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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

tomp

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    Stick486

About tomp

  • Rank
    Gopher

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Tom
  • My Location
    Maryland
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    You got me, you figure it out!
  1. Food/grub.eats/feed...

    Somewhere in Texas?
  2. Coming Up For Air (woodworking)

    That really looks like a braided rug. Here's a quick video showing the step in making one where the "braids" are laced together. I have a patchwork quilt that my mother made for my wife and I many years ago and it was starting to come apart at some of the seams so I found local quilting club and paid one of the members a very reasonable fee to resew the seams - it might be an idea to find someone that makes these rugs and see if you can have it repaired so that it will hold up for another 50 years.
  3. corner cabinet layout

    I think the OP's sketch is correct - the angle between the two "backs" is 90° to match the corner of the room, and the "sides" are shown as 90° to the wall, so the corners of the cabinet are all 90°. You don't get to a 45° until you get to the face frame joint - it was easier for me to make all the (plywood) case pieces with 90° edges and cut a 45° only on the outside, back corner of the stile. Easy to make the top/bottom panels and the shelves as they're just a square of the appropriate dimension with a 45° clip on the outside corner - I carefully laid out the first one and then used it as a template to make the others.
  4. corner cabinet layout

    I've done a couple over the years, the last two were made like the sketch below. I did one recently to fill in a corner of the shop (see photos), took a few short cuts with it, but the general construction is the same. I made the shelves fixed, so was able to eliminate the rear "sides", fixed the shelves to the ends and the strip in the back. I cut the edge of the face frame stiles at 45°, clamped them in place and measured for the top and bottom rails. After the face frame was glued in place, I planed the projecting "point" flush with the sides. Other than the 45° bevel on the back of the stiles (and the edges of the back filler strip), all of the cabinet joints are 90°. Don't know if it's "Fine Woodworking" but it makes a nice sturdy cabinet and easy to make - and I like that the front edges are solid wood which makes the corner less fragile and prone to damage. Corner Cabinet section.pdf
  5. New product

    Many years ago, returning from a surf fishing trip to NC, I pulled up in the alley behind the house so I could open the gate and back the truck into the driveway. Force of habit - pushed down the "Lock" button and slammed the door shut. With the engine running, and the spare key in the glovebox in case I lost the original out on the beach. I don't remember how he did it - involved climbing on top of the cap after I removed the rods from the roof rack - but my buddy got the door open by going through the sliding window in the back of the cab somehow. Not sure that the "spare key in a magnetic holder under the lip of the bed" (although that is a good idea) would have worked because the cap was probably locked too. Good thing my buddy showed up, I was looking for one of the local "villains" to see if they had a Slim Jim handy.
  6. sheet rocking tool

    I installed paneling in the basement room at the last house - real paneling too, no chipboard or Masonite - and was worried about the flexing and lack of support so installed 3/8" drywall underneath. I taped the joints only enough to fill the seam groove and hit the nail holes one time and then glued up the paneling. Made a nice solid installation. I've used 1/4" drywall as a cover for a damaged ceiling; the bathroom in this house had formica glued to the ceiling when we bought it, not a very good job either so I figured that the quickest/easiest fix was to just glue/nail the drywall over it. Not a big bathroom - 5-1/2' x 12' - as I recall I troweled on adhesive with a notched trowel and used drywall screws into the trusses to hold it while it dried. 27 years ago and it's still hanging.................. I've done a couple of kitchens where we glued formica to the ceiling - pretty common at the time to glue it to the walls between the cabinets - I still have the remnants of the t-shirt I wore that day out in the shop using it as a rag. Contact cement does NOT wash out of clothing.
  7. Transfer Switch

    I have the EmerGen Switch (paperwork attached) which specifically states that the rocker switches prevent "backfeeding" the utility. There is a minor design flaw with the unit though - the rocker switches are vulnerable to being switched by someone brushing up against them. I found this out after my microwave oven (one of the circuits my wife decided was a "must have") suddenly stopped working. The telephone company had been in working on the phone/cable and the technician must have leaned up against the box and moved that switch to the "OFF" (center) position. The electrician (a friend/co-worker) had to fight to keep the grin off his face when he was over trouble-shooting the problem and had to tell me what the problem was. Fixed now with a piece of aluminum flat bent and screwed to cover the switches. Transfer Switch .pdf
  8. sheet rocking tool

    If the paneling is tight and undamaged, have you considered wall liner? This can be applied over paneling, thick enough not to telegraph the grooves and paintable. I thought that I remembered Sherwin Williams coming out with a version some years ago; it had a texture like felt and was impregnated with something like Plaster of Paris. It had to be wetted when being hung, but dried rigid and relatively hard and then could be primed and painted. I looked on their web site, couldn't find it but there are a lot of hits if you search for "wall liner". It's relatively thin and so would not need any reframing around doors and windows.
  9. Using reclaimed flooring

    I may be missing something, but why not nail down the flooring - after checking for any face nails - and then sand the finished floor with a regular floor drum sander?
  10. Chapel Remodel

    My wife and I were in HD the other day and she found a display with similar product already sized to wrap around a basement pipe column. I've used a similar product for wainscoting in the past when remodeling a Chinese restaurant - the backing was some type of rubbery plastic, and we put it up with contact cement rolled on both surfaces. We had stained and spray-lacquered the panels before installation, and capped it with a rail with a rabbet on the bottom back edge to hide the ends of the panels.
  11. Saturday's Woodworking Quiz - November 25, 2016

    I have a wooden block with a V-groove in the top that clamps to the miter saw table. Put a kerf in the block, mark the thickness to the right of the kerf and feed the dowel from the left (I'm right-handed). Use the dowel to push the disc to the right and then pull back to the marked line.
  12. This is getting to be....

    My neighbor saw the one that had been destroying his garden strolling along one side of his shed - he grabbed a shovel and met him as he came around the corner. The shovel was put to another use shortly thereafter...............
  13. Knock down spray booth

    Same here as far as the shower curtains if the area is small, otherwise cheaper to buy a roll of heavy plastic sheeting and add the grommets. The "open" area in my shop is in front to the garage door so I hang the plastic from the garage door tracks and bend hooks from heavy wire.
  14. Attaching Face Frame to Cabinet

    And a spline works too.
  15. shop time...

    I seem to recall a post where you stated that you didn't do finishing..................

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