" which should cover most small molding and my edge banding. Thanks for the suggestion.
  10. Saw Hook for my Pull Saw

    I've always struggled with cutting small parts to length, even when I had my radial arm saw, as it always seemed like overkill. I've been using a couple of Japanese pull saws for a while, really like them, and decided to make a bench hook for cutting small pieces. All parts are from the scrap bin - offcuts of luan plywood, a piece of cherry for the clamp block and a piece of thicker edge banding for the fence. First photo is the original one that I built - worked OK, but it occurred to me afterwards that the fence would be better behind the sawing direction. The original unit in use, cutting the MDF strips for the grid in my bit storage cabinet - stop clamped at left to give consistent length. The new (improved) version with the fence at the front so that the saw pulls the material into the fence. Another change was to have the fence overhang the clearance groove so that it could be used to guide the saw and help with square cuts. I used the end of the fence in the original version for this, but I think having the fence at the rear is going to make this easier too. Another view showing the clamping block on the bottom so that it can be clamped in the vise - so, not really a saw hook but............. Having the ability to clamp a stop block on the end turned out to be very handy, so I made this one a little longer to give me a little more room. Haven't used the new one yet, but think it's going to work a little better with the pull saws because of the front fence location. They're the perfect size for cutting small strips, dowels, etc. to length, can see them getting a lot of use cutting my edge banding to length.
  11. Router Bit Storage Cabinet

    Thanks, trying to get some poly on it now so I can slide it into place and move on. Nope, figure I need to remember to close the drawer while I'm working (have a hard time with the drawers under the drill press, always cleaning chips from them) - although I don't get much loose dust from the router
  12. I agree that the guide is nice and stiff, but never had any luck with the cam clamp holding. Took it off and junked it, now use the clamps that fit underneath the guide - nice positive clamp.
  13. Router Bit Storage Cabinet

    @Grandpadave52 Thanks. I pretty much always trim my plywood drawer fronts and doors (and sometimes the front of the cabinet too), keeps the edges from getting dinged up, and me from getting splinters in my hands. I usually run some strips when I'm ripping boards down, get to the last piece out of the board and cut as much banding as I can until I'm pretty close to the width of the finished part - that way I have banding sitting there and don't have to stop and make some while I'm working on a project. For shop cabinets and so forth, I've been making it a heavy 1/8", glue it/trim it and just break the sharp corners with sandpaper. For something fancier, I'll make it closer to 1/4" thick so I can cut a nice radius on the corners. Spent a lot of time agonizing over 6 Sigma back in the day.................. And I did find the article where the author showed the knobs/dowels used for handles. I made my blocks to hold 6 bits as I felt I got more efficient use of the space - and to use up the piece of 3-1/2" wide MDF trim I had lying around. I went with the grid rather than having the blocks touching as I felt it would be easier to get them in and out with some clearance, and the grid would keep them from moving around. Router Bit Storage.pdf
  14. Router Bit Storage Cabinet

    Maybe they use different vendors? I've used quite a few sheets and never really noticed any significant voids, although some of the center plies have an unusual grain pattern. I like working with it better - for a cheap, shop plywood, better than the stuff they sell as 3/4" birch at Lowes or HD. At least the outer ply doesn't chip or splinter if you look at it sideways. I've both painted and put poly on it and it seems to finish up pretty well, just doesn't have much of a grain pattern. I've made shop cabinets out of the 3/4" (18 mm) luan plywood that we used as substrate for countertops and some of that had quite attractive grain when a finish was put on it.
  15. Router Bit Storage Cabinet

    Thanks. I bought them from Highland Woodworking, although other vendors carry them. Originally bought the tray too but returned it because it was too high and ate up height in the drawer, plus I wanted space to put labels to identify the bits if needed - I have some undersize 1/4" and 3/4" bits that I use for grooving to suit different (undersize) thicknesses of plywood. Using the bushings let me lay out the hole spacing the way I wanted, plus using the individual blocks seemed to be a little more user friendly. https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/cmtrouterbitorganizer.aspx

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